Grilled Pear Salad with Greens and Port Vinaigrette and Peruvian Purple Potato Salad Recipes, Spotlight on Pear Balsamic Vinegar and Pairing with Extra Virgin Olive Oils
Vinegar Essentials, Part I: Pear Balsamic Vinegar
I’m so excited to once again share the magic of vinegar with you. The right vinegar can raise the taste profile of a dish in a unique way, adding deep and complex flavors. Traveling across Europe and tasting new and delightful offerings from renowned master crafters to put together my second curated collection was an amazing experience. Let me start by introducing you to pear balsamic, a fruity vinegar with the richness reminiscent of a traditional balsamic. I’ll also explain how to pair various vinegars with Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club offerings so you can get all the benefits of olive oil in even more delicious ways.
Grilled Pear Salad with Greens and Port Vinaigrette
Peaches or apricots are delicious alternatives to the pears.
Ingredients
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons Pear Balsamic Vinegar
1 tablespoon port wine (or more vinegar)
2 teaspoons honey
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
8 cups mixed greens, such as romaine lettuce, endive, radicchio, and arugula, torn, chopped, or sliced
3 ripe pears, such as Bosc, Bartlett, or d’Anjou
3 tablespoons mascarpone or another soft, creamy cheese
1/2 cup toasted macadamia nuts, chopped
1/2 cup pomegranate seeds for garnish (optional)
Directions
Step 1
Make the vinaigrette: In a jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the olive oil, vinegar, port, honey, and the ¼ teaspoons of salt and black pepper, and shake vigorously until emulsified. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Pour 3 tablespoons of the vinaigrette onto a shallow plate and reserve the remainder.
Step 2
Divide the salad greens among six plates. Cut each pear in half and remove the core. Dip the cut sides in the plated vinaigrette. Set up your grill for direct grilling. Grill the pears, cut sides down, until light grill marks appear, about 5 minutes.
Step 3
While the pears are still warm, arrange a pear half on each salad plate, cut side up, and put a dollop of mascarpone in each cavity. Drizzle with the reserved vinaigrette (shake the jar if necessary), and top with the toasted macadamia nuts and pomegranate seeds, if using.
The beauty of these potatoes is more than skin deep—they’re rich in antioxidants. Leave on the skins for maximum nutritional benefits.
Ingredients
2 pounds Peruvian purple potatoes, scrubbed
3 tablespoons Pear Balsamic Vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon black pepper, plus more to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped
1/4 cup red onion, peeled and diced
1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely diced (optional)
1/2 yellow or orange bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced
3 tablespoons each chopped fresh cilantro, parsley, and chives
Directions
Step 1
Boil the potatoes in salted water until just tender—20 minutes or so, depending on their size, but don’t overcook. Drain, let cool slightly, and quarter them. Transfer to a large bowl.
Step 2
In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, mustard, salt, and black pepper. Slowly whisk in the olive oil until the mixture emulsifies. Pour the vinaigrette evenly over the potatoes while they’re still warm. Gently fold in the olives, onion, jalapeño (if using), bell pepper, and herbs. Season to taste with more salt and black pepper.
Yields 4 to 6 servings
Spotlight on Pear Balsamic Vinegar
A modern-day creation from vintage fruit
If you’ve ever sampled flavored vinegars, prepare to be blown away by the taste difference in a vinegar crafted from real fruit with time-honored traditions. Alois Gölles Jr., whose father started their orchards in Riegersburg, Austria in the late 1950s, initially began creating fruit wines, juices, and spirits. A trip to Modena, Italy, in the early ’80s inspired him to create a balsamic vinegar from apples rather than grapes. Within a few years, word spread about this unique vinegar, and Alois then set his sights on making a pear balsamic. Interestingly, to preserve the wonderful pear notes, the Pear Balsamic Vinegar is not aged as long as the Apple Balsamic Vinegar in last year’s collection, yet it has the same depth of flavor.
This enchanting vinegar starts with one of the local cultivars, the Hirschbirne pear. At the time Alois first started using it, the Hirschbirne had almost disappeared from markets because of its astringent taste, but ironically, that’s exactly what makes it perfect for making top-notch vinegar.
It’s not surprising that this Pear Balsamic Vinegar has the sweet taste of a traditional balsamic as well as its richness: It’s made according to the traditional balsamic vinegar method. First, the fruit is sorted and washed, then it’s crushed and pressed. The resulting pear juice is carefully reduced over low heat until it is quite concentrated before being naturally fermented, first through alcoholic fermentation to produce wine, and then through vinegar fermentation to turn the wine into vinegar. What follows is four years of barrel aging to reduce the vinegar in a very slow fashion—that accounts for the thickness not seen in regular vinegars, the sweetness, the golden-brown color, and the mild taste.
Food Pairings
Enjoying Pear Balsamic Vinegar
This vinegar brings an element of sweetness to bitter greens, to salads with fruits and/or nuts, and to the classic caprese salad. It adds depth of flavor to any dish that includes fresh or poached pears (add it to the poaching liquid!). Include it in your favorite pork recipes. Just a few drops brighten savory dishes, especially winter vegetables, like sweet potatoes, brussels sprouts, fennel, acorn squash, and hearty beans. Drizzle it on blue cheeses and on Brie and other white rind cheeses; yogurt and granola parfaits; carpaccio, terrines, eggplant caponata, and bruschetta; grilled fish; and panna cotta-type puddings and vanilla ice cream. It’s perfect for deglazing and making a quick reduction—whisk it into pan-melted butter and you’ll have an amazing sauce.
Healthy Kitchen Nugget
Pairing vinegar varieties with extra virgin olive oils
While I don’t believe in any hard-and-fast rules, I do like to pair milder vinegars with milder oils so that one doesn’t overwhelm the other. If you’re using a bold selection from the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, go with a bold red wine vinegar. If you’re using a fruitier, milder olive oil, pair it with a fruit-based vinegar. Think about the foods on your plate, too. If you’re making a salad with bitter greens, add sweetness with a sweeter vinegar like a classic balsamic. If you’re making a chopped salad with provolone and salami, a tangy vinegar will balance the richness of the meat and cheese.
I also like to combine vinegars. For a vinaigrette with great complexity, use half balsamic for sweetness and half red wine vinegar for tartness along with your extra virgin olive oil. The beauty of having a collection of flavorful vinegars is that you can have fun discovering the pairings you like best.
Peaches or apricots are delicious alternatives to the pears.
Ingredients
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons Pear Balsamic Vinegar
1 tablespoon port wine (or more vinegar)
2 teaspoons honey
1/4 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper
8 cups mixed greens, such as romaine lettuce, endive, radicchio, and arugula, torn, chopped, or sliced
3 ripe pears, such as Bosc, Bartlett, or d’Anjou
3 tablespoons mascarpone or another soft, creamy cheese
1/2 cup toasted macadamia nuts, chopped
1/2 cup pomegranate seeds for garnish (optional)
Directions
Step 1
Make the vinaigrette: In a jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the olive oil, vinegar, port, honey, and the ¼ teaspoons of salt and black pepper, and shake vigorously until emulsified. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Pour 3 tablespoons of the vinaigrette onto a shallow plate and reserve the remainder.
Step 2
Divide the salad greens among six plates. Cut each pear in half and remove the core. Dip the cut sides in the plated vinaigrette. Set up your grill for direct grilling. Grill the pears, cut sides down, until light grill marks appear, about 5 minutes.
Step 3
While the pears are still warm, arrange a pear half on each salad plate, cut side up, and put a dollop of mascarpone in each cavity. Drizzle with the reserved vinaigrette (shake the jar if necessary), and top with the toasted macadamia nuts and pomegranate seeds, if using.
Debunking Common Myths About Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO) Once and for All
The expression “truth in advertising” seems to have gotten lost in the shuffle lately, especially when it comes to extra virgin olive oil, or EVOO. You’re likely to see buzzwords on labels and in ads without any way for you to know if a claim is true. There are also some persistent and confusing myths about EVOO that need to be corrected once and for all!
As your Olive Oil Hunter, I’d like to set the record straight so that you not only will enjoy the marvelous taste of true extra virgin olive oil but also get all of the healthful benefits from its high level of antioxidants, notably the polyphenols.
Myth: The best olive oil comes from Italy.
Fact: I love Italian olive oil—and I’m in Italy once a year at the optimal harvest time to work with master millers on their best oils. But I spend the other months circling the globe to source the best, just-pressed olive oils—and for half the year, that’s in the southern hemisphere. I can tell you that there are a number of countries that have conditions—like soil and climate—that are just as conducive to growing the right olives as Italy and other countries around the Mediterranean. Farms in Chile and Australia, for instance, grow a diverse variety of olives and produce phenomenal oils. The reason I source different oils each season is because freshness counts—in our summer months, I want you to have the taste of just-pressed olive oil from Chile, which is going to exceed the flavor of an Italian oil that was pressed and bottled six or more months earlier.
Myth: If it’s bottled in Italy, it’s a quality oil.
Fact: Many store-bought oils state “bottled in Italy” on the label, but that doesn’t mean the oil was pressed there or when it was pressed. A number of independent consumer investigations over the years have found that many off-the-shelf olive oils contained oils from other countries—they were just put in bottles in Italy—or, worse, that the olive oil was diluted with a lesser oil, like canola. Because none of this has to be disclosed on the label, buyer beware! Not only do these low-quality oils taste unappealing, but you’re also not getting the nutrients you thought you were.
There’s also an important distinction to be made between an oil mixed from a variety of producers/countries, as described above, and an oil that’s a masterful blend of a few different varietals, all of which were fresh-pressed from the same harvest and shipped quickly to you. The same way that a chef combines herbs and spices for the perfect dish, I bring together different olive varieties to create flavor profiles using the best of what my artisanal growers harvest each season. I might choose just one variety or use up to, say, three to create the oils for each of my collections.
You’re most likely to find the word “blend” tucked away in a corner of the label on a store-bought brand with no explanation, whereas in the Pressing Report, which I include with every Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club shipment, I write in great detail about the olives I chose.
Myth: You can’t use high-heat cooking methods with olive oil.
Fact: Olive oil is wonderful for so much more than drizzling on salads and other cold dishes. Premium EVOO has a smoke point of over 400°F. The antioxidants in high-quality extra virgin olive oil help it stay fresh and also help keep it from oxidizing during sautéing and frying, so cook up a storm! What’s more, raw vegetables cooked in EVOO with either of those methods tend to have more antioxidants as a result, according to research published in the journal FoodChemistry.
Myth: Olive oil should taste neutral, not bitter.
Fact:Bitterness is a desirable attribute of an olive oil, alongside pungency and fruitiness. It’s actually a sign of freshness. Great olive oil is often measured by whether it makes you cough when you sip it. The cough reaction tells you the oil is high in healthful polyphenols. A premium EVOO may be described as a one-, two-, or three-cough oil—the more the better!
There’s a reason store-bought oils taste bland. The highest-quality, best-tasting olive oil comes from olives harvested and pressed when they’re still green and contain only 10% oil—low yield but maximum flavor. Fully ripe olives that have turned black produce three times as much oil but have nowhere near the same taste. This is what many mass producers will use to get more product and why their oils have a lackluster taste. For the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, I always include a mild EVOO, along with a medium and a bold selection, but it’s chockful of nutrients, and the taste is never bland.
Myth: Olive oil should keep for more than a year.
Fact: That’s pushing the limits of freshness. Time, temperature, and light all conspire to affect olive oil. In terms of time, look for a harvest date on the label, not just an expiration date. You want to buy oil within six to 12 months of harvest. The expiration date doesn’t tell you when that was. In terms of guarding against light, olive oil should be bottled in dark glass, which helps shield it. In terms of heat, never keep your bottles out on the counter, near a window, in a cabinet above the stove, or any area that’s warm. The bottom shelf of a pantry cabinet is best.
Do take out your olive oil at meals and use it—don’t save it for special occasions. In our house, when we set the table, we put a bottle alongside the salt and pepper—it’s a “sauce” that Mother Nature has made for you, so enjoy it.
Myth: If it’s sold at my gourmet food store, it must be the real thing.
Fact:When you see the words “extra virgin,” know that they can have a very broad meaning. Extra virgin means that the oil was made from the first pressing of the olives, which is a good thing. But if that olive oil wasn’t made by mechanical means only—without heat or chemicals—and if it wasn’t bottled and shipped right away, it won’t taste much better than a lesser grade. Nor will it have the high levels of polyphenols that give extra virgin olive oil its superfood status and unmistakable taste.
Myth: The color of the EVOO is a good indicator of quality.
Fact: Many fresh-pressed olive oils are green in color, and that can range from a grassy green to a gold-green. But color isn’t the be-all and end-all indicator of quality. There should be a strong and bright aroma when you bring it to your nose—the bouquet should transport you to the olive grove! And, of course, the flavor should really excite your taste buds. Remember that olive oil is a fruit juice, so there should be a bright fruitiness to it.
Magic on Your Table: Introducing Three Ravishing, Harvest-Fresh Extra Virgin Olive Oils From the Land Down Under
This trio of extra virgin olive oils from award-winning Australian producers is exceedingly food friendly and will partner beautifully with the meals you enjoy when the weather cools.
Personally selected by the Olive Oil Hunter, these exclusive oils have no equals on supermarket shelves: they are available nowhere else.
All have been rushed to the US by jet to preserve their aromas, flavors, and healthful qualities.
All have been certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil.
Greetings—or should I say, “G’day, mate!”— from your Olive Oil Hunter, who has found three stunning Australian extra virgin olive oils from the current harvest for your fall table.
It was fantastic to be back in this vibrant, charismatic country. Its idiosyncrasies—and there are many—charm me. Aussie slang, for example, much of it derived from shortening English phrases: n’erries (no worries); brekkie (breakfast); cab sav (Cabernet Sauvignon).
Its unique wildlife—koalas, kangaroos, and egg-laying mammals like the echidna and platypus. Melbourne’s confounding road rules, including hook turns and P-turns.
I made my first trip to ’Straya in 2005. My motivation for traveling nearly halfway around the world—9,823 miles each way—was (and still is!) the freshness factor. Only in the Southern Hemisphere, where the seasons are the antipodal opposite of those in the Northern Hemisphere, could I find extra virgin olive oils this time of year that would satisfy my high standards.
Olives are a seasonal crop, harvested just once a year. Olives grown in the Northern Hemisphere still have months to go before they can be picked. That is why it’s such a joy to share—right now!—oils from Australia’s top producers. You’ll enjoy matching them to your favorite cool weather menus. (You’ll see my tasting notes and food pairing recommendations in the pages that follow.)
My longtime friend, the intercontinental foodie Melissa Wong (she’s lived in Canada, China, and Australia), graciously introduced me to one of her favorite markets, the South Melbourne Market. Established in 1867, the cavernous space houses dozens of small businesses selling everything from produce to cannelloni to dumplings. I love turning a shopping expedition into a sensory experience, inhaling the aromas of fresh vegetables and herbs, so many of which match up to the notes in fresh Australian olive oil.
Australian Olive Oil Surprises
Whenever I gift people with bottles of my fresh-pressed extra virgin olive oils, the recipients are often surprised to learn that Australia, aka “The Lucky Country,” produces “liquid gold.” But it wasn’t luck that enabled Australian olive oil producers (including the ones I collaborated with this quarter) to win nine gold and four silver awards at one of the most prestigious olive oil contests in the world, the annual New York International Olive Oil Competition (NYIOOC). They’re innovative, technically savvy, and above all, passionate.
While the modern olive oil industry in Oz is less than 30 years old, the country has a much longer history with olea europaea (the scientific name for olive trees). In the 1800s, Italian and Greek immigrants, the story goes, smuggled live olive cuttings in their neckties and the inseams of their trousers before they boarded ships. To their delight, the newcomers discovered southeastern Australia’s climactic temperament was similar to that of their homelands. (The country’s opposite latitudes, between 30° and 40°, are friendly to olives.) The oils the immigrants pressed were mostly for home use, as Australia’s European populace at that time preferred to cook with animal-based fats like lard.
Reunited and It Feels So Good
Because Australia produces just 1 percent of the world’s olive oil (nearly all of it—95 percent—qualifies as extra virgin), few Americans have tasted olive oils from this island continent. If you are new to the Club, know how delighted I am to introduce you to these extraordinary oils, produced by some of the most dedicated, detail-oriented producers I have met anywhere. If you are a veteran Club member, you know you’re in for a very pleasant experience!
As a trained chef, I have long admired celebrity chef Kylie Kwong. Kylie’s latest venture in the Sydney suburb of Eveleigh is a casual eatery that celebrates her Australian-Cantonese roots. (Kylie also founded the iconic restaurant Billy Kwong, named after her late father. It closed after 19 years so Kylie could focus on the new project.) She is an inspirational chef and has embraced the use of high-quality extra virgin olive oil in her artful and unique Asian dishes.
Featured in this quarter’s trio are oils from the award-winning Victorian groves of Oasis, Kyneton, and Leandro Ravetti. My Merry Band of Tasters and I, driven by my dear friend, Melissa Wong, traveled hundreds of miles in Melissa’s SUV to meet with the producers in person. I first became acquainted with Melissa, a consummate foodie, two decades ago at the Food Network studios in New York City. Today, Melissa lives in Melbourne. With her husband, Robert, she graciously hosted olive oil tastings for me and my team as well as marvelous dinners at her home. She never seemed to tire of squiring me to her favorite markets, cafes, and restaurants. Nearly too many to mention! As the founder of Australian specialty food purveyor AuLife and, more recently, The Good Soup Club, Melissa is well-connected to southeastern Australia’s thriving food culture. For years, she has been invaluable in helping me identify Oz’s best olive oil producers—my trusted “boots on the ground” whenever I need her assistance. (She did yeoman’s duty when travel was restricted.)
I was so happy to see everyone again and to put my own boots on the ground. (I recently invested in a pair of Tasmanian Blundstones—excellent for tramping in olive groves.)
Olive oil producer Annie Paterson is one of the merriest women I know. Hilarity just seems to follow her, even into the posh “members only” ladies’ club where she treated us to an elegant lunch. My Merry Band of Tasters and I couldn’t contain our laughter when Annie described fending off marauding cockatoos (they damage her olive fruit) with a drone. I didn’t realize how very much I’d missed this vibrant woman until we were reunited.
One of the many high spots of our trip was getting together with Annie Paterson, the irrepressible proprietress of Nullamunjie. Dressed in her signature pink sweater and South Sea pearls, Annie hosted a luncheon for me and my Merry Band at the posh Alexandra Club in Melbourne. Annie’s oils have long been Club member favorites, but they were compromised this year by persistent rain and naughty cockatoos, which Annie chased away from her olive trees with a drone. Her telling of the bird story unleashed yet another round of laughter at our table. (We laugh a lot when we’re with Annie.)
Expand Your Taste Library
These sensational extra virgin olive oils will be honored guests at your table, enhancing cooler weather foods like pumpkin and other squashes, braised meats, fresh seafood, fall fruits, charcuterie platters, and more. Meals, from casual suppers to holiday dinners, will become even more festive. And talk about a conversation starter! As you taste, savor, and use these exquisite oils in your seasonal cooking, please remember the proud Aussie producers halfway around the world who helped me put them on your table.
Happy drizzling!
T. J. Robinson The Olive Oil Hunter®
This Quarter’s First Selection
Producer: Leandro Ravetti, Boort, Victoria, 2022
Olive Varieties: Picual
Flavor Profile: Mild
As the late, great baseball player Yogi Berra would say, “It’s déjà vu all over again.”
I’m once again lunching, three years after my last visit, with olive oil expert Leandro Ravetti in a brick-walled restaurant at the Federal Mills complex, a very cool mixed-use industrial space (formerly a woolen mill) in the port city of Geelong, some 40 miles southwest of Melbourne. (Geelong, which is near Leandro’s office, is Victoria’s second largest city. It is pronounced “juh-long,” and was originally settled by the Wathaurong, a First Nations people.) Lined up in front of us are three sample bottles of this master miller’s finest extra virgin olive oils from the current harvest, his nominees this quarter for the Club, that if selected, will bear his name. We taste them individually, ritually inhaling their aromas; then “slurping” a small mouthful, a noisy, impolite process that involves drawing air into the mouth as if trying to cool a too-hot spoonful of soup (yes, we do this in public places); swallowing; and finally, evaluating the oil’s finish. Are its flavors fleeting or do they linger? (For more on how to properly taste olive oil, see below.)
The final test—and this is very important—is tasting the oil(s) with food. Leandro and I have both ordered a “power bowl” from the menu: a colorful, gluten-free mélange of roasted pumpkin, quinoa, fennel salad, hummus, and pepitas. (Find a recipe for Pumpkin Hummus on below.) For me, one oil “hit it out of the park,” to continue the baseball reference.
Drum roll, please: it was the Picual. And it was, in my opinion, the perfect candidate for the “mild” position in the Club’s third quarter trio. Leandro agreed.
Mutual respect has long been the foundation of my relationship with Leandro Ravetti, one of the world’s most renowned olive oil experts. Here, we are dining at “1915” in the popular Federal Mills complex in Geelong. Leandro’s fresh-pressed olive oils are in front of us, including the beguiling food-friendly Picual you’ve just received. It was delightful splashed on our entrees—roasted pumpkin bowls.
If you’re a veteran Club member, you’ll remember that Picual, whether on its own or fronting a blend, has generally occupied the “bold” slot in my global selections over the years. This cultivar’s Spanish progenitors might not recognize its Aussie kin. Though they share that desirable “tomato, tomato leaf” nuance prized by many olive oil lovers, the New World Picual Leandro’s been nurturing is more delicate than its Old World counterparts. In fact, I’ve pegged it as “mild” three years’ running.
I feel a bit proprietary toward the young trees that produced this lovely fruit; I was on site when some of them were planted back in 2015. For olive oil producers—any farmer, really—nearly every year brings its own challenges. This year, Leandro chuckled, snow fell early on Victoria’s Australian Alps, a region that attracts sports enthusiasts from around the globe. The backpackers he hired for the harvest couldn’t resist the fresh powder in the mountains, sometimes giving only an hour’s notice before leaving their jobs to ski or snowboard. On occasion, Leandro resorted to operating the farm’s harvester himself.
Boisterous laughter seems to be part of the Aussie culture. Here, I share a light moment with Leandro’s colleague, Candice Raeside, nursery manager. We are surrounded by thousands of healthy-looking olive cuttings; they will take about 5 years to mature. Everyone on the farm, from Candice’s crew to the harvest and milling teams, is personally invested in the success of the oils, and they are so proud when they win prestigious international awards!
In hindsight, the timing of my first trip to Oz, in 2005, couldn’t have been better. The Australian Olive Association (AOA), which was founded in 1995 to resuscitate Australia’s olive industry, was just developing traction in its mission, even making introductions on my behalf to some of the country’s up-and-coming producers. Meanwhile, a passionate agricultural student with Italian roots was just finishing up his studies at the National University of Catamarca in Argentina. (That was Leandro, of course.) He did post-graduate work in Italy and Spain before returning to Argentina, where his accomplishments brought him to the attention of Modern Olives in Lara, Victoria. In 2001, Leandro became the technical director of the company, overseeing its olive tree nursery, laboratory, and budding relationships with Australia’s novice olive growers.
No one—least of all, Leandro, who is also an avid cook—could have predicted what an impact he would have on the world’s olive oil industry. Now a much sought-after expert who travels the globe, Leandro was instrumental in convincing producers to print “use by” dates on their oils. He has also railed against subjective marketing terms like “light” or “pure,” and championed some of the highest olive oil standards globally—standards that cannot be ignored by Old World producers. (My wife, Meghan, and I bumped into this intrepid world traveler at the airport when we were leaving Australia for home after a wonderful visit. He was headed to northern California—UC Davis—where he teaches milling and horticultural classes.)
When Leandro and I put our names on a bottle of extra virgin olive oil, you can be assured it’s very, very special. We can’t wait for you to taste this versatile oil on cooler-weather foods.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
This Picual is a mono-varietal native to Spain. It is so fragrant you’ll want to dab it behind your ears. You’ll inhale the essence of sun-ripened tomatoes, tomato leaf, fresh-cut grass, butter lettuce, celery, dried tropical fruits, warm baking spices, vanilla, Asian pear, and green peppercorns. On the palate, it continues to dazzle, invoking artichokes, fresh basil, tomatoes, and fennel. Presents just the right amounts of bitterness (walnut skins), spiciness (arugula), and bright notes (lime zest). With a peppery pinch, it bids you a lingering farewell, leaving you longing for another taste.
Exceptionally food friendly, this oil generated a tsunami of pairing suggestions from my tasters: scrambled eggs; granola; pizza and tomato-based pastas or salads; vinaigrettes; bruschetta; charcuterie platters; fresh or mild cheeses; yogurt; sweet potatoes (any potato, really); mild fin fish and shellfish; starches like rice, couscous, and bread; turkey and chicken; quick breads; and vanilla ice cream.
With Zoom meetings behind us, I eagerly anticipated my reunion with Oasis owners John and Marjan Symington. I really missed being with them over the last two years, so it was especially exciting for me to be the “boots on the ground” at their expansive—and expanding—farm this year.
With Melissa Wong behind the wheel, my Merry Band of Tasters traversed the 117 miles north from bustling Melbourne to rural Kialla, population sub-7000. The area is the country’s sweet spot for olives with its warm summers, just enough rain, and (usually) mild winters. But when the Symingtons first bought their farm 12 years ago, I don’t think even they could have envisioned the amazing success that lay ahead. At the time, the property was somewhat ramshackle, the groves were a tangle of unkempt trees, and whatever irrigation system had been in place was in disarray.
The small Oasis team brought the trees back to stellar condition with strategic pruning and better irrigation. As longstanding Club members know, it took a mere two years for them to start winning accolades and coveted awards, with the most recent being Grand Prestige Gold at the 2022 Mediterranean International Olive Oil competition held in Jerusalem.
In the field, John and I discussed what made this year’s Coratina olives so special—the longer-than-usual magic window for harvesting. Because the olives developed more slowly, John could be even more meticulous during both harvesting and pressing. John and Marjan are dear friends to a lot of people in the olive oil industry, sharing their knowledge, including the technical side surrounding the best machinery. After all, picking the olives is just the first step—you then have to know how to turn them into liquid gold.
Still, John, whose first career was in IT with its very predictable outcomes, will tell you his second career is far more challenging and also far more emotionally rewarding. You may do everything right, but Mother Nature could still have other plans for you! This year’s harvest, however, presented a happy surprise: The usually very short “magic window” for harvesting was rather long, allowing more time to be meticulous.
The Coratina stayed incredibly green throughout the harvest period, and I loved it so much that the Club selection I proudly present to you is a single varietal: 100 percent Coratina extra virgin olive oil. I asked John whether its extraordinary quality could be attributed to this year’s ideal weather or to his latest equipment upgrade, a new Amenduni mill from Italy. This is one of the most well-respected brands of milling equipment, yet the purchase came with some drama of its own—it had to be shipped in separate cargo containers, the second of which arrived with barely enough time to assemble and test it before the harvest!
“This season was certainly easier for quality than last year, as with colder temperatures, most of the olives stayed green right through to the end of the season,” John said. This was in contrast to last year, when the team had to struggle to keep up with extraordinarily rapid ripening. “The greener harvest was probably something of a reversion to more normal conditions we have had most years on the grove, though with climate change, who knows what ‘normal’ will be in the future?,” John mused.
Never content to sit back and relax, John and Marjan recently purchased the neighboring property. Like their first acquisition, it was in need of a lot of TLC. “The Picual, Leccino, and Arbequina responded well to the care, and we’ll get a reasonable crop next year,” John predicts. He’s adding more Hojiblanca, a Spanish varietal. “My favorite blend is Coratina, Frantoio, and Hojiblanca—we will be able to do that in the future,” said John. He’s also excited about adding another variety to the grove, Del Morocco, renowned for the quality of the fruit it bears. “The oil is really, really good, so I planted it here,” he told me. Stay tuned!
As we drove around the new section in John’s white Land Rover, I felt like we were on safari. I expected to see their flock of sheep—the farm’s 500 “workers” that prune the grass between the olive trees—but not the mobs of kangaroo, as large groups of the animals are called. More exotic still are the echidnas, also known as spiny anteaters—hedgehog lookalikes, but a totally different species of mammal that lays eggs.
Another unusual sight are massive dead trees that look like fantastic sculptures dotting the landscape. Australia doesn’t allow them to be removed because they create nesting places for birds. One was filled with crows, giving it a very stark, almost Hitchcock-esque appearance!
I continue to admire John and Marjan’s quest for perfection and appreciate that they always ask me to send them the trio of oils from the Club’s other quarterly selections. This gives them context and enables them to appreciate what other growers around the world are able to achieve.
With glasses of Australian Shiraz in hand, John, Marjan, and I made a toast of gratitude and appreciation to you, Club members, for whom we pursue our passion—creating the ultimate olive oils. Our lunch reflected the Italian contingent Down Under: antipasto, bruschetta, calamari, and classic panzanella with bread, tomatoes, and onions, dressed in just-pressed olive oil. Like John, Marjan has immersed herself in the world of olive oil for more than a decade and graciously shares her knowledge as president of the Goulburn Strathbogie Olive Oil Association and as a designated associate of the international organization, Extra Virgin Olive Oil Savantes.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
You’ll love this beautiful oil pressed from Coratina olives. The nose is intoxicating. Expect hints of artichoke, green almond, green banana, wheatgrass, lime zest, fresh mint, thyme, and parsley. Take a sip. Notice the appealing bitterness of radicchio and celery leaves, baby spinach, hazelnuts, and the bright, citrusy zest of grapefruit. The finish, reminiscent of Sichuan peppercorns, is pleasantly long, with the astringency of green tea.
Pair this intriguing oil with hummus and other bean-centric dishes; fried eggs; artichokes; pesto; salads made of fall fruits and sturdy greens, such as pears, kale, and blue cheese; avocado toast; roasted root vegetables; risotto; “steak fish” like tuna, salmon, and swordfish; pork, veal, and beef; aged cheeses (plus goat cheese); dark chocolate; brownies; and peasant breads.
This Quarter’s Third Selection
Producer: Kyneton Olive Oil, Bylands Estate, Central Victoria, 2022
Olive Varieties: Frantoio, Correggiola, Coratina
Flavor Profile: Bold
“Making olive oil is not just about how much love and care you put into that fruit juice at pressing, but also about how much love and care you give to the trees all year long,” said Mick Labbozzetta, the general manager of Kyneton. Just an hour north of Melbourne, Kyneton has a storied history and expansive grove—I love combining their many varietals to create bold Australian olive oils for you.
I’ve worked with Mick and his team for a half-dozen years now, since his extended Calabrian-Sicilian-Australian family, notably his daughter Melissa and son-in-law Robert Inturrisi, acquired the Kyneton name and assets from the Trovatello family. (Longstanding Club members will remember how delightful their oils were, too, when I worked with them.)
I love Kyneton’s philosophy: “Australian made, Italian heritage.” That’s also a way of life in this area because the region has attracted a large number of Italian immigrants. Being here is like taking a mini field trip to Italy! There are so many producers of delicious Italian specialties—olive oil, cheeses, salumi, to name just three—and they thrive in part because of the vibrant Italian-Australian community.
Mick shared a wonderful example of unity from last year. Kyneton partnered with the award-winning That’s Amore Cheese to celebrate the olio nuovo, the first-pressed extra virgin olive oil harvested at the start of a season. The event included many food producers showcasing their products, making it a wonderful culinary celebration. Besides watching a live olive oil pressing (Kyneton set up a small mill!) and learning about extra virgin olive oil, attendees were able to bid on a charity auction of the first 20 liters of the olio nuovo. Mick was so proud that all the proceeds were donated to the Olivia Newton-John Cancer Wellness & Research Centre, prescient considered the Australian superstar’s passing this summer.
The farm’s secret weapon is the Italian master miller Davide Bruno, who travels from Liguria to work the harvest and stays afterward to set up the grove for the following year. Davide has a foot in each hemisphere, drawing on both Old World and New World methods and techniques. While he honors his Italian roots, he also believes in taking beneficial modern approaches. These include monitoring the olives at every stage of development, responding to the trees’ needs, and investing in farm-owned harvest and milling equipment, thereby minimizing the time between picking and pressing. He’s also been blessed with a unique sensibility that enables him to determine the optimum time for harvesting—for you, my dear Club members, that translates to maximizing flavor and health-promoting polyphenols.
In the field with Davide (center) and Carmelo, I want to celebrate the entire team of people who make it possible to create some of the finest olive oils in the world and share them with you. Carmelo handles the groves all year long while Davide focuses on the pressing and getting trees ready for the following year during his annual three-month sojourn from Italy. Behind us are lush palm trees and a dam—the ace up their sleeve that they can tap into when the weather is too dry.
I’m always mesmerized as I watch Davide at work. He continually follows each batch of olives through processing and rarely leaves the mill—when he does, it’s with a timer in hand so that he’ll never be away for more than precisely two minutes! At his side is Carmelo Tramontana, an Italian ex-pat from Calabria who has lived in Australia for a decade. By Carmelo’s calculations, this year’s harvest was twice the volume of last year’s, a season plagued by heavy rains—even trying to get the harvester through the grove had been a monumental challenge, as it kept getting stuck and required the farm’s excavator to pull it out. This year, there was “Goldilocks” rain—not too much and not too little. Kyneton’s harvest season lasted two and a half months, each day a labor-intensive 6 am to 8 pm (or as late as 10 pm), seven days a week. “You push and you push,” said Carmelo, because the time is finite.
It helps that there’s a decided method to counter the madness of an olive harvest, with the careful planning of varietals that are picked in succession. For instance, Frantoio and Correggiola, which form the essence of my bold selection for you, are pressed first. Then the team moves on to Coratina, whose vibrant green flavor added the perfect boldness to my blend. It was a reminder of the fact that many people still haven’t had the opportunity to experience the zest of an early-harvest fresh-pressed green oil or enjoy its powerful polyphenols. Know that I will continue to tantalize your taste buds with the most extraordinary extra virgin olive oils as I travel around the world with my Merry Band of Tasters!
A favorite part of every trip to Kyneton is sampling the delights at local restaurants and food shops. Each year, Mick loves to take me to a different friend’s establishment, and I love listening to him converse with the locals in Italian—here we are with his friend Francesco Gatto. This trip, the Umberto Espresso Bar made an indelible impression on my taste buds. I savored the breakfast sandwich of bacon and eggs on a perfectly crusty roll with tomato relish and fresh olive oil, and Umberto’s oversized almond croissant was a wonderful taste of France!
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
My tasters and I were blown away by this powerful Tuscan-style blend. On the nose, it’s green, grassy, and fruity. You’ll be reminded of arugula, endive, wild mint, and fresh chopped culinary herbs. There’s an undercurrent of nuttiness, too. Like walnuts. On the palate, it’s dynamite. Bold, but well-calibrated. This is what emerald green tastes like. Descriptors include artichoke, Swiss chard, walnuts and almonds, escarole, spearmint, and spicy green peppercorns. The finish is long.
Distinctly bold, this oil complements grilled, braised, and roasted meats like lamb, beef, and veal; roasted vegetables, like brussels sprouts and squash; fried peppers and eggs; focaccia; cold-weather soups and stews like cioppino and minestrone; Asian dishes; salads featuring bitter greens; and dark chocolate desserts.
Young men with a poor diet saw a significant improvement in their symptoms of depression when they switched to a healthy Mediterranean diet, a new study shows.
Depression is a widespread mental health issue that affects roughly 300 million people globally each year. It is a substantial risk factor for suicide, the largest cause of mortality among young people. The 12-week randomized controlled trial, conducted by experts from the University of Technology Sydney, was recently published in the peer-reviewed American Journal of Clinical Nutrition.
According to lead researcher Jessica Bayes, a Ph.D. candidate at the UTS Faculty of Health, the study was the first randomized clinical trial to examine the influence of a Mediterranean diet on depressive symptoms in young males (aged 18 to 25).
“We were surprised by how willing the young men were to take on a new diet,” Bayes said. “Those assigned to the Mediterranean diet were able to significantly change their original diets, under the guidance of a nutritionist, over a short time frame.”
“It suggests that medical doctors and psychologists should consider referring depressed young men to a nutritionist or dietitian as an important component of treating clinical depression,” she said.
The link between food and mood
The research contributes to the emerging subject of nutritional psychiatry, which seeks to investigate the impact of particular nutrients, foods, and dietary patterns on mental health. The study’s diet was rich in colorful vegetables, legumes, and whole grains, as well as oily fish, olive oil, and raw, unsalted nuts.
“The primary focus was on increasing diet quality with fresh whole foods while reducing the intake of ‘fast’ foods, sugar, and processed red meat,” Bayes said. “There are lots of reasons why scientifically we think food affects mood. For example, around 90 percent of serotonin, a chemical that helps us feel happy, is made in our gut by our gut microbes. There is emerging evidence that these microbes can communicate to the brain via the vagus nerve, in what is called the gut-brain axis.”
“To have beneficial microbes, we need to feed them fiber, which is found in legumes, fruits, and vegetables,” she said.
Roughly 30 percent of depressed patients fail to adequately respond to standard treatments for major depressive disorder such as cognitive behavioral therapy and antidepressant medications. “Nearly all our participants stayed with the program, and many were keen to continue the diet once the study ended, which shows how effective, tolerable, and worthwhile they found the intervention,” Bayes concluded.
Reference: Bayes J, Schloss J, Sibbritt D. The effect of a Mediterranean diet on the symptoms of depression in young males (the AMMEND study): a randomized controlled trial. Am J Clin Nutr. 2022;116(2): 572-580. doi:10.1093/ajcn/nqac106
Kudos from Club Members
Absolutely love it. Never tasted anything so good. Even the food cooked with it tastes better than it used to.
Betty M.Wichita, KS
You, and the Band Of Merry Tasters, have spoiled me on olive oil FOREVER! I can no longer stomach the bulk cans I used to buy. I take spoonfuls of straight oil as a treat! It is so healthy and delicious, I go through my order in a fraction of the time before the next installment. You have ruined me! While I prefer the stronger varieties, the milder ones are still better than anything I’ve had before. Like fresh maple syrup, fresh olive oil nourishes the whole being. Many thanks (you rascal!)
Tim F.Surry, ME
I just had a tasting session of the new olive oils with my daughter. We were so thoroughly and utterly delighted by the oils—I compared them with the two bottles I had bought at a very upscale restaurant here that specializes in olive oil—no comparison. I have never ever tasted olive oils as fabulous as the ones you send. So fresh! Grassy! Alive! Full of nuances of flavors! I am so so so happy I joined! Love you!
Miriyam G.Los Angeles, CA
In the last few days, I have eaten more bread with this Finca Galvez and my fresh herbs than I’ve had in the last 10 years…this stuff is amazing!! Apparently I just didn’t know what the good stuff actually tastes like! I’m in love now. Thanks.
Kathy M.Charlotte, NC
I simply LOVE LOVE LOVE these shipments. I have a collection of recipes (mostly Italian) that use olive oil…and HANDS-DOWN, these oils have elevated them beyond comparison. This week: I oven-roasted a variety of grape/small tomatoes and smashed garlic cloves. Broke the tomatoes up with extra olive oil, and served it on ciabatta bread. I will use the leftover emulsion in pasta later this week.
And the vinegars are divine as well. Thank you, T. J. and olive oil connoisseurs, for your expertise and delivery of these fantastic EVOOs.
Kim S.Macungie, PA
The oil arrived yesterday and I opened it and used it on my salad. Words cannot describe. I am delighted and look forward to receiving more oil in the future. Thank you for sourcing this out and making it available.
pssst—since no one else was around, I even licked my plate clean—yummy!
Joy C.Salem, OR
Fantastic oils! Just writing to say how much I’m learning and enjoying the recipes and tasting of all of the oils. The Italian oils are amazing! My husband and I look forward to buying fresh sourdough bread and tasting our oils when they come. I’m trying the Pumpkin Risotto…and I have a few others highlighted as well. We just love the stories about the people who produce the oils and the adventures that come from procuring these for your Club members. This has been a really fun club to belong to.
Julie D.Eagle, WI
Hi Folks: There was a Facebook post asking if you could have fresh pressed olive oil only one way, what would it be? I have to say in a tablespoon straight from the bottle. This is still my favorite way to enjoy our oil. Also, I was concerned about the quality during the travel restrictions due to TJ, et al, being “here” and not “there.” However, when I read about the oils, I realized that Duccio Morozzo, Paco Vaño, and others are really our friends and care just as much about making our oils special. I favour the stronger oils, but the selections this year have been superb, and I feel like part of a larger family and I trust our friends overseas. It’s a great feeling.
Tim F.Surry, ME
Thank you, TJ,
I have been a lucky club member for several years. I feel so fortunate to receive these wonderful oils. I live in a geographically remote location (the middle of the Pacific) so I very much appreciate the freshness and expedient delivery of the olive oils.
My all-time favorite so far has been the single-variety Cobrançosa from Casa de Santo Amaro in Portugal. I love the Picuals! Finca Galvez from Spain. Picual by Alajandro Sanz of Spain. I also loved Petralia from TerraMater in Chile. This new Australian Picual by Leandro Ravetti was the first bottle I opened, and it is added to my favorite list.
You have ignited my passion for olive oils. I look forward to the quarterly selections, your adventures, and the recipes. I have been researching, preparing my small section in Paradise for a few olive trees.
Trish M.Makawao, HI
LOVE being a member. Buying for 4 years now. There’s nothing like these Olive Oils. DELICIOUS!
Candy C.Fort Smith, AR
Recipes
Ma’amoul (Date-Filled Cookies)These buttery date-filled cookies featuring olive oil hail from the Middle East—potentially from ancient Egypt—and are an unexpected addition to holiday cookie trays. Ingredients 1/3 cup roasted, salted pistachio nuts, chopped 1/3 cup pitted whole dates, chopped 1/4 cup apricot spreadable fruit preserves or jam 1/2 teaspoon orange zest 1 cup white whole wheat flour… view recipe
Baby Bok ChoyLooking for a simple side dish for an Asian-influenced meal? We love baby bok choy. You could substitute rapini or broccoli florets if baby bok choy isn’t available. Ingredients 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 1 pound baby bok choy, stalks separated, washed and spun dry 1/4 cup fresh orange juice 2 tablespoons natural rice… view recipe
Baked Salmon with Basil and GarlicA quick romp in an olive oil-based marinade for as little as 30 minutes, a brief stint in a hot oven, and dinner is served! If desired, serve with the Braised Fennel and Lentils. Rice or couscous work well with the salmon, too. Ingredients 1 1/2 pounds salmon fillets, skin off Coarse salt (kosher or… view recipe
Zucchini BologneseNo, it’s not a typo. You really do cook zucchini for 4 hours for one of the most unctuous iterations of this vegetable we’ve ever encountered. The foodie website “delish” claims Meghan Markle shared this pasta dish with them before she married into the Royal family. Regardless, we were impressed when we made it for… view recipe
Pork Schnitzel with GiardinieraDuck into almost any pub in Australia, and you’ll find schnitzel on the menu—chicken, beef, or pork. “Schnittys,” though nicked from European immigrants, are now one of Oz’s iconic foods. Giardiniera is a versatile Italian condiment that can be used as an antipasto or on eggs, sandwiches (a must-have on Italian beef), and even hot… view recipe
Greek Lamb Chops (Paidakia)Melbourne, a sister city to Thessaloniki, is home to one of the largest Greek populations outside of Greece and Cyprus. It’s no wonder, then, that the local cuisine thrums with Hellenic influences. Ingredients 8 large lamb rib chops 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for searing and serving 6 cloves garlic, crushed with… view recipe
Prawn Tacos with Asian SlawNagi Maehashi is one of Australia’s most popular food bloggers. We were inspired by her recipe for tacos made with prawns, and paired them with one of our favorite Asian cabbage slaws featuring extra virgin olive oil. Ingredients For the prawns: 1 pound large prawns or shrimp, peeled (tails, too) Zest and juice of 1… view recipe
Roasted Cauliflower SoupSilky and rich-tasting (though it contains no cream), this is one of our favorite fall soups. Ingredients 1 large head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), cut into bite-size florets 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for garnish Fine sea salt 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced1 quart… view recipe
Chicken Souvlaki with TzatzikiMy wife, Meghan, and I often order souvlaki (both chicken and lamb) during our stays in Oz. We present it as an appetizer here, but it can easily become a main course—especially when served with a Greek salad and pita. Ingredients For the chicken and marinade: 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 2 cloves garlic,… view recipe
Turkish Shepherd’s Salad (Çoban Salatasi)If you find dicing vegetables and chopping herbs relaxing, you’ll enjoy making this healthful salad. It makes a great accompaniment to grilled meats. Find sumac and Aleppo pepper online or at well-stocked spice stores. Ingredients 1 pound ripe tomatoes, cored and diced 1 European (English) or 4 Persian cucumbers, diced 1 green or red pepper,… view recipe
Grilled Pear Salad with Greens and Port Vinaigrette
Peruvian Purple Potato Salad
