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Fave e Cicoria

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

A silken purée of fava beans served alongside braised wild chicory is another Pugliese classic, one we enjoyed at Ai 2 Ghiottoni in Bari with the folks from Fratelli Ruggiero. While it’s possible to find fava beans (dried or frozen) in the US, wild chicory is elusive—dandelion greens are a great stand-in and available at many greengrocers. Note: This recipe includes directions for soaking and peeling the skin from dried favas, but some purveyors sell them already peeled—you might see them labeled as broad beans. If you love chickpeas, they make a tasty substitute.

Ingredients

  • 12 ounces dried fava beans
  • 6 garlic cloves, divided use
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 pound chicory or dandelion greens
  • 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt, divided use
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
  • 1 teaspoon pepperoncini (crushed red pepper flakes), or to taste
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Step 1

Soak the fava beans in a large bowl of cold water overnight. They will triple in size. Drain and rinse them, then peel off their skins with your fingernails (some beans will have a crack, which makes the job easier; for those that don’t, use the tip of a paring knife to make a slit to start you off).

Step 2

Place the peeled favas in a large pot with enough cold water to cover them by 2 inches. Smash 3 garlic cloves with the side of a heavy knife and add to the pot along with the bay leaf. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until tender, about an hour.

Step 3

While the beans are cooking, make the greens. Trim the stems as needed, rinse the leaves, and boil them in a large pot of water with 1 teaspoon salt until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.

Step 4

Mince the remaining 3 garlic cloves. Heat a frying pan. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, the pepperoncini, and smashed garlic, cook for 2 minutes, then add the greens and cook through; keep warm on the stove.

Step 5

When the beans are done, drain them well and transfer to a food processor or high-powered blender. Add in 4 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon each salt and black pepper and process until smooth and velvety. If the purée is too thin, transfer to a saucepan and place over medium heat to thicken.

Step 6

For each serving, plate a large spoonful of fava purée alongside some of the greens and drizzle both liberally with olive oil.

Serves 4

Pasta in Walnut Cream

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

This recipe was inspired by a pasta dish my Merry Band of Tasters and I enjoyed at Dal Sor Francesco, a restaurant in Vetralla near the Colli Etruschi mill that we try to visit every year. We arrived at the height of fresh walnut season and saw the nuts everywhere. Walnut sauce is actually a specialty of Liguria, a region in northern Italy, where it’s prepared in a pesto style. My version is a bit creamier but still takes only a few minutes to make.

Ingredients

  • 8 ounces fusilli or other spiral-shaped pasta
  • 1 cup shelled walnuts 
  • 1 garlic clove 
  • 1 cup half-and-half
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • Optional garnish: freshly grated nutmeg

Directions

Step 1

Cook the pasta according to package directions. While it’s boiling, heat a large frying pan. When the pan is hot, add the walnuts and toast until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Reserve and coarsely chop 1/4 cup of the toasted walnuts. Add the rest of the walnuts and the garlic to a food processor and process until finely chopped, about 30 seconds. Add in the half-and-half, olive oil, and cheese, and pulse until you get a sauce. Transfer the sauce to the frying pan and heat to a simmer.

Step 2

Reserve 1/2 cup of pasta water and drain the rest. Add the pasta, salt, and pepper to the frying pan, and toss well. If the sauce is too thick, add pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time (it shouldn’t be runny). Garnish with the reserved walnuts and a sprinkle of nutmeg, if desired.

Serves 4

Vietnamese-Style Cucumber Salad

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

Inspired by the ingredients in a traditional Vietnamese summer roll, this is a zesty salad that’s hearty enough for a meal any time of the year. To make the recipe your own, choose the types of cucumber and chiles you like best.

Ingredients

  • 1 pound cucumbers 
  • 1/2 teaspoon sea salt
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • 2 tablespoons lime juice
  • 2 tablespoons sweet chili sauce such as Mae Ploy (available at Asian markets)
  • 1/4 cup chopped red onion
  • 1 chile, such as jalapeño, serrano, or poblano, depending on heat preference, stemmed and chopped 
  • 1 carrot, peeled and cut into matchsticks
  • 2 scallions, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal into 2-inch pieces
  • 2 Hass avocados, ripe but still firm
  • 1 pound cooked jumbo shrimp 
  • 1/3 cup peanuts
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint leaves
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Directions

Step 1

If using thin English or Persian cucumbers, slice them into 1/4-inch discs; if using thicker cukes, cut them in half lengthwise, then into half-moon shapes about 1/4-inch thick. Place the slices in a large colander set over a large bowl or in the sink and sprinkle with the salt; toss well. Allow the cucumbers to sweat for about 15 minutes, then rinse to remove extra salt and shake well. 

Step 2

In a large glass bowl, mix the olive oil, vinegar, sugar, lime juice, and sweet chili sauce. Add in the cucumbers, red onion, chile, carrots, and scallions, and toss to combine. Cut the avocados into small cubes and halve each shrimp lengthwise from top to tail; fold both into the cucumber salad along with the peanuts and herbs. Allow the mixture to marinate for about 20 minutes, then serve at room temperature.

Yields 4 servings

Insalata Torre a Cona

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

My Merry Band of Tasters and I enjoyed this vibrant mixed salad at the historic Torre a Cona estate just outside Florence. It’s dressed with a light vinaigrette that enhances the pepperiness and bitterness of the lettuces.

Ingredients

  • One bulb fennel, about 16 ounces
  • 5 ounces radishes, very thinly sliced
  • One 12-ounce head of radicchio, cut into ribbons
  • 6 ounces frisée or curly endive
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • Wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano

Directions

Trim the bottom off the fennel bulb, then use a mandoline (or a thin food processor slicing blade or the slicing side of a box grater) to shave it into thin slices. Mince a few fronds and add them with the fennel to a large salad bowl along with the radishes, radicchio, and frisée. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and toss well with tongs. Run a cheese plane across the surface of the Parmigiano-Reggiano to create wide shavings and scatter them on top of the salad.

Serves 6 to 8