Balsamic Vinaigrette and Filet Mignon Alla Modena Recipes, Spotlight on Balsamic Vinegar, Enjoying Aceto Balsamico and The Best-Dressed Salad

Vinegar Essentials, Part III

My travels over the past 20 years introduced me to exquisite vinegars that were not available here, and I’d always load my suitcases with enough bottles to last until my next trip. The judicious addition of a specific type of vinegar can raise the taste profile of a dish in a unique way, adding complex and deep flavors—and that’s why my most recent culinary quest was to bring artisanal vinegars to you and share my vinegar expertise to elevate your cooking as these vinegars have elevated mine. The quintessential vinegar is balsamic, but seeing that word on the label isn’t a guarantee about what’s inside. Here’s what you need to know before you buy, along with two of my favorite recipes.

Balsamic Vinaigrette

• Balsamic Vinaigrette

  This vinaigrette must be in your repertoire. It can also be made in a blender or food processor: Pulse all ingredients except the olive oil for a few seconds (the machine can mince the garlic for you), and then, with the machine still running, slowly add the olive oil through the opening in the lid/top until the mixture is blended. (You’ll find that a vinaigrette with honey will quickly emulsify and create a thick dressing.) For deeper flavor, add more vinegar, one teaspoon at a time.

  Ingredients

  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, such as Barili Exclusivi Condimento
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon finely ground black pepper 
  • 1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

  Directions

  Step 1

  In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the honey, balsamic vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper, and garlic.

  Step 2

  Add the oil and whisk continuously until the dressing is emulsified.

  Yields a scant 1/2 cup

Filet Mignon Alla Modena

• Filet Mignon Alla Modena

  This recipe is inspired by the beef dish served at Ristorante Cavallino in Modena, Italy.

  Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose or white whole-wheat flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon each fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 6-ounce filet mignon steaks, about 1-1/2 inches thick 
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, such as 15 Barili or Barili Exclusivi Condimento
  • 1/2 cup beef stock 

  Directions

  Step 1

  Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a pie plate. Heat a cast-iron skillet or other heavy pan large enough to hold the steaks, and then add the olive oil. Once the oil shimmers, dredge both sides of each steak in the flour mixture, shake off any excess, and add to the pan. Sauté for about 4 minutes, and then flip to cook the other side, about 4 minutes more for rare.

  Step 2

  When the steaks are done to your liking, transfer them to four dinner plates. Deglaze the pan with the balsamic, and then add the stock. Reduce the liquid to a thick sauce.

  Step 3

  Spoon equal amounts over each steak and serve.

  Yields 4 servings.

Spotlight on Balsamic Vinegar

More than Modena on the label

In Italy, the pinnacle of vinegar is aceto balsamico di Modena. Modena, which is the name of both the city and the province, is within northern Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region, known for luscious food—Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, Parma ham, and true balsamic vinegar. It’s my favorite eating region in the country. In fact, my wife, Meghan, and I first toured Modena a few years ago on our honeymoon as part of a food-centric road trip. 

True balsamic is made only from Lambrusco and Trebbiano grapes. But “balsamic” has, over the years, become an everyday term, and most people have probably never tasted real balsamic vinegar.

Just as sparkling wines can only be called Champagne if they come from the Champagne region of France, aceto balsamico di Modena can only be called that if the balsamic is completely made within the region. Preserving the tradition of balsamic vinegar and guaranteeing its quality was easier to do until about 50 years ago, when balsamic vinegar making went from being a cottage industry to mass production. These days, there are many products labeled “balsamic,” but the quality varies dramatically. The most exquisite and expensive is called aceto balsamico tradizionale DOP and is made exclusively of the must (all parts of the grapes are used). It must be aged for a minimum of 12 years. Extravecchio balsamic is aged 25 years minimum, which explains why a small bottle can cost hundreds of dollars. 

Aceto balsamico di Modena IGP is made only from must and wine vinegar and aged in wooden barrels for at least two months, but there are huge variations in its production. It can be made in an artisanal way, aged in small barrels for as long as three years (or more), or made the industrial way in tremendous barrels and with the bare minimum of must, which results in a product that lacks the quality and taste of a finely crafted vinegar.

The classification condimento all’aceto balsamico di Modena IGP, or “condiment with balsamic vinegar of Modena,” gives producers the freedom to craft a vinegar that goes beyond strict IGP or DOP requirements—that’s what I chose for my new collection. My 15 Barili Condimento “All’Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP” blends together two prized vinegars: aceto balsamico di Modena IGP Goccia Oro (“Golden Drop”) and a high-quality condimento. It’s named after the number of barrels used in its aging process—the more barrels, the higher the density and the greater its character. I liken it to when vintners create a cuvée, taking wines from various barrels to create a finished product that is greater than the sum of the parts. 

Food Pairings

Enjoying aceto balsamico

Because the finest balsamic vinegar is rich and sweet, just a few drops will enhance just about every food, from a risotto to a charcuterie plate to berries and ice cream. I like to pair it with fruitier extra virgin olive oils and mature and fresh cheeses, from Parmigiano Reggiano to mozzarella; cured meats like prosciutto, speck, and salami; tomatoes with a sprinkling of Maldon salt; a composed salad of goat cheese, pine nuts, and honey, or of feta, watermelon, and arugula; cooked vegetables and fish, beef, lamb, and egg dishes; and strawberries, pineapple “carpaccio,” vanilla ice cream, and flourless chocolate cake. Except for the tradizionale, which should never be used in cooking, balsamic vinegar can withstand some heat, but use it judiciously, adding it at the very end of a recipe, such as a risotto, and then top each serving with a few more drops.

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

The best-dressed salad

To maximize taste when making salads, prep your greens by rinsing and drying them in a salad spinner—dressing coats them better when they’re dry, and it won’t be diluted by water clinging to the leaves. Rather than simply pouring vinaigrette over your salad, mix it in with two forks or tongs to really “dress” the greens. Also, keep in mind that vinaigrettes aren’t just for salads; drizzle them over roasted vegetables and cold meats and use them in place of mayonnaise as a sandwich spread. Vinaigrette will keep for up to a week in the fridge—just shake well or whisk as needed before using it.

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Pork Chops with Apple Balsamic Vinegar and Capers and Shrub Coolers Recipes, Spotlight on Apple Balsamic Vinegar, and Pairing Vinegar with Your Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils

Vinegar Essentials, Part II

The next vinegar I want to introduce you to is one you may never have heard of, much less experienced, but the bouquet and taste are exquisite: apple balsamic vinegar. Fruity yet with a richness reminiscent of a traditional balsamic, this vinegar is so versatile that it can star in an aperitif syrup called a shrub as well as in a main course. And I’ll also show you how to pair various vinegars with Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club offerings so you can to all the benefits of olive oil in even more delicious ways.

Pork Chops with Apple Balsamic and Capers

• Pork Chops with Tomatoes and Capers

  This Mediterranean-style dish is cooked on the stovetop in a single pan and creates a rich, tomato sauce. 

  Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup white whole-wheat or all-purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon each coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 pork chops, each about 1/2-inch thick
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/3 cup balsamic vinegar
  • 1/3 cup chicken stock, homemade or low-sodium store-bought
  • 1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes with its juice
  • 4 tablespoons capers

  Directions

  Step 1

  Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a pie plate. Heat a frying pan large enough to hold the chops (if necessary, you can cook the chops in batches). Once the pan is hot, add the olive oil and quickly coat both sides of each chop in the flour mixture, shake off any excess, and add to the pan. Sauté 5 minutes on each side or until browned. 

  Step 2

  Transfer the chops to a dish. Add the garlic to the pan and sauté slightly, then deglaze the pan with the vinegar. Add the tomatoes along with their juice, the broth, and the capers, and briefly bring to a boil.

  Step 3

  Add back the chops, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook until the chops are cooked through and register 145°F on an instant-read thermometer, about 10 minutes more. 

  Yields 6 servings.

Shrub

• Shrub

  Shrub is an old-fashioned sugar and vinegar syrup that’s having a renaissance. Enjoy it as a fabulous twist for Bellinis and mimosas. For a nonalcoholic alternative to lemonade and other coolers, pour two tablespoons over crushed ice in a tall glass and fill with seltzer. Add a jigger of gin to turn it into a variation of the classic Tom Collins.

  Ingredients

  For the shrub:

  • 8 ounces fresh fruit, such as blackberries or peach chunks
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 3/4 cup Gölles Apple Balsamic Vinegar

  For each aperitif:

  • 4–5 ounces sparkling wine, such as prosecco or champagne 
  • Berries or lime slice for garnish

  Directions

  Step 1

  To make the shrub, mash the fruit into the sugar in a glass measuring cup or bowl, cover, and put in the fridge overnight. The next day, mix in the vinegar and chill again for a few hours. Strain the mixture into a clean jar or small pitcher, pressing on the fruit to extract as much juice as possible. Taste and add more vinegar for tartness or more sugar for sweetness. Because the vinegar acts as a preservative, the shrub should last for weeks in the fridge.

  Step 2

  To make each aperitif, pour two tablespoons of the shrub into a champagne glass and top it off with sparkling wine. Garnish with berries or a lime slice. 

  Yields enough shrub for 4 to 6 drinks depending on the fruit.

Spotlight on Apple Balsamic Vinegar

A delicious modern-day creation

Much newer than most other vinegars, apple balsamic was invented just 27 years ago by Alois Gölles Jr. in Riegersburg, Austria. I’ve been a fan since I first tasted it in 2012, and it’s not hyperbole to say that Alois created a vinegar the likes of which the world had never seen.

Back in the late 1950s, his father, Alois Gölles Sr., switched from raising animals to being one of the first farmers in the area to cultivate apple trees and then black currants. Alois Jr., who runs the business today, literally grew up in the orchards. He initially created fruit wines, juices, and spirits, but had a revelation after a trip to Italy in the early ’80s, during which a cellar master told him about balsamic vinegar. “I then went to Modena, Italy, much like a tourist, to see the acetaias and learn about the process. I thought about doing something similar in Austria, but that was not possible because I wasn’t a wine grower, but an orchardist,” Alois said. “Since we were already working with apples and other fruits on wine and schnapps, it occurred to me to try a balsamic vinegar from apples.” 

He also had the foresight to use heirloom apples that had almost been forgotten. Varieties such as Maschansker, Ilzer Weinler, Rosenapfel, and Bohnapfel are sourced from just 30 or 40 small orchards in the region, some with just 10 to 20 apple trees, all chosen for their special characteristics. He also makes it a point to get every apple from each tree for a perfectly well-rounded taste. 

The fruit is first sorted and washed, then crushed and pressed into juice. Next, the juice is cooked in copper vessels for 24 hours to reduce it to a quarter of its original volume, which intensifies the flavors. The two-step fermentation process happens in big stainless-steel vats, after which the vinegar is moved into small oak barrels and aged for at least eight years, creating exceptional sweetness, a mild tartness, and a wonderfully strong aroma. I just love this unique Austrian artisanal vinegar!

Food Pairings

Enjoying apple balsamic vinegar

This vinegar gives a delicious twist to classic salads like caprese with its mozzarella, tomato, and basil; spinach, blue cheese, and walnut; and fruit-based salads. Pair it with pork dishes, grilled fish, carpaccio, goat cheese, pâtés, and terrines. Just a few drops brighten savory dishes, especially oven-roasted root vegetables, as well as sweet panna cotta-type puddings and vanilla ice cream. Use it for deglazing and making a quick reduction—add some butter and you have an amazing sauce for steak. 

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

Pairing vinegar varieties with your fresh-pressed olive oils 

While I don’t believe in any hard-and-fast rules, I do like using milder vinegars with milder oils so that one doesn’t overwhelm the other. If you’re using a fruitier mild olive oil from the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, pair it with apple balsamic. If you’re using a bold selection, go with a bold vinegar like red wine vinegar. Think about the foods on the plate, too. If you’re making a salad with bitter greens, add sweetness with a balsamic or sherry vinegar. If you’re making a chopped salad with provolone and salami, use red wine vinegar to balance the richness of the meat and cheese. I also like to combine vinegars for a vinaigrette with great complexity—use half balsamic for sweetness and half red wine vinegar for tartness along with your extra virgin olive oil. 

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