Presenting a Trio of Superlative Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils from Chile’s Most Esteemed Award-Winning Artisanal Producer

• These three gorgeous Club exclusives, available nowhere else, have been rushed to the US by jet at their peak of flavor and healthful polyphenols.
• Each tantalizing EVOO features uniquely Chilean expressions of beloved Mediterranean varietals.
• Certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil, these spectacular beauties will enhance every dish on your table.

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In your hands are the freshest and most vibrant extra virgin olive oils on the planet. Many new Club members are surprised that amazing EVOO can be produced in the South American country of Chile, but the reason is simple: This long, narrow, coastal nation is the mirror image of the Mediterranean region in terms of climate and geography, allowing many traditional European varietals, such as Picual, Coratina, and Leccino, to thrive. So, when spring comes to the Northern Hemisphere, that’s my cue to jet south, where it’s autumn and harvest time, to secure the finest oils for the Club.

When I first visited Chile, in 2005, European olive producers were famously concerned about the “Chilean threat,” as they dubbed the ambitious newcomer’s ultra-premium olive oil scene, which launched in the early 2000s. The Europeans had good reason to be anxious. I was struck by the fresh approach of Chilean producers and the impressive quality they’d attained in a short period of time. Determined to overcome the slings and arrows of Mother Nature, these ultra-premium upstarts used innovative planting techniques, advanced irrigation technology, and state-of-the-art milling equipment in their mission to create excellent EVOO.

However, a lot has shifted since then, mostly in the last decade. Some promising Chilean producers opted to go the mass-market route, waiting to harvest until long past my magic window for flavor and maximum health benefits. Harvesting later enables the millers to extract more oil, but it’s of inferior quality, lacking the green freshness Club members clamor for.

Others switched to imports, bringing in low-quality oil from neighboring countries (such as Argentina and Uruguay) and selling it as Chilean oil to supermarkets, the way some mass-market “Italian” olive oils are merely bottled in Italy, the label hiding the fact that the oil is from a hodgepodge of countries.

A Singular Commitment to Excellence

The pot (bottle?) of gold at the end of the Chilean rainbow is Agrícola Pobeña, the Alonso family’s farm in La Estrella, in the fertile O’Higgins Region. This is my eleventh year collaborating with this award-winning, passionate producer. The farm is the realization of the late Abel Alonso’s vision, inspired by olive groves from his childhood in Spain’s Basque country. From day one, the family has been devoted to creating the very finest extra virgin olive oil by carefully controlling each aspect of its production. Presciently, they bought parcels of farmland close to the coast, with numerous microclimates welcoming to a wide range of olive varietals. A world-class team assembled to oversee the development of the groves, led from the start by agronomist Juan Carlos Pérez, the soft-spoken genius in charge of the vast acreage.

The Pobeña mill pressed its first EVOO in 2014 and almost immediately drew international accolades, with more than 150 prestigious awards to date. In 2026, Agrícola Pobeña was again named one of the Top 20 Olive Farms in the World by Flos Olei, the international guide to ultra-premium EVOO.

An Outstanding Growing Season

Eager with anticipation, I couldn’t sleep at all on the flight to Santiago, as my advance scouts had reported that the olives were gorgeous. Upon landing, I traveled down the “Ruta Fruta,” a richly fertile stretch of agricultural land, to the town of Santa Cruz in the Colchagua Valley. I was joined for a kickoff tasting by my dear friend and international olive oil competition judge Denise Langevin and my favorite olive oil savant, Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, whose expertise is in demand around the world. More than two dozen early sample pressings, across a luscious range of varietals, greeted me at the tasting table. We determined unanimously that these were exquisite oils with remarkable flavor and character, hinting at the heights we could achieve as the harvest unfolded. I slept like a baby that night, knowing that the next few weeks would be full of sensational synergy in the field, at the mill, and in our collaborative blending sessions.

A Vintage Year

I am so proud to present you with the fruits of the best South American harvest in recent memory: three distinct, extremely food-friendly, and uniquely Chilean expressions of classic cultivars. Read on to learn about each of this quarter’s exclusive creations, the talented artisans and the extraordinary family behind them, and why we’re deeming this a vintage year.

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

• Producer: Denise Langevin La Estrella, Chile
• Olive Varieties: Arbequina, Frantoio, Leccino
• Flavor Profile: Mild

It was a lucky day when I first met Denise Langevin. At the time, she was the export manager of a highly regarded olive oil producer in Chile’s Maule Region. In the decade that’s followed, Denise has become an extremely astute olive oil taster. She is spot-on when evaluating an oil and eloquent when describing its structure, character, and subtle nuances. Our collaboration (seven years now and counting) has produced consistent favorites for Club members.

This current selection is truly extraordinary, reflecting a banner growing season in Chile. In fact, Denise, My Merry Band of Tasters, and I describe this amazing oil as “vintage,” just as vintners do when Champagne grapes have a stellar year. It’s that good. Mild, yes, but delightfully complex. I know that Denise, a talented cook, will use this oil in cakes, splashed on appetizers, drizzled over cheese or ice cream, and more. (See my specific recommendations on page 5.) She is also thrilled to add to her expanding collection of Denise Langevin labels.

Denise possesses an enviable taste memory, the ability to discern distinct varietals. She is an in-demand competition judge and has traveled all over the world. (During my recent trip, Denise confessed that she had turned down an invitation to judge “Masters of Olive Oil” in glamorous Monte Carlo because she didn’t want to miss our time together and the chance to collaborate on another Club exclusive.)

Even more impressive than her eidetic taste memory is Denise’s passion for premium olive oil. For four years, Denise worked with local schoolchildren in her hometown of Codegua, about 45 minutes south of Santiago, to instill a love for the earth and its bounty. Her husband, Luis, built wooden forms so the youngsters could plant and tend their own vegetables. Once the plants matured, Denise created a kid-friendly dish featuring olive oil to teach the principles of farm to table. This modest program inspired Denise to think big! Though still in the idea stage, Denise hopes to take her initiative worldwide, perhaps writing a children’s book that traces olive oil’s incredible story throughout the millennia. Olive oil couldn’t have a better champion.

One of the highlights of the trip for me and my Merry Band of Tasters was a visit to Denise’s ancestral farm, with a farmhouse built almost 200 years ago. Constructed of adobe, the house survived the earthquake of 2010 (8.8 on the Richter scale). Its walls are nearly three feet thick. But for me, the main attraction was the outdoor clay oven and the hot empanadas it produced.

The oil this quarter is a unique and masterful blend of a Spanish cultivar, Arbequina, with two very complementary Italian cultivars—Frantoio and Leccino. Their union is very special—deliciously fruit forward—and will delight you and your guests during the warm-weather months when fresh vegetables are at their peak. I’d love to hear how you use this wonderful fresh-pressed olive oil.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

A deliciously sophisticated mild oil, this exquisite expression of Chilean-grown Arbequina is enhanced with touches of Frantoio and Leccino. Aromas of fresh-cut grass, green banana, apple, Belgian endive, lettuce, celery, sweet almond, basil, and wild mint. On the palate, we noted a beautiful harmony of the nuttiness of almonds and walnuts, the sweetness of green banana, the bitterness of Belgian endive, and the lingering spiciness of celery leaves and white pepper.

This expressive oil will elevate egg dishes, classic berry bowl,* lighter vinaigrettes and homemade aioli, pasta salads, and salads with fruit; mild fish and shellfish, pork, and grilled chicken; farro bowl, rice, fresh corn dishes, artichokes, and asparagus; mild cheeses such as fresh goat and mozzarella; hummus; lime mousse, vanilla ice cream, yogurt, and drinks like your favorite smoothies.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

• Producer: El Agrónomo, La Estrella, Chile
• Olive Varieties: Picual, Koroneiki
• Flavor Profile: Medium

Everyone involved in our Chilean quest agrees that 2026 is a vintage year for fresh-pressed olive oil. In the sense that wine aficionados wax poetic about an ’86 Mouton-Rothschild, years from now we will likely be reminiscing about the 2026 El Agrónomo Picual and the two other dazzling elixirs you’ve received. All the factors—weather, olive varietals, team members, geography, timing, and more—interacted optimally to create truly spectacular oils, peak expressions of Old World varietals grown on the other side of the globe.

The greenest thumb in the Southern Hemisphere must belong to Juan Carlos Pérez, the immensely skilled, longtime agronomist of Agrícola Pobeña. Seventeen years ago, Juan Carlos planted the Picual that bore such gorgeous fruit this season. He’s cared for those trees since they were saplings, babying them through the megadrought Chile has endured since 2010 and producing consistently excellent fruit. But this year, he marvels, those trees “have something magical going on.” In a fitting celebration of Juan Carlos’s talents, this exquisite Picual blend bears his personal label, El Agrónomo (the agronomist).

In contrast to the Chilean norm of frequent job shifts, Juan Carlos has been with Agrícola Pobeña from its beginning. He oversees everything concerning the health of the olive trees and the groves’ ecosystem, from planting to pruning, irrigation, replanting, identifying the “magic window”—that is, the ideal harvest timing to obtain peak aromas, flavors, and polyphenol content—which varies by varietal and from plot to plot. Starting his days before sunrise, he also manages the 80-plus-member harvest team at Pobeña.

To create this once-in-a-decade Picual, Juan Carlos made two strategic decisions that I believe made all the difference in the extraordinary flavor and harmony of this oil. First, he held back on irrigating until a critical moment in the growing period. Looking for a metaphor, I’d liken his strategizing to an F1 driver or a track runner operating at high speed, keeping pace, watching intently, then knowing precisely when to “lower the hammer”: not too early and just in time to bring home the gold. This meticulous management of the hydration allowed the olives’ aromas and flavors to develop fully and optimized the amount of pulp in the fruit. (A ratio of too much pit to pulp—which happens in dry climates—can result in “woody” and overly astringent flavors.)

Second, Juan Carlos started the Picual harvest even earlier than usual, striving for the super-green, vibrant, herbaceous oil I prefer for our Club. We’ve combined three Picual pressings from three different microclimates, creating complexity and character in this gorgeous oil, which is rounded out by a zesty hint of Koroneiki.

My dear Club member, you’re in such luck—in contrast to fine wine, you are encouraged to consume a vintage fresh-pressed olive oil as soon as you get your hands on it!

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

This vibrant early-harvest Picual, splashed with Koroneiki, is the quintessence of the olive fruit. Its intoxicating aroma is redolent of tomato leaf, basil, wheatgrass, baby spinach, and microgreens, with sweet touches of kiwi and Asian pear. On the palate, we noted the lushness of dark leafy greens like Tuscan kale, brightness of green tomato and rosemary, and the bitterness of radicchio. The finish carries a pleasant tingling sensation, with the spiciness of arugula and freshly cracked black pepper.

This dynamo will enhance pork, turkey, seafood dishes such as pastel de jaiba,* Chilean sea bass with mango salsa, and fattier fish like sardines and salmon. Drizzle it on charcuterie; grilled and roasted vegetables; cold whole-grain salads; pasta or legumes; and guacamole and other avocado dishes. It will complement peach pebre, alfajores, and chocolate desserts.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

• Producer: Alonso, La Estrella, Chile
• Olive Varieties: Coratina, Frantoio, Leccino
• Flavor Profile: Bold

I always look forward to spending time with Juanjo Alonso, who oversees the family’s extraordinary olive farm, Agrícola Pobeña. He has the most engaging personality and an expansive love of life, family, and, of course, ultra-premium extra virgin olive oil. With four older brothers occupied by the family’s other businesses, Juanjo was tapped by his father, Abel, to help him start the farm. Juanjo was just a few years out of college in California and had recently returned to Chile to be with his family. He undertook the project because he understood how making olive oil connected Abel to his past.

Born and raised in Spain’s Basque country, at 17, Abel made his way to Chile, where he and his mother reconnected with Abel’s father, who had been imprisoned for years by the regime of Spanish dictator Francisco Franco before escaping and ultimately resettling in Chile. Young Abel found work in a shoe store and within months was managing the shop. The owners entrusted him to set up a factory in Buenos Aires, where he lived for three years. Back home in Chile, he struck out on his own, creating a thriving shoe business that, over the years, provided work for 600 families.

Through it all, Abel held fast to his love of his native country—later in life, he spent half of each year in Spain. As he neared retirement, he set out to realize his longtime dream of establishing an olive grove and mill that produced world-class olive oil, the elixir so deeply intertwined with Spanish culture. His son Juanjo was determined to make that happen. That’s not to say things always went smoothly.

“My father was a tough, old-school guy. I’m pretty laid back, so being his son wasn’t always easy. There was tension between us at times,” Juanjo reflects, in a rare quiet moment. It’s been a year and a half since Abel’s death, just a few months shy of his 89th birthday. “It’s amazing what happened to me since then. When I’m here, I feel him asking me to be more like him. It’s like he’s giving me the energy and the voice I need.”

I’m thrilled that Juanjo’s 19-year-old son Fermin has been working in the mill during this harvest. A top-ranked freeride snowboarder, Fermin flirted with the opportunity of training for the 2030 Winter Olympics, where the sport is likely to debut. But the grueling schedule would have taken him away from his family and his love of surfing, which he shares with his dad, so he turned it down. I’m looking forward to working with the next Alonso generation one day.

We pay homage to Abel with this very special bold olive oil. He would have been ecstatic about this magnificent farm blend I’ve created for you. It’s centered around Coratina—a cultivar so exceptional the Pobeña team calls it “The Queen”—from three different areas on the farm. The supporting players are Frantoio and Leccino, which are typically planted in side-by-side rows in the field. I love that this oil is the embodiment of three classic Italian varietals, Coratina from Puglia and Frantoio and Leccino from Tuscany. I know you’ll agree we’ve captured magic in a bottle.

We pay homage to Abel with this very special oil that bears his name and a label featuring the family’s coat of arms and a Basque-inspired font. I know he would have been ecstatic about this magnificent Picual I’ve created for you, a varietal from his native Spain, a zesty, complex character like Abel himself.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This robust Italian-style blend resonates with Southern Hemisphere energy. Its aromas reveal green and sweet almond, green apple, and dark leafy greens like arugula, with notes of artichoke, thyme, sage, and black pepper, rounded by citrus zest and warm hints of cinnamon and vanilla. On the palate are the nuttiness of hazelnuts; mint and oregano; the vegetal character of escarole and celery; and abundant polyphenols, as represented by the astringency of green tea, bitterness of cocoa nibs, spiciness of green chile, and the tingling sensation of Sichuan peppercorns.

Its bold personality is perfect for lamb-stuffed eggplant,* chacarero Chileno and other beef dishes, duck, wild game, tuna and swordfish; deconstructed palta reina and salads with dark leafy greens; bold vinaigrettes; crudités; tomato-based recipes; hearty pasta dishes; cured meats; aged cheeses; crusty breads; wild rice and legumes; and chocolate desserts.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

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Recipes

• The “Melvin” with a Twist The classic summer drink in Chile is Melón con Vino, commonly called a Melvin. It’s traditionally made by scooping out the flesh of a honeydew melon and filling the shell with a mix of white wine and confectioner’s sugar. My twist is to purée the honeydew and blend it with the wine, rather than sweetening… view recipe
• Lime Mousse Lime is the perfect counterpoint to the richness of heavy cream. This dessert comes together in minutes. Ingredients Zest and juice of 2 limes 2 cups heavy cream 1/3 cup confectioner’s sugar or sweetener of choice 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Directions Step 1 Reserve 1 teaspoon of the lime… view recipe
• Alfajores Recipes for these sandwich cookies vary from country to country: They’re thin and crisp in Chile, thick and soft in Argentina. Mine is a happy compromise that will practically melt in your mouth! Serve them plain, rolled in coconut as suggested below, dusted with confectioner’s sugar, or go all out and dip the assembled cookies… view recipe
• Lamb-Stuffed Eggplant This Mediterranean lamb dish is delicious as is, but for another dimension of flavor, serve with tzatziki sauce. Ingredients Extra virgin olive oil 2 large eggplants, about 1 pound each Coarse sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup diced yellow onion 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 pound ground lamb 2… view recipe
• Chilean Seabass with Mango Salsa Also known as Patagonian toothfish, Chilean sea bass is one of the most popular seafood options in the US. Flaky and buttery, this deep-sea fish is typically fished off the coast of southern Chile. Cod fillets are a good substitute. The mango salsa is also great with chicken or pork. Feel free to sub with… view recipe
• Pastel de Jaiba (Crab Pie) This rich dish can be served as a light main course or as an appetizer. Popular in Santiago, it’s traditionally baked in a ceramic vessel from the nearby town of Pomaire, famous for its burgundy-colored clay. Ingredients For the filling: 2 slices soft white bread (each about 3/4 inch thick), crusts removed 1 cup heavy… view recipe
• Chacarero Chileno A specialty of Chilean sandwich shops called fuentes de soda, this improbable mash-up of seasonal ingredients is unbelievably good. Eligible cuts of beef include top round, sirloin, ribeye, beef tenderloin, and hanger steak. Enjoy this “orchard sandwich” with your fresh-pressed olive oil! Ingredients Fine sea salt 4 ounces fresh green beans, frenched 1/4 cup mayonnaise… view recipe
• Deconstructed Palta Reina (Queen’s Avocado Salad) Chile’s beloved “Queen’s Avocado” gets a contem- porary reboot. All the classic flavors — creamy avocado, savory chicken salad, and a bright vinaigrette — are here, layered on a bed of greens instead of mounded onto the fruit. Tuna or shrimp salad works beautifully here, too. Ingredients For the vinaigrette: 1/4 cup extra virgin olive… view recipe
• Farro Bowl This ancient grain, often available in heirloom varieties such as emmer farro, has a nutty taste and is a great source of fiber and protein. Because it takes 45 minutes to cook, you might double the amount and save half for breakfast or lunch the next day. Notes: If you don’t want to light up… view recipe
• Peach Pebre Pebre is the delicious Chilean spin on salsa. This recipe brings in sweetness from peaches and makes a terrific summer accompaniment to grilled chicken or fish. Ingredients 1 jalapeño or aji pepper, seeded and minced 1/3 cup fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems), chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely minced 1 large ripe red… view recipe

Savor Three Vibrant Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils from the Heart of Andalucía

• Prized varietals from Spain’s leading artisanal producers, these olive oils feature distinctive aromas and exquisite flavors.
• Certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin and brimming with healthful polyphenols, this trio has been rushed to you by jet.
• Incredibly food-friendly, they will elevate spring’s bounty of vegetables and other seasonal dishes.

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In any given quarter, Mother Nature can be the olive growers’ ally or their greatest nemesis. This year, she had knives out for the Iberian Peninsula. With apologies to Professor Henry Higgins in My Fair Lady, the rain in Spain fell mainly in vain, at the wrong time of year. Autumn saw no rain at all, resulting in olives that were more pit than pulp. And when rain did come, it was in a deluge that increased the water content of many olives to 60 percent, compared to the ideal of 50 to 55 percent. Those extra percentage points are enough to negatively skew flavors and aromas.

I knew from the steady stream of weather woes that it was going to be a challenge to create three oils that would live up to Club members’ expectations—not to mention my own! Portugal wasn’t even a contender this season, due to a lackluster harvest. We set our sights solely on Spain.

Overcoming the Odds

Along with Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, my trusted international olive oil expert, I determined which of Spain’s finest producers were most likely to craft oils that would meet—and hopefully exceed—our standards. Of course, the proof is always in the tasting glass, but early samples gave us confidence. Only the most expertly prepared producers—those who knew how to leverage irrigation, refrigeration, and skill to rise above the challenges—hit our targets for aroma and taste. As Duccio eloquently puts it, “They were able to surf the wave of this season while the others were underwater. Many growers who kept waiting for the best moment to harvest found it never arrived.”

Both Francisco “Paco” Vañó of Castillo de Canena and José and Andrés Gálvez of Finca Gálvez have irrigation systems that help them to adjust the level of water in the olive trees over the course of the long growing season as needed, as well as climate-control systems in their mills to keep the olives at an ideal cold-pressing temperature of 22°C (71°F). Our third chosen producer, García Torres, has groves that are perfectly positioned near the foot of the Sierra Morena mountains, at 700 meters (2300 feet) elevation, which provides natural coolness. As we tasted impressive early samples from these master growers, we knew that we could achieve perfection.

In the Presence of Greatness

My Merry Band of Tasters and I often get the opportunity to meet the legends who were instrumental in shaping the rarefied world of ultra-premium olive oil. Most of these elder statesmen are, well, men. It was especially exciting to be introduced to Anuncia Carpio Dueñas while visiting Finca Gálvez. Trained as a biologist at Instituto de la Grasa in Seville, Anuncia has been raising the standards for EVOO in Spain since 1986. A teacher, taster, and mentor, she has spent decades advocating for sensory, or organoleptic, analysis to ensure quality. She helped develop and validate tasting panels and has judged competitions from Europe to Japan, Chile and the US.

She recounted for me that a notable shift in EVOO’s importance occurred in 1992, when, in preparation for an expo in Spain, the government led a campaign focusing on the health benefits of high-quality olive oil, drawing on research about its polyphenols. Then it was off to the ultra-premium races.

Many improvements we now take for granted were influenced by Anuncia, including one that is particularly close to my heart and palate. She noted that the aromas and flavors of Picual were greatly enhanced when it was harvested early. Following her guidance, those producers crafting high-quality Picual commence the harvest much earlier in the season, ending around the time it used to start.

Paco describes Anuncia and her colleague Brigida Jiménez Herrera as being “prophets in the desert” when he first started Castillo de Canena more than 20 years ago, helping him achieve his goal of creating premium extra virgin olive oil. Anuncia remains active, though now retired after decades at the Ministry of Agriculture in Jaén, doing tastings, trainings, and advising millers as she campaigns for olive cultivation that honors the landscape and the environment. Anuncia and I are of one mind when it comes to the highest-quality olive oils, and I’m sure you’ll agree that this trio meets that ideal. These are oils you’ll love to lavish on all your favorite foods and seasonal recipes.

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

• Producer: Arbequina, Baeza, Andalucía, Spain
• Olive Varieties: Arbequina
• Flavor Profile: Mild

I will never forget my first visit to Castillo de Canena, a Renaissance-era castle built by Moors on the ruins of a Roman settlement in the province of Jaén. The year was 2005. I was ushered into a large hall dominated by a “sofa” made of massive slabs of stone. The armrests, I noticed, had concave depressions, worn down by the arms of thousands of visitors over the centuries, who like me, awaited an audience with the castle’s occupant.

If Francisco “Paco” Vañó—occupant of said castle in 2005 and to this day—sounds lord-like, I have misrepresented him: Though a sharp dresser, Paco’s demeanor is quite humble. We had met at the previous summer’s Fancy Food Show in New York City, where he exhibited his olive oils.

Though the family’s been associated with olive oil since George Washington’s time, Paco, his sister Rosa, and their father, Luis, dedicated themselves in 2003 to producing premium extra virgin olive oil. The guide to the planet’s best olive oils, Flos Olei, recently gave Castillo de Canena a perfect score—100 points—for the sixth consecutive year. Castillo de Canena has been inducted into the publication’s exclusive Hall of Fame, one of only nine such producers worldwide.

Paco is a highly respected olive oil authority, known especially for his generosity in sharing his expertise. His oils have delighted Club members for many years. Paco’s father consumes a spoonful every morning and will be 97 in June. Just sayin’.

In addition to producing oils of the highest quality, the family has dedicated itself to sustainability, innovation, and—very important to me—consistency. For years, I have listened to Paco recount the challenges of the harvest, knowing his oils will still be amazing. This year, the olive trees blossomed lushly on the branches’ periphery but not on the inner limbs, creating a deceptive promise of an ample crop. Early predictions were off by about 30 percent, Paco said. Untimely rains bedeviled the harvest. But quality control supervisor Mariela Chova Martínez expertly managed the harvest teams, directing them to the fruit that was at its peak. The resulting Arbequina is wonderful.

Paco is particularly proud of the fact that his team shares his passion for high-quality olive oil. And of the fact that most of the key players at Castillo de Canena are women (about 90 percent). That is unusual in the world of olive oil, which is generally dominated by men. But women have played pivotal roles in the elevation of olive oil quality. Read more about one of these influential female personalities above.

Though he is modest about his accomplishments, Paco told me he is currently working on a coffee-table book featuring Spain’s many unique contributions to world gastronomy. He will write the chapter on extra virgin olive oil with special enthusiasm.

Speaking of enthusiasm, I am thrilled to share his superlative extra virgin olive oil with you. Check out my personal suggestions for its use below

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This enticing Arbequina is full of personality. On the nose, we appreciated the aromas of golden apple, green banana, and almond, along with scents of wheatgrass, green tomato, Belgian endive, and basil. On the palate, there are notes of lettuce, endive, and fava beans; the nuttiness of almonds and hazelnuts; and the bitterness of escarole. Its beautiful finish has the spiciness of white pepper balanced by the sweetness of fresh mint.

Drizzle it into smoothies, over yogurt, and on salads with fruit and nuts. Create vinaigrettes and the marinade for Andalucían Roast Chicken.* It adds depth to delicate pork and veal entrées, Escabèche with Hake and other mild fin fish, paellas, and Spring Vegetable Medley and roasted vegetables, and is perfect for sweets like ice cream, chiffon cakes, and Baked Churros with Two Sauces.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

• Producer: Finca Gálvez, Jaén, Andalucía, Spain
• Olive Varieties: Picual
• Flavor Profile: Medium

Veteran Club members know that I love, love, love Picual—when done right, which can be tricky. (Don’t get me started on “Picual Gone Wrong.”) The ideal expression of Picual that I seek for my Club entails an early harvest of the finest fruit to create an enticingly herbaceous, robust, harmonious oil, redolent of fresh garden herbs and brimming with flavor. Or, as producer José Gálvez describes it, we strive to “transmit the soul of the fruit into the bottle.”

Finca Gálvez, family-run olive groves comprising 18 distinct farms across more than 5,000 acres in the province of Jaén, started producing artisanal EVOO in 1999, as a pioneer on the Spanish ultra-premium scene. I first met brothers José and Andrés Gálvez in 2005, and we collaborated on our first Club selection in 2008. Their oils have been fêted around the globe—the walls of one office are covered entirely in awards—yet the brothers and their talented team are always seeking to improve and innovate.

This season bestowed gorgeous fruit on the groves, and José kept me and my Merry Band of Tasters apprised of its progress throughout the growing season. He’s a boots-on-the-ground producer, inspecting the olives regularly from at least two months out so he can identify the exact moment to start harvesting. That moment—what I call “the magic window”—varies from farm to farm. For instance, one farm sits 300 meters (~990 feet) above sea level, while another farm a few miles away sits at higher elevation, in a different microclimate. The variations in topography, soil composition, and sun exposure across the farms produce a broader palette of aromas and flavors in the olives.

José explains, “In the mill, we don’t ‘make’ anything”—the aim of milling is to preserve the liquid gold in its purest form. “We do everything within our control to manage the fruit.” Internationally esteemed agronomist Patricia Cano, in her fifth year with the team, oversees the health of the olive trees on all 18 farms. Irrigation provides another crucial form of control; in this arid region, managing hydration of the trees is impossible with rain alone. The harvest team also tightly controls the intricately choreographed logistics of rushing the just-picked olives to the mill, keeping the fruit cool during transit and upon entry to the mill.

Last year, the Gálvez team incorporated a new cooling machine that chills the olive paste—below the standard temperature for “cold-pressed” oil—as it moves from the crusher to the malaxer, which then separates the oil from pulp and water. José notes “a big difference” with the added cooling, which preserves the roundness, balance, and harmony that make for an exceptionally food-friendly EVOO.

Finca Gálvez sorts the EVOO from each day’s harvest not just by varietal but also by aroma and flavor profile. With this technique, batches of the same varietal, pressed on different days from different microclimates, commingle into a complex and harmonious oil.

I can’t wait for you to taste this exquisite Picual. José speaks from my own heart when he says, simply, “I make oil for the people to enjoy.”

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

This Picual leads with a symphony of green grassy notes, such as Tuscan kale, arugula, and tomato leaf, followed by the sweet aromas of fennel and pear, and a cornucopia of chopped culinary herbs, notably rosemary, oregano, and thyme, with a whiff of crushed pepper. We tasted Tuscan kale, walnuts, baby spinach, fava beans, and herbs along with the bitterness of radicchio and the spiciness of arugula and green peppercorns.

It’s wonderful on egg dishes like Huevos a la Flamenca*; tomato-based dishes like Pan con Tomate and gazpacho; salads of radicchio, endive, and other greens; crusty breads, focaccia, and pizza; and cheeses. It makes a fabulous marinade for Beef Pinchitos and other grilled meats and enhances Spanish Rice with Garlic Shrimp, other seafood dishes, and beans and lentils. Drizzle it on cheesecake, chocolate mousse, and flan.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

• Producer: García Torres, Carcabuey, Andalucía, Spain
• Olive Varieties: Hojiblanca, Picudo
• Flavor Profile: Bold

Each time I visit the town of Carcabuey, I am struck by its beauty—whitewashed houses, winding streets, and lush bougainvillea that seems to grow everywhere. It’s only fitting that a place this exquisite would be where some of the finest olive oils in the world are produced.

I’m thrilled that for the third year in a row we’ve selected an olive oil from the team at Almazaras de la Subbética, the award-winning cooperative led by Luis Torres, head oenologist, and Carlos García, chief of operations and new dad to baby Alonso. Inspired to be one of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club’s selections, they push the flavor envelope for us. “You and the Club are top of mind at all our planning meetings so we can be sure to create the best oil for you,” Luis says proudly.

Luis and Carlos credit this year’s winning blend to two amazing milling talents: mill master Francisco Ramón García Ramírez and Miguel Ángel Ortiz López, whom he has been mentoring for the past six years. Francisco Ramón has announced his retirement after an illustrious career: he was just 17 when he first started working at a small mill in town and 30 when he became Almazaras de la Subbética’s mill manager, 35 years ago. Back then, the goal was simply pressing oil for the farmers in the co-op. When the decision was made, in the late ’90s, to build a new facility focused on ultra-premium EVOO, Francisco Ramón worked closely with the engineers to design it.

In 1999, Almazaras de la Subbética won its first gold medal, in Spain’s prestigious D.O.P. Priego de Córdoba competition. In all, Francisco Ramón’s tenure has seen a total of 2,152 prizes across Spanish and international competitions, including an ongoing nine-year streak in the EVOO World Ranking, a nonprofit created to spread the word about olive oils that have been recognized at international competitions. In 2023, Francisco Ramón won Best Mill Master from the Spanish Association of Olive Municipalities. “He has been key to the cooperative’s growth—not only for producing excellent oils but also for training the new generations who join the company,” praises Luis. As Francisco Ramón passes the baton, we celebrate his achievements, just as we are excited by the possibilities that lie ahead with Miguel.

“This season, we gave Miguel more opportunities to make key decisions, and he showed us that he’s the right person to run the mill. He loves the work and loves tasting olive oil—he’s learning a lot with every day’s tasting,” Luis says. “He also works hand in hand with Carlos—we have a formidable team.”

All this star power is concentrated in the extraordinary blend you have just received: 74 percent Hojiblanco and 26 percent Picudo. While the inclusion of Picudo is not new for a Club selection, in previous blends it was just a splash, enough to create some delicious drama. “Hojiblanca is always a winning variety—it never fails, but it is rare to get a Picudo this superb,” observes Luis. It takes a combination of the right temperature, rain at the right time and, of course, skill in the mill. The two varietals have a symbiotic relationship in the field—Picudo is a pollinator of Hojiblanca blossoms—and in the bottle. It’s a remarkable synthesis that I know you’ll enjoy as much as I do.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

In this beguiling duo, the spiciness of Hojiblanco is further elevated by the dark-green intensity of Picudo. Inhale the aromas of green grass, green tomato, artichoke, celery, and microgreens; the fruitiness of green apple, kiwi, rhubarb, and green almond; and hints of crushed black peppercorns. Next, taste an explosion of green tomato, artichoke, green almond, and parsley; and the bitterness and spiciness of arugula, celery leaves, and black pepper.

Lavish this vibrant oil on an Iberian Charcuterie Board* with whole grain breads and Green Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette and other composed salads. It enhances Spanish Pork Burgers and other pork, lamb, and game dishes, as well as grilled tuna, bluefish, sardines, calamari, and octopus. Enjoy it in (and on) frittatas, marinated vegetables, and hummus, and over yogurt and ice cream parfaits.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

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Vibrant pimentón, Spain’s famous smoked paprika, is a culinary mainstay. It’s the spice that gives cured Spanish chorizo its vibrant color, and you’ll see it in a number of the following recipes, along with the country’s distinctive sherry vinegar (we’re partial to vinegars made with the famed Pedro Ximénez grape, for its hint of sweetness). These are richly flavored dishes, many drawing on spring’s vegetable bounty, and perfect for enjoying this quarter’s olive oils.

Recipes

• Pan con Tomate This Catalan twist on bruschetta is simple and delicious. Choose the ripest tomatoes you can find. If available, Sungold cherry tomatoes make for a tasty and eye-catching tapa. Ingredients 8 ounces fresh tomatoes 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar, preferably Pedro Ximénez, or more to taste 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1/2… view recipe
• Beef Pinchitos Pinchitos, skewers of highly spiced meat, are the highlight at barbecues across many areas of southern Spain. Though this recipe features beef, it’s equally good with chicken, pork, and lamb. To make pinchitos without turning on the grill, you can sear the meat in a Dutch oven and then place it on skewers to serve… view recipe
• Escabèche with Hake Escabèche is a zesty vegetable dish done in two steps: sautéing the vegetables in olive oil then marinating them in sherry vinegar. A popular way to serve it is with lightly fried anchovies. This recipe is for lovers of mild, white flaky fish. Hake is a member of the cod family found in the waters… view recipe
• Spring Vegetable Medley Hard-cooked eggs figure prominently in many Spanish dishes. With this sauté of spring vegetables, they elevate a side dish to meal status. Ingredients 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 6 thin scallions, trimmed 6 ounces asparagus spears, trimmed and cut in thirds 6 ounces shelled green peas 1 teaspoon coarse sea… view recipe
• Spanish Rice with Garlic Shrimp A vibrant, one-pot Spanish classic where saffron-spiced rice meets plump, garlicky shrimp — a weeknight dinner that feels like a dinner party. Ingredients For the rice: 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for the pot 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 red bell pepper, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 cups… view recipe
• Spanish Pork Burgers It’s hard to beat the all-American beef hamburger, but this pork burger is one you’ll want to add to your repertoire. It can be cooked on the stovetop or grilled—your choice. Serve it with crispy fries, coleslaw, baked beans, or potato salad. Ingredients For the sauce: 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons finely diced red or… view recipe
• Iberian Green Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette I was inundated with recipe requests when I took this salad to a dinner party recently. It features incredible extra virgin olive oil plus an ingredient you might not be familiar with—guindilla peppers. These small slender peppers, typically sold pickled, hail from Basque country. Find them in the international section of your supermarket or online.… view recipe
• Huevos a la Flamenca (Spanish Eggs) Traveling, even vicariously, will whet your appetite for alternative breakfast or brunch dishes enjoyed in other parts of the world. Similar to Middle Eastern shakshuka, this Spanish marriage of mostly pantry ingredients plays to a sophisticated weekend audience. If served for brunch, lunch, or dinner, complement these eggs with a dry Spanish wine and crusty… view recipe
• Baked Churros with Two Sauces Traditional churros are deep-fried. For a lighter version, I’m baking them, with a sprinkling of sanding sugar, to create crispy puffs perfect for dipping in dulce de leche, chocolate sauce, or both! There are delicious brands of premade dulce de leche available online. But a very inexpensive way to make your own is the following… view recipe
• Iberian Charcuterie Board This is one of my favorites, and it involves no cooking and minimal prep. At its center are cured meats from the unique black Iberian pigs. The star of the show is jamón Ibérico, a cured ham with wonderful flavor. I also love chorizo Ibérico, cured sausage redolent of garlic and pimentón; salchichón Ibérico, similar… view recipe

From the Heart of Il Bel Paese Three Beautiful Extra Virgin Olive Oils To Create Magical Meals with Friends and Family

• Enjoy this dazzling trio, hand-selected by your Olive Oil Hunter, with prized varietals from award-winning family farms.
• Savor vibrant flavors that reflect bountiful polyphenols, the nutrients responsible for extra virgin olive oil’s many health benefits.
• Know that they’re certified 100 percent extra virgin olive oil by an independent lab and were rushed to the US by jet for maximum freshness and flavor.

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For millennia, olives have played a part in every aspect of Italian culture, from food to religious observances to medicine. With over 500 olive varieties, the harvest is an especially magical time here. The tourist crowds are mostly gone, the weather is cooler, and the air is perfumed with the green, herbaceous aroma of olio nuovo. But the relaxed pace that a casual visitor might enjoy is a world apart from the intensity with which my Merry Band of Tasters and I move as we hunt for the ultimate extra virgin olive oils for our Club members.

“Go South, Young Man”

We had an inkling of what to expect before we landed in Rome, with advance word that it would be a difficult season for many producers in Central Italy—Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio—because of the vagaries of Mother Nature.

This was apparent at the grand tasting organized by international olive oil virtuoso Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, yet we were dazzled by the first batch of samples from other regions. We narrowed it down to our leading contenders and headed east to Abruzzo, then south to Puglia (with a fun side trip to Campania), to create the sensational trio.

A Brush with History

In Penne, a town known for its historic brick structures (and the fashion house of Brioni), we worked with Claudio Di Mercurio of Frantoio Mercurius to craft an exquisite Dritta, our medium oil. Dritta means reliable—but never staid—and it lived up to its name once again. We deliciously enhanced it with Leccino and Frantoio. I was equally thrilled when Claudio organized a dinner with Dr. Marino Giorgetti, a groundbreaking figure in the world of extra virgin olive oil.

Dr. Giorgetti’s career started in the early ’80s at the Experimental Institute for Elaiotechnics (the science and technology of olive oil production) in Città Sant’Angelo. He was soon collaborating with Dr. Mario Solinas, the pioneering agronomist who conceptualized the sensory analysis of olive oil. Earlier olive oil assessment had been based purely on chemistry. The organoleptic descriptors used today—including those in our own “Impressions” sections—did not exist. An olive oil could get a pass on paper but completely fail on taste. There weren’t even words to express taste defects that characterize inferior oils. That all changed in 1989, when the International Olive Council adopted the use of sensory analysis, based on the work of Dr. Solinas and his counterparts in five other countries, forever redefining how extra virgin olive oil would be judged.

Since then, Dr. Giorgetti has traveled the world, teaching olive oil professionals how to be panel tasters—the top judges at competitions—using sensory descriptors. For more than 20 years, he has been panel leader and technical director of the Sol d’Oro International Competition, an organization with the foresight to hold separate events for the Northern and Southern hemispheres so that neither is at a freshness disadvantage, given their opposite harvest seasons. This desire to optimize freshness is the same reason that I, each year, divide my olive oil quests between the globe’s halves.

The Adriatic Awaits

Our hunt continued in Puglia, where we worked with brothers Nicola and Mario of Fratelli Ruggiero to craft our mild oil, an amazing Favolosa with a touch of Don Carlo. These two olives are modern-era cultivars, celebrated for their divine fruitiness and spiciness—mild, yes, but brimming with amazing aromas and fabulous flavors.

Having reconnected last year with master miller Nicolangelo Marsicani (we originally met over a decade ago!), I was eager to collaborate with him on our exceptional bold selection. I call him the Picasso of olive oil because of his ingenious artistry that went into creating our vibrant and perfectly balanced Coratina.

Puglia also tempted me with its many culinary treasures, from the freshest seafood in coastal Bari to the heartier dishes in storied inland towns like Altamura and Mariotto. I’m thrilled to share some of these delights with you in the recipe section. As always, they—and your own favorite recipes—will be elevated by the delicious oils in this trio.

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

After the success of our inaugural Fratelli Ruggiero olive oil last year, I couldn’t wait to reconnect with Nicola and Mario Ruggiero, the fratelli (brothers) creating exquisite liquid gold in Puglia.

From our very first meeting, I felt that Nicola and I were kindred spirits. Just over 20 years ago, while I was starting this Club to bring unmatched fresh-pressed oils to the US, Nicola sensed a growing desire in his country for artisanal EVOO—food-friendly oils with distinctive flavor profiles to lavish on favorite dishes. That was when he decided to add Favolosa to his groves for its herbaceous personality, “with more perfume of green grass,” as he described. Another cultivar, Don Carlo, with notes of Mediterranean herbs, soon followed.

Fast forward to this year’s harvest. Don Carlo was so enchanting when we tasted it at the mill that I decided to create another exciting first for the Club: the combination of Favolosa enhanced with Don Carlo. While most beloved olive cultivars are thousands of years old, these two are making history after mere decades. Both were developed naturally in the late 1980s–early 1990s by the late Giuseppe Fontanazza, director of the Institute of Research on Olive Growing of Perugia and a legend in the field of olive culture. He saw the need for olives that would thrive in the face of growing environmental challenges such as drought and disease while, of course, producing stunning oils.

The Favolosa and Don Carlo trees are indeed thriving in the Ruggiero groves, thanks in part to genetics but also to key steps Nicola and Mario have taken. Because of less rain each year, they switched to a more targeted irrigation system that uses water more efficiently. They also insist on top-of-the-line milling equipment. When other producers doubted such big investments, Nicola waved them off, knowing that these decisions would all be reflected in the bottle.

As happened to many other producers this year, a good number of blossoms in the Ruggiero groves were lost to frost. In this situation, a tree, despite bearing less fruit, will still provide the same amount of energy for the fruit’s development, causing the existing olives to ripen faster than normal—making it easy to miss the magic window, the perfect time to harvest for optimal flavor. But the Ruggiero team knows when and how to harvest. On hand this season was Dr. Andrea Pezzolla, an agronomist born and raised in Puglia and a highly sought-after miller. Talk about a small world—he spends a month in the Southern Hemisphere during its harvest and often works with our Australia-based friend and producer Leandro Ravetti. We so appreciated Andrea’s input as we perfected the final blend.

My Merry Band of Tasters and I were able to explore more of Puglia on this trip, especially the food! One bite and we knew why Puglia is called the breadbasket of Italy—its locally grown durum wheat gives bread and pasta unique flavor. I’ve translated the most delectable dishes into recipes that you can enjoy, each elevated by this marvelous olive oil.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This exquisite expression of the Favolosa and Don Carlo olive varieties is both vibrant and rare. Inhale the freshness of green grass and tomato leaf along with baby spinach, Belgium endive, arugula, celery, parsley, basil, green banana, apple, and vanilla. On the palate, it’s bright and persistent, evoking fresh walnut, tomato, and celery leaf, with the lingering bitterness and spiciness of arugula and white pepper and pleasing notes of sweet almond on the finish.

It’s perfect for mild vinaigrettes to drizzle on salads and other greens. It will elevate smoothies, yogurt, eggs, mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, and avocado. It will enhance chicken scarpariello,* turkey, mild fish, and shrimp dishes; pasta sauces; Tuscan braised green beans; root vegetable soups; grains and legumes, especially white beans and lentils; and lingue di gatto and other cookies.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

An invaluable tip from olive oil expert Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, a charter member of my Merry Band of Tasters, motivated me in 2018 to check out Claudio Di Mercurio’s farm in Abruzzo. Claudio, Duccio said, was milling exquisite olive oil on his 60-acre farm. Though a novice (Claudio produced his first oil in 2010), his oils were already winning awards. We even had a mutual friend—Giorgio Mori—a manufacturer of high-end olive milling equipment, who helped Claudio outfit his state-of-the-art olive mill.

Though I’d made many trips to Italy, I’d never visited Abruzzo until then. This stunning region, pinned between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, is known as the greenest region in Italy. (Incredibly, 70 percent of the European continent’s species of wildlife call Abruzzo home.) When we first met, the genial Claudio introduced me to an Abruzzese cultivar—Dritta (rhymes with Rita). I was positively captivated. I couldn’t wait to share this remarkable oil with my Club members. Unbelievably, this is the eighth consecutive year this vigorous, highly dependable olive has met my rigorous standards. Its record is unprecedented. Most olive cultivars alternate yearly between high and low production, allowing the trees to restore their energy.

This year, Claudio and his family welcomed my team and me to their hilltop home near Penne with their usual effusive warmth. It’s always great to affirm our strong bond by catching up in person with each other’s lives.

Claudio sprang a delightful surprise on me during my recent visit: He thoughtfully invited the esteemed olive oil expert Dr. Marino Giorgetti to join us for dinner one evening. I was thrilled to meet this olive oil pioneer. Read more about Dr. Giorgetti’s significant contributions to the development of standardized sensory criteria for olive oil above.

Once again, this was a great year for Claudio’s olives—he tends a healthy mix of Dritta and other Italian varietals. No surprise: Abruzzo’s isolation and unique microclimates have favored its olive trees for thousands of years. Its oils were praised by ancient Roman poets like Virgil and Ovid, who, if they could taste the current early harvest of “liquid gold” from Frantoio Mercurius, would faint with joy.

Also swoon-worthy are the magnificent meals Claudio’s sister Graziella prepares in a rustic stonework kitchen/pantry attached to the house. She pays homage to Abruzzo’s fabulous gastronomic heritage by cooking festive dishes like porchetta (slow-cooked spiced pork roll), stracciatella (a brothy soup with pasta), and my new favorite—tacchino alla Canzanese (boned and braised turkey, served with its natural gelatin). I felt supremely honored when Claudio confided that the family prepares these dishes for Easter, Christmas, and “when T. J. visits.”

I predict you will enjoy this extraordinary blend on a multitude of winter dishes. See my specific suggestions below.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

Enhanced with Leccino and Frantoio, this Dritta delights. Take in the rich aromas of Tuscan kale and other dark leafy greens, artichoke, rhubarb, hazelnut, dark chocolate, apple, and culinary herbs like thyme, sage, and wild mint. These notes echo on the palate, along with the bitterness of radicchio, the sweetness of vanilla bean, and the spiciness of Szechwan peppercorns.

Drizzle it on salads with nuts and fruits, steamed artichokes, borlotti and other beans, even chocolate ice cream. It enriches frittatas, minestrone, pallotte cacio e uova* and other simmered tomato sauces; crown roast of lamb, pork, and game; salmon, tiella Barese, and other shellfish dishes; whole roasted carrots and other root vegetables; apple spice muffins and other baked treats, like banana and pumpkin quick breads.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

Earlier in this report, I refer to Nicolangelo Marsicani as the Picasso of olive oil, for his bold genius. I also think of him as a poet, heeding Emily Dickinson’s rule to “tell the truth, but tell it slant.” Sometimes he speaks in riddles, like the Sphinx.

Even the label on the extraordinary EVOO that bears his name is cryptic. When I ask him what the pentagon figure means, he pauses, then intones, “Perfect balance.” To me, the five-cornered shape looks like a constellation, reminding me that the stars must align when I select a superlative EVOO for my Club. Nicolangelo agrees, and we hone in on five critical factors that go into the production of a perfectly balanced olive oil: cultivar, climate/terroir, weather (Mother Nature), grove, and miller.

Let’s lead with the miller. Asked how he got his start, Nicolangelo quips, “Trapiantato,” “transplanted,” or, colloquially, “born this way.” I chuckle, but it’s accurate—the Marsicani family’s olive mill, in the town of Cilento, in Campania, was registered with the chamber of commerce in 1928. Over time, the farm passed to Nicolangelo. He dismisses his early work in the “traditional old style, with a dusty mill and not taking care of things.” Everything changed when he “discovered tasting,” in the early 2000s. (Read about the science of olive oil tasting in the Pressing Report intro.) “From night to day,” he says; he modernized the mill with state-of-the-art equipment to focus on crafting ultra-premium, high-polyphenol EVOO.

The Marsicani farm is an elite-level hub for quality-obsessed growers and millers across Italy—talented farmers bring their finest fruit to press, inspired millers come to collaborate, and the cross-pollination of expertise and experimentation forms lasting relationships and elevates the quality of Italian EVOO.

Reciprocally, Nicolangelo travels throughout the country, teaching (“learning,” he amends) and consulting at premier olive farms such as Fratelli Ruggiero, where we first collaborated last year. (We’d met more than a decade before, an encounter I recall with fond amusement, as it was clear that he was testing me. Fair enough—as an American in a safari hat, I’m accustomed to proving my bona fides.)

With the paucity of olives in central Italy this year, Nicolangelo and I convened in Puglia, along with Michele Siniscalchi, a gifted technician who works regularly with the master miller. Our sights were set on a field of gorgeous Coratina, a challenging cultivar that, when handled right, makes an exquisite oil: spicy, robust, mind-blowing. Anticipating the “magic window,” we had to wait a few days as the fruit came off the tree in stages; this enabled us to harvest successive batches of the same crop while the weather cooled a bit.

In the mill, Nicolangelo and Michele used “white gloves,” as the former puts it, modulating the crushing speed halfway through, slowing down the process to bring softer, rounder “edges” to the flavors. The different micro-batches combine to create a complex, dimensional, ultra-green-grassy-herbal-nutty, big, bold, fantastic oil.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

This assertive Coratina is intense and complex on the nose, rich with the aromas of almond, artichoke, green grass, arugula, kiwi, fennel, oregano, rosemary, and black pepper. The intensity continues on the palate, with notes of green almond and wheatgrass; herbs like wild mint, oregano, and sage; the bitterness of chicory and green tea; and the persistent spiciness of black pepper, celery leaves, and watercress.

Lavish it on fried eggs; salads with kale and other dark greens; focaccia con patate,* crusty breads, and pizza; steak, veal, tuna, and sword-fish; curries and other Asian dishes. It will elevate creamy mushroom ragoût; winter veggies like broccoli and Brussels sprouts; hearty braises, bean soups, roasted potatoes, and roasted radicchio; aged cheeses; and double chocolate bundt cake and other dark chocolate desserts.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

Recipes

• Double Chocolate Bundt Cake This rich and tender cake is a crowd pleaser. If you’d like to gild the lily for a triple chocolate cake, instead of the confectioners’ sugar, melt 1/2 cup half-and-half with 6 ounces dark chocolate pieces and drizzle over the top. Note: For an easy release, be thorough when you prep the bundt pan. Ingredients… view recipe
• Lingue di Gatto Cookies Because of their shape, these cookies are called lingue di gatto, or cat’s tongues. They’re ubiquitous in Italy, enjoyed as a treat with espresso or served as a garnish for gelato and custards (they double as a spoon!). Chilling the piped dough before baking will help the cookies keep their shape, but they do spread… view recipe
• Tuscan Braised Green Beans This is a zesty alternative to steamed green beans, with ingredients that reflect the colors of the Italian flag. Ingredients 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, diced 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 pound fresh green beans, ends trimmed 4 fresh plum tomatoes, diced, or one 14-ounce can diced tomatoes Coarse sea salt… view recipe
• Roasted Whole Carrots Carrots in various hues make a glorious presentation. Ingredients 12 carrots, scrubbed or peeled and trimmed as needed 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar of Modena, plus more for drizzling Maldon sea salt flakes Directions Preheat… view recipe
• Tiella Barese Tiella, named for the ceramic cookware this dish is traditionally baked in, consists of layers of potatoes, mussels, and rice. This version was inspired by the way it’s made in Bari, the vibrant city on the Adriatic Sea. Tiella is said to have originated during Spanish rule in the 16th century, which explains why it’s… view recipe
• Creamy Mushroom Ragoût This earthy medley is easy and very versatile. Serve it over pasta, polenta, or rice, or stir it into a flavorful risotto. Replace the cream with vegetable broth for a vegan version. Ingredients 1 cup dried porcini mushrooms 2 cups boiling homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken or vegetable broth 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil… view recipe
• Chicken Scarpariello This one-pot meal is hearty, tangy, and perfect for a Sunday night supper with family or friends. The name is Italian for “shoemaker’s chicken.” Some versions contain potatoes, but I prefer to leave them out or substitute mushrooms. If you are unable to find pickled cherry peppers at your local market, feel free to substitute… view recipe
• Crown Roast of Lamb This is an elegant yet easy dish that will wow your guests. A crown roast is simply two racks of lamb, 7 or 8 chops each, tied together at the ends to form a circle. You can do it yourself with butcher’s string or ask your butcher to assemble it for you. The meat is… view recipe
• Focaccia con Patate In Southern Italy, mashed potatoes are often worked into focaccia dough, but I like to use thin slices of potato as a topping. Fingerling potatoes yield perfectly sized discs, but you can also use creamer or new red potatoes. Getting the slices as thin as possible is more important than the diameter so that they’ll… view recipe
• Pallotte Cacio e Pepe Similar to arancini (rice balls) but even simpler to make, pallotte cacio e uova—cheese-and-egg balls—are a classic poor man’s dish from the Abruzzo region that was traditionally made from leftovers. The balls are usually deep-fried, but I prefer to sauté them for a lighter taste. Often served as a first course, they also make a… view recipe

Direct From Australia!
A Trio of Exquisite Extra Virgin Olive Oils All From Gold-Medal-Winning Farms Perfect for Your Autumn Table

• Food-friendly fresh-pressed oils created by your Olive Oil Hunter and the leading Aussie artisanal producers.
• Unique expressions of prized varietals and rich in polyphenols, the source of EVOO’s wide-ranging health benefits.
• Rushed to the US by jet to maximize freshness and independently certified to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil.

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It’s not hyperbole to say that I travel to the four corners of the world to find Club members the freshest and food-friendliest extra virgin olive oils on the planet. Though my annual visit to Australia is the longest trip I make each year—close to 24 hours in the air—I always look forward to it because the island continent is like no other: the people, the landscapes, the food.

Many people are surprised that the southeastern state of Victoria produces exquisite olive oil, not realizing that its climate, indeed its many microclimates, mirror the growing conditions around the Mediterranean. The history of Australian extra virgin olive oil is decidedly shorter, but the growers I’ve forged relationships with (for well over a decade now) are every bit as passionate as their European counterparts—they live and breathe olive oil.

Aussie EVOO is so delectable because the producers know how to balance art and science to create superb New World olive oils from Old World varieties. Consider Kyneton, producer of our bold oil: estate manager Mick Labbozzetta’s parents came here from Italy, and he’s joined for every harvest by Davide Bruno, an Italian master miller—the seasons of the Southern Hemisphere occur at opposite times of the year, so many European experts are able to travel here and share their knowledge.

An Embarrassment of Riches

Melbourne, my first stop in Australia, is synonymous with Melissa Wong, olive oil authority, former restauranteur, fellow foodie, and all-around gastronomic genius. Her exquisite palate is so appreciated at the grand tastings she organizes for my Merry Band of Tasters and me. This year had a delicious twist: like the surf along Victoria’s beaches, the fresh-pressed olive oil samples came in seemingly endless waves. Every time I thought we had crafted the perfect blends, more contenders—superstars all—arrived for us to taste. “Recalibrate” became our mantra.

With such an array of delicious and unique oils to choose from, you might think that the season was a slam dunk, but, in actuality, many growers lost huge amounts of olives because of Mother Nature’s mean bag of tricks, specifically an unexpected frost that killed the blossoms of early-flowering varietals. According to world-renowned olive savant, master miller, and honorary member of my Merry Band, Leandro Ravetti, growers lost on average 40 percent of potential olives to frost. Indeed, when we met up, my good friend John Symington of Oasis, a name familiar to Club members, told me that one of his farms had lost 90 percent of its olives!

The saving grace? The Aussie producers we worked with knew how to pivot and focus on pampering their late-flowering varietals. Another important edge is that they have groves in various microclimates, sometimes hundreds of miles apart, so we’re never counting on just one. However, they faced other challenges—the summer was very hot and dry, and it took a long time for autumnal temperatures to arrive. That meant harvesting earlier in the day, working on the cooler days, and, in some cases, pausing the harvest. The bottles you now have in front of you are testament to their skills in the field and the mill.

Oz: Always in Good Taste

Second only to the pleasure I take in sampling fresh-pressed oils is discovering new food trends and sharing them with you. Melbourne (or Mel-buhn, as the locals pronounce it) is a foodie city, and it’s wonderful to see how its restaurants have embraced ultra-premium extra virgin olive oil. At Antara, for instance, the chefs created a dining series featuring local oils, with dishes that included wood-fired scallops, a duck parfait, and a citrus pavlova, all lavished with EVOO. There’s also a huge coffee culture here, and a brew called tiger bomb is all the rage (I’ve given it my own spin in the recipe section below).

It’s no secret that everywhere I go, I take the best of the fresh-pressed olive oil blends with me to make sure they pair perfectly with many cuisines before I deem them ready for the Club—that’s easy to do in Australia because so many restaurants specialize in ethnic cuisines. The three selections you’re about to try have met my self-avowed impossibly high standards, so I know you will enjoy them throughout the season on all your favorite autumn dishes, as will I.

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

• Producer: AuLife
  Middle Park, Australia
• Olive Varieties: Picual
• Flavor Profile: Mild

When Melissa Wong and I first met at the original Food Network studios in New York, now nearly 25 years ago, I could never have dreamed that we would forge such a deep friendship and one day be working together so closely…on the other side of the world. When the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club was just a gleam in my eye, this gracious and elegant food-globetrotter partnered with Michelin chef Claudio Sadler to open a branch of his Sadler Ristorante in Beijing. When Melissa and her husband Robert decided to relocate from Asia to Melbourne, she founded AuLife to promote Australia’s extraordinary olive oils and other gourmet specialty foods.

With her meticulous judgment and discerning palate, Melissa has become one of my most trusted collaborators in Australia—my “boots on the ground,” as I often refer to her. Our relationship has only deepened over the years. In recent seasons, I’ve been thrilled to be back in her beautiful home—not only for our marathon tastings but also for collaborating with her on recipes. (She’s such a foodie that she’s the only person I know to have a Berkel, the top-of-the-line meat slicer, in their home kitchen!)

Melissa, originally from Vancouver, Canada, is an ultra-savvy EVOO scout and always has the inside scoop on the Oz olive oil scene. As we reviewed the many contenders for this quarter’s trio, she shared her vision for our mild selection: create an exceptional oil from two unique Picuals—one from Boort and the other from Kialla. Being a phenomenal taster, Melissa knew that this could be a powerful marriage. The two groves were 100 miles from each other, and while that might not seem like a great distance, each is a product of its terroir—literally, “sense of place,” which accounts for the different expressions of the same varietal. So many aspects of the environment, such as climate, soil, topography, and elevation, come together to create an oil’s distinctive characteristics. While one of the Picuals in this blend can be described as highly aromatic, the other has more structure, bitterness, and spiciness to it. We worked together to find just the right ratio, and the exquisite result is definitely greater than the sum of its parts.

Picual lovers will note the difference between the Aussie and the Spanish styles—there’s a wonderful tropical aspect to this olive oil, yet it also has intense flavor, perfect for autumn dishes from bruschetta to roasted root vegetables, soups, and stews.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This enchanting Picual has rich aromas of tomato and green grass, complemented by green banana, Asian pear, and tropical fruit. There are also notes of Bibb lettuce, celery, and white pepper, along with herbal notes of parsley, rosemary, and mint. When we sipped from the glass, we tasted tomato, baby lettuces, celery leaf, and green tea; the bitterness of radicchio and Belgian endive; and the spiciness of black pepper, with a sweet finish, persistent of fresh mint.

This exquisite oil will elevate mild vinaigrettes, tomato dishes, Asian salads, puréed soups, roasted “dirty” martini shrimp cocktail,* crudo, chicken and vegetable sheet pan “stir fry,” pasta, risotto, Melissa’s prawn and pork dumplings, white beans, lentils, couscous, baked sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and squash, fruit dishes, yogurt, ice cream, ANZAC cookies, and quick breads.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

• Producer: Nullamunjie
  Tongio, Australia
• Olive Varieties: Correggiola, Coratina, Leccino, Pendolino
• Flavor Profile: Medium

Though we love Melbourne’s big-city vibes, my Merry Band of Tasters and I are always eager to head northeast to bucolic East Gippsland to visit the award-winning Nullamunjie olive groves and its charming proprietress, Annie Paterson.

A visit to Greece in her early twenties ignited Annie’s passion for olive oil. To this day, she remembers a trip along the Aegean coastline, admiring the sage-colored leaves of olive trees framed by the windows of the tour bus. The large cattle ranch where she grew up was on the 37th parallel, the antipodal twin of the Mediterranean’s olive-growing region. She surmised that olive trees would thrive there. Alas, her father declined to sell land to her.

So, the next few decades of her life passed conventionally. Annie married successful Melbourne businessman and entrepreneur John Paterson, with whom she raised four children. Then, in 1998, Annie resurrected her dream by buying several hundred acres of family land on the slopes of Mt. Stawell. Appealingly, there was a water source for irrigation—the Tambo River. John was supportive of his wife’s olive oil ambitions, accepting Annie’s frequent absences and often traveling with her to the groves some 250 miles away from their home.

As always, it was wonderful to see Annie again. John, who serves on numerous corporate boards, was also able to join us this year—a rare treat. Despite working long hours at the pressing shed (Aussie slang for “mill”), Annie was her usual effervescent self, always leaving laughter and hilarity in her wake. John lovingly restores her energy and good humor after a long day by opening a nice bottle of red wine and by preparing one of his specialties—spaghetti bolognese or hearty beef bourguignon.

She had us in stitches one evening, describing the flocks of yellow-crested cockatoos that pinch off olive-bearing branches with their wickedly sharp beaks. Not to eat them, Annie clarifies, but simply for the birds’ own amusement. To combat them, she has dispatched drones, fired a percussive gun, and resorted to screaming at them. “They’re very intelligent,” Annie says. And, evidently, very difficult to disperse.

Nullamunjie oils, she told us, will soon be used in a hip new restaurant in Sydney called 20 Chapel. Chef Costelloe’s signature dish is woodfired Wagyu steak drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Annie confided that this is one of her favorite uses of her oils. (Try it for yourself.)

Despite the cockatoo scourge, incursions into the groves of deer and oafish kangaroos (both of which can trample young seedlings), and untimely temperature extremes, Annie was very pleased with the quality of this season’s oils. I was, too! The farm blend we created especially for you—a special thanks to indispensable Nullamunjie operations manager Riley Nivens—features Italian varietals in a unique and food-friendly combination. I am always astounded by Annie’s commitment to excellence, using innovative strategies, upgrading equipment, buying additional land, planting new trees, and following sound environmental practices. Most of all, I salute this septuagenarian’s boundless energy and continued investment in her farm’s future.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

This assertive blend of Correggiola, Coratina, Leccino, and Pendolino delights with the scents of sweet almond, fennel, Tuscan kale, artichoke, arugula, kiwi, green peppercorns, and thyme, along with nutmeg, cinnamon, and vanilla. Its complexity was apparent on the palate with the essence of green artichoke and fresh walnuts, dark leafy greens such as Swiss chard, fresh oregano, the sweetness of golden apple, bitterness of cacao beans, and spiciness of black pepper and arugula.

Lavish this oil on bruschetta, hearty salads, and salads with nuts; Australian zucchini breakfast slice* and other egg dishes; duck, roasted chicken, and turkey; steaks; pasta with meat sauces; fatty fish, octopus, and calamari; pizza; gai lan, roasted root vegetables, and garbanzo beans; Annie’s baked pears, and chocolate and nut-based desserts.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

• Producer: Kyneton
  Bylands, Australia
• Olive Varieties: Coratina, Frantoio
• Flavor Profile: Bold

“Super green…slightly lighter green…but all green,” is how master miller Davide Bruno described the gorgeous Coratina olives showcased in this superstar EVOO. Davide, who’s worked with Kyneton since 2018, knows exactly what I prize: early-harvest oil, pressed during that magic window when the fruit is at the peak of its flavor and brimming with healthful polyphenols.

Victoria-based Kyneton, one of the pioneers of Aussie ultra-premium olive oil, has been a destination for me and my Merry Band of Tasters since 2009. In the intervening years, over several delicious Club collaborations, the Kyneton crew—headed by estate manager Mick Labbozzetta—and I have developed fond friendships, born of an ever-evolving mutual desire to create great olive oil. Kyneton’s motto is “Australian made, Italian heritage,” embodied by its all-Italian (and Italian-descent) team, state-of-the-art Italian milling equipment, and olive roster of mainly Italian varietals.

Mick was born in Adelaide to a Calabrian father and Sicilian mother, both of whom immigrated to Australia in the 1950s. He often looks like he stepped out of a classic film, dapper yet down-to-earth, with a trademark newsboy cap. He joined Kyneton in 2016 via what I described at the time as a “tale of two households,” like Romeo and Juliet, except the families liked each other and everyone lived happily ever after. Mick’s daughter, Melissa, is married to Robert Inturissi, whose family acquired Kyneton from the Trovatellos (whose award-winning farm was already a Club favorite). With everyone’s blessing, Mick took the helm, continuing and expanding Kyneton’s innovation and excellence.

Mick’s love of family extends to his production team: Davide Bruno joins for the harvest—the rest of the year, he works the opposite season as a master miller in his native Liguria—and is supported in the Kyneton groves year-round by Calabrian Carmelo Tramontana. When the three of them are in the harvest groove, Italian phrases buzzing while just-picked olives are being rushed to the mill, you’d swear you were in the old country.

During the off season, Mick took a long-anticipated trip to Italy, visiting his father’s village of Sinopoli as well as a mill in Calabria run by one of his dad’s old schoolmates. Mick and I reflected on how different European olive oil production can be. “They have their traditional habits,” he said, noting that the Australian way is much more open, more about sharing—not only fruit but also equipment, harvesting and milling techniques, and hard-earned wisdom.

I was thrilled to get advance word from Kyneton of an outstanding Coratina harvest—the first from a team they collaborate with near the town of Bendigo, about 200 km (120 miles) from Bylands. Mick and Davide worked closely with the farm’s growers, advising and optimizing. “Only green fruit for us, please, please,” Davide laughed, imitating his plea. The combination of exquisite Coratina, harvested at precisely the right moment; a splash of Frantoio, with soft almond flavors; and a new olive crusher in Kyneton’s mill enabled us to create a delectably harmonious oil, robust, well-balanced, and exceedingly food-friendly.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

An intense Coratina with a splash of Frantoio, this oil has quite the aromatic bouquet: green almond, tomato leaf, spinach, and wheatgrass; the sweetness of green apple; floral notes of nasturtium; and chopped culinary herbs—rosemary, oregano, and basil. On the palate, there was an explosion of macadamia nut and green almond, watercress, raw artichoke, and fennel, with notes of dark chocolate and coffee, rosemary, wild mint, lime zest, and the tingling spiciness and bitterness of celery leaf and arugula.

It will pair exquisitely with crusty breads; beet and goat cheese salad* and dark leafy green salads; butterflied leg of lamb with za’atar, beef, game, tuna, and salmon; soba noodles and peas with olive oil–soy dressing, hearty pasta sauces, rice pilafs and other grain dishes; and chocolate mousse.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

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Recipes

• Annie’s Baked Pears with Ice Cream and EVOO Annie also shared her recipe for slow-baked pears. “The long cooking time is essential—they’re just not the same if you try to hurry the dish along,” she explained. Serve them with the best-quality store-bought ice cream or make your own. Note: The pears can also be baked with the skins on for a more rustic… view recipe
• Gai Lan (Chinese Broccoli) Chinese broccoli is a delicious change from American greens. Melissa Wong shared her simple recipe with me. If you can’t find it at your local ethnic markets, feel free to substitute broccoli rabe. Vegetarian versions of oyster sauce are available online or at larger markets. Ingredients 1 pound gai lan or baby gai lan 4… view recipe
• Beet and Goat Cheese Salad Roasting vegetables brings out their depth of flavor and turns a simple salad into a spectacular one. Beets, in particular, become oh so sweet! Ingredients 2 small red or yellow beets, about 6 ounces each Extra virgin olive oil Pinch of kosher or coarse sea salt 4 cups micro greens or arugula 1 ripe pear,… view recipe
• Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Za’atar This lamb dish benefits from a za’atar dry rub, which infuses the meat with rich spices, and an olive oil marinade to keep it extra moist. Both create exceptional pan juices to drizzle over the finished slices. Ingredients For the za’atar: 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon… view recipe
• Chicken and Vegetable Sheet Pan “Stir Fry” Flavorful chicken thighs anchor this easy weeknight dish, which pays homage to Australia’s vibrant Asian community. It has the delicious sauce of a stir fry with the ease of a sheet pan dinner. Feel free to mix up the vegetables depending on what you harvest from your garden or find at the farmers’ market. Broccoli… view recipe
• Roasted “Dirty” Martini Shrimp Cocktail Bored with shrimp cocktails featuring ketchup and horseradish sauces, we decided to develop a recipe that celebrates fresh shrimp’s brininess. Taking our inspiration from dirty martinis, we roasted shrimp with a simple marinade to concentrate their flavor, then served them with a unique cocktail sauce featuring brined olives and the umami-rich Australian condiment Vegemite, available… view recipe
• Soba Noodles and Peas with Olive Oil-Soy Dressing Thin buckwheat noodles, called soba, have been enjoyed in Japan for thousands of years. But it wasn’t until 1993 that the first soba restaurant was opened in the Southern Hemisphere. From Sydney, the concept spread to other Australian cities. Add cooked shrimp (boiled, sautéed, or grilled) if you want to turn simple soba into a… view recipe
• Tiger Bomb Coffee My wife Meghan and I fell in love with this refreshing coffee drink created at Tone Coffee in Melbourne. My version adds a splash of fresh-pressed olive oil for polyphenol goodness and more richness. Ingredients 4 shots espresso 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon sweetened condensed milk 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil Pinch… view recipe
• “Grandma in the Mountains” ANZAC Biscuits Named for the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC), these “bickies,” or cookies, were created for soldiers fighting in World War I because they could withstand a long sea journey—ANZAC’s first major military action was in Gallipoli, Turkey. This version, a chewy inside with a crisp outside, comes from Annie Paterson. “It’s my grandmother’s… view recipe
• Australian Zucchini Breakfast Slice This frittata-like dish is beloved by Australians young and old. Cut into squares, a “slice” can be eaten out of hand and served hot, cold, or warm for breakfast, a main course, side dish, or snack. Though not traditional, I like the salty tang of pickled banana peppers or olives. Ingredients 1/4 cup extra virgin… view recipe