Reference: Tessier A-J, Cortese M, Yuan C, et al. Consumption of olive oil and dietary quality and risk of dementia-related death. JAMA Network Open. 2024;7(5):e2410021. doi:10.1001/jamanetworkopen.2024.10021.
A recently published analysis of two large, long-term studies found that consuming half a tablespoon or more of olive oil per day lowered the risk of dying of dementia by up to 34% in both women and men. The protective effect of olive oil consumption was even greater in women.
More than 92,000 participants from the Nurses’ Health Study (NHS) and the Health Professionals Follow-Up Study (HPFS) were included in this analysis. The NHS started in 1976 and enrolled 121,700 female registered nurses (ages 30–55). The HPFS began in 1986 as a similar study in men, enrolling 51,525 male healthcare professionals (ages 40–75).
Study participants responded every other year to detailed food frequency questionnaires (FFQ) about their consumption of specific foods. Questions about olive oil were added in 1990. Total olive oil intake was determined by three responses: olive oil used for salad dressings, olive oil added to food or bread, and olive oil used for baking or frying at home.
Olive oil intake frequency was categorized as follows:
• Never, or less than once per month • Less than 4.5 grams (about one teaspoon) per day • Between 4.5 and 7 grams per day • More than 7 grams (about half a tablespoon) per day
About two-thirds of the study participants (65.6%) were women, about a third (34.4%) were men, and the average age at the start of the study was 56 years. Each participant’s FFQs from 1990 to 2014 (or for as long as the participant remained in the study) were totaled and averaged. Average olive oil intake was 1.3 grams per day in both studies.
Participants in the highest olive oil intake group—half a tablespoon or more of olive oil per day— reduced their risk of dying of dementia by 28% to 34%, compared to study participants who never or very rarely consumed olive oil. These results were regardless of other dietary habits and factored in socio-demographic and lifestyle differences.
Deaths due to dementia were confirmed by physician’s review of medical records, autopsy reports, or death certificates of study participants.
It has been proposed that consuming olive oil may lower the risk of dementia-related death by improving blood vessel health, yet the results of this analysis were not impacted by hypertension or high cholesterol in participants.
Limitations of this analysis include its predominantly non-Hispanic white population of healthcare professionals, which reduces the ability to generalize these results across more diverse populations. Also, the FFQs did not dis-tinguish among types of olive oil, which differ in their amounts of polyphenols and other bioactive compounds.
Horiatiki Salad Recipe and The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil
I’m a huge fan of both Greek and Middle Eastern salads, the ingredients of which are not only delicious but also mainstays of the MIND (Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay) diet, a way of eating designed for brain health. It’s an offshoot of the super-healthy Mediterranean diet and the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diet. Why the distinction? Because the latest research on the MIND diet shows it can slow aging as well as reduce dementia risk. Add this to the list of the benefits of olive oil—it’s one of the super foods that MIND suggests including every day.
Seared Scallops with Farro Recipe, Spotlight on Farro and Scallops, A Fresh Look at Health and Fitness Apps, Plus 15 Minutes to Change Your Health
Craving shellfish, but hesitant to make it at home? Scallops are a great seafood choice and simple to prepare—a quick sear is all it takes for these sweet bites. My recipe pairs them with farro, a fantastic ancient grain. Both are high in nutrients and fit perfectly in a health-conscious diet. If you’re looking for more ways to boost health, two studies from researchers at the University of South Australia are full of easy-to-implement ideas to help people reach their goals.
Seared Scallops with Farro
Healthy Ingredient Spotlight
Get Familiar with Farro
Ancient grains are having a resurgence thanks to growing interest in eating foods that haven’t been refined or altered genetically to make mass production easy. Farro is one of these tasty whole grains though it might not be as well-known as barley and quinoa…yet!
Grown for centuries in the swath of land in the Middle East known as the Fertile Crescent, farro’s popularity first spread across Europe, notably Italy. Its nutty flavor and toothsome texture make it extremely versatile—it’s delicious as a hot side dish, a cold salad, an enrichment to soups and stews, and a breakfast bowl with yogurt and fruit.
Rich in protein, farro is also a great source of fiber if you choose whole, which is intact, or semi-pearled, which has some of the bran removed. As with dried beans, whole farro benefits from an overnight soak in water before cooking on the stove—put 1 cup in a bowl, cover with water, and pop in the fridge. To cook, drain the farro and add to a pot along with 3 cups of water, bring to a boil and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes; the texture should be similar to pasta cooked al dente, slightly firm and chewy, not mushy or gummy.
To extend shelf life, store farro with other whole grains and nuts in the fridge or freezer.
Quick Kitchen Nugget
Selecting Scallops
With their sweet taste and firm texture, scallops are a succulent seafood that sautés quickly. You can enjoy them in a traditional garlic and parsley sauce or a tomato-based preparation, or season them with exotic spices. They can be costly but there’s no waste and they’re a great source of protein and other nutrients, including some of the B vitamins and the minerals selenium, zinc, iron, and phosphorus.
Since scallops aren’t typically sold in the shell, like oysters, clams, and other shellfish, you don’t run the risk of getting an “old maid,” or a piece that doesn’t open. But there’s more to choosing scallops than meets the eye. Specifically, you want to always ask for “dry scallops,” which are natural, and avoid “wet” scallops. As the experts at New York’s famed Fulton Fish Market, which ships scallops nationwide, explain, “wet scallops are treated with water and a chemical solution (sodium tripolyphosphate, or STPP) to preserve [them] and keep them white. They have a faint chemical taste and are near-impossible to sear because of the high water content. They release water when cooked, causing them to steam instead of sear.” Always ask if the scallops aren’t marked as being dry.
Unlike other farmed seafood, line-farmed scallops, often produced by small-scale farmers in Maine, are a sustainable alternative to wild-caught. They feed naturally in the ocean as do other farmed bivalves, like mussels and oysters.
The big question is often whether to buy sea scallops—the large round ones—or small, nugget-like bay scallops. The answer often depends on taste and timing. Sea scallops are usually available year-round, while bay scallops, notably the famed ones from the Northeast’s Nantucket Bay and Peconic Bay, are available in season, which runs from November through March.
For Your Best Health
A Fresh Look at Health and Fitness Apps
Calorie counters and step trackers have sometimes gotten mixed reviews when it comes to their usefulness as diet and exercise aids. But a new analysis by researchers at the University of South Australia (UniSA) in Adelaide that looked at data from 206,873 people across 47 studies found that digital health tools, like mobile apps, websites, and text messages, can indeed pack a real punch when it comes to getting results.
Specifically, electronic and mobile health interventions can help people achieve:
1,329 more steps per day
55 minutes more moderate-to-vigorous exercise per week
45 minutes more overall physical activity per week
7 hours less sedentary behavior per week
103 fewer calories consumed per day
20 percent more fruits and vegetables consumed per day
5.5 grams less saturated fat consumed per day
1.9 kilograms of weight loss over 12 weeks
Improved sleep quality
Less severe insomnia
“With the rise of preventable chronic diseases like obesity, cardiovascular disease, and type 2 diabetes, finding mechanisms that can help reduce people’s risk is important,” said UniSA’s Dr. Ben Singh, the paper’s lead researcher. “Our study found that digital and mobile health interventions can have a positive effect on people’s health and well-being, not only helping them to increase their physical activity and reduce sedentary behavior, but also improving their diet and quality of sleep.
“Given the wide accessibility and popularity of health apps, their capability to tailor information and deliver timely reminders and prompts, and scalability to diverse populations, they could be a very effective intervention to promote better health. Making positive changes to your health and well-being can be a challenge—it’s always easier to add kilos to your waistline than it is to reduce them—but by incorporating digital tools into your everyday life, you’re more likely to achieve positive outcomes.”
The research identified consistent findings across different age groups, health behaviors, interventions, and health populations, indicating that digital health apps could help underpin broader public health campaigns. While the researchers recommend more study to better understand the impacts among specific groups of people, at the top line, digital health apps appear to be a win-win for all. Their study were published in the open-access journal npj Digital Medicine.
Fitness Flash
Got 15 Minutes to Change Your Health?
In a separate study led by UniSA’s Dr. Singh, researchers found that it takes just 15 minutes and a touch of gamification to put people involved in company wellness programs on the path to success. Assessing results from 11,575 participants across 73 Australian, New Zealand, and UK companies, UniSA researchers found that a gamified six-week workplace wellness program called the 15 Minute Challenge led to substantial increases in physical activity levels, with 95 percent of participants meeting (36 percent) or exceeding (59 percent) physical activity guidelines.
In addition, participants’ average daily physical activity levels increased by 12 minutes per day (85 minutes per week) throughout the six-week challenge, with a median daily exercise duration of 45 minutes. Participants also reported improvements in fitness (14 percent), energy (12 percent), overall health (8 percent), sleep quality (8 percent), and mood (7.1 percent).
The WHO recommends that adults ages 18 to 64 do at least 150 to 300 minutes of moderate-intensity aerobic physical activity or at least 75 to 150 minutes of vigorous-intensity aerobic physical activity over a week.
“Regular physical activity provides significant physical and mental health benefits,” said Dr. Singh. “It plays a key role in preventing and managing chronic disease, such as cardiovascular disease, type 2 diabetes, and cancer, and it also reduces symptoms of depression and anxiety. Yet around half of Australian adults do not meet the recommended levels of physical activity. With the majority of adults spending much of their waking time working, workplaces present ideal settings for promoting physical activity. The 15 Minute Challenge presents an effective mechanism to help boost employee health and well-being in the workplace.
“In this study we showed that as little as 15 minutes of physical activity per day can make a big difference when it comes to people’s health and well-being. And while the program only required 15 minutes of daily activity, most people tended to do more. The 15-minute goal essentially serves as an accessible starting point, especially for people who are particularly sedentary. So, it reduces barriers to entry and helps build the habit of regular exercise. Ultimately, the 15 minutes is a catalyst for increased physical activity, with many participants ending up exceeding the minimum goal and moving closer to or surpassing national recommendations.”
UniSA professor Carol Maher, PhD, a co-researcher on the study, said that part of the program’s success is in the gamification and the social aspects of the app. “Encouraging and keeping your teammates accountable through friendly competition is central to the 15 Minute Challenge app, and a key part of what motivates participants to stay committed and connected,” Dr. Maher said. “The program encourages team collaboration to track rankings and display cumulative exercise. Achievements are clearly noted, and successes are celebrated. So, it’s certainly a tool that engages people to work together and have fun.
“What we need to remember, however, is that addressing inactivity is everyone’s responsibility. So, if an employer can initiate an effective, enjoyable, and cost-effective option to support their employees, it’s a win-win. Physically active employees are happier and healthier; they are more productive, more satisfied, less stressed, and less likely to get sick. Sustainable, scalable initiatives like the 15 Minute Challenge that can support employees to change their health and well-being for the better should be on every employer’s agenda.”
This dish comes together in short order yet makes for an elegant presentation. The technique also lends itself to shrimp (if you make that swap, use one pound of peeled shrimp).
Ingredients
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound dry sea scallops
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup white wine or clam juice
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups cooked farro
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Directions
Step 1
Mix the onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, salt, and pepper in a pie plate. Heat a large skillet. While the pan is heating, pat the scallops with a paper towel and dredge in the spice mixture. When the pan is ready, add the olive oil and the scallops. Sear the scallops until browned and crispy on the edges, about two minutes on each side, then transfer them to a dish.
Step 2
Add the minced garlic to the pan and sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the wine or clam juice and add the butter, swirling it until it melts into the pan juices. Add the cooked farro and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the parsley. Mound equal amounts of the farro on 4 plates and add equal amounts of scallops.
Delivered Fresh from the Southern Hemisphere A Trio of Australia’s Finest Extra Virgin Olive Oils Ready to Enhance Autumnal Meals and Celebrations
Meticulously chosen by your Olive Oil Hunter, working hand in hand with the country’s leading artisanal producers.
Rich in the polyphenols that impart extra virgin olive oil’s unique depth of flavor and hold the secret to so many of its health benefits.
Rushed to the US by jet to maximize freshness and certified to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil by an independent lab.
Come with me to the magical land Down Under! I make the journey to Australia at this time every year to hunt for the freshest olive oil for Club members. Oz has a dynamic New World olive culture with the opposite harvest season from the Mediterranean. Though I’ve been visiting for more than 20 years, I remain fascinated by the sights, sounds, and, of course, the aromas and tastes I encounter. As you savor each of the selections in this quarter’s trio, know that my Merry Band of Tasters and I captured the essence of Oz in these three exquisite blends.
First Stop: Melbourne
Home base for my visits is the enchanting capital of Victoria, the southeastern state with beautiful topographic variety—picturesque coastlines, alpine landscapes, and sandy deserts. The city of Melbourne is a vibrant melting pot of cultures, with impressive Italian and Asian contingents, not to mention the largest Greek community outside of Greece. Reconnecting with our producers who are also dear friends is especially fun, because we often do so around convivial tables at amazing restaurants—meals that inspired the recipes in this Pressing Report, so you, too, can savor the flavors of this country.
John and Marjan Symington of Oasis joined me and my Merry Band of Tasters as we immersed ourselves in the hustle and bustle of the Queen Victoria Market, with its wealth of vegetable and fruit merchants and cheese and fishmongers. At a stand with Australian olives—but no Australian olive oil—Marjan, president of the Goulburn Strathbogie Olive Oil Association, immediately struck up a conversation with the proprietor, suggesting he add it to his offerings ASAP!
With Mick Labbozzetta, the esteemed estate manager at Kyneton, we returned to Brunetti’s on Lygon Street, my favorite “Little Italy” neighborhood on the planet, for delicious pastries and rich coffee. When we passed a shop dedicated to cappuccino makers, we remarked at how the coffee culture in Australia has exploded—just a decade or so ago, it was barely on the radar (by contrast, sweets, as you’ll see in the dessert section of this report’s recipes, have always been top of mind!).
With Melissa Wong, my trusted Aussie advisor, food authority, and Michelin-star restauranteur, we discovered our new favorite Asian restaurant, Old Beijing, and ate our fill of Peking duck, stir fries, soup dumplings, and vibrant Chinese greens. We also indulged in local seafood at the Stokehouse in the St. Kilda Beach section of Melbourne, near Melissa’s home, a meal that starred crayfish with shellfish bisque sauce, yellowfin tuna with tomato dressing, and perfectly grilled King George whiting.
Shortages Span the Globe
While the main event of every visit to Oz is the grand tasting Melissa organizes for us to choose oils and create blends for you, my discerning Club member, that was just the beginning of what turned out to be a seven-day marathon of tastings to perfect our selections.
When I’m in Australia, I always want to check in with Leandro Ravetti, one of the world’s most respected olive authorities, to get his insights into the current season and, most important, his input on the olive oils I’m considering. Longtime friend of the club, Leandro is a master miller who champions the highest standards. He confirmed that the worldwide olive shortage had made its way around the globe and that production at many Aussie olive oil farms was down about 45 percent this season. As we saw in Europe, this has led some producers to leave their fruit to ripen until the olives are black and full of low-quality oil, in contrast to our collaborators, who harvest during the magic window—just the right moment, when the fruit is still green and at the pinnacle of flavor and health benefits. (Mass-market producers also rely on heat in the extraction process for a higher yet inferior-tasting yield.)
“As a counterpoint to Europe, which has experienced three dry years in a row, we had three wet years in a row,” Leandro explained. While he expects conditions to soon normalize, he’s always thinking ahead to avoid future problems. An ongoing concern centers on frost, which can harm the tiny buds as they start to form. “In countries in the Southern Hemisphere, where winters are not normally very wet, like Australia, the frost risk in early spring is high,” he said.
In some areas, there can be frost at ground level while the air just above, at five to fifteen meters, is warmer. Leandro’s ingenious solution is to use special fans that draw in the warmer air to raise the ground temperature and protect the buds that will become olives. I admire the way Leandro shares his expertise with fellow producers and the deep camaraderie they enjoy—there’s no sense of one-up-manship in this country. I also value how generous Leandro is with his time when I visit, despite his having one of the most demanding schedules I’ve ever seen.
Our Olive Oil Odyssey
The magic window for harvesting was somewhat unusual this year, and certain varieties were staying green on the trees for weeks. This led to numerous tasting rounds—challenging and fun at the same time. To visit the farms we planned to work with—Oasis, Nullamunjie, and Kyneton—we embarked on a wide, 700-mile loop around Melbourne. Being right at the mills is like being a kid in a candy store, indulging in all the sweets with abandon! It’s always pure joy to spend time with the millers, sample each farm’s distinctive olive oils, and work together to perfect our blends. I invite you to taste the fruits of our labor and to catch up with our chosen producers in the pages that follow.
Happy drizzling!
T. J. Robinson The Olive Oil Hunter®
This Quarter’s First Selection
Producer: Oasis Olives, Kialla, Goulburn Valley, Victoria, Australia 2024
Olive Varieties: Picual, Coratina
Flavor Profile: Mild
We’re all connected to our smartphones, but during my time with John and Marjan Symington, John could barely put his down—his cell rarely stopped ringing with people looking for olive oil from his glorious farms. “Because there’s so little olive oil to go around this season, folks like us that did have olives to produce oil are very busy,” John said candidly. “We’ve got quite a good crop in Kialla—it’s been a good season for us.”
Oasis Olives, the venture he started as a retirement passion project, seems to be keeping John busier than he was during his successful career in information technology. To say that he and Marjan have come a long way in the 14 years since they bought their first groves—on a ramshackle farm with much neglected trees—is an understatement. They recently replanted 40 hectares from the latest farm they acquired, a parcel adjacent to theirs, because a lot of those trees were so neglected. My Merry Band of Tasters and I are already looking forward to the fruit the new trees will bear.
Why is Oasis a perennial award winner? “The biggest factor that can impact the flavor profiles of olive oils is the climate,” John said. “Kialla is an environment where the trees have a very easy life in general, whereas if you go more toward South Australia, it’s a much drier climate. In other areas, where it’s very wet, the oils tend to be more washed out. This year Mother Nature gave us reasonably mild temperatures right through the growing season. We had a dry summer and dry autumn too.” Credit also goes to John and Marjan’s tenacity and their determination to produce olive oils that discerning palates, including our Club members, will love. That their kids are getting more involved in the operation brings the Symingtons a double dose of bliss.
While in Kialla, I had a chance to catch up with Scott Sanders, an international olive oil consultant who joined Oasis in 2016 and quickly became the farm manager. Scott grew up on his own family’s farm in northwest New South Wales and developed a deep love of the land. At the young age of 20, he became fascinated with the world of olive oil and “traveled to Italy and Spain to learn the art of olive oil making,” he recounted. Scott and the Symingtons share a commitment to sustainability—sheep are used to control weeds, olive pomace (what’s left of the olive flesh after milling) is a natural fertilizer for the land, and even the olive pits get a second life as a fuel source.
Because Scott felt that some varietals had it a little too easy this year, he decided to cut the irrigation to the Picual and the Coratina trees destined to be contenders for the Club in order to stress them and, in turn, bump up the polyphenols along with the flavor and aroma. “Stressing the trees also facilitates harvesting. If the trees are too ‘happy,’ they don’t want to let the fruit go,” he explained.
“Scott’s breadth of experience is incredible—he’s worked at olive mills from Australia to Spain to California,” John said. “Scott has seen a lot of different environments, a lot of different olives, so there’s not much that comes up that’s new to him.” He’s also been imparting his wisdom to Antonio and Domenico, the Italian millers who, for the past three harvests, have flown in from Puglia to run the mill. And what an olive oil this talented Oasis team has made exclusively for the Club. For the last few years, I’ve been waiting for an oil that could match the perfect—and elusive— Picual that John crafted for us many years ago. Our mild selection is early-harvest Picual at its best. Enhanced with a touch of Coratina, it hits the mark.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
This is a highly aromatic blend of Picual and Coratina with amazing flair. The distinctive aromas of grass, tomato leaf, and banana are layered with hints of pear, apple, almond, oregano, sweet basil, baby lettuces, white pepper, and wheatgrass. On the palate, we noted the sweetness of dried tropical fruits and Sungold cherry tomatoes, along with lemon, hazelnut, basil, mixed spring lettuces, and the bitterness and spiciness of baby arugula. Luxurious in the mouth, it has a long, spicy finish.
You’ll love it for mild vinaigrettes, salads with fruits, tomato bruschetta, egg dishes, mild cheeses like brie and goat, yogurt and granola breakfast bowls, nutty banana bread* and muffins, chicken and leek pie, mild fin fish, crispy potatoes, pastas with fresh tomato-based sauces, glazed carrots, squash and pumpkin dishes, smoothies, and tiramisù.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
This Quarter’s Second Selection
Producer: Nullamunjie Blend, Tongio, Victoria, Australia 2024
The effervescent and unstoppable Annie Paterson has owned, developed, and run the Nullamunjie farm, with its olive groves, vegetable garden, seasonal café, and sheep, since 1998. Born and reared in the Australian ranch country, as a young woman Annie traveled to Greece, where she was mesmerized by the silvery-leafed olive trees she glimpsed through the tour bus window. She dreamt of growing olives in Australia, with its similar climate. Decades later, after she and her husband had raised their four children, Annie acquired land at the foot of Mount Stalwell, in East Gippsland, with the Tambo River running through it, and made her dream a reality.
She is one of the original wave of entrepreneurs who put ultra-premium Aussie olive oil on the map—and, as the Down Under olive oil scene changes, Annie, a true pioneer, remains both stalwart and flexible, maintaining impeccable standards while incorporating innovative techniques to protect her trees and the natural world around them.
To deter cockatoos and other birds from eating olives off the trees, Annie has debuted a new sound cannon, which her crew demonstrated for me with a deep “FOOM!” As we all reflected, though, Annie is such a softie that she’ll say to an individual bird, “Oh, but I like you, you can stay.”
Speaking of staying, Annie made me laugh so hard as she described a wombat that has recently decided to live down the hill from her home. The furry, dog-sized marsupial has carved out a massive burrow beneath an old olive tree—“A cave, a cave it was; I could almost walk into it without crouching down,” exclaimed Annie—with the tree’s roots hanging down “like stalactites.” No word whether Annie is going to charge him rent.
In 2023, Annie purchased the neighboring farm, historically named Tongio Station—“The big old properties in Australia used to be called stations,” she explains—to give Nullamunjie an additional 800 acres. This season, her team planted close to 1,200 baby trees. I couldn’t wait to see them.
On our way to the farm, about four hours from Melbourne, my Merry Band of Tasters and I stopped at Bruthen Bakery to pick up goodies for the team. We brought boxes of vanilla slices and meat pies, including my favorite, a succulent steak-and-pepper pie—essentially pastry-wrapped pot roast.
Upon our arrival, operations manager Riley Nivens hopped into his 4×4 to take us around the new groves as we munched on pastries. The baby trees were almost invisible against the hills behind them, so tiny, so fragile—barely the size of corn stalks. Solar panels, elegantly arranged in a nearby clearing, captured energy from the sun to run the irrigation pumps. These baby trees won’t be mature enough to produce oil for several years, so, right now, the main concern is keeping them vertical. In spite of an electric fence, deer and kangaroos bound out of the surrounding hills and flatten the infant saplings in their path. On a daily basis, Riley inspects the rows and gingerly repositions or replants any trampled trees.
“The wonder that is Riley,” Annie praised, “he saved us all.” She added, in the style of an auto-racing commentator: “He continues to impress.” Annie alluded to the curveball that Mother Nature chucked at Nullamunjie during the growing season: torrential rainfall that knocked the blossoms off the Frantoio trees, which meant no olives. Thankfully, the other varietals—Correggiola, Leccino, Coratina, Pendolino—flowered a few weeks later and benefited from the rain.
Annie’s olives are harvested and pressed together as a “farm blend,” always recognizable as Nullamunjie olive oil, even as the flavor profile takes on different nuances and dimensions from year to year. The unique terroir gives Nullamunjie its special character and soul.
Coratina comes to the forefront in this blend, providing backbone and a hint of bitterness, indicating health-promoting polyphenols, to create a beautifully harmonious and food-friendly oil. When I asked Annie (as I always do) for her latest, greatest recipe using olive oil, she said, “I still think the best way to use olive oil is to put it on a freshly grilled steak.” We concurred that, ideally, this would be a grass-fed steak, with a little extra fat for flavor, and fresh-pressed Nullamunjie oil drizzled generously over the meat as it comes off the grill. Mmmmmmm. I hope you’ll take our recommendation and also come up with your own!
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
The fresh aromas of green grass, Belgian endive, Tuscan kale, celery, and fennel perfume this blend of Italian varietals. There are notes of oregano, rosemary, wild mint, green apple, almond, walnut, pine nut, and lemon zest. We tasted radicchio, Swiss chard, baby spinach, walnut skin, vanilla, rosemary, the astringency of green tea and lime zest, and the persistent spiciness of black peppercorns.
It will elevate crusty breads, shaved fennel and citrus salad, cheeses, and charcuterie boards. It will enhance lamb kebabs with mixed grilled vegetables,* pot roast, roasted turkey, prawn and pork fried rice, bouillabaisse, pastas with pesto, pizza, focaccia, barley and farro, lentils, white beans and other legumes, Brussels sprouts, cabbage or cauliflower steaks, vanilla ice cream, sautéed apples, lamingtons, and other desserts with chocolate.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
This Quarter’s Third Selection
Producer: Kyneton Olive Oil, Bylands Estate, Victoria, Australia 2024
I first visited Kyneton, about an hour’s drive north of Melbourne, in 2009. It’s a beautiful place—I especially love the lake surrounded by palm trees. I remember when, the next year, their state-of-the-art Pieralisi mill was installed. Ever since, it’s been an upward trajectory, as Kyneton’s premier oils have won multiple awards in Australia and abroad. Kyneton is always poised to upgrade the mill and other equipment, but the most recent enhancements added to the beauty of the landscape: a newly built gazebo, wood-fired oven, and fire pit. My only regret was not arriving one day sooner. I was dismayed to learn I’d just missed homemade porchetta sandwiches—dang!
Food—including olive oil, of course—is one of the things estate manager Mick Labbozzetta and I have bonded over. For years, Mick, always wearing his trademark newsboy cap, has introduced me, one by one, to his favorite salumerias, formaggerias, pizzerias, and gelaterias, a reflection of Australia’s large Italian population. Naturally, we bring a bottle of fresh-pressed olive oil to drizzle everywhere we go. (I don’t consider an oil properly vetted unless I’ve paired it with a variety of foods. I urge you to do the same, dear Club member!)
Mick’s love of Italian delights comes naturally. His father was born in Calabria, Italy, and was among a large wave of Italian immigrants who arrived on the Australian continent in the mid-twentieth century. In an ode to his homeland, Papa planted about 20 olive trees on the family’s property. Born in this country and raised in Adelaide, Mick speaks fluent Italian thanks to his dad, whose birthplace Mick will be visiting this fall. Family means the world to Mick, and, though he has no intention of retiring, all his improvements at Kyneton, which include building his impressive team, are with his grandchildren in mind, to bring them into this very special world.
As a boy, Mick picked the olives from his dad’s trees. The olives were then pressed by a neighbor. Today, the Kyneton mill is trusted to press the olives of local farmers. Testament to Kyneton’s skills and passion for olive cultivation, the team recently took over the management of a nearby olive grove of 14,000 trees, primarily Koroneiki and Frantoio. The owner would bring his olives for pressing, but the yield didn’t match the size of the grove—indicating that the trees needed tending. These are very small trees, Mick told me, that will undoubtedly thrive from the TLC that the Kyneton team will lavish on them—my mouth is already watering in anticipation!
Mick is quick to deflect praise for the estate’s successes to his team, headed by native Calabrian Carmelo Tramontana and the peripatetic Davide Bruno, a master miller who travels from Liguria each year to oversee the harvest. This year, they were joined for the first time by Arturo Morara, another—you guessed it—Italian. With experience working at Italian mills, Arturo explained to me that he had been looking for an opportunity to hone his talents on an Australian olive farm during the harvest, in effect doubling the amount of experience he was gaining each year. Kyneton was a natural fit. I’m convinced this intersection of New and Old World techniques and sensibilities makes Kyneton oils special. “Australian made, Italian heritage” is the company’s very apt motto. The addition of a team member did not manage to reduce anyone’s hours—20-hour days are still the norm during the harvest to create the exquisite olive oils for which the farm is known.
My Merry Band of Tasters and I had a scandalously good time perfecting the blend I’ve selected for you, primarily because we had so many great options to work with this year—small batches of different varietals harvested at different times and blended in different proportions, all fresh from the mill. Davide and his team constantly monitored the trees, identifying which olives were at their peak. Davide has a sixth sense about these drupes, and, on occasion, his intuition even overrides the lab’s ripeness analyses. After five years of collaboration, he understands what flavor and aroma profiles I want for my Club members and in my own kitchen. I can’t wait for you to taste this bold liquid gold.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
A vibrant blend of Aussie-grown Italian varietals, it entices with aromas of kale, arugula, fennel, chopped culinary herbs, and hazelnut, and hints of green bell pepper, lime zest, green peppercorns, and tomato vine. We tasted fennel, artichoke, Belgian endive, dried banana, green walnut, parsley, thyme, dried chiles, the freshness of wild mint and citrus peel, and the spiciness and bitterness of watercress.
This oil will enhance aged and blue cheeses, Caesar salad, Asian mushroom salad with ginger tamari vinaigrette,* grilled steaks and chops, apricot chicken, pan-seared fish steaks with caramelized fennel, sardines, curries, Tex-Mex chili, pasta Bolognese, stuffed peppers, green beans, kale dishes, holiday stuffings, bok choy and Chinese broccoli, black beans, hearty soups and stews, carrot cake, and nut-based desserts.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
Olive Oil and Health
Kudos from Club Members
Who needs butter? Since I joined this club, I have not eaten butter in or on anything. I have toast every morning with a generous spreading of one of my oils. This makes sure that I get it every day just in case I may not need it in our meals that day!
Jeani R.Auburn, WA
Cholesterol Lowering Miracle! We ran out the end of May!!!! These awesome fresh EVOOs have worked miracles on my husband’s stubborn cholesterol numbers and are helping to keep my blood pressure down! Thank you! I ordered an extra gift set of the Chilean oils so we don’t run out anymore, on top of my membership shipment. We use them in so many different ways.
Rebecca A.Urbana, IL
The best olive oil ever! We joined the Club, got the first shipment this week, tonight a delicious salad with the amazing Alonso Olive Oil, it was the best olive oil ever! Makes each dish stand out.
Roasted Pear Salad Recipe, Spotlight on Pears and Halloumi, plus Another Reason to Avoid Ultra-Processed Foods
Do you love the crispness of autumn and one of the season’s most succulent fruits—pears? Then you’ll love the following recipe, which highlights pears along with one of my favorite cheeses, halloumi. Eating whole foods enhanced with natural ingredients like extra virgin olive oil is a tasty way to get healthy nutrients at every meal. And my dish shows how easy it is to enjoy delicious flavors in just a few steps. Processed foods, on the other hand, might offer greater convenience, but they often come at a cost. I’m sharing the details of a very important report from a group of noted scientists about questionable ingredients in packaged foods that fly under the oversight of the FDA. Though many should probably be considered and called out as additives, an FDA rule allows them to be termed “generally recognized as safe,” or GRAS, and added to products without scrutiny. It’s another serious situation of buyer beware. I hope you’ll read the summary in its entirety.
Roasted Pear Salad
Healthy Ingredient Spotlight
Halloumi
Members of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club know I’m a huge fan of halloumi (yes, there’s even a video of me grilling it on our Facebook page!). Halloumi not only tastes delicious, but also has the perfect texture for grilling—the mild and slightly briny cheese develops a wonderful smoky flavor while holding its shape.
This cheese, made from sheep’s (and sometimes goat’s) milk, hails from the island nation of Cyprus in the Mediterranean where it is made according to centuries-old tradition. Just as I always shop for true Parmigiano-Reggiano and not “parmesan” cheese, buy true halloumi by looking for the special Protected Designation of Origin or PDO mark that certifies it was made there.
Quick Kitchen Nugget
Choosing Pears
There are many sweet and succulent pears to enjoy throughout the fall. If you tend to reach for Bartletts as a default, it’s time to try varieties like Seckel, Comice, and Concorde pears. While any pear that’s ripe can be eaten raw, when you want to roast, poach, or bake pears for special dishes, do choose the firmer ones that won’t fall apart at hot temperatures—Anjou and Bosc.
If you’ll use them within a few days, keep pears at room temperature. Indeed, they may not be ripe enough to eat when you first get them home because, unlike many other fruits, they must be picked well before they ripen (or else their texture will turn grainy or mushy). If you want to slow the ripening process, keep them in the fridge until 2-3 days before you’ll eat them.
For Your Best Health
Another Reason to Avoid Ultra-Processed Foods
The article “Regulation of Added Substances in the Food Supply by the Food and Drug Administration Human Foods Program,” published in theAmerican Journal of Public Health, details how a legal loophole is allowing unsafe ingredients in US foods. Here is the summary of the findings provided by New York University, where the first author is an associate professor.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is tasked with overseeing the safety of the US food supply, setting requirements for nutrition labeling, working with companies on food recalls, and responding to outbreaks of foodborne illness. But when it comes to additives already in our food and the safety of certain ingredients, the FDA has taken a hands-off approach.
The current FDA process allows the food industry to regulate itself when it comes to thousands of added ingredients—by determining for itself which ingredients should be considered “generally recognized as safe,” or GRAS—with companies deciding on their own whether to disclose the ingredients’ use and the underlying safety data to the FDA. As a result, many new substances have been added to our food supply without any government oversight.
“Both the FDA and the public are unaware of how many of these ingredients—which are most commonly found in ultra-processed foods—are in our food supply,” said Jennifer Pomeranz, JD, MPH, associate professor of public health policy and management at New York University School of Global Public Health and the study’s first author.
Since 1958, the FDA has been responsible for evaluating the safety of new chemicals and substances added to foods before they go to market. However, food safety laws distinguish between “food additives” and “GRAS” ingredients. While compounds considered “food additives” must be reviewed and approved by the FDA before they are used in foods, ingredients considered GRAS are exempt from these regulations.
The GRAS designation was initially established for ingredients already found in foods—for instance, vinegar and spices. But under a rule used since 1997, the FDA has allowed the food industry to independently determine which substances fall into this category, including many new substances added to foods. Rather than disclose the new use of these ingredients and the accompanying safety data for FDA review, companies can do their own research to evaluate an ingredient’s safety before going to market, without any notification or sharing of the findings. The FDA suggests—but does not require—that companies voluntarily notify the agency about the use of such substances and their findings, but in practice, many such substances have been added without notification.
In their analysis, the researchers review the history of the FDA’s and industry’s approach around adding these new compounds to foods and identify the lack of any real oversight. This includes a federal court case in 2021 upholding the FDA’s hands-off approach. “Notably, the court did not find that the FDA’s practices on GRAS ingredients support the safety of our food supply,” said Pomeranz. “The court only ruled that the FDA’s practice was not unlawful.”
“As a result of the FDA’s policy, the food industry has been free to ‘self-GRAS’ new substances they wish to add to foods, without notifying FDA or the public,” said senior author Dariush Mozaffarian, MD, DrPH, director of the Food is Medicine Institute and distinguished professor at the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University. “There are now hundreds, if not thousands, of substances added to our foods for which the true safety data are unknown to independent scientists, the government, and the public.”
According to the researchers, the FDA also lacks a formal approach and adequate resources to review those food additives and GRAS substances already on the market. After an ingredient is added to foods, if research later suggests harms, the FDA can review the new data and, if needed, take action to reduce or remove it from foods. In a rare exception, the FDA announced in March that it would be reviewing 21 chemicals found in foods, including several food ingredients—a tiny fraction of the thousands of food additives and GRAS substances used today.
An example of the 21 food additives to be reviewed is potassium bromate, a chemical added to baked goods and drinks with evidence that it may cause cancer. Potassium bromate is banned in Europe, Canada, China, and Japan. California recently passed a law to ban its use, along with three other chemicals, and similar bills have been introduced in Illinois, New York, and Pennsylvania. “This is a stark example of the FDA’s regulatory gap,” said Pomeranz. “We’re seeing states starting to act to fill the regulatory void left by the FDA’s inaction over substances increasingly associated with harm.”
The FDA’s oversight of GRAS ingredients on the market is also limited. The agency rarely revokes GRAS designation (an FDA inventory only shows 15 substances that were considered GRAS and then later determined to not be), nor does the FDA review foods on an ongoing basis with GRAS ingredients that can be safe when added at low levels but not in large quantities—for instance, caffeine, salt, and sugar.
“In 1977, the FDA approved caffeine as a GRAS substance for use in sodas at a low level: 0.02%,” said Pomeranz. “But today, caffeine is added to energy drinks at levels far exceeding this, which is causing caffeine-related hospitalizations and even deaths. Given that the FDA regulates the use of GRAS substances, the agency could set limits on the amount of caffeine in energy drinks.”
“The sheer number of GRAS substances and food additives on the market, combined with the lack of knowledge about the existence of self-GRAS ingredients, insufficient resources, and documented time delays even for well-supported action, renders reliance on post-market authority flawed and unreliable to ensure a safe food supply,” said study coauthor Emily Broad Leib, JD, director of Harvard Law School Center for Health Law and Policy Innovation and founding director of the Harvard Law School Food Law and Policy Clinic. “FDA is only starting to utilize its post-market powers to review a tiny number of ingredients in the food supply, even though evidence of harm has been present for decades.”
The authors’ analysis provides the FDA and Congress with several potential actions to better assess and oversee the safety of both GRAS substances and food additives. This could include introducing a new requirement that companies must publicly notify the FDA of the use of GRAS ingredients, and share their underlying safety data, before they are put in foods; creating a robust review process to reevaluate the safety of GRAS ingredients and food additives once they are already on the market; and clarifying the distinction between GRAS ingredients and food additives.
In order to fund this stronger oversight of the food supply, the researchers suggest that Congress could allocate additional resources to the FDA or establish a user fee program in which food companies pay for the FDA to review the safety of their ingredients before they are added to foods. “Both the FDA and Congress can do more to enable the FDA to meet its mission of ensuring a safe food supply,” said Pomeranz. The National Institutes of Health supported the research.
As with pears, roasting red onions brings out their sweetness. Rather than just drizzling them with olive oil and maple syrup, this recipe melds those two ingredients first—it’s my take on the “instant caramel” craze that swept the internet over the summer. Its richness is balanced by the slight saltiness of the halloumi and the bitterness of the greens.
Ingredients
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 large ripe firm baking pears, like Anjou, Bosc, or Starkrimson
1 small red onion
8 ounces halloumi
4 cups fresh greens
16 walnut halves
Directions
Step 1
In a large bowl, vigorously whisk 3 tablespoons olive oil and the maple syrup until they meld and the sauce becomes a rich caramel color, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the salt and set aside.
Step 2
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Cut the pears into halves and use a small spoon or melon baller to scoop out the seeds. Cut each pear half in two. Peel the onion and cut into 8 wedges. Add the pears and onions to the sauce and toss gently to coat. Transfer to a rimmed sheet pan and roast for 30 minutes or until caramelized, flipping over the pears and onions halfway through the roasting.
Step 3
Toward the end of the roasting time, sauté the halloumi. Cut the cheese into 8 sections. Heat a frying pan large enough to hold them. When hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the halloumi pieces. Cook until browned, up to 5 minutes, then flip and repeat.
Step 4
Divide the greens among four plates or bowls. Top with equal amounts of pears, onions, halloumi, and walnuts, then drizzle with the roasting pan juices and a splash of olive oil.
Late Summer Fruit Salad Recipe, Spotlight on Nectarines, Zesting-then Squeezing, Ultra-Processed Foods (UPFs) and Your Sleep, Preventing Falls
It’s still stone fruit season—the perfect excuse for a luscious fruit salad with a zesty dressing. My recipe is a great example of healthy eating that still tastes indulgent. Enjoying “whole” foods, meaning foods in their most natural state, is the antidote to the dangers of ultra-processed foods, which now include insomnia. Read more on this below, along with a new advisory on avoiding falls for people over 65—food for thought for anyone at risk for falling, regardless of age.
Late Summer Fruit Salad
Healthy Ingredient Spotlight
Nectarines
Think of nectarines as peaches’ little siblings. The main difference between the two popular fruits is simply genetic—nectarines lack the fuzz gene that peaches have. Also, nectarines tend to be smaller and firmer yet sweeter and more intensely flavored and scented than peaches…a strong aroma is a key sign of ripeness.
As with peaches, there are dozens of varieties to choose from, though they fall into the same main categories: freestone and cling free (cling-free varieties making slicing much easier) as well as white and yellow flesh. Nectarines are antioxidant rich and have twice the amount of vitamin A and slightly more vitamin C and potassium than peaches, along with vitamin E, B vitamins, calcium, fiber, and some iron.
To ripen nectarines, store them at room temperature until they’re no longer firm. If you can’t eat them right away, you can refrigerate them, but for no more than three to five days.
Quick Kitchen Nugget
Zest, then Squeeze
Whenever a recipe calls for zest and juice from a piece of citrus, always zest first, optimally with a handheld Microplane grater. It’s not only easier than trying to zest halves, but you’ll also get the most zest. When juiving, if you’re using a handheld press, always position the fruit cut-side down into the empty cup to extract the most juice.
For Your Best Health
Why Those Chips Are Wrecking Your Sleep
We know that ultra-processed foods (UPFs) are the unhealthiest food choices because they have the highest levels of saturated fats, starches, and added sugars plus all sorts of additives like artificial colors and flavors; are devoid of nutrients; and have virtually no fiber. Packaged baked goods and snacks, frozen foods, and processed meats are typically considered ultra-processed. Much of the research on the detriments of UPFs has looked at the links between these foods and health conditions such as diabetes, obesity, and cancer. Now a new study has added sleep problems, including chronic insomnia, to that list. This can have a snowball effect on health because sleep disorders and insomnia have independently been linked with anxiety and depression as well as health conditions like diabetes and heart disease. With sleep health now a wellness goal on its own right, a better diet can be one way to get there.
Lead investigator Marie-Pierre St-Onge, PhD, associate professor of nutritional medicine and director of Columbia University Irving Medical Center of Excellence for Sleep & Circadian Research, said, “At a time when more and more foods are highly processed and sleep disturbances are rampant, it is important to evaluate whether diet could contribute to adverse- or good-quality sleep. Our research team had previously reported associations of healthy dietary patterns, like the Mediterranean diet, with a reduced risk of insomnia and poor sleep quality (both cross-sectionally and longitudinally), and high-carbohydrate diets with an elevated risk of insomnia.”
For this cross-sectional study, Dr. St-Onge and some of her colleagues included 38,570 French participants with a mean age of 50 who completed a sleep questionnaire and at least two 24-hour dietary records. An analysis revealed a statistically significant association between ultra-processed food intake and chronic insomnia, independent of participants’ sociodemographic, lifestyle, diet quality, and mental health status. Overall, the study participants got 16 percent of their daily energy from UPFs. Nearly 20 percent of participants reported symptoms of chronic insomnia, and this group tended to eat more ultra-processed foods.
There are various reasons for the diet-sleep link. First, people who eat more saturated fat, trans fat, sodium, and free or added sugars tend to eat less fruit, vegetables, legumes, and seafood, which are all sources of sleep-promoting compounds, the researchers pointed out. Also, ultra-processed foods are highly inflammatory and can negatively affect the gut microbiome—and the gut microbiome is known to play a role in the quality of your shuteye.
Fitness Flash
Preventing Falls
The US Preventive Services Task Force (USPSTF), a volunteer group of experts in different fields from across the country, recently issued its guidance regarding preventing falls in people over age 65. According to the CDC, over 14 million Americans, or one in four adults ages 65 and older, report falling each year, and for about 37 percent, doing so resulted in an injury that required medical treatment or restricted their activity for at least one day.
After its review of existing research, the USPSTF concluded with moderate certainty that exercise interventions provide a moderate net benefit and that multifactorial interventions, such as three-dimensional exercises (movement through all three spatial planes or dimensions: forward and back, side to side, and up and down), provide a small net benefit in preventing falls and fall-related morbidity in older adults at increased risk for falls. Effective exercise interventions include supervised individual physical therapy and group exercise classes.
While the USPSTF stated that it’s difficult to identify specific components of exercise that are particularly effective, the most commonly studied exercise components were gait, balance, and functional training, followed by strength and resistance training, flexibility, and endurance training. A smaller number of trials included three-dimensional exercise, such as group dance or tai chi classes. The most common frequency and duration for exercise interventions was two to three sessions per week for 12 months, although the duration of the studies ranged from two to 30 months.
The USPSTF also recommended that a program be tailored to each individual based on the findings of a health and risk factor assessment that might include balance, gait, vision, postural blood pressure, medication, environment, cognition, and psychological health. This could be done by your doctor or another expert familiar with your health history so that he or she can factor in any chronic medical conditions, medications taken, and alcohol use as well whether you had a prior fall, all of which could affect your fall risk.
The USPSTF statement included a reminder about the multiple health benefits associated with physical activity that go beyond fall prevention: a lower risk of cardiovascular disease events, cardiovascular disease mortality, and all-cause mortality, as well as lower blood pressure, lower risk of type 2 diabetes, and lower risk of high cholesterol. It added: “The US Department of Health and Human Services recommends that adults do at least 150 to 300 minutes per week of moderate-intensity—or 75 to 150 minutes per week of vigorous-intensity—aerobic physical activity, as well as muscle-strengthening activities of moderate or greater intensity and that involve all major muscle groups, twice a week or more.”
Stone fruit—nectarines, peaches, and plums—are the stars of this juicy dessert, with figs, berries, and a sweet and citrusy dressing in supporting roles. This salad, high in antioxidants, also makes a delicious breakfast
Pit and section the stone fruit, then place in a large serving bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, and honey. Whisk in the lime juice, zest, and mint. Pour the dressing over the fruit in the bowl and toss gently. Allow the juices and the dressing to meld for 30 minutes. Just before serving, arrange the figs and blackberries on top of the stone fruit.
It’s said that the Australian version of apricot chicken, whose simple ingredients were apricot nectar, a packet of dried French onion soup, and chicken parts, became popular in the 1970s; many adults Down Under grew up on it. My version takes more of a “from-scratch” approach for richer flavor.
Ingredients
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
8 skin-on chicken thighs, any excess skin trimmed
2 large onions, peeled and cut lengthwise into strips
4 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
2 cups no-sugar-added apricot juice or nectar
1 cup homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken broth
12 dried apricots
Directions
Step 1
Heat the oven to 375°F. Mix the flour, pepper, and salt in a pie plate.
Step 2
Dredge the chicken, one thigh at a time, in the flour. Heat a 5-quart Dutch oven on the stovetop over medium-high heat. When hot, add the olive oil. Add the chicken thighs to the pan in a single layer, skin side down, working in batches. Sear for 5 minutes, flip, and sear the undersides for 5 minutes. Remove the chicken to a plate and add the onions; sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes, then place the chicken in an even layer on top of the vegetables. Add the juice and broth to the pan, then arrange the dried apricots between the chicken thighs. Cover the pan and place in the oven. Bake for 1 hour.
Step 3
When done, serve from the pan or, if the sauce is too thin, transfer the chicken and apricots to a platter and put the Dutch oven back on the stovetop. Boil down the liquid over high heat for 5 to 10 minutes.
Australia’s temperate climates host warm-water prawns (similar to shrimp) and tropical fruits such as papaya. This recipe brings them together and will inspire you to ditch the familiar ketchup-and-horseradish sauce often served in the US. Also good with lobster (called “bugs” in Oz) or scallops.
Ingredients
For the cocktail sauce:
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1/4 cup diced shallot or red onion
1/2 jalapeño or serrano pepper, seeded, coarsely chopped
1/2 ripe papaya, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
Juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon sweet chili sauce, or more to taste
2 teaspoons Asian fish sauce, coconut aminos, or soy sauce
2 tablespoons unsweetened coconut milk
Coarse salt (kosher or sea)
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro leaves
For the prawns:
1 1/2 pounds jumbo prawns or shrimp, peeled and deveined
Coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1 teaspoon smoked paprika or regular paprika (sweet or hot)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 limes, each sliced lengthwise into 6 wedges
Directions
Step 1
Make the cocktail sauce: Heat a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the 2 tablespoons of olive oil, the shallots, and the jalapeño and sauté until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Let cool. Tip into a blender jar or the bowl of a food processor. Add the papaya, lime juice, chili sauce, fish sauce, and coconut milk. Process until smooth. Taste, adding a bit of salt if needed. If too thick, add another tablespoon of olive oil and blend again. Add the cilantro leaves and process until coarsely chopped. Set the cocktail sauce aside or cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Step 2
Line a rimmed sheet pan with foil or parchment paper for easier clean-up. Place a wire rack on top. Arrange the prawns in a single layer on the wire rack. Lightly salt the prawns from a height of 6 to 8 inches. Let the prawns rest for 30 minutes, but no longer. Pat dry with paper towels. (Do not rinse.) Dust the prawns with paprika and brush with 2 tablespoons of olive oil.
Step 3
Heat a charcoal or gas grill to medium-high. (Alternatively, heat a large grill pan on the stovetop or pan-fry the shrimp.) Grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side, or until the prawns are opaque. Do not overcook. Serve with the lime wedges and the cocktail sauce.
This is one of the easiest side dishes in my repertoire. Because curry powder is a blend of nearly a dozen spices or more (some of which are fairly exotic), feel free to use your favorite pre-packaged curry powder.
Ingredients
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon curry powder
1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large head cauliflower, trimmed, cored, and cut into bite-size florets
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro or flat-leaf parsley leaves
Directions
Step 1
Heat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed sheet pan with foil or parchment paper for easier clean-up.
Step 2
In a large mixing bowl, combine the lemon juice, curry powder, salt, and pepper. Whisk in the olive oil. Add the cauliflower florets to the bowl and gently toss with your hands to evenly coat each floret with the spices and oil. (We recommend wearing food-safe disposable gloves to avoid staining your hands.) Tip onto the prepared sheet pan and spread out in a single layer.
Step 3
Roast the cauliflower for 20 to 25 minutes, or until tender-crisp and browned in spots, turning halfway through the cooking time. Transfer to a platter or bowl and top with the cilantro. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Serves 4 to 6
For Your Best Health
The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil
According to a new study from researchers at the Columbia University Mailman School of Public Health and The Robert Butler Columbia Aging Center, a very specific brain-boosting diet has been linked to reduced dementia risk and a slower pace of aging. The study, “Diet, Pace of Biological Aging, and Risk of Dementia in the Framingham Heart Study,” published in the Annals of Neurology, also explains how the diet helps slow down the processes of biological aging.
“Much attention to nutrition in dementia research focuses on the way specific nutrients affect the brain,” said Daniel Belsky, PhD, associate professor of epidemiology and a senior author of the study. “We tested the hypothesis that healthy diet protects against dementia by slowing down the body’s overall pace of biological aging.”
The researchers used data from the second generation of the Framingham Heart Study, the Offspring Cohort. Participants were 60 years of age or older and free of dementia and had available dietary, epigenetic, and follow-up data. Follow-up was done at nine examinations, approximately every 4 to 7 years, which included a physical exam, lifestyle-related questionnaires, blood sampling, and, starting in 1991, neurocognitive testing. Of 1,644 participants included in the analyses, 140 developed dementia.
To measure the pace of aging, the researchers used an epigenetic clock called DunedinPACE developed by Dr. Belsky and colleagues at Duke University and the University of Otago in Dunedin, New Zealand. The clock measures how fast a person’s body is deteriorating as they grow older, “like a speedometer for the biological processes of aging,” explained Dr. Belsky.
“We have some strong evidence that a healthy diet can protect against dementia,” said Yian Gu, PhD, associate professor of neurological sciences at Columbia University Irving Medical Center and the other senior author of the study, “but the mechanism of this protection is not well understood.” Past research linked both diet and dementia risk to an accelerated pace of biological aging. “Testing the hypothesis that multi-system biological aging is a mechanism of underlying diet-dementia associations was the logical next step,” explained Dr. Belsky.
The research determined that higher adherence to the MIND diet slowed the pace of aging as measured by DunedinPACE and reduced risks for dementia and mortality. Furthermore, slower DunedinPACE accounted for 27% of the diet-dementia association and 57% of the diet-mortality association.
“Our findings suggest that slower pace of aging mediates part of the relationship of healthy diet with reduced dementia risk, and therefore, monitoring pace of aging may inform dementia prevention,” said first author Aline Thomas, PhD, of the Columbia Department of Neurology and Taub Institute for Research on Alzheimer’s Disease and the Aging Brain. “However, a portion of the diet-dementia association remains unexplained, therefore we believe that continued investigation of brain-specific mechanisms in well-designed mediation studies is warranted.”
“We suggest that additional observational studies be conducted to investigate direct associations of nutrients with brain aging, and if our observations are also confirmed in more diverse populations, monitoring biological aging may indeed inform dementia prevention,” noted Dr. Belsky.
Exactly What Is the MIND Diet?
MIND is a hybrid of the Mediterranean and DASH diets, tailored to reflect key findings from nutrition and dementia research. It details serving sizes of specific foods to focus on and which to limit, primarily those high in saturated fat, which is known to negatively affect brain health.
Foods and portions to eat every day: 1/2 to 1 cup green leafy vegetables, 1/2 cup other vegetables, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and three 1-ounce servings of whole grains.
Foods and portions to eat over the course of each week: 5 ounces nuts, 2-1/2 cups berries, 1-1/2 cups legumes, two 3-to-5-ounce servings of skinless poultry, and 3-to-5 ounces fish.
Foods to limit to these weekly totals: three or fewer 3-to-5-ounce servings of red and processed meats, 1 ounce whole-fat cheese, 1 fried or fast food, and 4 sweet servings. If desired, no more than 1 teaspoon of butter or stick of margarine a day.
Mini Pistachio Thumbprint Cookies Recipe, For Your Best Health: The Mediterranean Diet (Still No. 1)
Among the most important news items I share in this newsletter are results of scientific studies on the benefits of olive oil and, in a larger context, the Mediterranean diet. I love to report on research that shows how this way of eating—and living—has positive impacts on heart and brain health and can help ward off serious chronic diseases including diabetes and dementia.
It’s also rewarding to see how the diet has been adopted here in the US and how many of our esteemed institutions, such as the American Heart Association and the Cleveland Clinic, recommend it. An annual survey that so many people appreciate reading is the U.S. News & World Report’s ranking of dietary plans or “Best Diets.” And for the seventh year in a row the Mediterranean diet triumphs in the top spot. I’ll detail the highlights of the magazine’s reasoning right after this delicious recipe for cookies you can enjoy guilt-free—in moderation, of course.
With a minimal amount of sugar, these cookies pack all the heart-healthy benefits of nuts, a key food—along with extra virgin olive oil—of the Mediterranean diet. Though sweets are the smallest food group on the Mediterranean diet food pyramid, we know that an occasional treat can help us stay on track with this healthful way of eating. This recipe shows that you don’t have to make huge sacrifices to enjoy it.
Ingredients
1 cup shelled pistachios
1-1/2 cups almond flour
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or paste
1/4 cup raspberry or apricot all-fruit (no sugar added) preserves, such as Polaner or St. Dalfour
Directions
Step 1
Preheat your oven to 350°F. Line two rimmed sheet pans with parchment paper. Use a spice or coffee bean grinder to pulverize the pistachios (you may need to do this is batches). Transfer to a large bowl along with the almond flour and sugar, and mix thoroughly.
Step 2
In a stand mixer or large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the egg whites and salt at a low speed until frothy, then increase the speed and beat until you get soft peaks. Briefly whip in the olive oil and the extracts. Fold the whites into the nut mixture with a large spatula until fully combined. The dough will be very firm.
Step 3
Using a 1-inch ice cream scoop or melon baller, make dough balls and evenly space them on the parchment-lined pans. Use your thumb to make an indentation in the top of each cookie, flattening the centers and then filling each with a half-teaspoon or so of preserves.
Step 4
Bake just until set, about 15 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through. Wait 5 minutes before transferring the cookies to a rack to cool. When completely cooled, store in an airtight tin.
Yields about 44 cookies
For Your Best Health
The Mediterranean Diet: Still No. 1
According to the U.S. News & World Report 2024 rankings, created in partnership with The Harris Poll and with input from a panel of leading health experts, the Mediterranean diet has once again taken the No. 1 spot in the Best Diets Overall category, thanks to its focus on diet quality and primarily plant-based foods. The Mediterranean diet also claimed the top spot in the categories Best Diets for Diabetes, Best Heart-Healthy Diets, Easiest Diets to Follow, Best Diets for Bone and Joint Health, Best Family-Friendly Diets, and Best Diets for Healthy Eating, and the No. 2 spot in the Best Weight Loss Diets and the Best Plant-Based Diets categories.
One of the reasons it’s both adoptable and adaptable is that there are so many cuisines to choose from when looking for recipes. Dishes that are popular in Turkey and Greece will offer different tastes than those from Italy, France, or Spain or from Morocco and other North African countries. But the unifying elements are the same: the emphasis on vegetables, fruits, extra virgin olive oil, nuts, whole grains, legumes, herbs, spices, and other plant-based foods that leave you feeling satisfied; minimal food processing; and a convivial atmosphere in the kitchen and at the table.
The Mediterranean diet also ranks high for what it leaves out:saturated fat, added sugars, and excess salt—all so prevalent in the typical American diet and so likely to leave you wanting more because foods with a low-nutrient profile are not truly satisfying. Eating them regularly also poses health risks. Eating a Mediterranean-style diet, on the other hand, translates to a longer life, a higher quality of life, and a lower risk of chronic diseases such as cancer, dementia, and heart disease.
The Mediterranean diet food pyramid is a great way to visualize the foods to focus on and how often to eat them. Whole grains, legumes, vegetables, fruit, and olive oil make up most of your daily intake. Seafood can be enjoyed a few times a week; animal proteins like poultry, eggs, cheese, and yogurt less often; and red meat less often still. But you also have a lot of leeway, so you don’t need to feel guilty about eating foods not on the pyramid. Nothing is totally eliminated, though you’re advised to eat foods like sugary desserts, butter, heavily processed foods like frozen meals, candy, and refined grains and oils sparingly.
To get started on the Mediterranean diet, or to more closely follow it, U.S. News & World Report suggests these tips:
Think of meat as your side dish and whole grains or vegetables as your main dish.
Look beyond Greek and Italian cuisines for inspiration—in all, 22 countries border the Mediterranean Sea!
As with any diet, do some advance meal planning so you won’t be tempted by convenience foods after a long day at work. For instance, cook up a batch of grains or lentils on the weekend to use for meals throughout the following week.
Make water your main source of hydration. Wine is considered optional and then only in moderation—one to two glasses per day for men and one glass per day for women.
Composed Roasted Beet Salad Recipe with Balsamic Vinegar, Spotlight on Whisks, Speaking More than One Language to Fight Alzheimer’s, and Protecting Against Falls at Every Age
Roasting brings out the flavors of autumn vegetables, making them exceptionally delicious—and the only thing better than drizzling them with extra virgin olive oil is also adding a few drops of rich balsamic vinegar from Modena, Italy. That’s why I’m so excited to announce my third collection of artisanal vinegars from the T. J. Robinson Curated Culinary Selections and the following recipe so that so well highlights my balsamic vinegar, Condimento Exclusivi Barili.
Also in this issue…If you’re looking for new pastimes as the weather changes, consider learning another language—a study review found that the brain reserves you’ll create could delay the arrival of dementia symptoms. And to protect physical health at every age, get to know simple steps to help prevent falls.
This is a great time of year to sample the savory sweetness of yellow beets. Roasting beets intensifies their surprising sweetness, a palate-pleasing contrast to the greens in this recipe. The bold flavors in this salad need just olive oil and balsamic vinegar to dress it, but you’ll need to bypass imposters and source true aceto balsamico from Italy—see the Healthy Ingredient Spotlight in my newsletter.
Ingredients
4 large yellow beets
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar from Modena, plus more for drizzling
4 cups assorted salad greens
2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano shavings
1 ounce chopped hazelnuts
Directions
Preheat your oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper. Trim the beets but don’t peel them, and cut into quarters. Transfer to the sheet pan and toss with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Roast until tender, up to one hour. Out of the oven, roll up the beets in the parchment paper and allow them to sit for 10 minutes; this makes it easy to now take off the peels. Toss them with the rest of the olive oil and the tablespoon of vinegar. Divide the greens among four plates and top with equal amounts of beets, cheese shavings, and hazelnuts. Drizzle with more olive oil and vinegar.
Yields 4 servings
Healthy Ingredient Spotlight
Authentic Balsamic Vinegar
As those of you who have already been enjoying the vinegars of the T. J. Robinson Curated Culinary Selections know, after years of requests from members of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club, I made it my mission to source the best artisanal vinegars on the planet. That meant distinguishing true aceto balsamico or balsamic vinegar from its many pretenders.
With so many bottles on store shelves labeled “balsamic,” it’s important to know how to choose correctly. First and foremost, the vinegar must be completely crafted in Modena, a city within the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, according to exacting, centuries-old standards enforced by the local consortiums. Anything else is, quite simply, not balsamic vinegar. Beyond this, the ultimate quality of a Modena balsamic depends on the skill of the producer, including knowing what wood to pick for each period of aging.
A few different types of balsamic vinegars are available within the strict guidelines. There is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta or Protected Origin Denomination), which can take generations to make and is wildly expensive. That’s because it’s crafted exclusively from cooked grape must—all parts of the grapes are used—and aged for a minimum of 12 years and sometimes 25 years or even longer. A few ounces cost well over a hundred dollars, so it’s not used for cooking or making vinaigrettes but for drizzling sparingly on foods as a finishing touch.
The next is Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protetta or protected geographical indication). It must be made from grape must and wine vinegar only and aged in wooden barrels for at least two months, but can be aged for as long as three years, which allows it to get sweeter and more harmonious as it achieves the perfect ratio of density to acidity. Many companies take the industrial route, rapidly boiling down the grape must, which often imparts the taste of burnt toast, and aging for the bare minimum.
The Acetomodena balsamic in my collection is a special IGP vinegar called Condimento Barili Exclusivi. The “condiment” designation allows producers more freedom to craft a vinegar that goes beyond strict IGP requirements with a taste akin to that of the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale—it has the perfect balance of acidity, sweetness from grape must, and woodiness from the barrel aging.
Why you should have this vinegar in your kitchen: A pure balsamic vinegar, sweet and thick, is a culinary essential. It adds the perfect finish to cheeses, salads, grilled foods from vegetables to meat, and even desserts, like strawberries and figs.
Quick Kitchen Nugget
Whisks Aplenty
Having a few well-made whisks makes important cooking prep steps nearly effortless. But with so many sizes—and shapes—available, how do you know which ones you really need?
Start with a French whisk, long and narrow with numerous loops of wire, or tines, great for beating eggs and making egg-based sauces, custards, and curds. Add a balloon whisk, an overall large whisk that balloons to more of a ball shape at the end, for combining large volumes of dry or wet ingredients and whipping cream and egg whites if you don’t have a stand or hand mixer. Balloon whisks typically have fewer loops than smaller whisks so that ingredients don’t get caught in them. A very small mini-whisk is ideal for beating small quantities of vinaigrette, a single egg, or cocoa and milk for a cup of hot chocolate. There are more exotic shapes you can buy, like a flat whisk for reaching all around a saucepan and a coiled whisk (with a small oval of coiled wire at the end), if you’re an equipment lover.
Most important is whisk construction. Cheaply made whisks fail early on—the wires pop out of the handle or they just don’t have enough loops to be effective. Look for whisks made of high-quality, dishwasher-safe stainless steel. To avoid scratching nonstick saucepans, you’ll also want whisks made of silicone—just keep in mind that they’re more fragile and tend to require more arm work on your part.
For Your Best Health
Sprechen Sie Deutsch?
Or Italian, French, or Spanish? Today may be a great day to start! A new review conducted at UCLA and published in the Journal of Alzheimer’s Disease examined the numerous and often conflicting studies on whether regularly speaking two or more languages can help fight Alzheimer’s.
According to the review’s results, being bi- or multi-lingual does increase the brain’s cognitive reserve, a protective effect thought to stem from the executive control involved in managing multiple languages. The review acknowledged that findings in the various studies reviewed were not consistent when it came to factors like the age at which people should start learning another language, how proficient they need to be in it, or how often they need to use it. There also isn’t hard evidence that it can prevent Alzheimer’s, but most did find that the increased cognitive capacity and resilience of the brain’s frontal lobe from learning languages can delay the emergence of dementia symptoms by about 4 to 5 years. And that delay has a potentially significant impact on the course of the disease for those who get it. Another positive is that learning a new language can be fun in the here and now, especially with easy-to-access programs like Duolingo and Babbel, which have apps for your smartphone and free trials.
Fitness Flash
Protecting Against Falls At Every Age
We face not only mental but also physical perils as we age, and one of the most devastating can be a fall that breaks a bone, especially a hip. UNLV assistant professor, physical therapist, and board-certified neurological clinical specialist Jennifer Nash, DPT, CNS, explains it’s hard to recover from a hip fracture, and afterward, many people are unable to live on their own. More than 95% of hip fractures are caused by falling, usually by falling sideways. Women account for three-quarters of all hip fractures, often because of osteoporosis, which weakens bones and makes them more likely to break. Recovery from a broken hip can be grueling. It can land you in the hospital for a week and possibly a care facility afterward to continue healing.
During recovery, every activity of daily living, including any exercise, can be painful. That pain can create a vicious cycle when it comes to physical inactivity: The less you do, the less you will be able to do. Decreased activity leads to decreased strength and function, which leads to deconditioning, increased fear of activity, and decreased quality of life. This can all lead to even greater inactivity, Dr. Nash points out.
The answer is to do your best to prevent a fall in the first place with a plan based on guidelines from the National Council on Aging:
Participate in a good balance and exercise program. Try a community exercise program or get started on an individualized program with the help of a physical therapist.
Check in with your healthcare provider. Review any medications you’re taking for side effects that include dizziness. In fact, if different specialists have prescribed different medications for you, ask your primary care doctor or pharmacist to review them all for negative interactions. Have your blood pressure checked—some people experience dizziness from a blood pressure drop when they stand up from seated exercises or just from being in a chair.
Have your vision and hearing checked annually. Three components make up the body’s balance system: vision, proprioception (the ability to sense where you are with your feet), and the vestibular system (the inner ear). Dr. Nash says hearing is important for your balance. If you can’t hear someone coming up behind you, you might get startled and trip. Or maybe you can’t hear someone warning you about an uneven surface, which could lead to a fall. At a certain age, she says that, compared to single-focus lenses, bi-focal or tri-focal lenses can be problematic because they can lead you to look through the reading lens to climb stairs or uneven surfaces, and that can create depth-perception issues.
Create a safe home environment. Remove any and all tripping hazards like loose cords and clutter along the floor, even throw rugs. Improve your lighting, especially on stairs, which should have at least one railing. Add grab bars in key areas like the shower and near the toilet. Make sure there’s a night light on the path to the bathroom to lessen the chance of falling if you wake up in the middle of the night to go.
And if you ever do experience a fall and hit your head, call your doctor right away and ask about getting evaluated for a traumatic brain injury or TBI. Don’t wait for symptoms to appear.