Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club

Olive Oil Hunter News #177

Cold Avocado and Cucumber Soup Recipe and The Mediterranean Diet for Longevity

Members of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club are well aware of the benefits of extra virgin olive oil as part of the world-famous Mediterranean diet. Dozens of studies have assessed its health effects and its link to longevity, most commonly attributed to its improving heart health. But how the Mediterranean diet works its magic hasn’t been thoroughly understood. Investigators from Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston recently published the results of a long-term study that helps unravel this mystery. I’m thrilled to share their findings. And to start, here’s a recipe that highlights the plant-based approach that underscores the Mediterranean way of living. 

Cold Avocado and Cucumber Soup

  • Cold cucumber avocado soup Cold Avocado and Cucumber Soup

    There’s nothing more refreshing than a chilled soup for lunch or dinner during the dog days of summer, especially when there’s no cooking needed. I like to add a different kind of heat with a fresh hot pepper, but you can omit it if you aren’t a fan!

    Ingredients

    • 2 pounds cucumbers, about 2-3 large ones
    • 1 small jalapeño, halved and seeded, optional
    • 2 ripe Hass avocados
    • 2 cups plain nonfat Greek yogurt or skyr
    • 3 large scallions, trimmed
    • 3 garlic cloves, peeled 
    • 1 cup packed of fresh parsley, dill, and chives 
    • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 
    • 1/2 cup water, more as needed
    • 1 tablespoon sherry or red wine, more to taste
    • Coarse sea salt, to taste
    • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    • Optional garnishes: thin slices of avocado, a dollop of yogurt or skyr, more fresh herbs

    Directions

    Halve the cucumbers lengthwise and use a large spoon to scoop out and discard most of the seeds; leave on the peel. Cut the cucumbers into chunks for easier puréeing. If using the pepper, halve it, scoop out the seeds and veins, and discard them along with the stem. Scoop all the flesh out of the avocados.

    Step 2

    Working in batches as needed, add the cucumbers, avocados, pepper if using, yogurt, scallions, garlic, herbs, olive oil, water, and vinegar to your food processor bowl or blender and process until puréed—the mixture should be fairly thick. If it’s too thick, add more water, 2 tablespoons at a time, until it’s pourable. Taste and season with salt and pepper as desired. Chill in the fridge for about an hour.

    Step 3

    To serve, ladle portions into soup bowls or glasses, garnish as desired, and drizzle with more olive oil.

    Yields 8 servings

For Your Best Health: The Mediterranean Diet for Longevity

For Your Best Health

The Mediterranean Diet for Longevity

The study: “Mediterranean Diet Adherence and Risk of All-Cause Mortality in Women,” JAMA Network Open,2024.

The health benefits of a Mediterranean diet, on its own and when compared to other healthy ways of eating, are so strong that US dietary guidelines have repeatedly designated it as the healthiest recommended diet. It’s also gotten the nod from many health organizations around the globe, including the American Heart Association, European Society of Cardiology, and Australian National Heart Foundation. While these benefits aren’t in doubt, how it achieves them hasn’t been completely understood. This new study sought to better explain the various ways in which the body responds to the diet—how exactly closely following it lowers mortality risk. What’s more, the more than 25,000 participants were American women. In general, women aren’t included in the same numbers as men in most studies, and regarding research on the Mediterranean diet in particular, most studies have been done in the countries surrounding the Mediterranean Sea, where the diet is more of a way of life than in the US.

For the study, researchers from Brigham and Women’s Hospital, a founding member of the Mass General Brigham healthcare system, followed the women, who were all healthy at the start of the study, for up to 25 years. They found that participants who followed the diet most closely had up to 23% lower risk of all-cause mortality…and found evidence of biological changes to help explain why. They were able to detect and evaluate changes in approximately 40 biomarkers representing various biological pathways and clinical risk factors, both traditional ones and novel ones that hadn’t been used in prior studies. Biomarkers of metabolism and inflammation made the largest contribution, followed by triglyceride-rich lipoproteins, adiposity, and insulin resistance. Smaller contributions were seen from biological pathways relate to branched-chain amino acids, high-density lipoproteins, low-density lipoproteins, glycemic measures, and hypertension. 

“For women who want to live longer, our study says watch your diet!,” said senior author Samia Mora, MD, a cardiologist and the director of the Center for Lipid Metabolomics at the Brigham. “The good news is that following a Mediterranean dietary pattern could result in about one quarter reduction in risk of death over more than 25 years with benefit for both cancer and cardiovascular mortality, the top causes of death in women (and men) in the US and globally.”

“Our research provides significant public health insight: Even modest changes in established risk factors for metabolic diseases, particularly those linked to small molecule metabolites, inflammation, triglyceride-rich lipoproteins, obesity, and insulin resistance, can yield substantial long-term benefits from following a Mediterranean diet,” said lead author Shafqat Ahmad, PhD, an associate professor of epidemiology at Uppsala University Sweden and a researcher in the Center for Lipid Metabolomics and the Division of Preventive Medicine at the Brigham. “This finding underscores the potential of encouraging healthier dietary habits to reduce the overall risk of mortality.”

Mediterranean food spread

How the Study Was Conducted

At the start of the study, blood samples, biomarker measurements, and dietary information were taken from the participants, who self-reported demographics and filled out a validated food-frequency questionnaire. The data collection period was from April 1993 to January 1996, and data analysis took place from June 2018 to November 2023.

Each participant was given a score for Mediterranean diet adherence, which ranged from 0 to 9. Eating a higher-than-median amount of each of a list of foods—vegetables (excluding potatoes), fruits, nuts, whole grains, legumes, and fish—earned 1 point. So did eating a good ratio of monounsaturated-to-saturated fatty acids such as olive oil compared to butter, a less-than-median amount of red and processed meat, and having an alcohol intake within the range of 5 to 15 grams a day (one 5-ounce glass of wine, a 12-ounce can of regular beer, or 1.5 ounces of liquor). Participants were then categorized into one of three levels: 0-3 or low, 4-5 or intermediate, and 6-9 or high. Women with scores of 6 or greater had a 23% lower relative risk of all-cause mortality than did women who scored 3 or less. 

“The health benefits of the Mediterranean diet are recognized by medical professionals, and our study offers insights into why the diet may be so beneficial. Public health policies should promote the healthful dietary attributes of the Mediterranean diet and should discourage unhealthy adaptations,” said Dr. Mora.

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Olive Oil Hunter News #170

Horiatiki Salad Recipe and The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

I’m a huge fan of both Greek and Middle Eastern salads, the ingredients of which are not only delicious but also mainstays of the MIND (Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay) diet, a way of eating designed for brain health. It’s an offshoot of the super-healthy Mediterranean diet and the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diet. Why the distinction? Because the latest research on the MIND diet shows it can slow aging as well as reduce dementia risk. Add this to the list of the benefits of olive oil—it’s one of the super foods that MIND suggests including every day.

Horiatiki: The Sequel!

  • Beef Stew à la Française Beef Stew à la Française

    The aromas wafting from this stew as it cooks are tantalizing! And the finished dish is worth the wait (it gets even better the next day). Enjoy it on its own, over broad noodles, or with a side of creamy mashed potatoes.

    Ingredients

    • 1/4 cup whole wheat flour
    • 1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more as needed
    • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
    • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
    • 4 garlic cloves, minced
    • 12 shallots, trimmed and peeled 
    • 12 ounces white mushrooms, trimmed as needed and sliced
    • 2 pounds stew beef, trimmed of external fat and cut into roughly 1-inch chunks 
    • 1/2 cup Armagnac, Cognac, or other brandy
    • 2 cups beef stock, more as needed
    • 1/2 cup dry red wine
    • 1/3 cup creamy Dijon mustard
    • 1/3 cup whole-grain Dijon mustard
    • 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
    • 6 carrots, peeled and sliced into 2-inch lengths

    Directions

    Step 1

    In a bowl large enough to hold the meat, whisk together the flour, salt, and pepper; set aside near your stovetop. Heat a large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic, and shallots, and sauté until they soften. Add the mushrooms and continue cooking until they’ve browned. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the garlic, shallots, and mushrooms to a bowl. 

    Step 2

    Add the rest of the olive oil to the pot. Dredge the meat cubes in the flour mixture and add them to the pot (work in batches if needed to avoid crowding). Use tongs to turn them to get a nice sear on all sides. Deglaze the pot with the brandy, using a spatula to get up all the bits of fond on the bottom.

    Step 3

    Add back the vegetables and the rest of the ingredients, stirring to combine. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover but leave the lid slightly ajar, and cook over low heat for 2 hours. Check periodically to see whether you need to add more stock to avoid scorching. When done, the meat should be so tender that it almost falls apart. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.

    Yields 8 servings

  • Ricotta Breakfast Cups Olive Oil Hunter News #200

    Ricotta Breakfast Cups Recipe, Spotlight on Local honey, Whole-Milk vs. Part-Skim Ricotta, Managing Pain with Diet and Benefits of A Gradual Exercise Increase

    Welcome to our 200th Olive Oil Hunter Newsletter, and thank you for being part of our family. This issue’s recipe is a sweet break from breakfast yogurt-and-berry parfaits, as delish as they are. The creaminess of the ricotta, the sweetness of the pears, and the crunch of the nuts add up to a cup of bliss—so tempting you can serve it as dessert! To stay on track with your New Year’s wellness goals, you’ll want to read advice from the University of South Australia about diet quality and pain management and from Hackensack University Medical Center on increasing exercise without injury risk.

    Ricotta Breakfast Cups

    Healthy Ingredient Spotlight: Whole-Milk or Part-Skim Ricotta?

    Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

    Whole-Milk or Part-Skim Ricotta?

    Taken as a whole, the body of research done on the merits and risks of whole-fat dairy foods—primarily milk, yogurt, and cheese—is still inconclusive. It’s confusing because these foods contain saturated fat, which—unlike the healthy unsaturated fat in extra virgin olive oil—should be limited to 10% of daily calories, according to the Dietary Guidelines for Americans. (If you’re watching your cholesterol, the American Heart Association recommends getting just 5% to 6% of calories from saturated fat.) 

    Some studies have found that dairy fat may not hurt heart health in the same ways the saturated fat in butter and red meat does. But deciding whether to choose whole-milk or part-skim ricotta depends on your unique circumstances, including your cholesterol level, how your body responds to saturated fat, and the guidelines you get from your healthcare provider, according to experts at the Mayo Clinic. What else you eat also matters—if your diet includes the recommended amounts of fruits, vegetables, nuts, legumes, and fish, some full-fat dairy may be just fine, at least on occasion.

    Quick Kitchen Nugget: Local honey

    Quick Kitchen Nugget

    Local Honey

    Local honey for health

    With more than 300 types of honey available in the US, the art and science of beekeeping have never been more popular, and that means you may see local honey at your farmers’ markets and even in grocery stores. Local honey is strained to remove any impurities from the hive, but it’s not pasteurized and processed the way commercial honey is. Some people think that because it retains more nutrients, like antioxidants, it has health benefits—from easing a cough or sore throat to helping with allergies to healing burns. While the verdict isn’t yet in on all of honey’s powers, you might consider buying local honey just for its taste

    For Your Best Health: Keeping Diabetes in Check

    For Your Best Health

    Managing Pain with Diet

    Researchers at the University of South Australia (UniSA) explored the links between body fat, diet, and pain and found that eating more healthy foods—as outlined in the Australian Dietary Guidelines—was directly associated with lower levels of body pain, particularly among women. (According to the experts at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston, these guidelines are similar to those in the US but recommend higher fruit and vegetable intake: 2 to 9 servings of vegetables and 1 to 5 of fruits, compared to the US guideline of 5 to 9 daily servings of vegetables and fruits in total.) 

    Globally, about 30% of the population suffers from chronic pain, with women and people who are overweight or obese experiencing pain at higher rates. UniSA PhD researcher Sue Ward said the study shows how modifiable factors, such as diet, can help. “It’s common knowledge that eating well is good for your health and well-being. But knowing that simple changes to your diet could offset chronic pain could be life-changing,” she said. “In our study, higher consumption of core foods—which are your vegetables, fruits, grains, lean meats, dairy and alternatives—was related to less pain, and this was regardless of body weight. This is important because being overweight or obese is a known risk factor for chronic pain. Knowing that food choices and the overall quality of a person’s diet will not only make a person healthier but also help reduce their pain levels is extremely valuable.”

    The UniSA findings also suggest that diet quality affects pain differently in men and women. 

    “Women with better diets had lower pain levels and better physical function. But this effect was much weaker for men,” Ward said. 

    “It’s possible that the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of the healthier core food groups are what reduces pain, but we can’t yet determine whether poorer diet quality leads to more pain or whether pain leads to eating a poorer quality diet,” added Ward. “A healthy, nutritious diet brings multiple benefits for health, well-being, and pain management. And while personalized pain management strategies should be adopted, a healthy diet is an accessible, affordable, and effective way to manage and even reduce pain.”

    Fitness Flash: Exercise to Curb Appetite

    Fitness Flash

    A Gradual Increase

    Nearly 4 in 5 people make New Year’s resolutions for better health, according to experts at Hackensack University Medical Center in New Jersey. For 32% of Americans, the focus is on improving diet; for 36%, it’s on boosting mental health; and for 48%, it’s on exercise for enhanced fitness. 

    Research shows that only 9% of Americans who make resolutions complete them—23% quit by the end of the first week and 43% quit by the end of January, and the numbers continue to drop from there. One common reason people stop exercising is sustaining an injury. In early January, many people who have not regularly exercised pack gyms or begin new running or weight training routines. Without proper preparation and form, injuries can stop exercise-focused resolutions before they have the needed time to become habits. 

    “When you go from 0 to 100 with your exercise routine, oftentimes, your body can’t handle it, your form is off, and you become prone to injuries,” said Matthew Counihan, MD, orthopedic sports medicine physician at Hackensack. “Muscle strains, shin splints, and joint and tendon injuries are common when going too hard with a new exercise routine. Injuries mean a person has to stop exercising to heal, and oftentimes, the routine isn’t resumed.”

    To avoid injury, sports medicine experts say start slow and build gradually. “You don’t have to run a 5-minute mile on day one. Start with a walk around the block. Then, gradually increase your distance and speed. It’s the same with any exercise routine. Start with lighter weights and build up, for example,” Dr. Counihan said.

    Exercise tips: gradually increase

    Here are more tips from the physicians at Hackensack Meridian Health:

    • Get your doctor’s go-ahead first. It’s important to discuss a significant change in your exercise routine with your physician and address your readiness for physical activity and how to best prepare your body for it.
    • Find activities you love, whether running, cycling, swimming, yoga, weight training, or something else. An exercise routine is only as good as your commitment to it.
    • Stretch before and after working out, and set aside time to increase flexibility. This will prevent common sports injuries and keep you going well into the year. 
    • Focus on your form. Learn to do your chosen exercise properly—doing it wrong will cause injuries. Once you’ve mastered form, start adding distance, speed, or weight gradually. 
    • Mix up your exercise regimen. This promotes a healthy musculoskeletal system, which decreases the risk of an overuse injury. And don’t forget to rest on one day every week or so.
    • Massage sore muscles. When you start a new exercise routine, you’re bound to experience muscle soreness, tightness, or strain. Massaging sore joints and muscles can reduce tension, impact flexibility, increase blood flow, and decrease muscle stiffness.

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  • Ricotta Breakfast Cups Ricotta Breakfast Cups

    Giving ricotta a quick whirl in a food processor takes its creaminess to the next level. 

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup whole-milk or part-skim ricotta
    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    • 2 tablespoons sugar or sweetener equivalent
    • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
    • 2 ripe pears
    • Lemon wedge
    • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
    • Honey to taste

    Directions

    Step 1

    Place the ricotta, olive oil, sugar, and cinnamon in the bowl of your food processor and process until completely smooth and creamy—between 2 and 5 minutes, depending on your machine. 

    Step 2

    Halve the pears, scoop out the seeds, and slice them into half-moons; squeeze some lemon juice over the pears to preserve their color. 

    Step 3

    Place a large spoonful of the ricotta cream at the bottom of each of the two glasses or individual bowls. Add a layer of pears and a sprinkling of nuts. Continue layering—you should have enough for three layers each of ricotta, pears, and nuts. Drizzle the tops with honey and olive oil. 

    Yields 2 servings

  • Favolosa olive trees and T. J. Robinson in Italy Quarter 4—Italian Harvest

    Direct from Bella Italia Three Enchanting Extra Virgin Olive Oils That Will Elevate Every Meal and Seasonal Celebration

    T.J. Robinson The Olive Oil Hunter
    • Chosen by your Olive Oil Hunter and meticulously handcrafted with Italy’s leading artisanal producers.
    • Brimming with the polyphenols that confer many of extra virgin olive oil’s health benefits.
    • Certified 100 percent extra virgin olive oil by an independent lab and delivered to the US by jet for the ultimate freshness and flavor.

    They say that all roads lead to Rome, but, more important, all roads from Rome lead to olives! You can even see olive trees growing in the shadow of the Colosseum along the Appian Way, the ancient thoroughfare that led south.

    I’m always happy to be in the Eternal City and even more excited this year. Early intel was that central Italy was having an olive oil comeback—no weather or harvesting drama, just wonderful olives. Spring rains had led to bountiful blossoms and trees heavy with fruit.

    This quintessential view of Toscana—Tuscany—embodies the romance of Italy: rustic houses, statuesque cypresses, bushy olive trees laden with fruit. We made a stately villa in the town of Castiglione D’Orcia our temporary home as we waited for the magic window for harvesting. It’s where we created this report’s recipes. They take inspiration from all the regions we visited and showcase ingredients integral to the Mediterranean diet—dark leafy greens, nuts, and, of course, fresh-pressed olive oil.

    After a hot summer, the hoped-for autumn rains arrived on cue to help promote the right aromas and taste sensations. It’s not hyperbole to say that these were the most glorious looking olives I’ve seen in 10 years.

    Sadly, that was not the scenario in southern regions like Calabria and Sicily. So, this trip found my Merry Band of Tasters and me crisscrossing a relatively narrow west-to-east swath of this glorious country. We visited favored-status farms in regions including Lazio, Umbria, and Abruzzo to sample superlative fresh-pressed oils for you, dear Club member, and decide on the best of the best—this season presented us with an embarrassment of riches!

    After an amazing farm-to-table lunch at his sister Graziella’s home, Claudio Di Mercurio took me to the historic mountaintop village of Appignano, where he grew up. His sharing this very personal side of himself deepened the bond we’ve built over the years. Personal connection is how I’m able to provide Club members with the most exquisite oils—relationships like this don’t happen over the phone.

    A Happy Surprise

    As Club members know, I deeply appreciate having international olive oil authority Duccio Morozzo della Rocca on so many of my olive oil hunts. Duccio is skilled in every aspect of making olive oil, from tree cultivation to the extraction process and, most meaningful for the Club, serves as my right hand in creating specific flavor profiles. Each quarter, our goal is to perfect a trio of oils that will dazzle you—we know how much you appreciate having a mild, a medium, and a bold oil to pair with different foods. The band of central Italy where we traveled this quarter is home to a vast number of microclimates, which help create diverse flavors even within the same olive variety. Our attention was focused on crafting exquisite custom blends with the help of master millers.

    Plus, Duccio and I had a surprise for you up our collective sleeve: the debut of an amazing olive oil from northern Puglia, on the Adriatic—specifically, Fratelli Ruggiero, the farm of Nicola Ruggiero and his brother, Mario. Duccio and I began brainstorming months ago for a new way to tantalize your tastebuds, and we decided on Fratelli Ruggiero for multiple reasons, notably, the opportunity to work with a colleague of Duccio’s, Nicolangelo Marsicani. A master miller and olive oil impresario who often advises Nicola, Nicolangelo was particularly thrilled by a very special olive variety, Favolosa—“fabulous” in Italian. The Fratelli Ruggiero oil, our mild selection, more than lived up to the moniker.

    Creating our first Fratelli Ruggiero olive oil was a collaboration of many talented millers—an all-star team that included Duccio Morozzo della Rocca (far left) and Nicolangelo Marsicani (fourth from left), along with visiting millers from Brazil and other parts of Italy eager to learn the art of crafting olive oil from the masters. Tasting together and comparing impressions as the new oil flows—look at that vibrant color!—is always a special moment for me.

    And there’s much more deliciousness that awaits you: a spicy medium oil from Claudio Di Mercurio’s Frantoio Mercurius, with an artichoke profile and hints of green almond, and a vibrant bold oil from Colli Etruschi, the collective led by Nicola Fazzi, with its more almond profile and hints of raw artichoke—two oils from the same “flavor family” but with very different personalities.

    Passion You Can Taste

    Each frantoio (mill) has its own unique approach to olive cultivation, harvesting, and milling. What these have in common is the passion of the three men at the helms. Ask what drew them to making olive oil, and each will answer that it’s in their blood, that their earliest memories are of the intoxicating aroma of olio nuovo, “new oil,” of the way it elevated even the simplest meals. They also share a determination to keep their farms thriving in the face of a changing climate and to constantly upgrade their processes to obtain the best olives and rush them to the mill—and then to you—as quickly as possible. This level of dedication results in olive oils you will adore and reach for again and again. Enjoy them on your own favorite foods and in the recipes found below, where you’ll find not only regional dishes but also some of the producers’ family favorites, and two from Duccio himself!

    Happy drizzling!

    T. J. Robinson 
    The Olive Oil Hunter®


    This Quarter’s First Selection

    • Producer: Fratelli Ruggiero, Bitonto, Puglia, Italy 2024
    • Olive Varieties: Favolosa
    • Flavor Profile: Mild
    Fratelli Ruggiero, Bitonto, Puglia, Italy 2024 Fresh Pressed Olive Oil

    Club members know how much I value the longstanding relationships I’ve developed with the top artisanal olive oil makers around the world. Yet I also delight in expanding our global community when the stars align and I find a new producer whose olive oil sends tingles down my spine and, more importantly, on my palate! It’s with great fanfare that I present the first ever Club selection from Fratelli Ruggiero. In fact, it represents a series of firsts: working with Nicola Ruggiero and his brother Mario, creating an Italian extra virgin olive oil made from Favolosa—“fabulous”—olives, and having it crafted to perfection by renowned master miller Nicolangelo Marsicani, who has been collaborating with Fratelli Ruggiero for many years.

    A Modern-Day Renaissance Man

    Over the course of his career, Nicola has been deeply involved in local politics and served as president of the first consortium of Italian olive growers—but don’t expect to find him sitting behind a desk. He’s as hands-on as any producer I’ve ever met, working alongside his team in the grove every day. Nicola, who grew up in the coastal city of Bari but whose parents were raised in the countryside near his main farm, is laser-focused on growing olives of the highest quality and is meticulous about every design detail: how far apart his trees are planted, the perfect symmetry of their rows, even edging sections of the field with herbs. And to protect the flavor of his beautiful olives, he makes sure they get from tree to mill in record time.

    Favolosa olive trees and T. J. Robinson in Italy
    Nicola was prescient in his decision to plant hundreds of hectares of Favolosa olive trees. They’ve proven resistant to the Xylella bacteria that has now ravaged millions of other olive cultivars in Puglia. Favolosa was developed naturally as a drought- and disease-resistant variety in the 1980s by the late Giuseppe Fontanazza, scientist, director of the Institute of Research on Olive Growing of Perugia, and legend in the field of olive culture.

    An Olive Oil Concerto

    Once our amazing fruit arrived at the mill, it rested on Nicolangelo to turn it into amazing olive oil. With Nicolangelo, I’ve come full circle: he and I first met 10 years ago, at his farm in Cilento National Park in Campania. I had hoped to introduce his own oil to the Club in those early days—I loved the quality, but there just wasn’t enough of it. Also, he might have been a bit apprehensive back then about just who the “Olive Oil Hunter” was, but now he knows we share the same goal of creating the highest-quality olive oil and expanding the audience of people who appreciate it how superior it is to run-of-the-mill (pun intended) products.

    Crafting an oil for the Club was a challenge Nicolangelo embraced. Favolosa was the hands-down varietal of choice, but he knew it had to satisfy our desire for a predominantly green-grass-and-tomato-leaf profile. One of his greatest skills is being able to tune Fratelli Ruggiero’s state-of-the-art milling machinery, just as a concert violinist tunes their instrument, to achieve just the right aromatic balance of bitterness, spiciness, and fruitiness.

    Nicolangelo, whose appreciation for fresh olive oil was born as tantalizing aromas wafted up to his childhood bedroom above his family’s mill, has spent much of his career studying transformative ways of growing, harvesting, and milling olives to create as perfect an oil as possible. Like Nicola, he’s very specific about parameters: his own preference is to harvest olives early, when they’re green and have a 58% humidity content. That signals the right ratio of pulp, water, and oil inside the olive, essential to achieving the right aroma. Our Favolosa olives were harvested at that precise moment, and all their characteristics have been captured in the bottle you have before you.

    Nicola orchestrated a lavish dinner at the famed Ai 2 Ghiottoni in Bari. We feasted on both raw and seared tuna, fish carpaccio, fried calamari, octopus salad, and the region’s signature dish, fave e cicoria (recipe below). To quote Bogart at the end of Casablanca, I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.

    Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

    This is a beautiful expression of the Favolosa olive, an exciting and complex mild olive oil. On the nose, it’s grassy, with notes of tomato leaf, celery leaf, kale, thyme, basil, oregano, wheatgrass, green banana, green apple, and cinnamon. A vegetable garden in a bottle and on the palate, we tasted fennel, green tomato, wheatgrass, sweet basil, baby spinach, celery, carrot tops, the sweetness of Asian pear, the bitterness of walnuts, and a hint of the spiciness of Szechuan peppercorns.

    It will elevate insalata Torre a Cona and other greens; salads with fruit; Duccio’s pastina soup, tomato-based soups and pasta sauces; turkey involtini; filetto di pesce in crosta di patate and other delicate fish; spinach and squash lasagna; pizza; carrot, sweet potato, or squash dishes; Caprese salad and other mozzarella dishes; goat cheese; and crusty breads.

    *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.


    This Quarter’s Second Selection

    • Producer: Frantoio Mercurius Penne, Abruzzo, Italy 2024
    • Olive Varieties: Dritta, Raggia
    • Flavor Profile: Medium
    Frantoio Mercurius Extra Virgin Olive oil Fresh Pressed Olive Oil Club

    “When I get an email from America, I know it is from T. J.,” confided Claudio Di Mercurio. The gregarious leader of Frantoio Mercurius, Claudio not only received excited, inquiring emails from me throughout the growing season but also—for an unprecedented seventh year in a row—collaborated on another extraordinary ultra-premium EVOO for our Club.

    How has this tiny, 60-acre family enterprise in central Italy’s Abruzzo region been able to sustain such an extended winning streak? I’d attribute it to a combination of artisanal vision, meticulous planning, geographical specificity, immeasurable sweat equity, and a rare Italian olive, native to Abruzzo, called Dritta.

    Rhymes with Rita

    I had never heard of Dritta when I first visited Claudio’s farm, in 2018. As the Olive Oil Hunter, it is part of my life’s mission to sample and savor as many of the earth’s hundreds of olive varieties as I can, at least 550 of which are indigenous to Italy. Dritta lives up to its name, which translates variously as “consistent, dependable, trustworthy.” Unlike most cultivars, which alternate between years of high production and low, Dritta bears fruit consistently each year. Claudio’s team grows Dritta on about 70% of the land, with the other 30% devoted to an array of Italian varietals. Frantoio Mercurius is nestled in a microclimate, protected from weather extremes by the Apennine mountains to its north and the Mediterranean to the east.

    Delicioso! Graziella Di Mercurio graciously welcomed me and my Merry Band of Tasters into her wondrous cooking shed, an inner sanctum where I could have spent weeks, nibbling and emitting shouts of joy. To celebrate another brilliant collaboration between Frantoio Mercurius and the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, Graziella prepared a feast that featured a divine soup of pasta and borlotti beans in a light tomato broth and her signature pizza di scarola—try the recipe found below.

    Heart of an Artisan, Mind of an Engineer

    Claudio founded the operation in 2009 with the mission of creating ultra-premium EVOO. A systems engineer by trade, he consulted—before pressing a single drop—with the esteemed Italian olive mill manufacturer Giorgio Mori. It’s no surprise that Frantoio Mercurius operates a state-of-the-art Mori mill with a special knife crusher and a technologically advanced cooling system that keeps the olive paste at a low temperature, helping to preserve the aromas and polyphenols in the EVOO. Frantoio Mercurius brought Abruzzese olive oil into the 21st century, winning regional awards in its very first pressing season.

    Claudio Di Mercurio proudly displays one of his farm’s many international awards. Frantoio Mercurius EVOOs consistently win top honors from prestigious olive oil guides Flos Olei and Gambero Rosso (Mill of the Year), among many others. Members of our Tasters’ Circle will recognize the traditional cobalt blue tasting glass.

    The Embrace of Family and Food

    When I and my Merry Band of Tasters arrived for the recent harvest, we were thrilled that Claudio and his sister Graziella extended an invitation for us to visit their family home, up in the mountains. In the late 1950s, Claudio explained, his father traveled to the US and worked in New York for a period, earning enough money to purchase land in Abruzzo upon his return. The Di Mercurios’ home took several years to build; they moved in when Claudio was six, in 1970.

    What a joy it was to stroll the narrow, medieval-era streets of Appignano. And, oh mio Dio—the food! I knew Graziella was an outstanding cook, but witnessing her cooking shed, with gigantic pasta pots and wood ovens, and dining in her kitchen, surrounded by jars of fresh tomato passata, beauteous heirloom beans, a giant platter of foraged porcini mushrooms, and strings of dried pepperoncini—it was as though I had died and gone to heaven.

    You may feel similarly transported when you taste this incredible exclusive Club selection. Initially, we had planned on a single-varietal Dritta, but when Claudio brought out samples of just-pressed Raggia, another rare local varietal, we discovered that a tiny amount of it fine-tuned the complexity and food-friendliness for a harmonious blend. From Abruzzo to your table, buon appetito!

    Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

    The unique union of Dritta and Raggia
    olives joins two distinct personalities that
    enhance each other. We inhaled artichoke,
    dark leafy greens, radicchio, sweet hay, dark
    chocolate, and the sweetness of hazelnuts
    with a touch of pear and wild mint. On the
    palate, we again noted artichoke as well as
    spinach and dandelion greens, fresh walnuts
    and hazelnuts, the spiciness of celery leaves
    with hints of rosemary and nasturtium, and a
    persistent bitterness reminiscent of cacao nibs.

    Lavish this oil on salads with nuts, Graziella’s pizza di scarola and focaccia, ancient grains like farro and spelt, brown rice, fave e cicoria, borlotti and other deeply hued beans, braised dark greens, roasted artichokes, shellfish and squid, beef dishes, pasta in walnut cream, recipes with nutmeg, breakfast smoothies, and brownies and other chocolate desserts.

    *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.


    This Quarter’s Third Selection

    • Producer: Colli Etruschi, Blera, Lazio, Italy 2024
    • Olive Varieties: Canino
    • Flavor Profile: Bold
    Colli Etruschi Extra Virgin Olive oil Fresh Pressed Olive Oil Club

    Enthusiastic early reports from my scouts made me excited about collaborating once again with Nicola Fazzi and the historic cooperative Colli Etruschi, in the central Italian town of Blera. Veteran Club members will recall that we featured glorious EVOOs from this award-winning co-op in 2022 and 2019. Yet, whenever I’d touch base with Nicola about how the season was going, he’d respond only with an affirmative but tempered, “Good.”

    My own tendency is to reach for superlatives when they’re deserved, but I know why he was cautious. Earlier this season, Colli Etruschi invested in a brand-new, state-of-the-art olive mill—and, as when a professional musician switches instruments or a race-car driver changes cars, Nicola was hesitant to pronounce it a successful upgrade until he had the proof in hand.

    Now, my lucky Club member, you have the proof in hand, this sensational single-varietal Canino—the first official pressing from Colli Etruschi’s beautiful new Haus mill (Haus is a forward-thinking Turkish manufacturer). As soon as my Merry Band of Tasters and I had a hint of this liquid gold on our tastebuds, the unanimous cry was, “We’ve gotta have this oil!” Immediately, Nicola became more animated—it was as though he had been holding his breath, waiting for our approval. His excitement bloomed, and he proudly proclaimed this one of the best oils in his three decades with the co-op.

    I was thrilled to learn that Nicola Fazzi’s son, Alessandro, is following in his father’s footsteps at Colli Etruschi. With more than three decades of hands-on experience, Nicola is a font of wisdom and insight earned at Lazio’s most esteemed mill, at the intersection of community involvement and artisanal excellence.

    Local Heroes

    Colli Etruschi was founded in 1965 by 18
    local olive farmers who recognized that, with a cooperative model and shared mill, they could combine their talents, labor, and fruit to support one another through both bumper crops and lean harvests. When Nicola entered its ranks, 33 years ago, fresh out of agronomy school, he saw an opportunity to intensify the focus on quality and market the co-op’s EVOO commercially. Now, Colli Etruschi involves hundreds of small-scale olive farmers and continues its multifaceted mission to produce excellent olive oil, pay its members a living wage, practice sustainable agriculture, and give back to the community.

    A Community of Excellence

    Today, Nicola’s daughter, Isabella, works for the co-op in communications and marketing, and his son, Alessandro, is dedicated to rehabilitating a local grove of abandoned olive trees. Nicola, born in Blera, looks forward to retiring “in
    about 10 years.” Meanwhile, his innovations
    never cease: with the new mill, Colli Etruschi
    can prioritize early-harvest pressing of green
    olives (my preference, as Club members know,
    for optimizing flavors and polyphenols). I felt
    like a kid in a candy shop in the late afternoon,
    as farmers delivered bushels, baskets, and bins of
    just-picked, perfectly shaped, light-green olives,
    kilos and kilos of them, which would be rushed
    to the mill, cold-washed, and pressed into the
    golden-green elixir I have delivered to you.

    Nicola prizes the herbaceous complexity of
    this oil, a blend of several separate pressings of
    Canino olives. This robust, gorgeously aromatic
    blend radiates dimension and personality greater
    than the sum of its parts.

    Both small and large Canino variations yield excellent EVOO, but the larger fruit creates oils with a more vibrant flavor profile. Colli Etruschi reserves it for ultra-premium EVOO. “Most is for T. J.,” Nicola confides. At right: Alessandro and I consolidate the deliveries of this magnificent fruit to be transported, moments later, to the mill.

    Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

    A vibrant, full-flavored crowd-pleaser, the
    aroma of this Canino is beautifully grassy, with
    notes of chopped culinary herbs, sweet almond,
    fennel, mint, and whiffs of lemon, vanilla, and
    arugula. We tasted the sweetness of almond
    with the spiciness of arugula and white pepper,
    the intense bitterness of radicchio, and hints of
    green apple and microgreens, with a lingering
    spicy finish.

    This oil pairs beautifully with chicken cacciatore alla Romana, carpaccio, tuna and other meaty fish, octopus, risottos, beans, winter soups and braises, roasted root vegetables, wild mushrooms, roasted radicchio, broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables, celery leaf bruschetta and other bruschetta toppings, roasted radicchio, porchetta spread, aged cheeses, millefoglie two ways, vanilla ice cream, and yogurt parfaits.

    *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.


    Olive Oil and Health


    Kudos from Club Members

    New club members
    Hello! I just got my first bottle within the past week or so, and my wife immediately set up a double-blind taste test for me (using numbers hidden under each plate to identify which was which). She bakes fresh artisanal breads whenever she has a snow day (she’s a teacher), and we wanted to see how four different olive oils might compete against one another by dipping the fresh-baked bread in each of the four oils. These oils were all labeled as EVOO, and all were well within their “consume by” dates. The four were a big ol’ jug from Costco, Bragg (Greece), Thrive (Italy), and the Pruneti (Tuscan blend), from the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club. I was actually blindfolded, so I couldn’t even see what difference there might be in color, consistency, etc. We added nothing, not even salt, to the oils or the bread before tasting. I expected to not really be able to tell much difference, as I’m no connoisseur, and also because I’ve heard that even experts perform miserably on double-blind taste tests, rarely able to distinguish super-gourmet from run-of-the-mill, whether for wine, olive oil, or anything else. The first one I tried was very good, the second was a bit more bland but still good, and the third indistinguishable from the second. Then the fourth one blew my mind with how much better it was than all of the others, and in fact better than any I’ve ever tasted—and I’ve lived in Spain and traveled extensively in olive-growing regions in Italy. We had basically expected a 3-way tie for first between Bragg, Thrive, and the Fresh-Pressed oil, with the Costco far behind, but instead we had one oil far ahead, with the other three far behind. Well, it turned out that the stellar one was in fact the Pruneti, the Bragg placed a distant second, and quite surprisingly, Thrive was indistinguishable from the Costco. So, very nicely done—we’re excited to be new club members, and look forward to the next shipment!
    Mike H.Bethesda, MD

    Recipes

  • Fave e cicoria Fave e Cicoria

    A silken purée of fava beans served alongside braised wild chicory is another Pugliese classic, one we enjoyed at Ai 2 Ghiottoni in Bari with the folks from Fratelli Ruggiero. While it’s possible to find fava beans (dried or frozen) in the US, wild chicory is elusive—dandelion greens are a great stand-in and available at many greengrocers. Note: This recipe includes directions for soaking and peeling the skin from dried favas, but some purveyors sell them already peeled—you might see them labeled as broad beans. If you love chickpeas, they make a tasty substitute.

    Ingredients

    • 12 ounces dried fava beans
    • 6 garlic cloves, divided use
    • 1 bay leaf
    • 1 pound chicory or dandelion greens
    • 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt, divided use
    • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
    • 1 teaspoon pepperoncini (crushed red pepper flakes), or to taste
    • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

    Directions

    Step 1

    Soak the fava beans in a large bowl of cold water overnight. They will triple in size. Drain and rinse them, then peel off their skins with your fingernails (some beans will have a crack, which makes the job easier; for those that don’t, use the tip of a paring knife to make a slit to start you off).

    Step 2

    Place the peeled favas in a large pot with enough cold water to cover them by 2 inches. Smash 3 garlic cloves with the side of a heavy knife and add to the pot along with the bay leaf. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until tender, about an hour.

    Step 3

    While the beans are cooking, make the greens. Trim the stems as needed, rinse the leaves, and boil them in a large pot of water with 1 teaspoon salt until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.

    Step 4

    Mince the remaining 3 garlic cloves. Heat a frying pan. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, the pepperoncini, and smashed garlic, cook for 2 minutes, then add the greens and cook through; keep warm on the stove.

    Step 5

    When the beans are done, drain them well and transfer to a food processor or high-powered blender. Add in 4 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon each salt and black pepper and process until smooth and velvety. If the purée is too thin, transfer to a saucepan and place over medium heat to thicken.

    Step 6

    For each serving, plate a large spoonful of fava purée alongside some of the greens and drizzle both liberally with olive oil.

    Serves 4

  • Chicken Cacciatore Chicken Cacciatore alla Romana

    This is the second family recipe Duccio shared with the Club. Considered a “white” cacciatore because it doesn’t have tomatoes, this one-pot prep was traditionally used for making rabbit. It is succulent and flavorful. Taggiasca olives are available in some gourmet food shops and online; you can also substitute your favorite fruity brined olives.

    Ingredients

    • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    • One 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 to 10 pieces
    • 6 garlic cloves, smashed
    • 12 ounces white wine, such as a dry pinot grigio (unoaked)
    • Freshly ground black pepper
    • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
    • 1/4 cup water
    • 1/2 cup Taggiasca olives, drained
    • 4 large rosemary sprigs, or to taste
    • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
    • 4 sage leaves, chopped

    Directions

    Step 1

    Heat a Dutch oven large enough to hold the chicken pieces. When quite hot, add the olive oil and chicken pieces, skin side down, and sear until well browned, about 8 minutes. Flip the pieces with tongs and sear for 3 minutes, adding the garlic after 1 minute. Add the wine and cook it down at a high boil for about 5 minutes. Add 10 grinds of a pepper mill and the salt. Lower heat to a simmer, cover the pan, and simmer for 20 minutes.

    Step 2

    With the lid off, add the water and olives; simmer for 2 minutes. Add the herbs and toss, cook for 2 minutes, then add vinegar and simmer until sauce thickens, about 5 more minutes.

    Serves 4

  • Pasta in walnut cream Pasta in Walnut Cream

    This recipe was inspired by a pasta dish my Merry Band of Tasters and I enjoyed at Dal Sor Francesco, a restaurant in Vetralla near the Colli Etruschi mill that we try to visit every year. We arrived at the height of fresh walnut season and saw the nuts everywhere. Walnut sauce is actually a specialty of Liguria, a region in northern Italy, where it’s prepared in a pesto style. My version is a bit creamier but still takes only a few minutes to make.

    Ingredients

    • 8 ounces fusilli or other spiral-shaped pasta
    • 1 cup shelled walnuts 
    • 1 garlic clove 
    • 1 cup half-and-half
    • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    • 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
    • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
    • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    • Optional garnish: freshly grated nutmeg

    Directions

    Step 1

    Cook the pasta according to package directions. While it’s boiling, heat a large frying pan. When the pan is hot, add the walnuts and toast until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Reserve and coarsely chop 1/4 cup of the toasted walnuts. Add the rest of the walnuts and the garlic to a food processor and process until finely chopped, about 30 seconds. Add in the half-and-half, olive oil, and cheese, and pulse until you get a sauce. Transfer the sauce to the frying pan and heat to a simmer.

    Step 2

    Reserve 1/2 cup of pasta water and drain the rest. Add the pasta, salt, and pepper to the frying pan, and toss well. If the sauce is too thick, add pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time (it shouldn’t be runny). Garnish with the reserved walnuts and a sprinkle of nutmeg, if desired.

    Serves 4

  • Millefoglie Two Ways Millefoglie Two Ways

    Millefoglie, the Italian version of the French millefeuille, is extremely popular throughout the country. For chocolate lovers, I’m including a variation made with thin layers of chocolate in place of the puff pastry. Both get filled with a rich and creamy sweet cheese filling. The filling ingredients yield enough for either 8 pastry or 8 chocolate millefoglie; if you’re making both, double the quantities of the filling ingredients.

    Ingredients

    For the puff pastry layers:

    • All-purpose flour
    • 1 package frozen puff pastry, about 14 ounces, thawed as directed on the label

    For the chocolate layers:

    • 12 ounces dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

    For the cream filling:

    • 12 ounces mascarpone, room temperature
    • 8 ounces whole milk ricotta
    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    • 1 teaspoon vanilla
    • 2/3 cup confectioner’s sugar, plus more for dusting
    • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
    • Optional garnish: fresh berries

    Directions

    Step 1

    For the puff pastry layers: Heat the oven to 425°F. Lightly flour a 18×15 piece of parchment paper and a rolling pin. Unfold the thawed dough on the parchment. Roll out the dough to a 16×12 rectangle. Cut the dough into 24 equal rectangles, about 2×4 each. Slip a cookie sheet under the parchment. Add a little space between the rectangles and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Remove from the fridge and bake until the pastries puff and turn golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature before assembling.

    Step 2

    For the chocolate layers: Draw a 16×12 rectangle on a long piece of parchment, flip it over, and place on a cookie sheet; set aside. Place the chocolate pieces and olive oil in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave at 40 percent power for 3 minutes; repeat if not fully melted, checking every minute. Stir until smooth. Pour the melted chocolate on the parchment and, using a long offset spatula, spread it out to the edges of the drawn border. Place in the fridge for 10 minutes to slightly firm it, then use a very sharp chef’s knife to cut it into 24 equal rectangles, about 2×4 each.

    Step 3

    For the cream filling: Whip all the ingredients in a mixer or food processor until smooth and thick. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a 1-inch round tip, or simply fill a quart-size freezer bag and snip off one of the corners to pipe.

    Step 4

    To assemble, pipe two rows of dots of cream on each of 8 pieces of chocolate or puff pastry, top each with another piece of chocolate or puff pastry, pipe again, then top with a third piece of chocolate or puff pastry. Use a small strainer to dust the tops with confectioner’s sugar. Garnish with berries
    if desired.

    Serves 8

  • Turkey Involtini Turkey Involtini

    This dish is a celebration showstopper with ingredients that reflect the colors of the Italian flag. The key is to have your butcher debone and butterfly a large, fresh turkey breast, leaving the skin on, and then to pound it to an even thickness for easier rolling.

    Ingredients

    • 1 small yellow onion, about 4 ounces
    • 2 garlic cloves
    • 1/4 cup pine nuts
    • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
    • 12 ounces fresh spinach, rinsed, patted dry, and coarsely chopped
    • 1 teaspoon each coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, divided use
    • 1 whole boneless, skin-on turkey breast, butterflied and pounded to about 1/2-inch thickness
    • 8 ounces sun-dried tomatoes, coarsely chopped
    • 12 ounces fontina cheese, coarsely grated

    Directions

    Step 1

    Finely chop the onions and garlic in a food processor or by hand; set aside briefly. Heat a large frying pan. When hot, dry-toast the pine nuts for 2 minutes until they turn golden, then transfer to a small bowl and set aside. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to the hot frying pan, then add the onions and garlic and sauté until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. Start adding spinach to the pan by the handful, adding more as each batch cooks down. Add 1/3 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and keep cooking until the liquid from the spinach evaporates, about 8 minutes (press the spinach against the sides of the pan with a large wooden spoon to release more liquid). Take the pan off the stove and let the spinach cool slightly, then roll it up in a clean kitchen towel to squeeze out any add remaining liquid.

    Step 2

    Heat the oven to 350°F. Drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil across a rimmed sheet pan. Prep
    a countertop surface with a large piece of parchment paper. Place the turkey, skin side down, on the parchment and sprinkle with another 1/3 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, then top with an even layer of the sun-dried tomatoes, leaving a 1-inch border. Sprinkle the cheese over the tomatoes, then spread the spinach mixture over the cheese. Top with the pine nuts.

    Step 3

    Starting on the long side nearest to you, roll up the turkey, tucking in the filling as you roll. Use cotton kitchen twine to tie up the roll at 2-inch intervals to help it hold its shape. If needed, use bamboo skewers to hold the ends closed. Carefully transfer the turkey roll to the sheet pan, seam side down. Rub the final 1/3 teaspoon of salt and pepper over the skin, then drizzle the roll with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and place in the oven to roast.

    Step 4

    The turkey is done when an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F and the skin has browned; start checking after 60 minutes. Rest for 10 minutes, then snip and discard the twine and any skewers. To serve, cut into generous slices.

    Serves 6 to 8

  • Spinach and Squash Lasagna Spinach and Squash Lasagna

    This is a flavorful meatless take on traditional lasagna. Many markets now sell fresh lasagna sheets or boxes of “no-boil” dry lasagna sheets that soften while cooking, thanks to the moisture from other ingredients.

    Ingredients

    • 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
    • 2 pounds whole squash or 1 3/4 pounds precut chunks
    • Freshly ground black pepper
    • Fine sea salt
    • 3/4 pound fresh or 1 pound dry regular or no-boil lasagna sheets
    • 16 ounces whole milk ricotta
    • 2 large eggs
    • 1 3/4 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided use
    • Pinch of pepperoncini (crushed red pepper flakes), plus more to taste
    • 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
    • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage, about 3 large leaves
    • 2 garlic cloves, grated on a microplane
    • 1 pound fresh spinach, rinsed, patted dry, and coarsely chopped
    • 6 ounces fontina, grated, about 1 3/4 cups

    Directions

    Step 1

    Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place 1 tablespoon olive oil in a 9×13 baking dish and spread it over the bottom and sides with a pastry brush or clean fingers; set aside.

    Step 2

    Peel the squash as needed and cut into a small dice, about 1/4 inch in thickness. Toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 10 grinds of a pepper mill, and 1 teaspoon salt. Roast in a rimmed sheet pan for 20 minutes, just until a sharp knife pierces a few pieces with barely any resistance. Cool slightly and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

    Step 3

    Complete the following steps while the squash
    is roasting. If using regular dried lasagna sheets, cook them according to package directions for
    al dente, drain, rinse with cool water to stop the cooking process and make them easier to handle, and set aside.

    Step 4

    In a large bowl, mix the ricotta, eggs, 1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, pepperoncini, nutmeg, and sage; set aside.

    Step 5

    Heat a large frying pan. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the garlic, then start adding spinach to the pan by the handful, adding more as each batch cooks down. Keep cooking until the liquid from the spinach evaporates, about 8 minutes (press the spinach against the sides of the pan with a large wooden spoon to release more liquid). Take the pan off the stove and let the spinach cool slightly, then roll it up in a clean kitchen towel to squeeze out any add remaining liquid. Add to the bowl with the squash and combine.

    Step 6

    Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Place a layer of lasagna sheets in the prepared baking dish, spread on 1/3 of the cheese mixture, then 1/3 of the squash mixture; sprinkle on 1/2 cup fontina and 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano. Repeat that sequence twice more, then top with the rest of the fontina and a drizzle of olive oil.

    Step 7

    Bake for 45 minutes until the cheese is bubbly
    (if you’d like it more browned, place under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes). Let it cool slightly before cutting into squares, dressing each one with a drizzle of olive oil.

    Serves 10

For Your Best Health: Managing Depression: Using Scents to Unlock Memories 

For Your Best Health

The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

According to a new study from researchers at the Columbia University Mailman School of Public Health and The Robert Butler Columbia Aging Center, a very specific brain-boosting diet has been linked to reduced dementia risk and a slower pace of aging. The study, “Diet, Pace of Biological Aging, and Risk of Dementia in the Framingham Heart Study,” published in the Annals of Neurology, also explains how the diet helps slow down the processes of biological aging.

“Much attention to nutrition in dementia research focuses on the way specific nutrients affect the brain,” said Daniel Belsky, PhD, associate professor of epidemiology and a senior author of the study. “We tested the hypothesis that healthy diet protects against dementia by slowing down the body’s overall pace of biological aging.”

The researchers used data from the second generation of the Framingham Heart Study, the Offspring Cohort. Participants were 60 years of age or older and free of dementia and had available dietary, epigenetic, and follow-up data. Follow-up was done at nine examinations, approximately every 4 to 7 years, which included a physical exam, lifestyle-related questionnaires, blood sampling, and, starting in 1991, neurocognitive testing. Of 1,644 participants included in the analyses, 140 developed dementia. 

To measure the pace of aging, the researchers used an epigenetic clock called DunedinPACE developed by Dr. Belsky and colleagues at Duke University and the University of Otago in Dunedin, New Zealand. The clock measures how fast a person’s body is deteriorating as they grow older, “like a speedometer for the biological processes of aging,” explained Dr. Belsky.

“We have some strong evidence that a healthy diet can protect against dementia,” said Yian Gu, PhD, associate professor of neurological sciences at Columbia University Irving Medical Center and the other senior author of the study, “but the mechanism of this protection is not well understood.” Past research linked both diet and dementia risk to an accelerated pace of biological aging. “Testing the hypothesis that multi-system biological aging is a mechanism of underlying diet-dementia associations was the logical next step,” explained Dr. Belsky.

The research determined that higher adherence to the MIND diet slowed the pace of aging as measured by DunedinPACE and reduced risks for dementia and mortality. Furthermore, slower DunedinPACE accounted for 27% of the diet-dementia association and 57% of the diet-mortality association.

“Our findings suggest that slower pace of aging mediates part of the relationship of healthy diet with reduced dementia risk, and therefore, monitoring pace of aging may inform dementia prevention,” said first author Aline Thomas, PhD, of the Columbia Department of Neurology and Taub Institute for Research on Alzheimer’s Disease and the Aging Brain. “However, a portion of the diet-dementia association remains unexplained, therefore we believe that continued investigation of brain-specific mechanisms in well-designed mediation studies is warranted.”

“We suggest that additional observational studies be conducted to investigate direct associations of nutrients with brain aging, and if our observations are also confirmed in more diverse populations, monitoring biological aging may indeed inform dementia prevention,” noted Dr. Belsky.

Exactly What Is the MIND Diet?

MIND is a hybrid of the Mediterranean and DASH diets, tailored to reflect key findings from nutrition and dementia research. It details serving sizes of specific foods to focus on and which to limit, primarily those high in saturated fat, which is known to negatively affect brain health. 

Foods and portions to eat every day: 1/2 to 1 cup green leafy vegetables, 1/2 cup other vegetables, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and three 1-ounce servings of whole grains. 

Foods and portions to eat over the course of each week: 5 ounces nuts, 2-1/2 cups berries, 1-1/2 cups legumes, two 3-to-5-ounce servings of skinless poultry, and 3-to-5 ounces fish.

Foods to limit to these weekly totals: three or fewer 3-to-5-ounce servings of red and processed meats, 1 ounce whole-fat cheese, 1 fried or fast food, and 4 sweet servings. If desired, no more than 1 teaspoon of butter or stick of margarine a day.

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Olive Oil Hunter News #166

Flourless Walnut Cake Recipe, Spotlight on Egg Whites and Springform Pans, The Mediterranean “Diet” and Brain Benefits of Exercise

Craving a delicious gluten-free cake but unsatisfied with alternative flours? This recipe breaks the mold, so to speak, with nutrient-packed walnuts and cocoa. What’s more, it can be part of a healthy way of eating, one that emphasizes lifestyle—yes, the Mediterranean diet. The importance of taking a holistic approach to the way you eat is the message of the latest research showing that yo-yo dieting is dangerous rather than being a helpful weight loss solution. I’m also sharing a positive consequence that comes from the release of dopamine during exercise beyond its feel-good mood boost.

Flourless Walnut Cake

  • Flourless Walnut chocolate cake Flourless Walnut Cake

    You don’t have to forgo dessert when you want to cut out flour. Ground nuts make a delicious and healthy alternative. I’ve included a luscious chocolate glaze, but this cake is delicious on its own or topped with a dollop of whipped cream.

    Ingredients

    For the cake:

    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for the pan
    • 3 tablespoons unsweetened dark cocoa, divided use
    • 8 ounces shelled walnuts 
    • 6 large eggs, separated
    • 1 cup sugar
    • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
    • Pinch fine sea salt

    For the glaze:

    • 8 ounces dark chocolate
    • ½ cup half-and-half
    • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

    Directions

    Step 1

    Preheat your oven to 350°F with a rack in the center position. Lightly brush the bottom and sides of a 9-inch cake pan with olive oil and then place a circle of parchment paper in the bottom of the pan, brush it with oil, and sprinkle it with 1 tablespoon cocoa; rotate the pan to distribute the cocoa on the bottom and sides. Shake out any excess.

    Step 2

    In a nut grinder or food processor, grind the walnuts until medium-fine (you may need to do this in batches). Transfer to a bowl and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of cocoa and set aside.

    Step 3

    In a stand mixer fitted with a balloon whisk or in a large bowl with an electric mixer, whip the egg yolks until pale yellow and thickened, about 5 minutes. Gradually beat in the sugar, then the vanilla and the remaining olive oil, and continue beating until very thick, about 3 more minutes. Use a spatula to fold in the walnut-cocoa mixture.

    Step 4

    In a clean bowl, beat the egg whites on low speed until foamy. Add the salt and gradually increase the speed to high; beat until glossy and stiff. Working in two or three batches, gently fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Transfer to the cake pan and bake for 40-45 minutes until the cake starts to come away from the sides of the pan; the tip of a sharp knife inserted in the center should come out clean except for a few crumbs.

    Step 5

    Let the cake cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes (it will sink a bit), then invert onto another rack. If the cake doesn’t turn out easily, run a spatula around the inner rim to release it from the sides of the pan. Peel off the parchment and invert it again onto a cake plate. Let it finish cooling.

    Step 6

    For the glaze, place 7 ounces of the chocolate in a small, microwave-safe glass bowl along with the half-and-half and melt at 50% power for 3 minutes, until the chocolate is almost fully melted (if needed, microwave in additional 1-minute increments). Add the last ounce of chocolate and let sit on the counter for 2 minutes to cool down, then stir until smooth. Whisk in the olive oil until smooth. Wait until the glaze cools to room temperature, then pour over the top of the cake and use a long offset metal spatula to spread it in an even layer. Let it set for about an hour before serving.

    Yields 8 servings

Healthy Ingredient Spotlight: Salad Greens 

Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

Freezing Egg Whites

While it’s possible to freeze extra yolks and whites when a recipe calls for more of one than the other, yolks are not as forgiving as whites—better to use them in a custard or curd. Whites, on the other hand, not only freeze well but whip up perfectly after defrosting. The easiest way to freeze them is to place each white in a compartment of a large ice cube tray; when frozen, pop them out and into a freezer-safe bag, then back in the freezer. Thaw in the fridge the day before you’ll be using them.

Quick Kitchen Nugget: Storing Salad Greens

Quick Kitchen Nugget

Springform Pans

While parchment paper is a great way to avoid having a cake stick to the bottom of a cake pan, a springform pan goes a step further. It’s invaluable when making a torte or cheesecake that’s so pliable it could break down the middle when trying to get it out of a regular baking pan.

Springform pans

Once you unlatch the springform pan’s removable ring, it’s easy to slide a cake lifter under the cake or simply cover the top of the cake with a large dish and flip it to remove the bottom and peel off your parchment—I like to think of the parchment as a double layer of protection. (If the sides of the cake happen to be sticking to the ring, slide a rubber or silicone spatula between the cake and the side to gently free the cake before unlatching the ring.) Always transfer your cake from the springform base as soon as it’s cool. Cutting a cake on the base will scratch it, and there’s also the chance that your dessert could pick up the taste of the pan’s material if left on it for too long.

The classic springform pan is metal, and many come with a nonstick coating. Like most other kitchen tools, springform pans are now available in silicone, which is good for sturdier bakes, but not always for soft or dense ones or when you want to build a crust up the sides because of the material’s flexibility. Good-quality silicone pans are also less likely to leak than metal ones (the possibility of leakage is why many recipes suggest wrapping a springform pan with foil).

Springform pans are available in many sizes, from 6 inches for a petite cake up to 12 inches. For a first pan, the 9-inch size will be the most versatile.

For Your Best Health: A Monthly 5-day Modified Fast to Boost Longevity

For Your Best Health

Think Twice Before You “Diet”

Diet is a word with different meanings. When we talk about diet at the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, it’s in the context of the Mediterranean diet. Though it can help you lose weight, it’s a way of life, not something you go on and off of. And it offers a social dynamic, which makes people feel that they’re part of an inclusive group.

When most people use the word diet, they typically mean a weight-loss diet, something research has told us again and again doesn’t work. That’s because people follow such a diet for a set time and then, unfortunately, revert to old ways of eating, usually regaining the lost weight and then some…only to try another weight-loss diet in the future. A new study, done at North Carolina State University, found just how toxic yo-yo dieting, also known as weight cycling, is and how difficult it can be to break the cycle.

“Yo-yo dieting—unintentionally gaining weight and dieting to lose weight only to gain it back and restart the cycle—is a prevalent part of American culture, with fad diets and lose-weight-quick plans or drugs normalized as people pursue beauty ideals,” said Lynsey Romo, PhD, corresponding author of the study and an associate professor of communication at NC State. “Based on what we learned through this study, as well as the existing research, we recommend that most people avoid dieting, unless it is medically necessary. Our study also offers insights into how people can combat insidious aspects of weight cycling and challenge the cycle.”

For the study, researchers conducted in-depth interviews with 13 men and 23 women who had experienced weight cycling during which they lost and regained more than 11 pounds. All the study participants reported wanting to lose weight due to social stigma related to their weight and/or because they were comparing their weight to that of celebrities or peers. “Overwhelmingly, participants did not start dieting for health reasons but because they felt social pressure to lose weight,” Dr. Romo said.

The study participants also reported engaging in a variety of weight-loss strategies, which resulted in initial weight loss but eventual regain. Regaining the weight left people feeling worse about themselves than they did before they began dieting. This, in turn, often led to increasingly extreme behaviors to try to lose weight again. “For instance, many participants engaged in disordered weight management behaviors, such as binge or emotional eating, restricting food and calories, memorizing calorie counts, being stressed about what they were eating and the number on the scale, falling back on quick fixes (such as low-carb diets or diet drugs), overexercising, and avoiding social events with food to drop pounds fast,” said Dr. Romo. “Inevitably, these diet behaviors became unsustainable, and participants regained weight, often more than they had initially lost.”

“Almost all of the study participants became obsessed with their weight,” says Katelin Mueller, co-author of the study and graduate student at NC State. “Weight loss became a focal point for their lives, to the point that it distracted them from spending time with friends, family, and colleagues, and reducing weight-gain temptations such as drinking and overeating.”

“Participants referred to the experience as an addiction or a vicious cycle,” Dr. Romo said. “Individuals who were able to understand and address their toxic dieting behaviors were more successful at breaking the cycle. Strategies people used to combat these toxic behaviors included focusing on their health rather than the number on the scale, as well as exercising for fun rather than counting the number of calories they burned. Participants who were more successful at challenging the cycle were also able to embrace healthy eating behaviors, such as eating a varied diet and eating when they were hungry, rather than treating eating as something that needs to be closely monitored, controlled, or punished.”

Fitness Flash: A Surprising Advantage of Exercise 

Fitness Flash

Your Brain on Exercise

Dopamine, the neurotransmitter and hormone tied to pleasure, satisfaction, and motivation, is known to increase when you work out. Recent findings suggest it is also linked to faster reaction times during exercise. The researchers in the UK and Japan behind the discovery say it could lead to a new therapeutic pathway for cognitive health because of dopamine’s significant role in several conditions including Parkinson’s disease, schizophrenia, ADHD, addiction, and depression.

The study measured the release of dopamine in the brain using the scanning device called positron emission tomography (PET). It tracked the metabolic and biochemical activity of the cells in the body. Explained Joe Costello, PhD, of the University of Portsmouth School of Sport, Health & Exercise Science in the UK, “We know cardiovascular exercise improves cognitive performance, but the exact mechanisms behind this process have not been rigorously investigated in humans until now. Using novel brain imaging techniques, we were able to examine the role dopamine plays in boosting brain function during exercise, and the results are really promising. Our current study suggests the hormone is an important neuromodulator for improved reaction time. These findings support growing evidence that exercise prescription is a viable therapy for a host of health conditions across the lifespan.”

Women working out on exercise bikes

As part of the study, three experiments were carried out with a total of 52 men. In the first, individuals were asked to carry out cognitive tasks at rest and while cycling in the PET scanner so the team could monitor the movement of dopamine in their brain. The second used electrical muscle stimulation to test whether forced muscle movement to stimulate exercise would also improve cognitive performance. The final experiment combined both voluntary and involuntary exercise. In the experiments where voluntary exercise was carried out, cognitive performance improved. This was not the case when only forced electrical stimulation was used.

“We wanted to remove voluntary muscle movement for part of the study, to see if the process in which acute exercise improves cognitive performance is present during manufactured exercise. But our results indicate that the exercise has to be from the central signals of the brain, and not just the muscle itself,” said Soichi Ando, PhD, associate professor in the Health & Sports Science Laboratory at the University of Electro-Communications in Japan. “This suggests that when we tell our central command to move our body during a workout, that’s the process which helps the dopamine release in the brain.”

“These latest findings support our previous theory that cognitive performance during exercise is affected by changes to brain-regulating hormones, including dopamine,” added Dr. Costello. “There could also be a number of other psychophysiological factors, including cerebral blood flow, arousal, and motivation, that play a part.”

The paper, published in The Journal of Physiology, says further studies are needed and should include a range of participants, including women and older individuals, over a longer period of time to fully understand how dopamine release is linked to cognitive performance following exercise.

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Olive Oil Hunter News #163

Mini Pistachio Thumbprint Cookies Recipe, For Your Best Health: The Mediterranean Diet (Still No. 1)

Among the most important news items I share in this newsletter are results of scientific studies on the benefits of olive oil and, in a larger context, the Mediterranean diet. I love to report on research that shows how this way of eating—and living—has positive impacts on heart and brain health and can help ward off serious chronic diseases including diabetes and dementia. 

It’s also rewarding to see how the diet has been adopted here in the US and how many of our esteemed institutions, such as the American Heart Association and the Cleveland Clinic, recommend it. An annual survey that so many people appreciate reading is the U.S. News & World Report’s ranking of dietary plans or “Best Diets.” And for the seventh year in a row the Mediterranean diet triumphs in the top spot. I’ll detail the highlights of the magazine’s reasoning right after this delicious recipe for cookies you can enjoy guilt-free—in moderation, of course.

Mini Pistachio Thumbprint Cookies

  • Pistachio thumbprint cookies Mini Pistachio Thumbprint Cookies

    With a minimal amount of sugar, these cookies pack all the heart-healthy benefits of nuts, a key food—along with extra virgin olive oil—of the Mediterranean diet. Though sweets are the smallest food group on the Mediterranean diet food pyramid, we know that an occasional treat can help us stay on track with this healthful way of eating. This recipe shows that you don’t have to make huge sacrifices to enjoy it.

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup shelled pistachios
    • 1-1/2 cups almond flour
    • 1/2 cup granulated sugar
    • 2 large egg whites
    • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    • 1/2 teaspoon almond extract
    • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or paste
    • 1/4 cup raspberry or apricot all-fruit (no sugar added) preserves, such as Polaner or St. Dalfour

    Directions

    Step 1

    Preheat your oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed sheet pans with parchment paper. Use a spice or coffee bean grinder to pulverize the pistachios (you may need to do this is batches). Transfer to a large bowl along with the almond flour and sugar, and mix thoroughly.

    Step 2

    In a stand mixer or large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the egg whites and salt at a low speed until frothy, then increase the speed and beat until you get soft peaks. Briefly whip in the olive oil and the extracts. Fold the whites into the nut mixture with a large spatula until fully combined. The dough will be very firm.

    Step 3

    Using a 1-inch ice cream scoop or melon baller, make dough balls and evenly space them on the parchment-lined pans. Use your thumb to make an indentation in the top of each cookie, flattening the centers and then filling each with a half-teaspoon or so of preserves.

    Step 4

    Bake just until set, about 15 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through. Wait 5 minutes before transferring the cookies to a rack to cool. When completely cooled, store in an airtight tin. 

    Yields about 44 cookies

For Your Best Health: The Mediterranean Diet is Still No. 1

For Your Best Health

The Mediterranean Diet: Still No. 1

According to the U.S. News & World Report 2024 rankings, created in partnership with The Harris Poll and with input from a panel of leading health experts, the Mediterranean diet has once again taken the No. 1 spot in the Best Diets Overall category, thanks to its focus on diet quality and primarily plant-based foods. The Mediterranean diet also claimed the top spot in the categories Best Diets for Diabetes, Best Heart-Healthy Diets, Easiest Diets to Follow, Best Diets for Bone and Joint Health, Best Family-Friendly Diets, and Best Diets for Healthy Eating, and the No. 2 spot in the Best Weight Loss Diets and the Best Plant-Based Diets categories. 

One of the reasons it’s both adoptable and adaptable is that there are so many cuisines to choose from when looking for recipes. Dishes that are popular in Turkey and Greece will offer different tastes than those from Italy, France, or Spain or from Morocco and other North African countries. But the unifying elements are the same: the emphasis on vegetables, fruits, extra virgin olive oil, nuts, whole grains, legumes, herbs, spices, and other plant-based foods that leave you feeling satisfied; minimal food processing; and a convivial atmosphere in the kitchen and at the table. 

The Mediterranean diet also ranks high for what it leaves out:saturated fat, added sugars, and excess salt—all so prevalent in the typical American diet and so likely to leave you wanting more because foods with a low-nutrient profile are not truly satisfying. Eating them regularly also poses health risks. Eating a Mediterranean-style diet, on the other hand, translates to a longer life, a higher quality of life, and a lower risk of chronic diseases such as cancer, dementia, and heart disease.

The Mediterranean diet food pyramid is a great way to visualize the foods to focus on and how often to eat them. Whole grains, legumes, vegetables, fruit, and olive oil make up most of your daily intake. Seafood can be enjoyed a few times a week; animal proteins like poultry, eggs, cheese, and yogurt less often; and red meat less often still. But you also have a lot of leeway, so you don’t need to feel guilty about eating foods not on the pyramid. Nothing is totally eliminated, though you’re advised to eat foods like sugary desserts, butter, heavily processed foods like frozen meals, candy, and refined grains and oils sparingly.

Mediterranean Food Pyramid with Olive Oil and recommended servings
Mediterranean Food Pyramid

To get started on the Mediterranean diet, or to more closely follow it, U.S. News & World Report suggests these tips:

  • Think of meat as your side dish and whole grains or vegetables as your main dish. 
  • Look beyond Greek and Italian cuisines for inspiration—in all, 22 countries border the Mediterranean Sea!
  • As with any diet, do some advance meal planning so you won’t be tempted by convenience foods after a long day at work. For instance, cook up a batch of grains or lentils on the weekend to use for meals throughout the following week.
  • Make water your main source of hydration. Wine is considered optional and then only in moderation—one to two glasses per day for men and one glass per day for women.

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