Savor Three Vibrant Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils from the Heart of Andalucía

• Prized varietals from Spain’s leading artisanal producers, these olive oils feature distinctive aromas and exquisite flavors.
• Certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin and brimming with healthful polyphenols, this trio has been rushed to you by jet.
• Incredibly food-friendly, they will elevate spring’s bounty of vegetables and other seasonal dishes.

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In any given quarter, Mother Nature can be the olive growers’ ally or their greatest nemesis. This year, she had knives out for the Iberian Peninsula. With apologies to Professor Henry Higgins in My Fair Lady, the rain in Spain fell mainly in vain, at the wrong time of year. Autumn saw no rain at all, resulting in olives that were more pit than pulp. And when rain did come, it was in a deluge that increased the water content of many olives to 60 percent, compared to the ideal of 50 to 55 percent. Those extra percentage points are enough to negatively skew flavors and aromas.

I knew from the steady stream of weather woes that it was going to be a challenge to create three oils that would live up to Club members’ expectations—not to mention my own! Portugal wasn’t even a contender this season, due to a lackluster harvest. We set our sights solely on Spain.

Overcoming the Odds

Along with Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, my trusted international olive oil expert, I determined which of Spain’s finest producers were most likely to craft oils that would meet—and hopefully exceed—our standards. Of course, the proof is always in the tasting glass, but early samples gave us confidence. Only the most expertly prepared producers—those who knew how to leverage irrigation, refrigeration, and skill to rise above the challenges—hit our targets for aroma and taste. As Duccio eloquently puts it, “They were able to surf the wave of this season while the others were underwater. Many growers who kept waiting for the best moment to harvest found it never arrived.”

Both Francisco “Paco” Vañó of Castillo de Canena and José and Andrés Gálvez of Finca Gálvez have irrigation systems that help them to adjust the level of water in the olive trees over the course of the long growing season as needed, as well as climate-control systems in their mills to keep the olives at an ideal cold-pressing temperature of 22°C (71°F). Our third chosen producer, García Torres, has groves that are perfectly positioned near the foot of the Sierra Morena mountains, at 700 meters (2300 feet) elevation, which provides natural coolness. As we tasted impressive early samples from these master growers, we knew that we could achieve perfection.

In the Presence of Greatness

My Merry Band of Tasters and I often get the opportunity to meet the legends who were instrumental in shaping the rarefied world of ultra-premium olive oil. Most of these elder statesmen are, well, men. It was especially exciting to be introduced to Anuncia Carpio Dueñas while visiting Finca Gálvez. Trained as a biologist at Instituto de la Grasa in Seville, Anuncia has been raising the standards for EVOO in Spain since 1986. A teacher, taster, and mentor, she has spent decades advocating for sensory, or organoleptic, analysis to ensure quality. She helped develop and validate tasting panels and has judged competitions from Europe to Japan, Chile and the US.

She recounted for me that a notable shift in EVOO’s importance occurred in 1992, when, in preparation for an expo in Spain, the government led a campaign focusing on the health benefits of high-quality olive oil, drawing on research about its polyphenols. Then it was off to the ultra-premium races.

Many improvements we now take for granted were influenced by Anuncia, including one that is particularly close to my heart and palate. She noted that the aromas and flavors of Picual were greatly enhanced when it was harvested early. Following her guidance, those producers crafting high-quality Picual commence the harvest much earlier in the season, ending around the time it used to start.

Paco describes Anuncia and her colleague Brigida Jiménez Herrera as being “prophets in the desert” when he first started Castillo de Canena more than 20 years ago, helping him achieve his goal of creating premium extra virgin olive oil. Anuncia remains active, though now retired after decades at the Ministry of Agriculture in Jaén, doing tastings, trainings, and advising millers as she campaigns for olive cultivation that honors the landscape and the environment. Anuncia and I are of one mind when it comes to the highest-quality olive oils, and I’m sure you’ll agree that this trio meets that ideal. These are oils you’ll love to lavish on all your favorite foods and seasonal recipes.

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

• Producer: Arbequina, Baeza, Andalucía, Spain
• Olive Varieties: Arbequina
• Flavor Profile: Mild

I will never forget my first visit to Castillo de Canena, a Renaissance-era castle built by Moors on the ruins of a Roman settlement in the province of Jaén. The year was 2005. I was ushered into a large hall dominated by a “sofa” made of massive slabs of stone. The armrests, I noticed, had concave depressions, worn down by the arms of thousands of visitors over the centuries, who like me, awaited an audience with the castle’s occupant.

If Francisco “Paco” Vañó—occupant of said castle in 2005 and to this day—sounds lord-like, I have misrepresented him: Though a sharp dresser, Paco’s demeanor is quite humble. We had met at the previous summer’s Fancy Food Show in New York City, where he exhibited his olive oils.

Though the family’s been associated with olive oil since George Washington’s time, Paco, his sister Rosa, and their father, Luis, dedicated themselves in 2003 to producing premium extra virgin olive oil. The guide to the planet’s best olive oils, Flos Olei, recently gave Castillo de Canena a perfect score—100 points—for the sixth consecutive year. Castillo de Canena has been inducted into the publication’s exclusive Hall of Fame, one of only nine such producers worldwide.

Paco is a highly respected olive oil authority, known especially for his generosity in sharing his expertise. His oils have delighted Club members for many years. Paco’s father consumes a spoonful every morning and will be 97 in June. Just sayin’.

In addition to producing oils of the highest quality, the family has dedicated itself to sustainability, innovation, and—very important to me—consistency. For years, I have listened to Paco recount the challenges of the harvest, knowing his oils will still be amazing. This year, the olive trees blossomed lushly on the branches’ periphery but not on the inner limbs, creating a deceptive promise of an ample crop. Early predictions were off by about 30 percent, Paco said. Untimely rains bedeviled the harvest. But quality control supervisor Mariela Chova Martínez expertly managed the harvest teams, directing them to the fruit that was at its peak. The resulting Arbequina is wonderful.

Paco is particularly proud of the fact that his team shares his passion for high-quality olive oil. And of the fact that most of the key players at Castillo de Canena are women (about 90 percent). That is unusual in the world of olive oil, which is generally dominated by men. But women have played pivotal roles in the elevation of olive oil quality. Read more about one of these influential female personalities above.

Though he is modest about his accomplishments, Paco told me he is currently working on a coffee-table book featuring Spain’s many unique contributions to world gastronomy. He will write the chapter on extra virgin olive oil with special enthusiasm.

Speaking of enthusiasm, I am thrilled to share his superlative extra virgin olive oil with you. Check out my personal suggestions for its use below

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This enticing Arbequina is full of personality. On the nose, we appreciated the aromas of golden apple, green banana, and almond, along with scents of wheatgrass, green tomato, Belgian endive, and basil. On the palate, there are notes of lettuce, endive, and fava beans; the nuttiness of almonds and hazelnuts; and the bitterness of escarole. Its beautiful finish has the spiciness of white pepper balanced by the sweetness of fresh mint.

Drizzle it into smoothies, over yogurt, and on salads with fruit and nuts. Create vinaigrettes and the marinade for Andalucían Roast Chicken.* It adds depth to delicate pork and veal entrées, Escabèche with Hake and other mild fin fish, paellas, and Spring Vegetable Medley and roasted vegetables, and is perfect for sweets like ice cream, chiffon cakes, and Baked Churros with Two Sauces.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

• Producer: Finca Gálvez, Jaén, Andalucía, Spain
• Olive Varieties: Picual
• Flavor Profile: Medium

Veteran Club members know that I love, love, love Picual—when done right, which can be tricky. (Don’t get me started on “Picual Gone Wrong.”) The ideal expression of Picual that I seek for my Club entails an early harvest of the finest fruit to create an enticingly herbaceous, robust, harmonious oil, redolent of fresh garden herbs and brimming with flavor. Or, as producer José Gálvez describes it, we strive to “transmit the soul of the fruit into the bottle.”

Finca Gálvez, family-run olive groves comprising 18 distinct farms across more than 5,000 acres in the province of Jaén, started producing artisanal EVOO in 1999, as a pioneer on the Spanish ultra-premium scene. I first met brothers José and Andrés Gálvez in 2005, and we collaborated on our first Club selection in 2008. Their oils have been fêted around the globe—the walls of one office are covered entirely in awards—yet the brothers and their talented team are always seeking to improve and innovate.

This season bestowed gorgeous fruit on the groves, and José kept me and my Merry Band of Tasters apprised of its progress throughout the growing season. He’s a boots-on-the-ground producer, inspecting the olives regularly from at least two months out so he can identify the exact moment to start harvesting. That moment—what I call “the magic window”—varies from farm to farm. For instance, one farm sits 300 meters (~990 feet) above sea level, while another farm a few miles away sits at higher elevation, in a different microclimate. The variations in topography, soil composition, and sun exposure across the farms produce a broader palette of aromas and flavors in the olives.

José explains, “In the mill, we don’t ‘make’ anything”—the aim of milling is to preserve the liquid gold in its purest form. “We do everything within our control to manage the fruit.” Internationally esteemed agronomist Patricia Cano, in her fifth year with the team, oversees the health of the olive trees on all 18 farms. Irrigation provides another crucial form of control; in this arid region, managing hydration of the trees is impossible with rain alone. The harvest team also tightly controls the intricately choreographed logistics of rushing the just-picked olives to the mill, keeping the fruit cool during transit and upon entry to the mill.

Last year, the Gálvez team incorporated a new cooling machine that chills the olive paste—below the standard temperature for “cold-pressed” oil—as it moves from the crusher to the malaxer, which then separates the oil from pulp and water. José notes “a big difference” with the added cooling, which preserves the roundness, balance, and harmony that make for an exceptionally food-friendly EVOO.

Finca Gálvez sorts the EVOO from each day’s harvest not just by varietal but also by aroma and flavor profile. With this technique, batches of the same varietal, pressed on different days from different microclimates, commingle into a complex and harmonious oil.

I can’t wait for you to taste this exquisite Picual. José speaks from my own heart when he says, simply, “I make oil for the people to enjoy.”

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

This Picual leads with a symphony of green grassy notes, such as Tuscan kale, arugula, and tomato leaf, followed by the sweet aromas of fennel and pear, and a cornucopia of chopped culinary herbs, notably rosemary, oregano, and thyme, with a whiff of crushed pepper. We tasted Tuscan kale, walnuts, baby spinach, fava beans, and herbs along with the bitterness of radicchio and the spiciness of arugula and green peppercorns.

It’s wonderful on egg dishes like Huevos a la Flamenca*; tomato-based dishes like Pan con Tomate and gazpacho; salads of radicchio, endive, and other greens; crusty breads, focaccia, and pizza; and cheeses. It makes a fabulous marinade for Beef Pinchitos and other grilled meats and enhances Spanish Rice with Garlic Shrimp, other seafood dishes, and beans and lentils. Drizzle it on cheesecake, chocolate mousse, and flan.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

• Producer: García Torres, Carcabuey, Andalucía, Spain
• Olive Varieties: Hojiblanca, Picudo
• Flavor Profile: Bold

Each time I visit the town of Carcabuey, I am struck by its beauty—whitewashed houses, winding streets, and lush bougainvillea that seems to grow everywhere. It’s only fitting that a place this exquisite would be where some of the finest olive oils in the world are produced.

I’m thrilled that for the third year in a row we’ve selected an olive oil from the team at Almazaras de la Subbética, the award-winning cooperative led by Luis Torres, head oenologist, and Carlos García, chief of operations and new dad to baby Alonso. Inspired to be one of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club’s selections, they push the flavor envelope for us. “You and the Club are top of mind at all our planning meetings so we can be sure to create the best oil for you,” Luis says proudly.

Luis and Carlos credit this year’s winning blend to two amazing milling talents: mill master Francisco Ramón García Ramírez and Miguel Ángel Ortiz López, whom he has been mentoring for the past six years. Francisco Ramón has announced his retirement after an illustrious career: he was just 17 when he first started working at a small mill in town and 30 when he became Almazaras de la Subbética’s mill manager, 35 years ago. Back then, the goal was simply pressing oil for the farmers in the co-op. When the decision was made, in the late ’90s, to build a new facility focused on ultra-premium EVOO, Francisco Ramón worked closely with the engineers to design it.

In 1999, Almazaras de la Subbética won its first gold medal, in Spain’s prestigious D.O.P. Priego de Córdoba competition. In all, Francisco Ramón’s tenure has seen a total of 2,152 prizes across Spanish and international competitions, including an ongoing nine-year streak in the EVOO World Ranking, a nonprofit created to spread the word about olive oils that have been recognized at international competitions. In 2023, Francisco Ramón won Best Mill Master from the Spanish Association of Olive Municipalities. “He has been key to the cooperative’s growth—not only for producing excellent oils but also for training the new generations who join the company,” praises Luis. As Francisco Ramón passes the baton, we celebrate his achievements, just as we are excited by the possibilities that lie ahead with Miguel.

“This season, we gave Miguel more opportunities to make key decisions, and he showed us that he’s the right person to run the mill. He loves the work and loves tasting olive oil—he’s learning a lot with every day’s tasting,” Luis says. “He also works hand in hand with Carlos—we have a formidable team.”

All this star power is concentrated in the extraordinary blend you have just received: 74 percent Hojiblanco and 26 percent Picudo. While the inclusion of Picudo is not new for a Club selection, in previous blends it was just a splash, enough to create some delicious drama. “Hojiblanca is always a winning variety—it never fails, but it is rare to get a Picudo this superb,” observes Luis. It takes a combination of the right temperature, rain at the right time and, of course, skill in the mill. The two varietals have a symbiotic relationship in the field—Picudo is a pollinator of Hojiblanca blossoms—and in the bottle. It’s a remarkable synthesis that I know you’ll enjoy as much as I do.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

In this beguiling duo, the spiciness of Hojiblanco is further elevated by the dark-green intensity of Picudo. Inhale the aromas of green grass, green tomato, artichoke, celery, and microgreens; the fruitiness of green apple, kiwi, rhubarb, and green almond; and hints of crushed black peppercorns. Next, taste an explosion of green tomato, artichoke, green almond, and parsley; and the bitterness and spiciness of arugula, celery leaves, and black pepper.

Lavish this vibrant oil on an Iberian Charcuterie Board* with whole grain breads and Green Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette and other composed salads. It enhances Spanish Pork Burgers and other pork, lamb, and game dishes, as well as grilled tuna, bluefish, sardines, calamari, and octopus. Enjoy it in (and on) frittatas, marinated vegetables, and hummus, and over yogurt and ice cream parfaits.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

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Vibrant pimentón, Spain’s famous smoked paprika, is a culinary mainstay. It’s the spice that gives cured Spanish chorizo its vibrant color, and you’ll see it in a number of the following recipes, along with the country’s distinctive sherry vinegar (we’re partial to vinegars made with the famed Pedro Ximénez grape, for its hint of sweetness). These are richly flavored dishes, many drawing on spring’s vegetable bounty, and perfect for enjoying this quarter’s olive oils.

Recipes

• Pan con Tomate This Catalan twist on bruschetta is simple and delicious. Choose the ripest tomatoes you can find. If available, Sungold cherry tomatoes make for a tasty and eye-catching tapa. Ingredients 8 ounces fresh tomatoes 3 garlic cloves, chopped 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar, preferably Pedro Ximénez, or more to taste 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1/2… view recipe
• Beef Pinchitos Pinchitos, skewers of highly spiced meat, are the highlight at barbecues across many areas of southern Spain. Though this recipe features beef, it’s equally good with chicken, pork, and lamb. To make pinchitos without turning on the grill, you can sear the meat in a Dutch oven and then place it on skewers to serve… view recipe
• Escabèche with Hake Escabèche is a zesty vegetable dish done in two steps: sautéing the vegetables in olive oil then marinating them in sherry vinegar. A popular way to serve it is with lightly fried anchovies. This recipe is for lovers of mild, white flaky fish. Hake is a member of the cod family found in the waters… view recipe
• Spring Vegetable Medley Hard-cooked eggs figure prominently in many Spanish dishes. With this sauté of spring vegetables, they elevate a side dish to meal status. Ingredients 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 6 thin scallions, trimmed 6 ounces asparagus spears, trimmed and cut in thirds 6 ounces shelled green peas 1 teaspoon coarse sea… view recipe
• Spanish Rice with Garlic Shrimp A vibrant, one-pot Spanish classic where saffron-spiced rice meets plump, garlicky shrimp — a weeknight dinner that feels like a dinner party. Ingredients For the rice: 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for the pot 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 red bell pepper, finely diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 cups… view recipe
• Spanish Pork Burgers It’s hard to beat the all-American beef hamburger, but this pork burger is one you’ll want to add to your repertoire. It can be cooked on the stovetop or grilled—your choice. Serve it with crispy fries, coleslaw, baked beans, or potato salad. Ingredients For the sauce: 1/2 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons finely diced red or… view recipe
• Iberian Green Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette I was inundated with recipe requests when I took this salad to a dinner party recently. It features incredible extra virgin olive oil plus an ingredient you might not be familiar with—guindilla peppers. These small slender peppers, typically sold pickled, hail from Basque country. Find them in the international section of your supermarket or online.… view recipe
• Huevos a la Flamenca (Spanish Eggs) Traveling, even vicariously, will whet your appetite for alternative breakfast or brunch dishes enjoyed in other parts of the world. Similar to Middle Eastern shakshuka, this Spanish marriage of mostly pantry ingredients plays to a sophisticated weekend audience. If served for brunch, lunch, or dinner, complement these eggs with a dry Spanish wine and crusty… view recipe
• Baked Churros with Two Sauces Traditional churros are deep-fried. For a lighter version, I’m baking them, with a sprinkling of sanding sugar, to create crispy puffs perfect for dipping in dulce de leche, chocolate sauce, or both! There are delicious brands of premade dulce de leche available online. But a very inexpensive way to make your own is the following… view recipe
• Iberian Charcuterie Board This is one of my favorites, and it involves no cooking and minimal prep. At its center are cured meats from the unique black Iberian pigs. The star of the show is jamón Ibérico, a cured ham with wonderful flavor. I also love chorizo Ibérico, cured sausage redolent of garlic and pimentón; salchichón Ibérico, similar… view recipe

From the Heart of Il Bel Paese Three Beautiful Extra Virgin Olive Oils To Create Magical Meals with Friends and Family

• Enjoy this dazzling trio, hand-selected by your Olive Oil Hunter, with prized varietals from award-winning family farms.
• Savor vibrant flavors that reflect bountiful polyphenols, the nutrients responsible for extra virgin olive oil’s many health benefits.
• Know that they’re certified 100 percent extra virgin olive oil by an independent lab and were rushed to the US by jet for maximum freshness and flavor.

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For millennia, olives have played a part in every aspect of Italian culture, from food to religious observances to medicine. With over 500 olive varieties, the harvest is an especially magical time here. The tourist crowds are mostly gone, the weather is cooler, and the air is perfumed with the green, herbaceous aroma of olio nuovo. But the relaxed pace that a casual visitor might enjoy is a world apart from the intensity with which my Merry Band of Tasters and I move as we hunt for the ultimate extra virgin olive oils for our Club members.

“Go South, Young Man”

We had an inkling of what to expect before we landed in Rome, with advance word that it would be a difficult season for many producers in Central Italy—Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio—because of the vagaries of Mother Nature.

This was apparent at the grand tasting organized by international olive oil virtuoso Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, yet we were dazzled by the first batch of samples from other regions. We narrowed it down to our leading contenders and headed east to Abruzzo, then south to Puglia (with a fun side trip to Campania), to create the sensational trio.

A Brush with History

In Penne, a town known for its historic brick structures (and the fashion house of Brioni), we worked with Claudio Di Mercurio of Frantoio Mercurius to craft an exquisite Dritta, our medium oil. Dritta means reliable—but never staid—and it lived up to its name once again. We deliciously enhanced it with Leccino and Frantoio. I was equally thrilled when Claudio organized a dinner with Dr. Marino Giorgetti, a groundbreaking figure in the world of extra virgin olive oil.

Dr. Giorgetti’s career started in the early ’80s at the Experimental Institute for Elaiotechnics (the science and technology of olive oil production) in Città Sant’Angelo. He was soon collaborating with Dr. Mario Solinas, the pioneering agronomist who conceptualized the sensory analysis of olive oil. Earlier olive oil assessment had been based purely on chemistry. The organoleptic descriptors used today—including those in our own “Impressions” sections—did not exist. An olive oil could get a pass on paper but completely fail on taste. There weren’t even words to express taste defects that characterize inferior oils. That all changed in 1989, when the International Olive Council adopted the use of sensory analysis, based on the work of Dr. Solinas and his counterparts in five other countries, forever redefining how extra virgin olive oil would be judged.

Since then, Dr. Giorgetti has traveled the world, teaching olive oil professionals how to be panel tasters—the top judges at competitions—using sensory descriptors. For more than 20 years, he has been panel leader and technical director of the Sol d’Oro International Competition, an organization with the foresight to hold separate events for the Northern and Southern hemispheres so that neither is at a freshness disadvantage, given their opposite harvest seasons. This desire to optimize freshness is the same reason that I, each year, divide my olive oil quests between the globe’s halves.

The Adriatic Awaits

Our hunt continued in Puglia, where we worked with brothers Nicola and Mario of Fratelli Ruggiero to craft our mild oil, an amazing Favolosa with a touch of Don Carlo. These two olives are modern-era cultivars, celebrated for their divine fruitiness and spiciness—mild, yes, but brimming with amazing aromas and fabulous flavors.

Having reconnected last year with master miller Nicolangelo Marsicani (we originally met over a decade ago!), I was eager to collaborate with him on our exceptional bold selection. I call him the Picasso of olive oil because of his ingenious artistry that went into creating our vibrant and perfectly balanced Coratina.

Puglia also tempted me with its many culinary treasures, from the freshest seafood in coastal Bari to the heartier dishes in storied inland towns like Altamura and Mariotto. I’m thrilled to share some of these delights with you in the recipe section. As always, they—and your own favorite recipes—will be elevated by the delicious oils in this trio.

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

After the success of our inaugural Fratelli Ruggiero olive oil last year, I couldn’t wait to reconnect with Nicola and Mario Ruggiero, the fratelli (brothers) creating exquisite liquid gold in Puglia.

From our very first meeting, I felt that Nicola and I were kindred spirits. Just over 20 years ago, while I was starting this Club to bring unmatched fresh-pressed oils to the US, Nicola sensed a growing desire in his country for artisanal EVOO—food-friendly oils with distinctive flavor profiles to lavish on favorite dishes. That was when he decided to add Favolosa to his groves for its herbaceous personality, “with more perfume of green grass,” as he described. Another cultivar, Don Carlo, with notes of Mediterranean herbs, soon followed.

Fast forward to this year’s harvest. Don Carlo was so enchanting when we tasted it at the mill that I decided to create another exciting first for the Club: the combination of Favolosa enhanced with Don Carlo. While most beloved olive cultivars are thousands of years old, these two are making history after mere decades. Both were developed naturally in the late 1980s–early 1990s by the late Giuseppe Fontanazza, director of the Institute of Research on Olive Growing of Perugia and a legend in the field of olive culture. He saw the need for olives that would thrive in the face of growing environmental challenges such as drought and disease while, of course, producing stunning oils.

The Favolosa and Don Carlo trees are indeed thriving in the Ruggiero groves, thanks in part to genetics but also to key steps Nicola and Mario have taken. Because of less rain each year, they switched to a more targeted irrigation system that uses water more efficiently. They also insist on top-of-the-line milling equipment. When other producers doubted such big investments, Nicola waved them off, knowing that these decisions would all be reflected in the bottle.

As happened to many other producers this year, a good number of blossoms in the Ruggiero groves were lost to frost. In this situation, a tree, despite bearing less fruit, will still provide the same amount of energy for the fruit’s development, causing the existing olives to ripen faster than normal—making it easy to miss the magic window, the perfect time to harvest for optimal flavor. But the Ruggiero team knows when and how to harvest. On hand this season was Dr. Andrea Pezzolla, an agronomist born and raised in Puglia and a highly sought-after miller. Talk about a small world—he spends a month in the Southern Hemisphere during its harvest and often works with our Australia-based friend and producer Leandro Ravetti. We so appreciated Andrea’s input as we perfected the final blend.

My Merry Band of Tasters and I were able to explore more of Puglia on this trip, especially the food! One bite and we knew why Puglia is called the breadbasket of Italy—its locally grown durum wheat gives bread and pasta unique flavor. I’ve translated the most delectable dishes into recipes that you can enjoy, each elevated by this marvelous olive oil.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This exquisite expression of the Favolosa and Don Carlo olive varieties is both vibrant and rare. Inhale the freshness of green grass and tomato leaf along with baby spinach, Belgium endive, arugula, celery, parsley, basil, green banana, apple, and vanilla. On the palate, it’s bright and persistent, evoking fresh walnut, tomato, and celery leaf, with the lingering bitterness and spiciness of arugula and white pepper and pleasing notes of sweet almond on the finish.

It’s perfect for mild vinaigrettes to drizzle on salads and other greens. It will elevate smoothies, yogurt, eggs, mozzarella, fresh tomatoes, and avocado. It will enhance chicken scarpariello,* turkey, mild fish, and shrimp dishes; pasta sauces; Tuscan braised green beans; root vegetable soups; grains and legumes, especially white beans and lentils; and lingue di gatto and other cookies.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

An invaluable tip from olive oil expert Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, a charter member of my Merry Band of Tasters, motivated me in 2018 to check out Claudio Di Mercurio’s farm in Abruzzo. Claudio, Duccio said, was milling exquisite olive oil on his 60-acre farm. Though a novice (Claudio produced his first oil in 2010), his oils were already winning awards. We even had a mutual friend—Giorgio Mori—a manufacturer of high-end olive milling equipment, who helped Claudio outfit his state-of-the-art olive mill.

Though I’d made many trips to Italy, I’d never visited Abruzzo until then. This stunning region, pinned between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic Sea, is known as the greenest region in Italy. (Incredibly, 70 percent of the European continent’s species of wildlife call Abruzzo home.) When we first met, the genial Claudio introduced me to an Abruzzese cultivar—Dritta (rhymes with Rita). I was positively captivated. I couldn’t wait to share this remarkable oil with my Club members. Unbelievably, this is the eighth consecutive year this vigorous, highly dependable olive has met my rigorous standards. Its record is unprecedented. Most olive cultivars alternate yearly between high and low production, allowing the trees to restore their energy.

This year, Claudio and his family welcomed my team and me to their hilltop home near Penne with their usual effusive warmth. It’s always great to affirm our strong bond by catching up in person with each other’s lives.

Claudio sprang a delightful surprise on me during my recent visit: He thoughtfully invited the esteemed olive oil expert Dr. Marino Giorgetti to join us for dinner one evening. I was thrilled to meet this olive oil pioneer. Read more about Dr. Giorgetti’s significant contributions to the development of standardized sensory criteria for olive oil above.

Once again, this was a great year for Claudio’s olives—he tends a healthy mix of Dritta and other Italian varietals. No surprise: Abruzzo’s isolation and unique microclimates have favored its olive trees for thousands of years. Its oils were praised by ancient Roman poets like Virgil and Ovid, who, if they could taste the current early harvest of “liquid gold” from Frantoio Mercurius, would faint with joy.

Also swoon-worthy are the magnificent meals Claudio’s sister Graziella prepares in a rustic stonework kitchen/pantry attached to the house. She pays homage to Abruzzo’s fabulous gastronomic heritage by cooking festive dishes like porchetta (slow-cooked spiced pork roll), stracciatella (a brothy soup with pasta), and my new favorite—tacchino alla Canzanese (boned and braised turkey, served with its natural gelatin). I felt supremely honored when Claudio confided that the family prepares these dishes for Easter, Christmas, and “when T. J. visits.”

I predict you will enjoy this extraordinary blend on a multitude of winter dishes. See my specific suggestions below.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

Enhanced with Leccino and Frantoio, this Dritta delights. Take in the rich aromas of Tuscan kale and other dark leafy greens, artichoke, rhubarb, hazelnut, dark chocolate, apple, and culinary herbs like thyme, sage, and wild mint. These notes echo on the palate, along with the bitterness of radicchio, the sweetness of vanilla bean, and the spiciness of Szechwan peppercorns.

Drizzle it on salads with nuts and fruits, steamed artichokes, borlotti and other beans, even chocolate ice cream. It enriches frittatas, minestrone, pallotte cacio e uova* and other simmered tomato sauces; crown roast of lamb, pork, and game; salmon, tiella Barese, and other shellfish dishes; whole roasted carrots and other root vegetables; apple spice muffins and other baked treats, like banana and pumpkin quick breads.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

Earlier in this report, I refer to Nicolangelo Marsicani as the Picasso of olive oil, for his bold genius. I also think of him as a poet, heeding Emily Dickinson’s rule to “tell the truth, but tell it slant.” Sometimes he speaks in riddles, like the Sphinx.

Even the label on the extraordinary EVOO that bears his name is cryptic. When I ask him what the pentagon figure means, he pauses, then intones, “Perfect balance.” To me, the five-cornered shape looks like a constellation, reminding me that the stars must align when I select a superlative EVOO for my Club. Nicolangelo agrees, and we hone in on five critical factors that go into the production of a perfectly balanced olive oil: cultivar, climate/terroir, weather (Mother Nature), grove, and miller.

Let’s lead with the miller. Asked how he got his start, Nicolangelo quips, “Trapiantato,” “transplanted,” or, colloquially, “born this way.” I chuckle, but it’s accurate—the Marsicani family’s olive mill, in the town of Cilento, in Campania, was registered with the chamber of commerce in 1928. Over time, the farm passed to Nicolangelo. He dismisses his early work in the “traditional old style, with a dusty mill and not taking care of things.” Everything changed when he “discovered tasting,” in the early 2000s. (Read about the science of olive oil tasting in the Pressing Report intro.) “From night to day,” he says; he modernized the mill with state-of-the-art equipment to focus on crafting ultra-premium, high-polyphenol EVOO.

The Marsicani farm is an elite-level hub for quality-obsessed growers and millers across Italy—talented farmers bring their finest fruit to press, inspired millers come to collaborate, and the cross-pollination of expertise and experimentation forms lasting relationships and elevates the quality of Italian EVOO.

Reciprocally, Nicolangelo travels throughout the country, teaching (“learning,” he amends) and consulting at premier olive farms such as Fratelli Ruggiero, where we first collaborated last year. (We’d met more than a decade before, an encounter I recall with fond amusement, as it was clear that he was testing me. Fair enough—as an American in a safari hat, I’m accustomed to proving my bona fides.)

With the paucity of olives in central Italy this year, Nicolangelo and I convened in Puglia, along with Michele Siniscalchi, a gifted technician who works regularly with the master miller. Our sights were set on a field of gorgeous Coratina, a challenging cultivar that, when handled right, makes an exquisite oil: spicy, robust, mind-blowing. Anticipating the “magic window,” we had to wait a few days as the fruit came off the tree in stages; this enabled us to harvest successive batches of the same crop while the weather cooled a bit.

In the mill, Nicolangelo and Michele used “white gloves,” as the former puts it, modulating the crushing speed halfway through, slowing down the process to bring softer, rounder “edges” to the flavors. The different micro-batches combine to create a complex, dimensional, ultra-green-grassy-herbal-nutty, big, bold, fantastic oil.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

This assertive Coratina is intense and complex on the nose, rich with the aromas of almond, artichoke, green grass, arugula, kiwi, fennel, oregano, rosemary, and black pepper. The intensity continues on the palate, with notes of green almond and wheatgrass; herbs like wild mint, oregano, and sage; the bitterness of chicory and green tea; and the persistent spiciness of black pepper, celery leaves, and watercress.

Lavish it on fried eggs; salads with kale and other dark greens; focaccia con patate,* crusty breads, and pizza; steak, veal, tuna, and sword-fish; curries and other Asian dishes. It will elevate creamy mushroom ragoût; winter veggies like broccoli and Brussels sprouts; hearty braises, bean soups, roasted potatoes, and roasted radicchio; aged cheeses; and double chocolate bundt cake and other dark chocolate desserts.

*See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

Recipes

• Double Chocolate Bundt Cake This rich and tender cake is a crowd pleaser. If you’d like to gild the lily for a triple chocolate cake, instead of the confectioners’ sugar, melt 1/2 cup half-and-half with 6 ounces dark chocolate pieces and drizzle over the top. Note: For an easy release, be thorough when you prep the bundt pan. Ingredients… view recipe
• Lingue di Gatto Cookies Because of their shape, these cookies are called lingue di gatto, or cat’s tongues. They’re ubiquitous in Italy, enjoyed as a treat with espresso or served as a garnish for gelato and custards (they double as a spoon!). Chilling the piped dough before baking will help the cookies keep their shape, but they do spread… view recipe
• Tuscan Braised Green Beans This is a zesty alternative to steamed green beans, with ingredients that reflect the colors of the Italian flag. Ingredients 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 medium onion, diced 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 pound fresh green beans, ends trimmed 4 fresh plum tomatoes, diced, or one 14-ounce can diced tomatoes Coarse sea salt… view recipe
• Roasted Whole Carrots Carrots in various hues make a glorious presentation. Ingredients 12 carrots, scrubbed or peeled and trimmed as needed 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar of Modena, plus more for drizzling Maldon sea salt flakes Directions Preheat… view recipe
• Tiella Barese Tiella, named for the ceramic cookware this dish is traditionally baked in, consists of layers of potatoes, mussels, and rice. This version was inspired by the way it’s made in Bari, the vibrant city on the Adriatic Sea. Tiella is said to have originated during Spanish rule in the 16th century, which explains why it’s… view recipe
• Creamy Mushroom Ragoût This earthy medley is easy and very versatile. Serve it over pasta, polenta, or rice, or stir it into a flavorful risotto. Replace the cream with vegetable broth for a vegan version. Ingredients 1 cup dried porcini mushrooms 2 cups boiling homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken or vegetable broth 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil… view recipe
• Chicken Scarpariello This one-pot meal is hearty, tangy, and perfect for a Sunday night supper with family or friends. The name is Italian for “shoemaker’s chicken.” Some versions contain potatoes, but I prefer to leave them out or substitute mushrooms. If you are unable to find pickled cherry peppers at your local market, feel free to substitute… view recipe
• Crown Roast of Lamb This is an elegant yet easy dish that will wow your guests. A crown roast is simply two racks of lamb, 7 or 8 chops each, tied together at the ends to form a circle. You can do it yourself with butcher’s string or ask your butcher to assemble it for you. The meat is… view recipe
• Focaccia con Patate In Southern Italy, mashed potatoes are often worked into focaccia dough, but I like to use thin slices of potato as a topping. Fingerling potatoes yield perfectly sized discs, but you can also use creamer or new red potatoes. Getting the slices as thin as possible is more important than the diameter so that they’ll… view recipe
• Pallotte Cacio e Pepe Similar to arancini (rice balls) but even simpler to make, pallotte cacio e uova—cheese-and-egg balls—are a classic poor man’s dish from the Abruzzo region that was traditionally made from leftovers. The balls are usually deep-fried, but I prefer to sauté them for a lighter taste. Often served as a first course, they also make a… view recipe

Direct From Australia!
A Trio of Exquisite Extra Virgin Olive Oils All From Gold-Medal-Winning Farms Perfect for Your Autumn Table

• Food-friendly fresh-pressed oils created by your Olive Oil Hunter and the leading Aussie artisanal producers.
• Unique expressions of prized varietals and rich in polyphenols, the source of EVOO’s wide-ranging health benefits.
• Rushed to the US by jet to maximize freshness and independently certified to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil.

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It’s not hyperbole to say that I travel to the four corners of the world to find Club members the freshest and food-friendliest extra virgin olive oils on the planet. Though my annual visit to Australia is the longest trip I make each year—close to 24 hours in the air—I always look forward to it because the island continent is like no other: the people, the landscapes, the food.

Many people are surprised that the southeastern state of Victoria produces exquisite olive oil, not realizing that its climate, indeed its many microclimates, mirror the growing conditions around the Mediterranean. The history of Australian extra virgin olive oil is decidedly shorter, but the growers I’ve forged relationships with (for well over a decade now) are every bit as passionate as their European counterparts—they live and breathe olive oil.

Aussie EVOO is so delectable because the producers know how to balance art and science to create superb New World olive oils from Old World varieties. Consider Kyneton, producer of our bold oil: estate manager Mick Labbozzetta’s parents came here from Italy, and he’s joined for every harvest by Davide Bruno, an Italian master miller—the seasons of the Southern Hemisphere occur at opposite times of the year, so many European experts are able to travel here and share their knowledge.

An Embarrassment of Riches

Melbourne, my first stop in Australia, is synonymous with Melissa Wong, olive oil authority, former restauranteur, fellow foodie, and all-around gastronomic genius. Her exquisite palate is so appreciated at the grand tastings she organizes for my Merry Band of Tasters and me. This year had a delicious twist: like the surf along Victoria’s beaches, the fresh-pressed olive oil samples came in seemingly endless waves. Every time I thought we had crafted the perfect blends, more contenders—superstars all—arrived for us to taste. “Recalibrate” became our mantra.

With such an array of delicious and unique oils to choose from, you might think that the season was a slam dunk, but, in actuality, many growers lost huge amounts of olives because of Mother Nature’s mean bag of tricks, specifically an unexpected frost that killed the blossoms of early-flowering varietals. According to world-renowned olive savant, master miller, and honorary member of my Merry Band, Leandro Ravetti, growers lost on average 40 percent of potential olives to frost. Indeed, when we met up, my good friend John Symington of Oasis, a name familiar to Club members, told me that one of his farms had lost 90 percent of its olives!

The saving grace? The Aussie producers we worked with knew how to pivot and focus on pampering their late-flowering varietals. Another important edge is that they have groves in various microclimates, sometimes hundreds of miles apart, so we’re never counting on just one. However, they faced other challenges—the summer was very hot and dry, and it took a long time for autumnal temperatures to arrive. That meant harvesting earlier in the day, working on the cooler days, and, in some cases, pausing the harvest. The bottles you now have in front of you are testament to their skills in the field and the mill.

Oz: Always in Good Taste

Second only to the pleasure I take in sampling fresh-pressed oils is discovering new food trends and sharing them with you. Melbourne (or Mel-buhn, as the locals pronounce it) is a foodie city, and it’s wonderful to see how its restaurants have embraced ultra-premium extra virgin olive oil. At Antara, for instance, the chefs created a dining series featuring local oils, with dishes that included wood-fired scallops, a duck parfait, and a citrus pavlova, all lavished with EVOO. There’s also a huge coffee culture here, and a brew called tiger bomb is all the rage (I’ve given it my own spin in the recipe section below).

It’s no secret that everywhere I go, I take the best of the fresh-pressed olive oil blends with me to make sure they pair perfectly with many cuisines before I deem them ready for the Club—that’s easy to do in Australia because so many restaurants specialize in ethnic cuisines. The three selections you’re about to try have met my self-avowed impossibly high standards, so I know you will enjoy them throughout the season on all your favorite autumn dishes, as will I.

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

• Producer: AuLife
  Middle Park, Australia
• Olive Varieties: Picual
• Flavor Profile: Mild

When Melissa Wong and I first met at the original Food Network studios in New York, now nearly 25 years ago, I could never have dreamed that we would forge such a deep friendship and one day be working together so closely…on the other side of the world. When the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club was just a gleam in my eye, this gracious and elegant food-globetrotter partnered with Michelin chef Claudio Sadler to open a branch of his Sadler Ristorante in Beijing. When Melissa and her husband Robert decided to relocate from Asia to Melbourne, she founded AuLife to promote Australia’s extraordinary olive oils and other gourmet specialty foods.

With her meticulous judgment and discerning palate, Melissa has become one of my most trusted collaborators in Australia—my “boots on the ground,” as I often refer to her. Our relationship has only deepened over the years. In recent seasons, I’ve been thrilled to be back in her beautiful home—not only for our marathon tastings but also for collaborating with her on recipes. (She’s such a foodie that she’s the only person I know to have a Berkel, the top-of-the-line meat slicer, in their home kitchen!)

Melissa, originally from Vancouver, Canada, is an ultra-savvy EVOO scout and always has the inside scoop on the Oz olive oil scene. As we reviewed the many contenders for this quarter’s trio, she shared her vision for our mild selection: create an exceptional oil from two unique Picuals—one from Boort and the other from Kialla. Being a phenomenal taster, Melissa knew that this could be a powerful marriage. The two groves were 100 miles from each other, and while that might not seem like a great distance, each is a product of its terroir—literally, “sense of place,” which accounts for the different expressions of the same varietal. So many aspects of the environment, such as climate, soil, topography, and elevation, come together to create an oil’s distinctive characteristics. While one of the Picuals in this blend can be described as highly aromatic, the other has more structure, bitterness, and spiciness to it. We worked together to find just the right ratio, and the exquisite result is definitely greater than the sum of its parts.

Picual lovers will note the difference between the Aussie and the Spanish styles—there’s a wonderful tropical aspect to this olive oil, yet it also has intense flavor, perfect for autumn dishes from bruschetta to roasted root vegetables, soups, and stews.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This enchanting Picual has rich aromas of tomato and green grass, complemented by green banana, Asian pear, and tropical fruit. There are also notes of Bibb lettuce, celery, and white pepper, along with herbal notes of parsley, rosemary, and mint. When we sipped from the glass, we tasted tomato, baby lettuces, celery leaf, and green tea; the bitterness of radicchio and Belgian endive; and the spiciness of black pepper, with a sweet finish, persistent of fresh mint.

This exquisite oil will elevate mild vinaigrettes, tomato dishes, Asian salads, puréed soups, roasted “dirty” martini shrimp cocktail,* crudo, chicken and vegetable sheet pan “stir fry,” pasta, risotto, Melissa’s prawn and pork dumplings, white beans, lentils, couscous, baked sweet potatoes, pumpkins, and squash, fruit dishes, yogurt, ice cream, ANZAC cookies, and quick breads.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

• Producer: Nullamunjie
  Tongio, Australia
• Olive Varieties: Correggiola, Coratina, Leccino, Pendolino
• Flavor Profile: Medium

Though we love Melbourne’s big-city vibes, my Merry Band of Tasters and I are always eager to head northeast to bucolic East Gippsland to visit the award-winning Nullamunjie olive groves and its charming proprietress, Annie Paterson.

A visit to Greece in her early twenties ignited Annie’s passion for olive oil. To this day, she remembers a trip along the Aegean coastline, admiring the sage-colored leaves of olive trees framed by the windows of the tour bus. The large cattle ranch where she grew up was on the 37th parallel, the antipodal twin of the Mediterranean’s olive-growing region. She surmised that olive trees would thrive there. Alas, her father declined to sell land to her.

So, the next few decades of her life passed conventionally. Annie married successful Melbourne businessman and entrepreneur John Paterson, with whom she raised four children. Then, in 1998, Annie resurrected her dream by buying several hundred acres of family land on the slopes of Mt. Stawell. Appealingly, there was a water source for irrigation—the Tambo River. John was supportive of his wife’s olive oil ambitions, accepting Annie’s frequent absences and often traveling with her to the groves some 250 miles away from their home.

As always, it was wonderful to see Annie again. John, who serves on numerous corporate boards, was also able to join us this year—a rare treat. Despite working long hours at the pressing shed (Aussie slang for “mill”), Annie was her usual effervescent self, always leaving laughter and hilarity in her wake. John lovingly restores her energy and good humor after a long day by opening a nice bottle of red wine and by preparing one of his specialties—spaghetti bolognese or hearty beef bourguignon.

She had us in stitches one evening, describing the flocks of yellow-crested cockatoos that pinch off olive-bearing branches with their wickedly sharp beaks. Not to eat them, Annie clarifies, but simply for the birds’ own amusement. To combat them, she has dispatched drones, fired a percussive gun, and resorted to screaming at them. “They’re very intelligent,” Annie says. And, evidently, very difficult to disperse.

Nullamunjie oils, she told us, will soon be used in a hip new restaurant in Sydney called 20 Chapel. Chef Costelloe’s signature dish is woodfired Wagyu steak drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. Annie confided that this is one of her favorite uses of her oils. (Try it for yourself.)

Despite the cockatoo scourge, incursions into the groves of deer and oafish kangaroos (both of which can trample young seedlings), and untimely temperature extremes, Annie was very pleased with the quality of this season’s oils. I was, too! The farm blend we created especially for you—a special thanks to indispensable Nullamunjie operations manager Riley Nivens—features Italian varietals in a unique and food-friendly combination. I am always astounded by Annie’s commitment to excellence, using innovative strategies, upgrading equipment, buying additional land, planting new trees, and following sound environmental practices. Most of all, I salute this septuagenarian’s boundless energy and continued investment in her farm’s future.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

This assertive blend of Correggiola, Coratina, Leccino, and Pendolino delights with the scents of sweet almond, fennel, Tuscan kale, artichoke, arugula, kiwi, green peppercorns, and thyme, along with nutmeg, cinnamon, and vanilla. Its complexity was apparent on the palate with the essence of green artichoke and fresh walnuts, dark leafy greens such as Swiss chard, fresh oregano, the sweetness of golden apple, bitterness of cacao beans, and spiciness of black pepper and arugula.

Lavish this oil on bruschetta, hearty salads, and salads with nuts; Australian zucchini breakfast slice* and other egg dishes; duck, roasted chicken, and turkey; steaks; pasta with meat sauces; fatty fish, octopus, and calamari; pizza; gai lan, roasted root vegetables, and garbanzo beans; Annie’s baked pears, and chocolate and nut-based desserts.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

• Producer: Kyneton
  Bylands, Australia
• Olive Varieties: Coratina, Frantoio
• Flavor Profile: Bold

“Super green…slightly lighter green…but all green,” is how master miller Davide Bruno described the gorgeous Coratina olives showcased in this superstar EVOO. Davide, who’s worked with Kyneton since 2018, knows exactly what I prize: early-harvest oil, pressed during that magic window when the fruit is at the peak of its flavor and brimming with healthful polyphenols.

Victoria-based Kyneton, one of the pioneers of Aussie ultra-premium olive oil, has been a destination for me and my Merry Band of Tasters since 2009. In the intervening years, over several delicious Club collaborations, the Kyneton crew—headed by estate manager Mick Labbozzetta—and I have developed fond friendships, born of an ever-evolving mutual desire to create great olive oil. Kyneton’s motto is “Australian made, Italian heritage,” embodied by its all-Italian (and Italian-descent) team, state-of-the-art Italian milling equipment, and olive roster of mainly Italian varietals.

Mick was born in Adelaide to a Calabrian father and Sicilian mother, both of whom immigrated to Australia in the 1950s. He often looks like he stepped out of a classic film, dapper yet down-to-earth, with a trademark newsboy cap. He joined Kyneton in 2016 via what I described at the time as a “tale of two households,” like Romeo and Juliet, except the families liked each other and everyone lived happily ever after. Mick’s daughter, Melissa, is married to Robert Inturissi, whose family acquired Kyneton from the Trovatellos (whose award-winning farm was already a Club favorite). With everyone’s blessing, Mick took the helm, continuing and expanding Kyneton’s innovation and excellence.

Mick’s love of family extends to his production team: Davide Bruno joins for the harvest—the rest of the year, he works the opposite season as a master miller in his native Liguria—and is supported in the Kyneton groves year-round by Calabrian Carmelo Tramontana. When the three of them are in the harvest groove, Italian phrases buzzing while just-picked olives are being rushed to the mill, you’d swear you were in the old country.

During the off season, Mick took a long-anticipated trip to Italy, visiting his father’s village of Sinopoli as well as a mill in Calabria run by one of his dad’s old schoolmates. Mick and I reflected on how different European olive oil production can be. “They have their traditional habits,” he said, noting that the Australian way is much more open, more about sharing—not only fruit but also equipment, harvesting and milling techniques, and hard-earned wisdom.

I was thrilled to get advance word from Kyneton of an outstanding Coratina harvest—the first from a team they collaborate with near the town of Bendigo, about 200 km (120 miles) from Bylands. Mick and Davide worked closely with the farm’s growers, advising and optimizing. “Only green fruit for us, please, please,” Davide laughed, imitating his plea. The combination of exquisite Coratina, harvested at precisely the right moment; a splash of Frantoio, with soft almond flavors; and a new olive crusher in Kyneton’s mill enabled us to create a delectably harmonious oil, robust, well-balanced, and exceedingly food-friendly.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

An intense Coratina with a splash of Frantoio, this oil has quite the aromatic bouquet: green almond, tomato leaf, spinach, and wheatgrass; the sweetness of green apple; floral notes of nasturtium; and chopped culinary herbs—rosemary, oregano, and basil. On the palate, there was an explosion of macadamia nut and green almond, watercress, raw artichoke, and fennel, with notes of dark chocolate and coffee, rosemary, wild mint, lime zest, and the tingling spiciness and bitterness of celery leaf and arugula.

It will pair exquisitely with crusty breads; beet and goat cheese salad* and dark leafy green salads; butterflied leg of lamb with za’atar, beef, game, tuna, and salmon; soba noodles and peas with olive oil–soy dressing, hearty pasta sauces, rice pilafs and other grain dishes; and chocolate mousse.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

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Recipes

• Annie’s Baked Pears with Ice Cream and EVOO Annie also shared her recipe for slow-baked pears. “The long cooking time is essential—they’re just not the same if you try to hurry the dish along,” she explained. Serve them with the best-quality store-bought ice cream or make your own. Note: The pears can also be baked with the skins on for a more rustic… view recipe
• Gai Lan (Chinese Broccoli) Chinese broccoli is a delicious change from American greens. Melissa Wong shared her simple recipe with me. If you can’t find it at your local ethnic markets, feel free to substitute broccoli rabe. Vegetarian versions of oyster sauce are available online or at larger markets. Ingredients 1 pound gai lan or baby gai lan 4… view recipe
• Beet and Goat Cheese Salad Roasting vegetables brings out their depth of flavor and turns a simple salad into a spectacular one. Beets, in particular, become oh so sweet! Ingredients 2 small red or yellow beets, about 6 ounces each Extra virgin olive oil Pinch of kosher or coarse sea salt 4 cups micro greens or arugula 1 ripe pear,… view recipe
• Butterflied Leg of Lamb with Za’atar This lamb dish benefits from a za’atar dry rub, which infuses the meat with rich spices, and an olive oil marinade to keep it extra moist. Both create exceptional pan juices to drizzle over the finished slices. Ingredients For the za’atar: 1 tablespoon cumin seeds 1 tablespoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 tablespoon… view recipe
• Chicken and Vegetable Sheet Pan “Stir Fry” Flavorful chicken thighs anchor this easy weeknight dish, which pays homage to Australia’s vibrant Asian community. It has the delicious sauce of a stir fry with the ease of a sheet pan dinner. Feel free to mix up the vegetables depending on what you harvest from your garden or find at the farmers’ market. Broccoli… view recipe
• Roasted “Dirty” Martini Shrimp Cocktail Bored with shrimp cocktails featuring ketchup and horseradish sauces, we decided to develop a recipe that celebrates fresh shrimp’s brininess. Taking our inspiration from dirty martinis, we roasted shrimp with a simple marinade to concentrate their flavor, then served them with a unique cocktail sauce featuring brined olives and the umami-rich Australian condiment Vegemite, available… view recipe
• Soba Noodles and Peas with Olive Oil-Soy Dressing Thin buckwheat noodles, called soba, have been enjoyed in Japan for thousands of years. But it wasn’t until 1993 that the first soba restaurant was opened in the Southern Hemisphere. From Sydney, the concept spread to other Australian cities. Add cooked shrimp (boiled, sautéed, or grilled) if you want to turn simple soba into a… view recipe
• Tiger Bomb Coffee My wife Meghan and I fell in love with this refreshing coffee drink created at Tone Coffee in Melbourne. My version adds a splash of fresh-pressed olive oil for polyphenol goodness and more richness. Ingredients 4 shots espresso 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream 1 tablespoon sweetened condensed milk 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil Pinch… view recipe
• “Grandma in the Mountains” ANZAC Biscuits Named for the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC), these “bickies,” or cookies, were created for soldiers fighting in World War I because they could withstand a long sea journey—ANZAC’s first major military action was in Gallipoli, Turkey. This version, a chewy inside with a crisp outside, comes from Annie Paterson. “It’s my grandmother’s… view recipe
• Australian Zucchini Breakfast Slice This frittata-like dish is beloved by Australians young and old. Cut into squares, a “slice” can be eaten out of hand and served hot, cold, or warm for breakfast, a main course, side dish, or snack. Though not traditional, I like the salty tang of pickled banana peppers or olives. Ingredients 1/4 cup extra virgin… view recipe

Sumptuous Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils from Chile’s Leading Artisanal Producer Will Delight Your Taste Buds and Elevate Every Meal

• These Club exclusives, available nowhere else, showcase this South American country’s amazing olive varietals.
• Each unique blend is extraordinarily food-friendly, ready to lavish on all your seasonal dishes.
• Certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil, this trio was rushed to the US by jet so that you can experience the tantalizing flavors and healthy polyphenols at their peak.

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Majestic, awe-inspiring, breathtaking—those are the adjectives that come to mind every time I fly over the snow-capped Andes on my way to Santiago. The Chilean harvest always holds many surprises for your Olive Oil Hunter, and this year the results are beyond spectacular, from an enchanting Picual to an Arbequina enhanced with Coratina to an olive oil that’s an international cornucopia of cultivars—five varietals that come together to exceed the sum of its delicious parts! I am thrilled to present them to you for your warm-weather table.

My Merry Band of Tasters, Down South America Way

With the seasons reversed in the Southern Hemisphere, it always takes a few minutes to get accustomed to seeing the colors of autumn after leaving spring behind in the US. This is also Chile’s wine country (not as well-known as the Mendoza region of neighboring Argentina, but arguably ment to create outstanding olive oils rather than cut corners for a fast profit.)

At Juanjo’s side is master agronomist Juan Carlos Pérez, who, with 20 years of experience (more than three-quarters of them at Pobeña!), is considered a top olive expert in the country, and also has a patient and gentle nature that keeps everyone on an even keel. Thanks to his skill in the field—I’ve always said that exceptional olive oil starts in the field and is finished in the mill—we had incredible choices to play with! In Chile, “we” always includes my good friend and international olive oil competition judge Denise Langevin and my favorite olive savant, Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, whose expertise is in demand around the world.

Outpacing the Imminent Frost

This season had none of the typical drama—there was enough water for irrigation as needed, thanks in part to a new well on the farm and a light rain that primed the olives for harvest. But, in recent years, Mother Nature found a new Chilean curveball to throw: an early frost. That’s when the temperature drops below freezing overnight. When the dip lasts five hours or so, the olives freeze on the trees, negatively affecting the flavor of their oils. Last year, we heard that 40 percent of the country’s olives froze. But that didn’t stop lesser-quality oils from being sold at sky-high prices on the global market. As the country’s preeminent farm, Pobeña now has the better plan: harvest early to avoid the problem. “You lose some quantity,” Juanjo explained, “but the quality is superb, with vibrant aromas.”

I often talk about our fresh-pressed olive oils being food-friendly, and the culinary experiences we had in Santiago and in the countryside showcased this quality in our trio. We generously drizzled them at the farm-to-table lunch we had at the Alonso family homestead as well as the feast we enjoyed in Santa Cruz at Francis Mallmann’s Fuegos de Apalta, named for the open-fire kitchen in the center of the restaurant, a hallmark of the world-renowned grill master. Impressively, when we toured behind the scenes at Boragó, ranked one of the top restaurants in the world, we saw that Pobeña olive oil was used in the preparation of the exquisitely constructed food-as-art still-lifes created by its vast team of chefs. Though many fine-dining restaurants around the world use less expensive oils (to avoid cutting into their margins), Boragó, located in Santiago’s Vitacura neighborhood, uses only the very best—just like you, my discriminating Club member. Get ready to experience the taste sensations of these harvest-fresh oils in the inspired dishes in this report’s recipe section as well as with all your favorite food

Happy drizzling!

T. J. Robinson 
The Olive Oil Hunter®

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This Quarter’s First Selection

• Producer: Denise Langevin La Estrella, Chile
• Olive Varieties: Arbequina, Coratina
• Flavor Profile: Mild

“I cook everything with olive oil,” exhorts international olive oil authority Denise Langevin, drizzling a shimmering stream of our just-pressed Chilean blend over a grilled chorizo sausage in a soft roll, the savory South American sandwich known as choripán. “Many people save it for salad, and I tell them olive oil is for all food, you know.” Denise knows. She is a superlative olive oil taster, an in-demand adjudicator of olive oil competitions around the globe, from Los Ange-les to Turkey to China. Also an outstanding home chef, Denise treated me and my Merry Band of Tasters to a mouth-watering celebratory lunch at her home, a converted farmhouse in the town of Codegua, where she lives with her husband, Luis, Rottweiler Augustina, and a sheep named Pio Pio.

When we pulled up on a perfectly crisp autumn day—remember, Chile’s seasons are the opposite of ours—Luis was already manning the grill next to their tiled patio, as Pio Pio munched on grass in a corner of the yard. Denise ushered us to the table, where we whetted our appetite with marinated olives, some stuffed with blanched almonds and others with jamón Serrano (see the recipe on below). Lifting glasses of lime-hued pisco sour, we toasted to another collaborative culinary venture.

Then, savoring the food-friendliness of our dazzling olive oil, we dined like kings on the afore-mentioned choripán, topped with one of two zesty pebres (Chilean salsa), and satisfying empanadas, warm from the grill and filled with pino (beef). For dessert, Denise wooed us with exquisitely tiered slices of milhojas, a Chilean millefeuille cake of sweet crepes layered with dulce de leche. I am swooning just remembering it.

I first met Denise more than a decade ago, in 2013, when she was director of exports at the Don Rafael Estate, one of Chile’s pioneer ultra-premium olive oil producers. As two supertasters, Denise and I hit it off from the start—I loved hearing about her adventures as an international olive oil judge, and she was intrigued to learn about my mission to provide the world’s finest fresh-pressed olive oil to Club members year-round. We first collaborated on an exclusive Club selection in 2020 and have worked together ever since. I adore strolling through the olive groves with her, stopping to test the fruit for ripeness (see photo on above).

Denise and I also share a pressing desire to educate others about the extraordinary flavors and bounteous health benefits of EVOO. In recent years, Denise has partnered with local grade schools to help foster healthy eating habits among schoolchildren, teaching eager kids about gardening and Chile’s abundant, nutritious produce. “Tia Denise,” the kids cheer, as they run to her—it’s amazing to witness. Denise’s warm, generous personality, delicately calibrated judgment, and exquisitely discriminating palate are mirrored in the qualities of this quarter’s mild selection. “Every collaboration is also a celebration,” Denise says, of its creators as well as of the olive varieties.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

This Arbequina enhanced with a touch of Coratina is bright, harmonious, and very complex. On the nose, we sensed fresh-cut grass, sweet almond, lettuce, green apple, mint, and hints of celery and lemon zest. On the palate, we noted fresh walnuts and the sweetness of green banana and fennel, plus Romaine lettuce and oregano, the bitterness of Belgian endive, and the lingering spiciness of celery leaves and white pepper.

Enjoy it with eggs, morning smoothies, lighter vinaigrettes, pasta salads, and salads with fruit; pan-seared cilantro citrus fish* and other mild fish, ceviche, and grilled chicken; quinoa bowls, rice dishes, cauliflower fritters, pastelera de choclo and other fresh corn dishes, artichokes, and asparagus; brie, ricotta, mozzarella, and other mild cheeses; hummus; stone fruit, baked goods, dulce de leche trifle, vanilla ice cream, and yogurt.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Second Selection

• Producer: El Agrónomo, La Estrella, Chile
• Olive Varieties: Coratina, Frantoio, Arbequina, Arbosana and Koroneiki
• Flavor Profile: Medium

A large map of the farm hangs in the tasting room at Agrícola Pobeña. It’s a colorful jigsaw puzzle that identifies the locations of all their olive fruit varietals—I like to think of it as a visual representation of the skills of master agronomist Juan Carlos Pérez. Rather than cluster each varietal together, he has created a lot of interplay to maximize sun exposure as well as changes in elevation, from flat areas to hilly ones where hand harvesting is a must.

Juan Carlos was drawn to agriculture as a child. Of his parents’ six sons, he was the only one who would excitedly sit next to his dad, a farmer, on his tractor. Fittingly, Juan Carlos’s youngest, eight-year-old Laura, is already showing signs of wanting to follow in his footsteps.

He had a blank slate when he arrived at the farm, excited at the prospect of growing a wide range of varietals, now 11 in all. He planted the first tree with the Alonso family, and it’s been a happy marriage ever since. Deeply knowledgeable across fields from earth science to biochemistry, Juan Carlos understands the unique terroir of this region like the back of his hand.

I asked him what makes Chilean extra virgin olive oils so special. “Location, location, location—we’re just 40 kilometers from the sea in a climate so similar to the Mediterranean,” he answered. “The topography of the farm is also key. We have a lot of gentle hills and have oriented the trees to the sun. Each oil has a different profile based on where the trees were planted. I feel that the oils from olives grown in the hills are more powerful—and those are the ones you used for the oils for Club members,” Juan Carlos said proudly.

This very special olive oil is a veritable United Nations of varietals, with Coratina and Frantoio representing the Italian contingent, Arbequina and Arbosana from Spain, and Koroneiki from Greece. It’s a masterful blending of five distinct “voices” that we orchestrated into a harmonious chorus.

Despite all the demands of the farm—Juan Carlos now turns his attention to propagating new trees, pruning and nurturing in preparation for the next season—he always amazes me with how he happy he looks. His calm demeanor has helped him retain a strong field team that comes back year after year. They gain more experience with each season, in turn making the harvest run smoothly.

I believe that a truly great olive oil starts with the fruit, in the grove, in the hands of the agronomist, who then works hand in hand with a master miller to turn amazing fruit into extraordinary olive oil. With his attention to detail and brilliant results, Juan Carlos is raising the bar for other agronomists around the world. We celebrate him by naming this exceptional olive oil El Agrónomo, after this star agronomist. When you taste it, you will too!

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

Only a talented agronomist could have made it possible to create this blend of five olive varietals originating from Italy, Spain, and Greece. The aroma is lush, with notes of Belgian endive, walnuts and almonds, green banana, baby spinach, Tuscan kale, arugula, and thyme, plus hints of vanilla bean, cinnamon, and lime zest. We tasted green almond, artichoke, escarole, arugula, and rosemary, the bitterness of chicory and radicchio, and spiciness of both Szechuan and black peppercorns.

Rich and verdant, this versatile olive oil will enhance pork, turkey, seafood dishes such as grilled shrimp with pisco and merquèn* and vieiras a la parmesana, and fattier fish, like sardines, tuna, and salmon; white and sweet potatoes, broccoli, and grilled vegetables; salads with nuts; beans, lentils, and grains; guacamole and other avocado dishes; pesto; and chocolate desserts.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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This Quarter’s Third Selection

• Producer: Abel Alonso, La Estrella, Chile
• Olive Varieties: Picual
• Flavor Profile: Bold

You’d be hard-pressed to meet anyone as gregarious as Juanjo Alonso, the youngest of five brothers, all of whom are involved in the various businesses started by their father, Abel. I find his joie de vivre contagious and look forward to spending time with him every year.

Juanjo’s journey from student at the San Francisco Art Institute in California to head of Chile’s premier olive oil producer began soon after he graduated. The budding artist supported himself as a house painter. Knowing that Juanjo had no interest in the family’s main concern, a very successful shoe company, Abel was able to eventually lure him back to Chile by offering to pay him the equivalent of a year’s salary to paint its corporate offices!

It wasn’t long before Abel shared his vision for an olive farm with Juanjo, the son he felt was destined for the project. Abel was born in the Basque region of Spain in 1935, at the start of the political and economic unrest that would lead to the country’s civil war. His family survived thanks to the food they grew in their garden, the memory that inspired his new quest.

One day he asked Juanjo to check out a potential property with him. “I had fallen in love with the majestic olive trees during my time in Northern California and had already started googling ‘olive trees’ and ‘olive farming,’ so I knew that even though the farm we visited was very nice, it was at too high an elevation considering the proximity to the Andes. ‘Olives don’t like frost, so this is not the property for us,’ I told my dad. And he immediately put me in charge of finding the right one!” Juanjo recounted.

Fast forward to today, and the fruits of all their early decisions are evident with award after award lining the mill walls. What I truly admire is that they allot resources for continual improvement, always reinvesting to maintain their high standards, from updating their irrigation system to buying new tractors to speed the fruit to the mill. It’s wonderful to hear Juanjo credit the Club for helping Chilean olive oils getting the recognition they so rightly deserve.

There’s also sad news to share. Late last summer, Abel became gravely ill while on a visit to Spain. Back in Chile, he refused treatment, preferring to spend his last days at the farm surrounded by his adoring family. “One after-noon, we sat together, looking out at the olive groves. ‘We made it, you and I—I believed in you, and I am so proud that you made our dream a reality,’ he told me.” Juanjo’s admiration for his father and the heartbreak over his loss were evident in his eyes.

We pay homage to Abel with this very special oil that bears his name and a label featuring the family’s coat of arms and a Basque-inspired font. I know he would have been ecstatic about this magnificent Picual I’ve created for you, a varietal from his native Spain, a zesty, complex character like Abel himself.

Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

A Picual lover’s dream, this is a bold expression of the cultivar. It’s intensely green and herbaceous on the nose: green tomato and tomato leaf, celery, arugula, and Asian pear, with notes of chopped basil and peppermint. It’s very green and vegetal on the palate, with the flavors of wheatgrass, baby kale, spinach, and pear; the astringency of green tea, bitterness and zest of arugula, and spiciness of green peppercorns; plus notes of wild mint, parsley, and rosemary.

Its big personality is perfect for hearty dishes like chorizo hash,* chicken empanadas, arrollado de huaso, costillar de chancho, grilled steaks, lamb, duck, and wild game; dark leafy green salads and bold vinaigrettes; crudités; tomato recipes from pizza and bruschetta to gazpacho and sauces; hearty pasta dishes; cured meats; blue and other aged cheeses; and crusty sourdough breads.

*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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Olive Oil and Health

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Kudos from Club Members

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Recipes

• Grilled Shrimp with Pisco and Merquén This dish features two iconic Chilean ingredients, merquèn and brandy-like pisco (in a pinch, you can use white tequila or rum instead). Ingredients Juice of 1 lime 1/4 cup pisco 1 1/2 teaspoons honey 2 teaspoons merquèn 1 teaspoon sea salt 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for basting 1 1/2 pounds large… view recipe
• Vieiras a la Parmesana (Parmesan-Crusted Scallops) This dish is a variation on the wildly popular machas a la parmesana, local razor clams (using oysters is also popular). Traditionally, each scallop is cooked separately in its own half-shell. While it’s rare to find scallops still in the shell in the US, you can buy cooking-grade shells for an elegant presentation. For simplicity,… view recipe
• Chicken Empanadas Many dishes were introduced to Latin America by Spanish explorers and colonists, including handheld meat pies called empanadas. Here, a flaky crust encloses a savory mixture of chicken, peppers, and an olive, which is traditional in Chilean empanadas. Merquèn is a popular Chilean spice blend of goat’s horn chile, coriander, and salt, which imparts a… view recipe
• Arrollado de Huaso (Stuffed Pork Loin) Reminiscent of Italian porchetta, my Chilean version is filled with chorizo and a popular vegetable in Chile—sweet potato, or camote. Forming the chorizo into a rectangle with a rolling pin helps more evenly distribute the meat. If you’d rather not flatten the pork yourself, simply ask your butcher to butterfly it for you. Ingredients One… view recipe
• Cauliflower Fritters This is a popular dish in Chile. Parboiling the cauliflower makes the fritters tender. Ingredients 1 head cauliflower, about 2 pounds 1 tablespoon sea salt 2 large eggs 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/2 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon… view recipe
• Borgoña Far simpler than a sangria, this Chilean drink is just red wine and macerated strawberries—sweet and refreshing at the same time. Ingredients 1 1/2 cups fresh strawberries 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 bottle Chilean red wine Optional garnishes: lime slices and fresh mint Directions Step 1 Rinse, pat dry,… view recipe
• Pan-Seared Cilantro Citrus Fish This marinade enhances all types of firm white fish, such as halibut, sole, cod, and hake, which in Chile is called merluza and is extremely popular because of its sweet, mild taste. Fun fact: What’s sold in the US as Chilean sea bass is typically neither Chilean nor bass but rather Patagonian toothfish, rebranded to… view recipe
• Denise’s Stuffed Olives When in Chile, I always look forward to breaking bread with my great friend, olive oil savant, and hostess extraordinaire Denise Langevin and enjoying her cooking. This is the first of two of her recipes that I’m sharing with you. It’s deceptively simple, but you want to source the highest quality ingredients. Note: If you… view recipe
• Costillar de Chanco (Chilean-Style Spareribs) Grilling is a popular method of cooking in Chile, where families often gather on weekends to enjoy simple but ample meals, often barbecues. St. Louis-style ribs are “squared off” or trimmed and have a flat, meaty shape. Ask your butcher to halve them—this creates more flavorful surface area. Baby back ribs can be substituted for… view recipe
• Pastelera de Choclo (Chilean Corn Pudding) Fresh corn is one of my favorite summer foods, and this corn pudding recipe, also from Denise Langevin, is such a delicious way to enjoy it. (Don’t fret if you fall in love and want it year-round—it can be made with 9 cups of frozen corn kernels.) Ingredients 12 ears fresh corn, raw 3 tablespoons… view recipe