Olive Oil Hunter News #170

Horiatiki Salad Recipe and The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

I’m a huge fan of both Greek and Middle Eastern salads, the ingredients of which are not only delicious but also mainstays of the MIND (Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay) diet, a way of eating designed for brain health. It’s an offshoot of the super-healthy Mediterranean diet and the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diet. Why the distinction? Because the latest research on the MIND diet shows it can slow aging as well as reduce dementia risk. Add this to the list of the benefits of olive oil—it’s one of the super foods that MIND suggests including every day.

Horiatiki: The Sequel!

• Olive Oil Hunter News #223

  Summer Lentil Salad Recipe, Spotlight on Lentils, The Mediterranean Diet for IBS and Outrunning Alzheimer’s

  Lentils are the unsung heroes of the legume family—high in protein and fiber along with other nutrients and fast to cook. They’re the perfect replacement for rice in summer salads and side dishes. They also fit right into the Mediterranean diet, a way of eating that could be a welcome change from the FODMAP diet for people living with IBS, according to a new study. I’m also sharing research that takes a deeper dive into exercise as a weapon in the war against Alzheimer’s.

  Summer Lentil Salad

  

  Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

  Let’s Hear It for Lentils

  High in fiber, vitamin C, and other antioxidants, strawberries also deliver potassium, folate, and magnesium. But they also have a tendency to get moldy when moisture gets trapped between the berries, especially in typical clamshell plastic containers. A simple storage trick is to unpack them as soon as you get home and transfer them, unwashed, to a paper towel-lined glass container—line them up upside down, leaving a bit of room between them, and store in the fridge, uncovered, suggest the experts at the Utah State University Extension. Wash them just before hulling (a curved grapefruit knife works great) and blot dry with fresh paper towels.

  

  

  Quick Kitchen Nugget

  Making Lentils in Advance

  With 22 grams of protein in every cup of cooked French lentils, these nutrient-dense nuggets are great to have in the fridge, ready to sprinkle on green salads, add to other side dishes, or have as a satisfying snack drizzled with olive oil. Once you’ve cooked up a batch, drain them and let them come to room temperature. Transfer to a glass container and pop into the fridge. They’ll stay fresh for up to one week.

  

  For Your Best Health

  The Mediterranean Diet for IBS 

  IBS, or irritable bowel syndrome, affects an estimated 4 to 11 percent of all people, and most prefer dietary interventions to medication. Many try following the low-FODMAP diet, according to researchers at Michigan Medicine. It improves symptoms in more than half of patients, but it’s restrictive—it cuts out so many foods that people find it hard to follow. Previous investigations from these researchers, who were looking for more acceptable versions, led to their “FODMAP simple” diet, which only restricts the food groups in the FODMAP diet that are most likely to cause symptoms. Still, because any type of restrictive diets can be difficult to adopt, Michigan Medicine gastroenterologist Prashant Singh, MBBS, and his colleagues decided to look at a completely different alternative, the Mediterranean diet. 

  Many physicians are already behind the Mediterranean diet because of its benefits to cardiovascular, cognitive, and general health. With so many advantages, they wanted to see whether it could also bring IBS symptom relief. “In addition to the issue of being costly and time-consuming, there are concerns about nutrient deficiencies and disordered eating when trying a low-FODMAP diet. The Mediterranean diet interested us as an alternative that is not an elimination diet and overcomes several of these limitations related to a low-FODMAP diet,” said Dr. Singh.

  

  For the pilot study, 20 participants, all of whom were diagnosed with either IBS-D (diarrhea) or IBS-M (mixed symptoms of constipation and diarrhea), were randomized into two groups. For four weeks, one group followed the Mediterranean diet and the other followed the restriction phase of a low-FODMAP diet.

  The primary endpoint was an FDA-standard 30 percent reduction in abdominal pain intensity after four weeks. In the Mediterranean diet group, 73 percent of the patients met the primary endpoint for symptom improvement versus 81.8 percent in the low-FODMAP group. Though the low-FODMAP group experienced a greater improvement measured by both abdominal pain intensity and the IBS symptom severity score, the Mediterranean diet did provide symptom relief with fewer food restrictions.

  “This study adds to a growing body of evidence that suggests that a Mediterranean diet might be a useful addition to the menu of evidence-based dietary interventions for patients with IBS,” said William Chey, MD, chief of gastroenterology at the University of Michigan, president-elect of the American College of Gastroenterology, and senior author of the research paper.

  Researchers found the results of this pilot study encouraging enough to warrant future and larger controlled trials to investigate the potential of the Mediterranean diet as an effective intervention for patients with IBS. They believe studies comparing the long-term efficacy of the Mediterranean diet with long-term outcomes following the reintroduction and personalization phases of the low-FODMAP diet are needed.

  

  Fitness Flash

  Outrunning Alzheimer’s?

  A Mass General Brigham study, published in Nature Neuroscience, has revealed how exercise rewires the brain at the cellular level. “While we’ve long known that exercise helps protect the brain, we didn’t fully understand which cells were responsible or how it worked at a molecular level,” said senior author Christiane D. Wrann, DVM, PhD, a neuroscientist and leader of the Program in Neuroprotection in Exercise at the Mass General Brigham Heart and Vascular Institute and the McCance Center for Brain Health at Massachusetts General Hospital. “Now, we have a detailed map of how exercise impacts each major cell type in the memory center of the brain in Alzheimer’s disease.”

  The research team from Mass General Brigham and collaborators at SUNY Upstate Medical University leveraged advanced single-nuclei RNA sequencing (snRNA-seq), a relatively new technology that allows researchers to look at activity at the molecular level in single cells for an in-depth understanding of diseases like Alzheimer’s, along with a widely used preclinical model for Alzheimer’s disease. Focusing on a part of the hippocampus, a critical region for memory and learning damaged early in Alzheimer’s, they identified specific brain cell types that responded most to exercise. 

  They exercised a common mouse model for Alzheimer’s disease using running wheels, which improved the mice’s memory compared to their sedentary counterparts. They then analyzed gene activity across thousands of individual brain cells, finding that exercise changed activity both in microglia, a disease-associated population of brain cells, and in a specific type of neurovascular-associated astrocyte (NVA), newly discovered by the team, which are cells associated with blood vessels in the brain. Furthermore, the scientists identified the metabolic gene Atpif1 as an important regulator to create new neurons in the brain. “That we were able to modulate newborn neurons using our new target genes set underscores the promise our study,” said lead author Joana Da Rocha, PhD, a postdoctoral fellow working in Dr. Wrann’s lab.

  To ensure the findings were relevant to humans, the team validated their discoveries in a large dataset of human Alzheimer’s brain tissue, finding striking similarities. “This work not only sheds light on how exercise benefits the brain but also uncovers potential cell-specific targets for future Alzheimer’s therapies,” said Nathan Tucker, a biostatistician at SUNY Upstate Medical University and co-senior author of the study. “Our study offers a valuable resource for the scientific community investigating Alzheimer’s prevention and treatment.”

  Get More Recipes In Your Inbox!
• Quarter 2—Chilean Harvest

  Sumptuous Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils from Chile’s Leading Artisanal Producer Will Delight Your Taste Buds and Elevate Every Meal

  

  • These Club exclusives, available nowhere else, showcase this South American country’s amazing olive varietals.
  • Each unique blend is extraordinarily food-friendly, ready to lavish on all your seasonal dishes.
  • Certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil, this trio was rushed to the US by jet so that you can experience the tantalizing flavors and healthy polyphenols at their peak.

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  Majestic, awe-inspiring, breathtaking—those are the adjectives that come to mind every time I fly over the snow-capped Andes on my way to Santiago. The Chilean harvest always holds many surprises for your Olive Oil Hunter, and this year the results are beyond spectacular, from an enchanting Picual to an Arbequina enhanced with Coratina to an olive oil that’s an international cornucopia of cultivars—five varietals that come together to exceed the sum of its delicious parts! I am thrilled to present them to you for your warm-weather table.

  

  My Merry Band of Tasters, Down South America Way

  With the seasons reversed in the Southern Hemisphere, it always takes a few minutes to get accustomed to seeing the colors of autumn after leaving spring behind in the US. This is also Chile’s wine country (not as well-known as the Mendoza region of neighboring Argentina, but arguably ment to create outstanding olive oils rather than cut corners for a fast profit.)

  At Juanjo’s side is master agronomist Juan Carlos Pérez, who, with 20 years of experience (more than three-quarters of them at Pobeña!), is considered a top olive expert in the country, and also has a patient and gentle nature that keeps everyone on an even keel. Thanks to his skill in the field—I’ve always said that exceptional olive oil starts in the field and is finished in the mill—we had incredible choices to play with! In Chile, “we” always includes my good friend and international olive oil competition judge Denise Langevin and my favorite olive savant, Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, whose expertise is in demand around the world.

  

  Outpacing the Imminent Frost

  This season had none of the typical drama—there was enough water for irrigation as needed, thanks in part to a new well on the farm and a light rain that primed the olives for harvest. But, in recent years, Mother Nature found a new Chilean curveball to throw: an early frost. That’s when the temperature drops below freezing overnight. When the dip lasts five hours or so, the olives freeze on the trees, negatively affecting the flavor of their oils. Last year, we heard that 40 percent of the country’s olives froze. But that didn’t stop lesser-quality oils from being sold at sky-high prices on the global market. As the country’s preeminent farm, Pobeña now has the better plan: harvest early to avoid the problem. “You lose some quantity,” Juanjo explained, “but the quality is superb, with vibrant aromas.”

  

  I often talk about our fresh-pressed olive oils being food-friendly, and the culinary experiences we had in Santiago and in the countryside showcased this quality in our trio. We generously drizzled them at the farm-to-table lunch we had at the Alonso family homestead as well as the feast we enjoyed in Santa Cruz at Francis Mallmann’s Fuegos de Apalta, named for the open-fire kitchen in the center of the restaurant, a hallmark of the world-renowned grill master. Impressively, when we toured behind the scenes at Boragó, ranked one of the top restaurants in the world, we saw that Pobeña olive oil was used in the preparation of the exquisitely constructed food-as-art still-lifes created by its vast team of chefs. Though many fine-dining restaurants around the world use less expensive oils (to avoid cutting into their margins), Boragó, located in Santiago’s Vitacura neighborhood, uses only the very best—just like you, my discriminating Club member. Get ready to experience the taste sensations of these harvest-fresh oils in the inspired dishes in this report’s recipe section as well as with all your favorite food

  Happy drizzling!
  

  

  T. J. Robinson 
  The Olive Oil Hunter®

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  This Quarter’s First Selection

  • Producer: Denise Langevin La Estrella, Chile
  • Olive Varieties: Arbequina, Coratina
  • Flavor Profile: Mild

  

  “I cook everything with olive oil,” exhorts international olive oil authority Denise Langevin, drizzling a shimmering stream of our just-pressed Chilean blend over a grilled chorizo sausage in a soft roll, the savory South American sandwich known as choripán. “Many people save it for salad, and I tell them olive oil is for all food, you know.” Denise knows. She is a superlative olive oil taster, an in-demand adjudicator of olive oil competitions around the globe, from Los Ange-les to Turkey to China. Also an outstanding home chef, Denise treated me and my Merry Band of Tasters to a mouth-watering celebratory lunch at her home, a converted farmhouse in the town of Codegua, where she lives with her husband, Luis, Rottweiler Augustina, and a sheep named Pio Pio.

  When we pulled up on a perfectly crisp autumn day—remember, Chile’s seasons are the opposite of ours—Luis was already manning the grill next to their tiled patio, as Pio Pio munched on grass in a corner of the yard. Denise ushered us to the table, where we whetted our appetite with marinated olives, some stuffed with blanched almonds and others with jamón Serrano (see the recipe on below). Lifting glasses of lime-hued pisco sour, we toasted to another collaborative culinary venture.

  Then, savoring the food-friendliness of our dazzling olive oil, we dined like kings on the afore-mentioned choripán, topped with one of two zesty pebres (Chilean salsa), and satisfying empanadas, warm from the grill and filled with pino (beef). For dessert, Denise wooed us with exquisitely tiered slices of milhojas, a Chilean millefeuille cake of sweet crepes layered with dulce de leche. I am swooning just remembering it.

  

  I first met Denise more than a decade ago, in 2013, when she was director of exports at the Don Rafael Estate, one of Chile’s pioneer ultra-premium olive oil producers. As two supertasters, Denise and I hit it off from the start—I loved hearing about her adventures as an international olive oil judge, and she was intrigued to learn about my mission to provide the world’s finest fresh-pressed olive oil to Club members year-round. We first collaborated on an exclusive Club selection in 2020 and have worked together ever since. I adore strolling through the olive groves with her, stopping to test the fruit for ripeness (see photo on above).

  Denise and I also share a pressing desire to educate others about the extraordinary flavors and bounteous health benefits of EVOO. In recent years, Denise has partnered with local grade schools to help foster healthy eating habits among schoolchildren, teaching eager kids about gardening and Chile’s abundant, nutritious produce. “Tia Denise,” the kids cheer, as they run to her—it’s amazing to witness. Denise’s warm, generous personality, delicately calibrated judgment, and exquisitely discriminating palate are mirrored in the qualities of this quarter’s mild selection. “Every collaboration is also a celebration,” Denise says, of its creators as well as of the olive varieties.

  

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

  This Arbequina enhanced with a touch of Coratina is bright, harmonious, and very complex. On the nose, we sensed fresh-cut grass, sweet almond, lettuce, green apple, mint, and hints of celery and lemon zest. On the palate, we noted fresh walnuts and the sweetness of green banana and fennel, plus Romaine lettuce and oregano, the bitterness of Belgian endive, and the lingering spiciness of celery leaves and white pepper.

  Enjoy it with eggs, morning smoothies, lighter vinaigrettes, pasta salads, and salads with fruit; pan-seared cilantro citrus fish* and other mild fish, ceviche, and grilled chicken; quinoa bowls, rice dishes, cauliflower fritters, pastelera de choclo and other fresh corn dishes, artichokes, and asparagus; brie, ricotta, mozzarella, and other mild cheeses; hummus; stone fruit, baked goods, dulce de leche trifle, vanilla ice cream, and yogurt.

  *See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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  This Quarter’s Second Selection

  • Producer: El Agrónomo, La Estrella, Chile
  • Olive Varieties: Coratina, Frantoio, Arbequina, Arbosana and Koroneiki
  • Flavor Profile: Medium

  

  A large map of the farm hangs in the tasting room at Agrícola Pobeña. It’s a colorful jigsaw puzzle that identifies the locations of all their olive fruit varietals—I like to think of it as a visual representation of the skills of master agronomist Juan Carlos Pérez. Rather than cluster each varietal together, he has created a lot of interplay to maximize sun exposure as well as changes in elevation, from flat areas to hilly ones where hand harvesting is a must.

  Juan Carlos was drawn to agriculture as a child. Of his parents’ six sons, he was the only one who would excitedly sit next to his dad, a farmer, on his tractor. Fittingly, Juan Carlos’s youngest, eight-year-old Laura, is already showing signs of wanting to follow in his footsteps.

  He had a blank slate when he arrived at the farm, excited at the prospect of growing a wide range of varietals, now 11 in all. He planted the first tree with the Alonso family, and it’s been a happy marriage ever since. Deeply knowledgeable across fields from earth science to biochemistry, Juan Carlos understands the unique terroir of this region like the back of his hand.

  I asked him what makes Chilean extra virgin olive oils so special. “Location, location, location—we’re just 40 kilometers from the sea in a climate so similar to the Mediterranean,” he answered. “The topography of the farm is also key. We have a lot of gentle hills and have oriented the trees to the sun. Each oil has a different profile based on where the trees were planted. I feel that the oils from olives grown in the hills are more powerful—and those are the ones you used for the oils for Club members,” Juan Carlos said proudly.

  

  This very special olive oil is a veritable United Nations of varietals, with Coratina and Frantoio representing the Italian contingent, Arbequina and Arbosana from Spain, and Koroneiki from Greece. It’s a masterful blending of five distinct “voices” that we orchestrated into a harmonious chorus.

  

  Despite all the demands of the farm—Juan Carlos now turns his attention to propagating new trees, pruning and nurturing in preparation for the next season—he always amazes me with how he happy he looks. His calm demeanor has helped him retain a strong field team that comes back year after year. They gain more experience with each season, in turn making the harvest run smoothly.

  I believe that a truly great olive oil starts with the fruit, in the grove, in the hands of the agronomist, who then works hand in hand with a master miller to turn amazing fruit into extraordinary olive oil. With his attention to detail and brilliant results, Juan Carlos is raising the bar for other agronomists around the world. We celebrate him by naming this exceptional olive oil El Agrónomo, after this star agronomist. When you taste it, you will too!

  

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

  Only a talented agronomist could have made it possible to create this blend of five olive varietals originating from Italy, Spain, and Greece. The aroma is lush, with notes of Belgian endive, walnuts and almonds, green banana, baby spinach, Tuscan kale, arugula, and thyme, plus hints of vanilla bean, cinnamon, and lime zest. We tasted green almond, artichoke, escarole, arugula, and rosemary, the bitterness of chicory and radicchio, and spiciness of both Szechuan and black peppercorns.

  Rich and verdant, this versatile olive oil will enhance pork, turkey, seafood dishes such as grilled shrimp with pisco and merquèn* and vieiras a la parmesana, and fattier fish, like sardines, tuna, and salmon; white and sweet potatoes, broccoli, and grilled vegetables; salads with nuts; beans, lentils, and grains; guacamole and other avocado dishes; pesto; and chocolate desserts.

  *See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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  This Quarter’s Third Selection

  • Producer: Abel Alonso, La Estrella, Chile
  • Olive Varieties: Picual
  • Flavor Profile: Bold

  

  You’d be hard-pressed to meet anyone as gregarious as Juanjo Alonso, the youngest of five brothers, all of whom are involved in the various businesses started by their father, Abel. I find his joie de vivre contagious and look forward to spending time with him every year.

  Juanjo’s journey from student at the San Francisco Art Institute in California to head of Chile’s premier olive oil producer began soon after he graduated. The budding artist supported himself as a house painter. Knowing that Juanjo had no interest in the family’s main concern, a very successful shoe company, Abel was able to eventually lure him back to Chile by offering to pay him the equivalent of a year’s salary to paint its corporate offices!

  

  It wasn’t long before Abel shared his vision for an olive farm with Juanjo, the son he felt was destined for the project. Abel was born in the Basque region of Spain in 1935, at the start of the political and economic unrest that would lead to the country’s civil war. His family survived thanks to the food they grew in their garden, the memory that inspired his new quest.

  One day he asked Juanjo to check out a potential property with him. “I had fallen in love with the majestic olive trees during my time in Northern California and had already started googling ‘olive trees’ and ‘olive farming,’ so I knew that even though the farm we visited was very nice, it was at too high an elevation considering the proximity to the Andes. ‘Olives don’t like frost, so this is not the property for us,’ I told my dad. And he immediately put me in charge of finding the right one!” Juanjo recounted.

  Fast forward to today, and the fruits of all their early decisions are evident with award after award lining the mill walls. What I truly admire is that they allot resources for continual improvement, always reinvesting to maintain their high standards, from updating their irrigation system to buying new tractors to speed the fruit to the mill. It’s wonderful to hear Juanjo credit the Club for helping Chilean olive oils getting the recognition they so rightly deserve.

  

  There’s also sad news to share. Late last summer, Abel became gravely ill while on a visit to Spain. Back in Chile, he refused treatment, preferring to spend his last days at the farm surrounded by his adoring family. “One after-noon, we sat together, looking out at the olive groves. ‘We made it, you and I—I believed in you, and I am so proud that you made our dream a reality,’ he told me.” Juanjo’s admiration for his father and the heartbreak over his loss were evident in his eyes.

  We pay homage to Abel with this very special oil that bears his name and a label featuring the family’s coat of arms and a Basque-inspired font. I know he would have been ecstatic about this magnificent Picual I’ve created for you, a varietal from his native Spain, a zesty, complex character like Abel himself.

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

  A Picual lover’s dream, this is a bold expression of the cultivar. It’s intensely green and herbaceous on the nose: green tomato and tomato leaf, celery, arugula, and Asian pear, with notes of chopped basil and peppermint. It’s very green and vegetal on the palate, with the flavors of wheatgrass, baby kale, spinach, and pear; the astringency of green tea, bitterness and zest of arugula, and spiciness of green peppercorns; plus notes of wild mint, parsley, and rosemary.

  Its big personality is perfect for hearty dishes like chorizo hash,* chicken empanadas, arrollado de huaso, costillar de chancho, grilled steaks, lamb, duck, and wild game; dark leafy green salads and bold vinaigrettes; crudités; tomato recipes from pizza and bruschetta to gazpacho and sauces; hearty pasta dishes; cured meats; blue and other aged cheeses; and crusty sourdough breads.

  *See the recipe section for bolded dishes.

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  Olive Oil and Health

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  Kudos from Club Members

  Heaven in a bottle
  Your olive oils are amazing! It’s like heaven in a bottle!

  Cindy G.Asheville, NC

  I crave it
  It’s a daily habit since I first ordered it over a year ago. It makes my food taste great, and now I crave it. Sometimes I’ll just pour it straight into my mouth.

  Christina C.,Murfreesboro, TN

  "Keep up the good work"
  Please inform T. J. that I am very glad I found his service. Of course I love the Olive Oil and the recipes that come with it. Surprisingly the additional information that comes within the newsletter is amazing. Keep up the good work you are providing. It is very much appreciated.

  Trudi B.Arlington Heights, IL

  Noticeably enriched flavor
  I’m loving them so far! Everything I’ve made with them has had a noticeably enriched flavor. I also love having the 3 different types to choose from depending on what I’m making.

  Alegra O.Virginia Beach, VA

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  Recipes
• Grilled Shrimp with Pisco and Merquén

  This dish features two iconic Chilean ingredients, merquèn and brandy-like pisco (in a pinch, you can use white tequila or rum instead).

  Ingredients

  • Juice of 1 lime
  • 1/4 cup pisco
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons honey
  • 2 teaspoons merquèn
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for basting
  • 1 1/2 pounds large shrimp, peeled and deveined
  • 3 limes, quartered, for serving

  Directions

  Step 1

  In a small bowl, whisk the lime juice, pisco, honey, merquèn, and salt until the salt dissolves. Add the olive oil and whisk until the mixture is emulsified. Place the shrimp in a bowl large enough to hold them. Gently toss with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Drain the shrimp and thread onto bamboo skewers.

  Step 2

  Heat your grill to medium-high. Brush and oil the grill grate. Arrange the shrimp skewers on the grate. Grill for 3 minutes per side, basting with olive oil, or until the shrimp are lightly charred and opaque. Baste a final time. Remove the shrimp from the skewers before serving with the limes.

  Serves 4

• Vieiras a la Parmesana (Parmesan-Crusted Scallops)

  This dish is a variation on the wildly popular machas a la parmesana, local razor clams (using oysters is also popular). Traditionally, each scallop is cooked separately in its own half-shell. While it’s rare to find scallops still in the shell in the US, you can buy cooking-grade shells for an elegant presentation. For simplicity, I like to make them in a broiler-safe baking dish or individual ramekins.

  Ingredients

  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 1 tablespoon white wine
  • 1 teaspoon lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, plus more for garnish
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 pound sea scallops, preferably dry
  • 3 ounces shredded Manchego or Jack cheese
  • 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • Fresh nutmeg

  Directions

  Step 1

  In a large bowl, whisk together the olive oil, wine, lemon juice, parsley, salt, and pepper.

  Step 2

  Rinse and pat dry the scallops, then toss them in the marinade—there should be only enough liquid to lightly coat them. Set your oven to broil while they marinate for 15 minutes.

  Step 3

  Arrange the scallops in a baking dish or among
  4 individual ramekins. Top each scallop with a spoonful of shredded cheese, then a sprinkle of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Use a Microplane grater to dust nutmeg over the tops.

  Step 4

  Place under the broiler for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the cheese has melted and browned and the scallops are firm to the touch. Sprinkle with more parsley and drizzle with olive oil before serving.

  Serves 4

• Chicken Empanadas

  Many dishes were introduced to Latin America by Spanish explorers and colonists, including handheld meat pies called empanadas. Here, a flaky crust encloses a savory mixture of chicken, peppers, and an olive, which is traditional in Chilean empanadas. Merquèn is a popular Chilean spice blend of goat’s horn chile, coriander, and salt, which imparts a distinctive smoky flavor. Goya and other brands sell precut dough disks.

  Ingredients

  For the chicken:

  • 4 chicken thighs or 2 breasts, skinless and boneless
  • 4 cups low-sodium store-bought or homemade chicken broth
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt

  For the filling:

  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 red bell pepper, diced
  • 3 scallions, green and white parts thinly sliced
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin
  • 1 teaspoon merquèn or chili powder
  • Sea salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 2 cups of finely diced or shredded chicken (from above)
  • 2 tablespoons chicken broth, if needed
  • 12 stuffed olives (see Denise’s Stuffed Olives if you’d like to make your own)

  For the dough:

  • 12 premade empanada dough disks, a package of puff pastry, or homemade pastry dough
  • 1 egg
  • 1 tablespoon of water

  Directions

  Step 1

  Place the chicken and the broth in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, then immediately reduce the heat to a simmer. Cook the chicken for 10 minutes, then remove the pan from the heat. Cover for 10 minutes, then check the temperature of the chicken. An instant-read thermometer should reach 165°F. Remove from the broth, saving a few spoonfuls. Let the meat cool slightly, then finely dice or shred.

  Step 2

  Heat a large skillet over medium heat. When hot, add the olive oil, red pepper, scallions, and garlic. Sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cumin and merquèn. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let cool. Add the chicken as well as some or all of the chicken broth if the mixture seems a bit dry. (You don’t want it wet, either.)

  Step 3

  If you’re using puff pastry or pastry dough, roll it out to 1/8 inch thick. Cut into twelve 5-inch circles and arrange on two parchment paper–lined baking sheets. Heat the oven to 400°F.

  Step 4

  Whisk the egg and water. Put about 2 tablespoons of filling and an olive on half of each pastry round. Lightly brush the edges of the pastry with the egg wash and fold one side over the other to form a half moon. Use the tines of a fork to crimp the edges. Brush the tops and sides of the empanadas with the egg wash. Bake the empanadas for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown.

  Makes 12

• Summer Lentil Salad

  This protein-packed legume makes a satisfying meatless meal on its own as well as a zesty side dish for grilled tuna or salmon. 

  Ingredients

  For the lentils:

  • 1 cup dried French (du Puy) lentils
  • 3 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken stock, more broth or water as needed
  • 2 stalks celery, diced
  • 2 large carrots, diced
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1 small red onion, diced
  • 1 large bell pepper, diced
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • Salt as desired

  For the dressing:

  • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, more to taste
  • 1 small shallot, minced
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

  Directions

  Step 1

  Place the lentils in a sieve and rinse under cold running water, picking through to remove any pebbles. Bring the stock to a boil in a large pot, then add the lentils, celery, carrots, bay leaf, and salt. Turn down the heat to maintain a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the lentils are tender but still toothsome (think al dente), about 25 minutes. Check 5 minutes in advance to make sure there’s still some liquid so that the lentils won’t scorch. If the lentils aren’t tender once the broth evaporates, add 1/2 cup more liquid and continue cooking 5-10 more minutes.

  Step 2

  While the lentils are cooking, make the dressing. In a medium bowl, mix the vinegar, shallot, black pepper, and Dijon. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Taste and add more vinegar if desired.

  Step 3

  When the lentils are ready, strain off any remaining liquid and transfer to a large bowl; discard the bay leaf. Fold in the red onion, bell pepper, and parsley. Pour on the dressing and toss to coat. Taste and add salt as desired. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

  Yields 8 servings

• Arrollado de Huaso (Stuffed Pork Loin)

  Reminiscent of Italian porchetta, my Chilean version is filled with chorizo and a popular vegetable in Chile—sweet potato, or camote. Forming the chorizo into a rectangle with a rolling pin helps more evenly distribute the meat. If you’d rather not flatten the pork yourself, simply ask your butcher to butterfly it for you.

  Ingredients

  • One 2 1/2- to 3-pound pork loin roast
  • 1 pound fresh (raw) chorizo
  • 1 pound sweet potatoes
  • 3 tablespoons chopped mixed fresh herbs, such as sage, rosemary, and thyme, plus extra sprigs for garnish
  • Sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Extra virgin olive oil

  Directions

  Step 1

  Butterfly the pork loin: Place the pork loin on a cutting board. Using a long slender knife, create a slab about 3/4 inch thick by cutting horizontally from one side of the pork loin to the other, leaving a “hinge.” Roll open the pork and repeat the horizontal slicing. Continue unrolling and slicing until you have a flat piece of pork about 1/2 inch thick. Use a kitchen mallet to flatten any uneven spots.

  Step 2

  Place the chorizo between two sheets of parchment paper. Using a rolling pin, shape the chorizo into a rectangle about 1 inch shorter on each side than the pork; place in the freezer for 30 minutes. In the meantime, transfer the pork loin to a rimmed sheet pan. Cover with paper or plastic wrap and refrigerate.

  Step 3

  Peel the sweet potatoes and cut them into 1/2-inch cubes. Place in a saucepan with enough cold salted water to cover. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer until tender but not soft, 10 to 12 minutes. Drain and set aside.

  Step 4

  Heat the oven to 375°F. Take out the pork and chorizo and discard the wrap. Position the chorizo over the pork loin. Evenly sprinkle with the herbs and sweet potato cubes, then drizzle the potatoes with olive oil. Roll the pork loin tightly (like a jellyroll), enclosing the filling. Tie at 2-inch intervals with butcher’s string. Generously brush the outside of the pork loin with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Place on a rack in a roasting pan.

  Step 5

  Roast the pork until an instant-read thermometer reaches 150°F, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours.

  Step 6

  Remove the roast from the oven. Let it rest for 10 minutes. Snip and remove the strings. Carve into 1-inch slices and shingle on a platter for serving. Garnish with fresh herbs.

  Serves 6

• Cauliflower Fritters

  This is a popular dish in Chile. Parboiling the cauliflower makes the fritters tender.

  Ingredients

  • 1 head cauliflower, about 2 pounds
  • 1 tablespoon sea salt
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1/2 cup flour
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1/2 cup milk
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
  • 1 lemon cut into wedges

  Directions

  Step 1

  Trim the stem off the cauliflower and remove the largest leaves. Bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil. Add the 1 tablespoon salt and the whole head of cauliflower, stem end up. Cook for 5 minutes, then carefully remove it from the water and let cool on a cutting board.

  Step 2

  In a large bowl, whisk the eggs, then add the flour, cheese, milk, salt, pepper, and 1 tablespoon olive oil; set aside.

  Step 3

  When cool enough to handle, remove any remaining leaves from the cauliflower and cut the head into slices, then cut each slice in half. You can also use any loose florets—coarsely chop them and add to the remaining batter after sautéing the main pieces.

  Step 4

  Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the 1/4 cup olive oil. Dip a piece of cauliflower into the batter, shake off the excess, and place in the pan. Continue until the pan is full, but don’t crowd the fritters. Sauté for 3 minutes on each side, or until golden. Transfer the fritters to a platter and repeat until all the fritters have been cooked, adding more oil to the pan, if needed, between batches. Sprinkle on the parsley, drizzle with olive oil, and serve with the lemons.

  Serves 4

• Borgoña

  Far simpler than a sangria, this Chilean drink is just red wine and macerated strawberries—sweet and refreshing at the same time.

  Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 cups fresh strawberries
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
  • 1 bottle Chilean red wine
  • Optional garnishes: lime slices and fresh mint

  Directions

  Step 1

  Rinse, pat dry, and hull the strawberries, then cut them into pieces and place in a bowl. Toss with the olive oil and sugar and let sit for a half-hour.

  Step 2

  Transfer the berries to a large pitcher and add the bottle of red wine. Chill for two or more hours. Serve over ice, garnished as desired.

  Serves 6

• Pan-Seared Cilantro Citrus Fish

  This marinade enhances all types of firm white fish, such as halibut, sole, cod, and hake, which in Chile is called merluza and is extremely popular because of its sweet, mild taste. Fun fact: What’s sold in the US as Chilean sea bass is typically neither Chilean nor bass but rather Patagonian toothfish, rebranded to make it sound more appealing. The sea bass eaten in Chile is actually called corvina. This marinated fish is delicious grilled, but here I’m detailing a stovetop method that turns the marinade into a sauce.

  Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
  • Zest and juice (2 tablespoons) of 1 lime
  • Zest and juice (1/2 cup) of 1 orange
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro, plus a few sprigs for garnish
  • 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 pounds white fish fillet
  • 1 tablespoon cold butter

  Directions

  Step 1

  Mix 2 tablespoons olive oil, both zests and juices, cilantro, salt, and pepper in a deep pie plate, then add the fillet, skin side up. Marinate 1 to 2 hours in the fridge.

  Step 2

  Heat a large skillet. When hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, the fillet (skin side down), and the marinade. Bring the liquid to a boil, then cover the pan, and turn down the heat to a low simmer. Steam for 15 minutes or until the fish is cooked through (it should reach 145°F on an instant-read thermometer).

  Step 3

  Transfer the fillet to a platter and raise the heat under the skillet to reduce and thicken the sauce, then whisk in the butter. Cut the fillet into 4 portions, plate, and garnish with the sauce, cilantro, and a drizzle of olive oil.

  Serves 4

For Your Best Health

The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

According to a new study from researchers at the Columbia University Mailman School of Public Health and The Robert Butler Columbia Aging Center, a very specific brain-boosting diet has been linked to reduced dementia risk and a slower pace of aging. The study, “Diet, Pace of Biological Aging, and Risk of Dementia in the Framingham Heart Study,” published in the Annals of Neurology, also explains how the diet helps slow down the processes of biological aging.

“Much attention to nutrition in dementia research focuses on the way specific nutrients affect the brain,” said Daniel Belsky, PhD, associate professor of epidemiology and a senior author of the study. “We tested the hypothesis that healthy diet protects against dementia by slowing down the body’s overall pace of biological aging.”

The researchers used data from the second generation of the Framingham Heart Study, the Offspring Cohort. Participants were 60 years of age or older and free of dementia and had available dietary, epigenetic, and follow-up data. Follow-up was done at nine examinations, approximately every 4 to 7 years, which included a physical exam, lifestyle-related questionnaires, blood sampling, and, starting in 1991, neurocognitive testing. Of 1,644 participants included in the analyses, 140 developed dementia. 

To measure the pace of aging, the researchers used an epigenetic clock called DunedinPACE developed by Dr. Belsky and colleagues at Duke University and the University of Otago in Dunedin, New Zealand. The clock measures how fast a person’s body is deteriorating as they grow older, “like a speedometer for the biological processes of aging,” explained Dr. Belsky.

“We have some strong evidence that a healthy diet can protect against dementia,” said Yian Gu, PhD, associate professor of neurological sciences at Columbia University Irving Medical Center and the other senior author of the study, “but the mechanism of this protection is not well understood.” Past research linked both diet and dementia risk to an accelerated pace of biological aging. “Testing the hypothesis that multi-system biological aging is a mechanism of underlying diet-dementia associations was the logical next step,” explained Dr. Belsky.

The research determined that higher adherence to the MIND diet slowed the pace of aging as measured by DunedinPACE and reduced risks for dementia and mortality. Furthermore, slower DunedinPACE accounted for 27% of the diet-dementia association and 57% of the diet-mortality association.

“Our findings suggest that slower pace of aging mediates part of the relationship of healthy diet with reduced dementia risk, and therefore, monitoring pace of aging may inform dementia prevention,” said first author Aline Thomas, PhD, of the Columbia Department of Neurology and Taub Institute for Research on Alzheimer’s Disease and the Aging Brain. “However, a portion of the diet-dementia association remains unexplained, therefore we believe that continued investigation of brain-specific mechanisms in well-designed mediation studies is warranted.”

“We suggest that additional observational studies be conducted to investigate direct associations of nutrients with brain aging, and if our observations are also confirmed in more diverse populations, monitoring biological aging may indeed inform dementia prevention,” noted Dr. Belsky.

Exactly What Is the MIND Diet?

MIND is a hybrid of the Mediterranean and DASH diets, tailored to reflect key findings from nutrition and dementia research. It details serving sizes of specific foods to focus on and which to limit, primarily those high in saturated fat, which is known to negatively affect brain health. 

Foods and portions to eat every day: 1/2 to 1 cup green leafy vegetables, 1/2 cup other vegetables, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and three 1-ounce servings of whole grains. 

Foods and portions to eat over the course of each week: 5 ounces nuts, 2-1/2 cups berries, 1-1/2 cups legumes, two 3-to-5-ounce servings of skinless poultry, and 3-to-5 ounces fish.

Foods to limit to these weekly totals: three or fewer 3-to-5-ounce servings of red and processed meats, 1 ounce whole-fat cheese, 1 fried or fast food, and 4 sweet servings. If desired, no more than 1 teaspoon of butter or stick of margarine a day.