Vinaigre de Banyuls Red Wine & Olive Oil Vinaigrette and Easy Chimichurri Aioli Recipes, Spotlight on Red Wine Vinegar and My Two Favorite Ways to Cook with Red Wine Vinegar

Vinegar Essentials, Part III: Red Wine Vinegar

From the moment I introduced my Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils, I was asked about the right vinegar to pair them with. I believe in having a full collection of vinegars, from sweet to tart, because this enables you to match the right one to a recipe. One of my favorites is red wine vinegar, and vinaigrette is just the tip of the culinary iceberg when it comes to dishes that it will enhance. To show you what I mean, I’m sharing two very different recipes along with red wine vinegar’s intriguing history.

Red Wine & Olive Oil Vinaigrette

• Red Wine Vinaigrette

  Simple and superb! This sweet and tangy sauce is great on ribs as well as roast chicken—and it makes a terrific topping for your favorite style of burger!

  Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, such as Vinaigre de Banyuls
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • 1/8 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
  • 1/2 small garlic clove, peeled and minced  
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste

  Directions

  Step 1

  In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, honey, the 1/8 teaspoon of salt, and garlic.

  Step 2

  Gradually whisk in the olive oil until the dressing is emulsified. Season to taste with black pepper and more salt.

  Yields about 1/3 cup

Easy Chimichurri Aioli

• Chimichurri Aioli

  This olive-oil based recipe turns chimichurri into an aioli, a highly flavored, garlicky mayonnaise. It’s great as a veggie dip, a condiment, and even a dressing for cold pasta salad.

  Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup best quality prepared mayonnaise
  • 1 clove garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves
  • 2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
  • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, such as Vinaigre de Banyuls, plus more to taste 
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano 
  • 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 
  • 1/4 teaspoon coarse salt, or more to taste
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 

  Directions

  Step 1

  Combine everything except the olive oil in the bowl of a food processor and process until the garlic and herbs are finely chopped. 

  Step 2

  With the motor running, slowly drizzle the oil through the feed tube until the mixture is smooth. 

  Step 3

  Taste, adding more vinegar or salt as needed. If the mixture is too thick, add a few drops of water and process for a few seconds. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. 

  Yields about a 1/2 cup 

Spotlight on Red Wine Vinegar

The finest vinegar comes from the finest grapes

The history of red wine vinegar dates back to Roman times, but it was arguably the French who made it a culinary staple when, as legend has it, wine abandoned in the area of Orléans turned to vinegar on its own. The city became the de facto vinegar capital of France, and the Orléans method of barrel-aging was adopted around the world. But the story did not stop there.

Travel about 475 miles south to Banyuls-sur-Mer, one the western side of the Mediterranean, the birthplace of spectacular red wines and of the spectacular red wine vinegar called Vinaigre de Banyuls. This is where the Pyrénées mountain range meets the sea, where groves are planted in terraces on slopes, going from the seaside inland to the base of valleys. This approach maximizes what little rain the region gets. Even more awe-inspiring, these vineyards have existed for more than 2,600 years, from the time of the Phoenicians. Over the course of centuries, the Greeks, the Celts, and the Romans added their knowhow to the way the grapes were cultivated, passing down their secrets from generation to generation. In the 13th century, the Knights Templar arrived and introduced outdoor barrel aging to the wine-making process to impart even greater aromatic richness. It’s the combination of long aging outdoors and then indoors that helps give character to Banyuls wines and, in turn, to their vinegars. 

Similar to the Italian designation accorded to Modena, this region has been granted the French certification of appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) or controlled designation of origin. Growers must follow set standards designed to ensure their grapes will have certain unique characteristics based on terroir, the French term that comes from the word terre, or land. It’s used to describe the impact on a crop—most often grapes—of the climate and temperature, the soil and topography, other environmental conditions, and farming techniques. For wine in general, these elements all greatly, and often uniquely, impact aroma and flavor. For Banyuls in particular, both the wine and the vinegar made from it, the terroir imparts a distinctive sweetness. 

To create the Vinaigre de Banyuls included in my new vinegar collection, naturally sweet Banyuls wine is first slowly aged under the hot Mediterranean sun for three years in barrels the French call demi-muids. Then comes the acetification process—when the mother is added to the wine to turn it into vinegar. The resulting vinegar is then aged for two more years in small French oak barrels in the vinegar cellar to achieve its perfect aromatic palette. 

Food Pairings

Enjoying red wine vinegar

Red wine vinegar enhances seasonal mixed greens and salads with fruits or with Roquefort and other blue cheeses; warm potato salad; grilled vegetables; cooked greens like kale; and assorted melons. Use it in a vinaigrette to dress antipasto to balance the fattiness of the meats, salade Niçoise, and a Lyonnaise-inspired salad with lardons, frisée, and eggs. It also brightens braises and stews, and is great for quick pickled onions or other vegetables. 

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

Versatile vinegar

Vinegar is exceptional in so much more than salads. Here are two of my favorite ways to cook with red wine vinegar:

Deglazing. Use vinegar instead of (or even in addition to) wine to deglaze a pan and turn the fond—those dark, flavorful bits that collect on the bottom—into a rich and quick sauce.

Marinating. Because vinegar is acidic, it helps break down and tenderize protein fibers for juicier grilled meat.

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Sweet and Spicy Brussels Sprouts and Roasted Cinnamon Sweet Potato Recipes, Spotlight on Purple Potatoes and Sweet Spices for Savory Dishes

Thanksgiving sides really make the meal. I love tasting a little bit of this and a little bit of that, filling my plate with as many different foods as it will hold. When I’m doing the cooking, I like to go bold, as you’ll see from my twists on Brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes. They’ll become favorites at your gatherings, as they are at mine! I’m also sharing some food for thought on exercise—great fuel for your dinner table conversation. 

Sweet and Spicy Brussels Sprouts

• Sweet and Spicy Brussels Sprouts

  This variation on Kung Pao sauce has a surprising kick. 

  Ingredients

  • 1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon each sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 3–4 tablespoons chili garlic sauce, depending on your preference
  • 4 tablespoons rice wine
  • 4 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 6 tablespoons brown sugar
  • ½ cup unsalted, roasted peanuts

  Directions

  Step 1

  Preheat your oven to 425°F. Place the Brussels sprouts on a rimmed baking sheet, toss with the olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast, turning once, until tender and lightly browned on the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. 

  Step 2

  While the Brussels sprouts are roasting, prepare the sauce. In a medium saucepan, stir together the chili garlic sauce, rice wine, soy sauce, and brown sugar and heat through.

  Step 3

  When the Brussels sprouts are cooked, transfer them to a large bowl, toss with the sauce, and top with the peanuts.

  Yields 4-6 servings

Roasted Cinnamon Sweets

• Roasted Cinnamon Sweet Potatoes

  Skip the “fluff” and let the potatoes be the star of this dish—they turn crispy outside while staying creamy inside.

  Ingredients

  • 8 unpeeled sweet potatoes, about 3 pounds, cut into small cubes
  • ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 
  • ¼ cup honey
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Pinch of salt

  Directions

  Step 1

  Preheat your oven to 425°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Place the potatoes on the parchment and toss with the rest of the ingredients. 

  Step 2

  Spread them out into a single layer and roast until the centers are tender when pierced with the tip of a knife, about 40 minutes, depending on your oven. 

  Step 3

  Flip them over once at the midway point.

  Yields 6-8 servings

Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

The Power of Purple

Ready to really shake things up this Thanksgiving? Try exotic purple sweet potatoes, now readily available at many markets. Murasaki sweet potatoes, also known as Japanese sweet potatoes, are dark purple on the outside with white flesh. Hawaiian sweet potatoes, also known as Okinawan, are the reverse with a whitish peel and purple interior. Charleston purple yams are also an intense purple inside, with a light-brown peel. Besides serving up great taste, these potatoes are chock-full of healthful antioxidants, the source of their deep pigmentation.

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

Spice So Nice

Sweet spices like cinnamon, nutmeg, and allspice can add great flavor to savory dishes and allow you to cut down on sugar, so don’t save them for your pumpkin spice lattes! While you already know that a Microplane is great for grating nutmeg, it also works on stick cinnamon, creating light shavings rather than a powder. 

For Your Best Health

The Truth About Nondairy Milks

“Plant-based milk alternatives have been growing in popularity, but there’s not a lot known about the mineral content of these products, especially in the US,” says Ben Redan, PhD, research chemist at the FDA and principal investigator of a research project that analyzed dozens of milk alternatives for their mineral content. “Although they can be voluntarily declared, from a regulatory perspective, these minerals are not always required to be on the Nutrition Facts label.” 

Dr. Redan did the study with Lauren Jackson, PhD, his colleague at the Institute for Food Safety and Health, a research consortium that includes the Illinois Institute of Technology, the FDA and the food industry. They decided to measure the amount of four essential minerals—magnesium, phosphorus, zinc, and selenium—in plant-based milk alternatives. “Essential” means that the body can’t make them on its own, and we must get them from our diet. All four are found in dairy milk, so it’s important to know if you’re missing out when making the switch to nondairy alternatives. 

Drs. Redan and Jackson analyzed 85 plant-based beverages in all, each made from a single base ingredient such as almond, cashew, coconut, hemp, oat, pea, rice, or soy. Using a technique called inductively coupled-mass spectrometry to quantify the minerals along with statistical analyses, they found that mineral content varied significantly across different product types and between brands of the same type of product. Only pea- and soy-based drinks had higher levels of the four essential minerals than cow’s milk, with pea-based drinks containing about 50% more phosphorus, zinc, and selenium. On average, the soy drinks had the highest amounts of magnesium. 

“These plant-based milk alternatives could be important sources of these micronutrients if you’re trying to reach the recommended dietary allowances for them,” Dr. Redan says. “That’s why these data points are important to get out to the public.” The findings were presented at the fall meeting of the American Chemical Society.  

Fitness Flash

The Value of Variety

New findings on leisure-time activities from the NIH-AARP Diet and Health Study underscore the importance of engaging in activities that you enjoy and will stick with. The study, led by researchers at the National Cancer Institute, looked at questionnaires filled out by 272,550 adults between the ages of 59 and 82 to determine whether participating in equivalent amounts of seven different exercise and recreational activities—running, cycling, swimming, other aerobic exercise, racquet sports, golf, and walking for exercise—was associated with a lowered risk of death.

They found that achieving the recommended amount of physical activity per week—2.5 to 5 hours at moderate intensity or 1.25 to 2.5 hours at vigorous intensity—through any combination of these activities was associated with a 13 percent lower risk of death from any cause compared to not participating in any of the activities studied. When they looked at the role of each activity individually, playing racquet sports was associated with a 16 percent reduction in risk and running with a 15 percent reduction. However, all the activities were linked with lower risks of death. Even people who did some recreational activity, though less than the recommended amount, had a 5 percent reduction in risk of death than those who did not participate in any of them at all.

In terms of a lower risk of death from cardiovascular disease, playing racquet sports was associated with the greatest reduction at 27 percent, while running was associated with the greatest reduction in risk of cancer death at 19 percent. The findings were published in JAMA Network Open.

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Classic Balsamic Vinaigrette and Filet Mignon Alla Modena Recipes, Spotlight on Balsamic Vinegars and How to Maximize Taste When Making Salads

Vinegar Essentials, Part II: Balsamic Vinegar

Balsamic reigns supreme in the world of vinegar, but there are many imposters. Seeing the word balsamic on the label isn’t a guarantee about what’s inside. Here’s what you need to know. I’m also sharing two of my favorite recipes. In addition to being delicious, they show the wide range of dishes that balsamic vinegars can enhance. 

Classic Balsamic Vinaigrette

• Balsamic Vinaigrette

  This vinaigrette must be in your repertoire. It can also be made in a blender or food processor: Pulse all ingredients except the olive oil for a few seconds (the machine can mince the garlic for you), and then, with the machine still running, slowly add the olive oil through the opening in the lid/top until the mixture is blended. (You’ll find that a vinaigrette with honey will quickly emulsify and create a thick dressing.) For deeper flavor, add more vinegar, one teaspoon at a time.

  Ingredients

  • 1 teaspoon honey
  • 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, such as Barili Exclusivi Condimento
  • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
  • 1/8 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon finely ground black pepper 
  • 1 small garlic clove, peeled and minced
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

  Directions

  Step 1

  In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the honey, balsamic vinegar, mustard, salt, pepper, and garlic.

  Step 2

  Add the oil and whisk continuously until the dressing is emulsified.

  Yields a scant 1/2 cup

Filet Mignon Alla Modena

• Filet Mignon Alla Modena

  This recipe is inspired by the beef dish served at Ristorante Cavallino in Modena, Italy.

  Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons all-purpose or white whole-wheat flour
  • 1/2 teaspoon each fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 4 6-ounce filet mignon steaks, about 1-1/2 inches thick 
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, such as 15 Barili or Barili Exclusivi Condimento
  • 1/2 cup beef stock 

  Directions

  Step 1

  Combine the flour, salt, and pepper in a pie plate. Heat a cast-iron skillet or other heavy pan large enough to hold the steaks, and then add the olive oil. Once the oil shimmers, dredge both sides of each steak in the flour mixture, shake off any excess, and add to the pan. Sauté for about 4 minutes, and then flip to cook the other side, about 4 minutes more for rare.

  Step 2

  When the steaks are done to your liking, transfer them to four dinner plates. Deglaze the pan with the balsamic, and then add the stock. Reduce the liquid to a thick sauce.

  Step 3

  Spoon equal amounts over each steak and serve.

  Yields 4 servings.

Spotlight on Balsamic Vinegar

How to read between the lines on labels

The condimento aceto balsamico in my inaugural vinegar collection was a tremendous hit, but I knew I wanted to push the envelope even further in terms of flavor, so I worked hand in hand with the experts at Acetomodena in Modena, Italy. One of the most important points I want to share with you is the difference between select types of balsamic.

The pinnacle of balsamic vinegar is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP (denominazione di origine protetta or protected origin denomination), which can take generations to make and is wildly expensive. That’s because it’s crafted exclusively from cooked grape must—all parts of the grapes are used—and aged for a minimum of 12 years and sometimes 25 years or even longer. A few ounces cost well over a hundred dollars, so it’s not used for cooking or making vinaigrettes but for drizzling sparingly on foods as a finishing touch. 

The next category is Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP (indicazione geografica protetta or protected geographical indication). It must be made from grape must and wine vinegar and aged in wooden barrels for at least two months. That sounds straightforward, but there are huge variations in its production. Acetomodena’s IGP is made artisanally, aged in barrels with a maximum volume of 300 liters (about 80 gallons) for as long as three years, which allows it to get sweeter and more harmonious as it achieves the perfect ratio of density to acidity. Mass producers tend to use only the minimum amount of grape must and giant 40,000- to 50,000-liter barrels (10,000-plus gallons) for aging, resulting in a product that lacks the quality and taste of a finely crafted vinegar. 

I’m so excited about my new selection, a special reserve condiment reminiscent of a fine DOP that’s both affordable and approachable called Barili Exclusivi Condimento all“Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP.” The “condiment” designation allows producers more freedom to craft a vinegar that goes beyond strict IGP requirements (there are two important consortiums in Modena to make sure certain rules are adhered to for every type of vinegar). Tasting the different balsamic vinegars in Acetomodena’s two cellars, one reserved for DOP and the other for IGP, I was able to compare and contrast, to see how condimento is akin to the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, assimilating its characteristics in a shorter amount of time. 

My Barili Exclusivi Condimento is the perfect balance of acidity, sweetness from grape must, and woodiness from the barrel aging. I liken it to when vintners create a cuvée, blending wines from various barrels to create a finished product that is greater than the sum of the parts. The ultimate quality of the balsamic depends on the skill of the producer, including knowing what wood to pick for what period of aging. Mine was aged in small cherry wood barrels that impart a sweetness and allow for more contact surface with the vinegar during the last two years of aging than would larger barrels. 

Food Pairings

Enjoying Balsamic Vinegar

Because the finest balsamic is rich and sweet, just a few drops will enhance just about every food, from a risotto to a charcuterie plate to berries and ice cream. Pair it with your extra virgin olive oils to dress mature or fresh cheeses, from Parmigiano-Reggiano to fresh mozzarella. Drizzle it over cured meats like prosciutto, speck, and salami as well as cooked salumi, such as mortadella; tomatoes with a sprinkling of Maldon salt; composed salads with cheeses and fruits; cooked vegetables, fish, beef, lamb, and egg dishes; strawberries or pineapple “carpaccio” over vanilla ice cream; flourless chocolate cake and banana or zucchini quick breads; and on French toast along with butter and berries. It can withstand some heat, but use it judiciously in cooking—add it at the very end of a recipe such as a risotto, then top each serving with a few more drops. 

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

The best-dressed salad

To maximize taste when making salads, prep your greens by rinsing and drying them in a salad spinner—dressing coats them better when they’re dry, and it won’t be diluted by water clinging to the leaves. Rather than simply pouring vinaigrette over your salad, mix it in with two forks or tongs. Also, keep in mind that vinaigrettes aren’t just for salads; drizzle them over roasted vegetables and cold meats and use them in place of mayonnaise as a sandwich spread. Vinaigrette will keep for up to a week in the fridge—just shake well or whisk as needed before using it.

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