Olive Oil Hunter News #170

Horiatiki Salad Recipe and The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

I’m a huge fan of both Greek and Middle Eastern salads, the ingredients of which are not only delicious but also mainstays of the MIND (Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay) diet, a way of eating designed for brain health. It’s an offshoot of the super-healthy Mediterranean diet and the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diet. Why the distinction? Because the latest research on the MIND diet shows it can slow aging as well as reduce dementia risk. Add this to the list of the benefits of olive oil—it’s one of the super foods that MIND suggests including every day.

Horiatiki: The Sequel!

• Olive Oil Hunter News #258

  Roasted Leg of Lamb Recipe, Spotlight on Dijon Mustard, The Role of the Roasting Pan Rack, A New Opinion on Intermittent Fasting and Understanding Nearsightedness Causes

  Holidays are a great occasion for families to get together, and a roasted leg of lamb makes a spectacular—and tasty—centerpiece. Here’s everything you need to know. You’ll also find interesting research showing that intermittent fasting, a popular diet trend, might not be as effective as early studies indicated. Finally, scientists suggest that some habits within our control may be responsible for skyrocketing cases of nearsightedness.

  Roasted Leg of Lamb

  

  Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

  Dijon Mustard

  

  Named for the French city in Burgundy where it was created, Dijon mustard is not only a staple of French cooking but also of cuisines around the world. Dijon mustard is a delicious blend of brown or black mustard seeds, white wine and/or white wine vinegar, salt and spices, with variations from brand to brand, notably Maille and Grey Poupon. Classic Dijon is a pale yellow-brown and completely smooth and creamy. (Those with visible seeds and a coarse texture are often milder.) An essential in vinaigrettes and as a sandwich spread, Dijon makes a great addition to marinades and sauces. 

  

  Quick Kitchen Nugget

  The Role of the Roasting Pan Rack

  Many recipes call for a rack to be placed in the roasting pan to elevate a leg of lamb, turkey, or rib roast, to name a few examples. This allows the oven’s heat to reach (and brown) the entire surface of the food. Clean up can be made easier by first lining the roasting pan with foil, and the rack prevents the meat from touching the foil while it cooks. Putting about an inch of water in the bottom of the pan is done to create steam, which keeps the meat moist and prevents the drippings from burning and negatively affecting the taste of the meat.

  

  For Your Best Health 

  A New Opinion on Intermittent Fasting

  Over the past decade, numerous studies on intermittent fasting sparked new hope for people whose other weight-loss efforts weren’t as successful as desired. But a new major research review suggests the reality may not live up to the hype and that intermittent fasting does not produce significantly more weight loss than standard diet advice or even no structured plan at all. The findings challenge the widespread belief that changing when you eat leads to better weight-loss results than other approaches.

  The researchers examined data from 22 randomized clinical trials involving 1,995 adults in North America, Europe, China, Australia, and South America. The trials tested different fasting methods, including alternate-day fasting, periodic fasting, and time-restricted feeding. Most followed participants for up to one year.

  When compared with conventional diet advice or no intervention, intermittent fasting did not produce a clinically meaningful difference in weight loss. In practical terms, fasting schedules did not outperform more traditional guidance or doing nothing specific.

  Researchers also noted that side effects were not consistently reported across studies, making it difficult to fully assess potential risks. Since many of the trials examined were small and uneven in their reporting, the overall evidence base remains limited.

  “Intermittent fasting just doesn’t seem to work for overweight or obese adults trying to lose weight,” said Luis Garegnani, PhD, lead author of the review from the Universidad Hospital Italiano de Buenos Aires Cochrane Associate Centre. “Intermittent fasting may be a reasonable option for some people, but the current evidence doesn’t justify the enthusiasm we see on social media.”

  Another concern is the lack of long-term research. Few studies have examined how well intermittent fasting works over extended periods. “Obesity is a chronic condition. Short-term trials make it difficult to guide long-term decision-making for patients and clinicians,” Dr. Garegnani added.

  “With the current evidence available, it’s hard to make a general recommendation,” said Eva Madrid, the study’s senior author. “Doctors will need to take a case-by-case approach when advising an overweight adult on losing weight.”

  

  Fitness Flash

  Understanding Nearsightedness Causes

  For years, the sharp rise in myopia, or nearsightedness, has largely been blamed on growing screen use, particularly among children and young adults. However, new research from scientists at the SUNY College of Optometry suggests the explanation may be more nuanced. Their study proposes that myopia may be influenced less by screens themselves and more by a common indoor behavior: extended close-up focusing in dim lighting, which reduces the amount of light reaching the retina.

  “Myopia has reached near-epidemic levels worldwide, yet we still don’t fully understand why,” said Jose-Manuel Alonso, MD, PhD, SUNY Distinguished Professor and senior author of the study. “Our findings suggest that a common underlying factor may be how much light reaches the retina during sustained near work, particularly indoors.”

  Myopia causes distant objects to appear blurry and has become increasingly common around the globe. It now affects nearly 50% of young adults in the United States and Europe and close to 90% in parts of East Asia. Although genetics contribute to risk, the rapid rise over just a few generations points strongly to environmental influences.

  

  In laboratory research, myopia can be triggered in animal models through visual deprivation or the use of negative lenses, and these two methods are believed to involve different neuronal pathways. Doctors also slow myopia progression using multiple strategies that likely act through separate biological mechanisms such as multifocal lenses, ophthalmic atropine, contrast reduction, and promoting time outdoors. The researchers now suggest there may be a single neuronal explanation that connects these different methods of both inducing and controlling myopia.

  This new hypothesis attempts to solve a long-standing question in vision science: Why do such varied factors, from close-up work and dim indoor lighting to treatments like atropine drops, multifocal lenses, and increased time outdoors, all seem to affect how myopia progresses?

  “In bright outdoor light, the pupil constricts to protect the eye while still allowing ample light to reach the retina,” explained Urusha Maharjan, a SUNY Optometry doctoral student who conducted the study. “When people focus on close objects indoors, such as phones, tablets, or books, the pupil can also constrict, not because of brightness, but to sharpen the image. In dim lighting, this combination may significantly reduce retinal illumination.”

  Under this proposed mechanism, myopia may develop when insufficient light reaches the retina during sustained close-up work in low-light settings. If lighting is too dim and the pupil narrows excessively at short viewing distances, retinal activity may not be strong enough to support normal visual development. In contrast, exposure to bright light allows the pupil to constrict in response to brightness rather than focusing distance, helping maintain healthier retinal stimulation.

  The study also found that negative lenses decrease retinal illumination by causing the pupil to narrow through accommodation. This narrowing intensifies when viewing distance is shortened or when overly strong negative lenses are worn. It becomes even more pronounced when accommodation is sustained for prolonged periods of time and increases further once the eye has already become myopic. The researchers also observed additional disruptions in eye turning during accommodation and reduced effectiveness of eye blinks in triggering pupil constriction in myopic eyes. If validated, this proposed mechanism could significantly change how scientists and clinicians think about myopia progression. 

  “This is not a final answer,” Dr. Alonso emphasized. “But the study offers a testable hypothesis that reframes how visual habits, lighting, and eye focusing interact. It’s a hypothesis grounded in measurable physiology that brings together many pieces of existing evidence. More research is needed, but it gives us a new way to think about prevention and treatment.”

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• Roasted Leg of Lamb

  If you have a butcher where you shop, ask them to prep the leg for you by removing the fell to skip this step. If not, follow the directions below. Overnight marination deepens the flavor of this traditional holiday meal. Serve with fresh spring vegetables and new potatoes.

  Ingredients

  • 1 bone-in leg of lamb, between 7 and 8 pounds 

  For the marinade:

  • 6 garlic cloves
  • 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons whole grain Dijon mustard
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for the cooking rack
  • Juice of 1 lemon
  • 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary needles 

  Directions

  Step 1

  Prep the lamb by removing the fell, the thin membrane overlaying the meat: Place the tip of a sharp thin knife under it at one end to lift it, then tug to pull it away. Trim most of the visible fat but leave a very thin layer in place—this adds to the flavor of the cooked meat. Next, use a paring knife to make uniform 1/2” slits in the meaty parts of the leg. Transfer to a platter.

  Step 2

  Mince the garlic cloves in a mini chopper, then add the rest of the ingredients and process until smooth. Slather the mixture on the lamb, working it into the slits. Tightly cover the leg with parchment paper, place in a plastic bag, and refrigerate overnight.

  Step 3

  Set your oven to 400°F. For easy cleanup, line your roasting pan with foil. Place a V-shaped rack in the pan and brush it lightly with olive oil. Place the lamb on the rack, then fill the bottom of the pan with 1/4” water. Place in the oven and roast for 15 minutes. Without opening the oven door, reduce the temperature to 350°F. Continue roasting until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the meatiest part of the leg reaches between 130°F and 135°F, about 20 minutes per pound of lamb.

  Step 4

  Out of the oven, let the lamb rest for 15 minutes before slicing. 

  Yields 8 servings

• Mediterranean Diet Can Reduce Risk of Both Stroke Types in Women

  Stroke ranks as the second-leading cause of death worldwide as well as the third-leading cause of death and disability combined.¹ Women have a greater lifetime risk of stroke than men—in part because women live longer, on average, than men do, and because stroke risk in women rises sharply after menopause.²

  A substantial body of evidence shows that the Mediterranean Diet (MeDi) reduces stroke risk in both women and men, but little has been published on the MeDi’s effects by stroke type in women.³ In
  the US, about 80% of strokes are ischemic—a clot blocks blood flow to or within the brain—and the remainder are hemorrhagic, in which a blood vessel in the brain ruptures and bleeds.⁴

  The journal Neurology Open Access recently published an analysis of data from the California Teachers Study (CTS), which followed more than 130,000 women for more than 25 years, starting in 1995.³ This analysis excluded those with a history of stroke or with missing dietary data, for a total cohort of 105,614 women. Average age at the study’s outset was 52.³

  At the start of the study, participants answered a validated dietary questionnaire that asked how often they consumed 103 food and beverage items/groups during the previous year, and in what quantities
  (small, medium, large serving size). Responses were converted to a score that reflected adherence to the Mediterranean Diet (MeDi), ranging from 0 to 9. Participants were stratified by MeDi scores into low (0–2), moderate (3–5), and high (6–9) MeDi adherence groups: 12.5% low, 57.5% moderate, 30% high.³

  MeDi is typically characterized by high intake of fruits and vegetables, legumes, and whole grains, with olive oil as the primary source of fat; a moderate intake of fish; and minimal intake of meat and dairy products. Some versions of the MeDi include moderate alcohol consumption.³

  During the 25 years of follow-up, the CTS study population experienced a total of 4,083 stroke events: 3,358 ischemic and 725 hemorrhagic.³

  Participants with high adherence to the MeDi had a 23% lower overall stroke risk compared with the low-adherence group. When results were adjusted for patient characteristics, including smoking, BMI, and demographics, overall stroke risk was still reduced by 18% with high adherence to the MeDi. Even a one-unit increase in MeDi adherence was associated with a significant decrease in stroke risk.³

  When analyzed by stroke subtypes, higher adherence to the MeDi resulted in a significant decrease
  in stroke risk for ischemic stroke as well as for hemorrhagic stroke. This effect was seen across premenopausal, menopausal, and postmenopausal women in the study, including participants taking hormone treatment.³

  This study, with strengths including a large population, long-range follow-up, and analysis by stroke subtype, adds to the body of evidence of the preventative health benefits of the MeDi and helps identify dietary choices that can help reduce stroke risk in women.³

  References: 1. Feigin VL, Brainin M, Norrving B, et al. World Stroke Organization (WSO): Global stroke fact sheet 2022 [published correction appears in Int J Stroke. 2022;17(4):478. doi:10.1177/17474930221080343]. Int J Stroke. 2022;17(1):18–29. 2. Rexrode KM, Madsen TE, Yu, AYX, Carcel C, Lichtman JH, Miller EC. The impact of sex and gender on stroke. Circulation Res. 2022;130(4):512-528. 3. Sherzai AZ, Cuble EL, Spielfogel ES, et al. Mediterranean diet and the risk of stroke subtypes in women. Neurol Open Access. 2026;2:e000062. 4. Prabhakaran S, Gonzales NR, Zachrison KS, et al. 2026 guideline for the early management of patients with acute ischemic stroke. Stroke. 2026; doi:10.1161/STR.0000000000000513. Online ahead of print.

• Olive Oil Hunter News #257

  Smoked Salmon Rolls Recipe, Spotlight on Smoked Salmon, What Matters More Than Low Carb or Low Fat, and Exercise, a Powerful Treatment for Depression and Anxiety

  Love smoked salmon but tired of the usual bagel routine? These rollups are a snap to make and look oh so elegant! I’m also sharing an in-depth report on what makes for a better low-fat or low-carb diet when it comes to heart health. Plus, read on to learn how exercise could be an even greater game changer for anxiety and depression than previously thought.

  Smoked Salmon Rolls

  

  Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

  Smoked Salmon Varieties

  Beyond traditional smoked salmon, you can now find amazing flavor varieties, such as pastrami style, everything bagel, and even Korean BBQ, from purveyors like Acme Smoked Fish and Barney Greengrass. Some are available in specialty food stores as well as online. Experiment to see what you like best!

  

  

  Quick Kitchen Nugget

  Freezing Smoked Salmon

  You might not know that smoked salmon freezes beautifully, meaning that you can always have some on hand. The key is to freeze it as soon as you buy it to retain its freshness. You can defrost it overnight in the fridge or on the countertop in under an hour. 

  

  For Your Best Health 

  What Matters More Than Low Carb or Low Fat

  Published in JACC, the flagship journal of the American College of Cardiology, a decades-long study of nearly 200,000 adults challenges the low-carb versus low-fat debate. Both eating patterns were tied to lower risk of coronary heart disease (CHD) but only when they focused on nutrient-dense wholesome foods. In contrast, versions built around refined carbohydrates and animal products were associated with higher CHD risk and less-favorable metabolic health markers.

  Low-carbohydrate and low-fat eating plans are very common, yet scientists have not fully understood their long-term effects on heart health, especially when considering the quality of foods included in each pattern. This research stands out as one of the largest and most detailed investigations to date, examining participants’ diet quality, metabolomic data, and CHD risk over more than 30 years.

  “Our findings highlighted that it’s not simply about cutting carbs or fat, but it’s about the quality of foods people choose to construct those diets,” said Zhiyuan Wu, PhD, a postdoctoral research fellow at the Harvard T. H. Chan School of Public Health and lead author of the study. “The efficacy of low-carb and low-fat diets in reducing CHD risk is a topic of ongoing debate, and past studies showed mixed findings.”

  Dr. Wu noted that earlier research may have produced conflicting results because people can follow a low-carb or low-fat diet in very different ways. Some prioritize vegetables, whole grains, and healthy fats, while others rely more heavily on refined grains, processed foods, and animal-based fats. “Focusing only on nutrient compositions but not food quality may not lead to health benefits,” he said.

  The researchers’ analysis also revealed that higher-quality diets were associated with lower triglyceride levels, higher HDL cholesterol, and reduced inflammation. “These results suggest that healthy low-carbohydrate and low-fat diets may share common biological pathways that improve cardiovascular health,” Dr. Wu said. “Focusing on overall diet quality may offer flexibility for individuals to choose eating patterns that align with their preferences while still supporting heart health.”

  The researchers cautioned that the findings may not apply to more extreme dietary approaches and that the results should be interpreted within the ranges of macronutrient intake observed in the study. In addition, dietary information was self-reported, which can introduce measurement error. Because participants were health professionals with generally higher health awareness and better access to care, the findings may not fully represent the general population, although the biological mechanisms involved are unlikely to differ substantially.

  “This study helps move the conversation beyond the long-standing debate over low-carbohydrate versus low-fat diets,” said Harlan M. Krumholz, MD, editor in chief of JACC. “The findings show that what matters most for heart health is the quality of the foods people eat. Whether a diet is lower in carbohydrates or fat, emphasizing plant-based foods, whole grains, and healthy fats is associated with better cardiovascular outcomes.”

  

  Fitness Flash

  Exercise: Powerful Treatment for Depression and Anxiety

  A sweeping review of global research published online in the British Journal of Sports Medicinesuggests that exercise, especially aerobic activities like running, swimming, and dancing, can be one of the most powerful ways to ease depression and anxiety. Across tens of thousands of people aged 10 to 90, exercise consistently reduced symptoms, often matching or even outperforming medication and talk therapy. There are particularly strong benefits for young adults and new mothers. The analysis found that exercise done in supervised or group settings may provide the greatest benefit for people with depression. For anxiety, shorter programs lasting up to eight weeks and involving lower-intensity activity may be most helpful. These effects were seen regardless of age or sex.

  Depression and anxiety impact as many as 1 in 4 people globally, with young people and women experiencing the highest rates, according to the researchers. Earlier studies have already suggested that physical activity compares favorably with psychotherapy and medication for reducing symptoms. Still, important questions remained. It had not been fully understood how exercise works across different age groups, levels of intensity, or frequencies. In addition, many previous large reviews focused only on adults or included participants with other health conditions that could influence outcomes.

  To address these gaps, the researchers set out to evaluate how exercise affects depression and anxiety across the entire lifespan. They also examined whether factors such as exercise type, duration, frequency, intensity, and supervision, and whether it was performed individually or in groups, influenced results.

  The team searched research databases for pooled data analyses of randomized controlled trials published in English through July 2025. These trials compared structured exercise programs with other activities, a placebo, or no active treatment. Eligible studies involved planned, structured, repetitive, and purposeful physical activity intended to improve physical and mental health. All types of exercise were included, across different intensities, frequencies, and settings (individual or group).

  

  All exercise formats were linked to improvements in mental health. For depression, aerobic activity, especially when delivered in supervised or group settings, produced the largest benefits. For anxiety, aerobic, resistance, mind-body, and mixed-exercise programs, each had a medium-sized positive effect.

  The researchers acknowledge several limitations. Definitions of exercise intensity and program length varied across the pooled data analyses. There was also relatively limited pooled data examining exercise effects across every stage of life. Despite all this, they concluded, “This meta-meta-analysis provides robust evidence that exercise effectively reduced depression and anxiety symptoms across all age groups, comparable with, or exceeding, traditional pharmacological or psychological interventions.

  “Group and supervised formats gave the most substantial benefits, underscoring the importance of social factors in mental health interventions. With evidence that different characteristics of exercise appear to impact depression and anxiety at varying magnitudes, tailored exercise programs must be prescribed.

  “Given the cost effectiveness, accessibility, and additional physical health benefits of exercise, these results underscore the potential for exercise as a first-line intervention, particularly in settings where traditional mental health treatments may be less accessible or acceptable.”

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• Smoked Salmon Rolls

  This eye-catching brunch dish gets its zesty taste from marinated cucumbers. Make them a day in advance and you’ll cut prep time to minutes.

  Ingredients

  For the marinated cucumbers:

  • 1 medium cucumber, unpeeled
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1/4 cup chopped red onion
  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh dill
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  For the rolls:

  • 8 ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon, each slice about 6″ long
  • 4 ounces whipped cream cheese, at room temperature 
  • 2 scallions, coarsely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons, each, white and black sesame seeds
  • Optional garnish: fresh chives or dill 

  Directions

  Step 1

  Use the fine slicing blade of a food processor or the slicing side of a box grater to slice the cucumbers, then cut each round into matchsticks. Place in a strainer over an empty bowl and sprinkle with the coarse salt, using your hands to toss well. Let sit for 30 minutes to “sweat” the cucumbers. Rinse thoroughly to remove excess salt, then pat dry with paper towels. 

  Step 2

  Transfer the cucumbers to a large bowl and add the rest of the marinating ingredients, tossing well. Let marinate on the counter for 1 hour or up to overnight in the fridge. 

  Step 3

  To create the rolls, place a large piece of parchment paper on a cutting board. Arrange the salmon slices lengthwise in an overlapping pattern to create a rectangle that’s roughly 12″ across. Fold the scallions into the cream cheese, then spread over the salmon, using a small offset spatula to make an even layer, leaving a 1″ border. Drain the cucumber slices and place about 3/4 cup of them in a strip across the center of the cream cheese. Slowly roll up the salmon along the side closest to you, using the parchment to help form the roll. Chill the roll for 30 minutes to make slicing easier. 

  Step 4

  Use a serrated knife to cut the roll into 12 pieces. Place the sesame seeds in a small dish and roll the salmon sides of each piece in the seeds. Arrange on a platter and garnish with a small piece of chive or dill as desired. Pass the rest of the cucumbers separately.

  Serves 4

• Quarter 1—Spanish Harvest

  Savor Three Vibrant Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils from the Heart of Andalucía

  

  • Prized varietals from Spain’s leading artisanal producers, these olive oils feature distinctive aromas and exquisite flavors.
  • Certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin and brimming with healthful polyphenols, this trio has been rushed to you by jet.
  • Incredibly food-friendly, they will elevate spring’s bounty of vegetables and other seasonal dishes.

  ---

  In any given quarter, Mother Nature can be the olive growers’ ally or their greatest nemesis. This year, she had knives out for the Iberian Peninsula. With apologies to Professor Henry Higgins in My Fair Lady, the rain in Spain fell mainly in vain, at the wrong time of year. Autumn saw no rain at all, resulting in olives that were more pit than pulp. And when rain did come, it was in a deluge that increased the water content of many olives to 60 percent, compared to the ideal of 50 to 55 percent. Those extra percentage points are enough to negatively skew flavors and aromas.

  I knew from the steady stream of weather woes that it was going to be a challenge to create three oils that would live up to Club members’ expectations—not to mention my own! Portugal wasn’t even a contender this season, due to a lackluster harvest. We set our sights solely on Spain.

  

  Overcoming the Odds

  Along with Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, my trusted international olive oil expert, I determined which of Spain’s finest producers were most likely to craft oils that would meet—and hopefully exceed—our standards. Of course, the proof is always in the tasting glass, but early samples gave us confidence. Only the most expertly prepared producers—those who knew how to leverage irrigation, refrigeration, and skill to rise above the challenges—hit our targets for aroma and taste. As Duccio eloquently puts it, “They were able to surf the wave of this season while the others were underwater. Many growers who kept waiting for the best moment to harvest found it never arrived.”

  Both Francisco “Paco” Vañó of Castillo de Canena and José and Andrés Gálvez of Finca Gálvez have irrigation systems that help them to adjust the level of water in the olive trees over the course of the long growing season as needed, as well as climate-control systems in their mills to keep the olives at an ideal cold-pressing temperature of 22°C (71°F). Our third chosen producer, García Torres, has groves that are perfectly positioned near the foot of the Sierra Morena mountains, at 700 meters (2300 feet) elevation, which provides natural coolness. As we tasted impressive early samples from these master growers, we knew that we could achieve perfection.

  

  In the Presence of Greatness

  My Merry Band of Tasters and I often get the opportunity to meet the legends who were instrumental in shaping the rarefied world of ultra-premium olive oil. Most of these elder statesmen are, well, men. It was especially exciting to be introduced to Anuncia Carpio Dueñas while visiting Finca Gálvez. Trained as a biologist at Instituto de la Grasa in Seville, Anuncia has been raising the standards for EVOO in Spain since 1986. A teacher, taster, and mentor, she has spent decades advocating for sensory, or organoleptic, analysis to ensure quality. She helped develop and validate tasting panels and has judged competitions from Europe to Japan, Chile and the US.

  She recounted for me that a notable shift in EVOO’s importance occurred in 1992, when, in preparation for an expo in Spain, the government led a campaign focusing on the health benefits of high-quality olive oil, drawing on research about its polyphenols. Then it was off to the ultra-premium races.

  Many improvements we now take for granted were influenced by Anuncia, including one that is particularly close to my heart and palate. She noted that the aromas and flavors of Picual were greatly enhanced when it was harvested early. Following her guidance, those producers crafting high-quality Picual commence the harvest much earlier in the season, ending around the time it used to start.

  

  Paco describes Anuncia and her colleague Brigida Jiménez Herrera as being “prophets in the desert” when he first started Castillo de Canena more than 20 years ago, helping him achieve his goal of creating premium extra virgin olive oil. Anuncia remains active, though now retired after decades at the Ministry of Agriculture in Jaén, doing tastings, trainings, and advising millers as she campaigns for olive cultivation that honors the landscape and the environment. Anuncia and I are of one mind when it comes to the highest-quality olive oils, and I’m sure you’ll agree that this trio meets that ideal. These are oils you’ll love to lavish on all your favorite foods and seasonal recipes.

  Happy drizzling!
  

  

  T. J. Robinson 
  The Olive Oil Hunter®

  ---

  This Quarter’s First Selection

  • Producer: Arbequina, Baeza, Andalucía, Spain
  • Olive Varieties: Arbequina
  • Flavor Profile: Mild

  

  I will never forget my first visit to Castillo de Canena, a Renaissance-era castle built by Moors on the ruins of a Roman settlement in the province of Jaén. The year was 2005. I was ushered into a large hall dominated by a “sofa” made of massive slabs of stone. The armrests, I noticed, had concave depressions, worn down by the arms of thousands of visitors over the centuries, who like me, awaited an audience with the castle’s occupant.

  If Francisco “Paco” Vañó—occupant of said castle in 2005 and to this day—sounds lord-like, I have misrepresented him: Though a sharp dresser, Paco’s demeanor is quite humble. We had met at the previous summer’s Fancy Food Show in New York City, where he exhibited his olive oils.

  

  Though the family’s been associated with olive oil since George Washington’s time, Paco, his sister Rosa, and their father, Luis, dedicated themselves in 2003 to producing premium extra virgin olive oil. The guide to the planet’s best olive oils, Flos Olei, recently gave Castillo de Canena a perfect score—100 points—for the sixth consecutive year. Castillo de Canena has been inducted into the publication’s exclusive Hall of Fame, one of only nine such producers worldwide.

  Paco is a highly respected olive oil authority, known especially for his generosity in sharing his expertise. His oils have delighted Club members for many years. Paco’s father consumes a spoonful every morning and will be 97 in June. Just sayin’.

  In addition to producing oils of the highest quality, the family has dedicated itself to sustainability, innovation, and—very important to me—consistency. For years, I have listened to Paco recount the challenges of the harvest, knowing his oils will still be amazing. This year, the olive trees blossomed lushly on the branches’ periphery but not on the inner limbs, creating a deceptive promise of an ample crop. Early predictions were off by about 30 percent, Paco said. Untimely rains bedeviled the harvest. But quality control supervisor Mariela Chova Martínez expertly managed the harvest teams, directing them to the fruit that was at its peak. The resulting Arbequina is wonderful.

  

  Paco is particularly proud of the fact that his team shares his passion for high-quality olive oil. And of the fact that most of the key players at Castillo de Canena are women (about 90 percent). That is unusual in the world of olive oil, which is generally dominated by men. But women have played pivotal roles in the elevation of olive oil quality. Read more about one of these influential female personalities above.

  Though he is modest about his accomplishments, Paco told me he is currently working on a coffee-table book featuring Spain’s many unique contributions to world gastronomy. He will write the chapter on extra virgin olive oil with special enthusiasm.

  Speaking of enthusiasm, I am thrilled to share his superlative extra virgin olive oil with you. Check out my personal suggestions for its use below

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

  This enticing Arbequina is full of personality. On the nose, we appreciated the aromas of golden apple, green banana, and almond, along with scents of wheatgrass, green tomato, Belgian endive, and basil. On the palate, there are notes of lettuce, endive, and fava beans; the nuttiness of almonds and hazelnuts; and the bitterness of escarole. Its beautiful finish has the spiciness of white pepper balanced by the sweetness of fresh mint.

  Drizzle it into smoothies, over yogurt, and on salads with fruit and nuts. Create vinaigrettes and the marinade for Andalucían Roast Chicken.* It adds depth to delicate pork and veal entrées, Escabèche with Hake and other mild fin fish, paellas, and Spring Vegetable Medley and roasted vegetables, and is perfect for sweets like ice cream, chiffon cakes, and Baked Churros with Two Sauces.

  *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

  ---

  This Quarter’s Second Selection

  • Producer: Finca Gálvez, Jaén, Andalucía, Spain
  • Olive Varieties: Picual
  • Flavor Profile: Medium

  

  Veteran Club members know that I love, love, love Picual—when done right, which can be tricky. (Don’t get me started on “Picual Gone Wrong.”) The ideal expression of Picual that I seek for my Club entails an early harvest of the finest fruit to create an enticingly herbaceous, robust, harmonious oil, redolent of fresh garden herbs and brimming with flavor. Or, as producer José Gálvez describes it, we strive to “transmit the soul of the fruit into the bottle.”

  Finca Gálvez, family-run olive groves comprising 18 distinct farms across more than 5,000 acres in the province of Jaén, started producing artisanal EVOO in 1999, as a pioneer on the Spanish ultra-premium scene. I first met brothers José and Andrés Gálvez in 2005, and we collaborated on our first Club selection in 2008. Their oils have been fêted around the globe—the walls of one office are covered entirely in awards—yet the brothers and their talented team are always seeking to improve and innovate.

  

  This season bestowed gorgeous fruit on the groves, and José kept me and my Merry Band of Tasters apprised of its progress throughout the growing season. He’s a boots-on-the-ground producer, inspecting the olives regularly from at least two months out so he can identify the exact moment to start harvesting. That moment—what I call “the magic window”—varies from farm to farm. For instance, one farm sits 300 meters (~990 feet) above sea level, while another farm a few miles away sits at higher elevation, in a different microclimate. The variations in topography, soil composition, and sun exposure across the farms produce a broader palette of aromas and flavors in the olives.

  José explains, “In the mill, we don’t ‘make’ anything”—the aim of milling is to preserve the liquid gold in its purest form. “We do everything within our control to manage the fruit.” Internationally esteemed agronomist Patricia Cano, in her fifth year with the team, oversees the health of the olive trees on all 18 farms. Irrigation provides another crucial form of control; in this arid region, managing hydration of the trees is impossible with rain alone. The harvest team also tightly controls the intricately choreographed logistics of rushing the just-picked olives to the mill, keeping the fruit cool during transit and upon entry to the mill.

  Last year, the Gálvez team incorporated a new cooling machine that chills the olive paste—below the standard temperature for “cold-pressed” oil—as it moves from the crusher to the malaxer, which then separates the oil from pulp and water. José notes “a big difference” with the added cooling, which preserves the roundness, balance, and harmony that make for an exceptionally food-friendly EVOO.

  Finca Gálvez sorts the EVOO from each day’s harvest not just by varietal but also by aroma and flavor profile. With this technique, batches of the same varietal, pressed on different days from different microclimates, commingle into a complex and harmonious oil.

  I can’t wait for you to taste this exquisite Picual. José speaks from my own heart when he says, simply, “I make oil for the people to enjoy.”

  

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

  This Picual leads with a symphony of green grassy notes, such as Tuscan kale, arugula, and tomato leaf, followed by the sweet aromas of fennel and pear, and a cornucopia of chopped culinary herbs, notably rosemary, oregano, and thyme, with a whiff of crushed pepper. We tasted Tuscan kale, walnuts, baby spinach, fava beans, and herbs along with the bitterness of radicchio and the spiciness of arugula and green peppercorns.

  It’s wonderful on egg dishes like Huevos a la Flamenca*; tomato-based dishes like Pan con Tomate and gazpacho; salads of radicchio, endive, and other greens; crusty breads, focaccia, and pizza; and cheeses. It makes a fabulous marinade for Beef Pinchitos and other grilled meats and enhances Spanish Rice with Garlic Shrimp, other seafood dishes, and beans and lentils. Drizzle it on cheesecake, chocolate mousse, and flan.

  *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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  This Quarter’s Third Selection

  • Producer: García Torres, Carcabuey, Andalucía, Spain
  • Olive Varieties: Hojiblanca, Picudo
  • Flavor Profile: Bold

  

  Each time I visit the town of Carcabuey, I am struck by its beauty—whitewashed houses, winding streets, and lush bougainvillea that seems to grow everywhere. It’s only fitting that a place this exquisite would be where some of the finest olive oils in the world are produced.

  I’m thrilled that for the third year in a row we’ve selected an olive oil from the team at Almazaras de la Subbética, the award-winning cooperative led by Luis Torres, head oenologist, and Carlos García, chief of operations and new dad to baby Alonso. Inspired to be one of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club’s selections, they push the flavor envelope for us. “You and the Club are top of mind at all our planning meetings so we can be sure to create the best oil for you,” Luis says proudly.

  Luis and Carlos credit this year’s winning blend to two amazing milling talents: mill master Francisco Ramón García Ramírez and Miguel Ángel Ortiz López, whom he has been mentoring for the past six years. Francisco Ramón has announced his retirement after an illustrious career: he was just 17 when he first started working at a small mill in town and 30 when he became Almazaras de la Subbética’s mill manager, 35 years ago. Back then, the goal was simply pressing oil for the farmers in the co-op. When the decision was made, in the late ’90s, to build a new facility focused on ultra-premium EVOO, Francisco Ramón worked closely with the engineers to design it.

  

  In 1999, Almazaras de la Subbética won its first gold medal, in Spain’s prestigious D.O.P. Priego de Córdoba competition. In all, Francisco Ramón’s tenure has seen a total of 2,152 prizes across Spanish and international competitions, including an ongoing nine-year streak in the EVOO World Ranking, a nonprofit created to spread the word about olive oils that have been recognized at international competitions. In 2023, Francisco Ramón won Best Mill Master from the Spanish Association of Olive Municipalities. “He has been key to the cooperative’s growth—not only for producing excellent oils but also for training the new generations who join the company,” praises Luis. As Francisco Ramón passes the baton, we celebrate his achievements, just as we are excited by the possibilities that lie ahead with Miguel.

  “This season, we gave Miguel more opportunities to make key decisions, and he showed us that he’s the right person to run the mill. He loves the work and loves tasting olive oil—he’s learning a lot with every day’s tasting,” Luis says. “He also works hand in hand with Carlos—we have a formidable team.”

  All this star power is concentrated in the extraordinary blend you have just received: 74 percent Hojiblanco and 26 percent Picudo. While the inclusion of Picudo is not new for a Club selection, in previous blends it was just a splash, enough to create some delicious drama. “Hojiblanca is always a winning variety—it never fails, but it is rare to get a Picudo this superb,” observes Luis. It takes a combination of the right temperature, rain at the right time and, of course, skill in the mill. The two varietals have a symbiotic relationship in the field—Picudo is a pollinator of Hojiblanca blossoms—and in the bottle. It’s a remarkable synthesis that I know you’ll enjoy as much as I do.

  

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

  In this beguiling duo, the spiciness of Hojiblanco is further elevated by the dark-green intensity of Picudo. Inhale the aromas of green grass, green tomato, artichoke, celery, and microgreens; the fruitiness of green apple, kiwi, rhubarb, and green almond; and hints of crushed black peppercorns. Next, taste an explosion of green tomato, artichoke, green almond, and parsley; and the bitterness and spiciness of arugula, celery leaves, and black pepper.

  Lavish this vibrant oil on an Iberian Charcuterie Board* with whole grain breads and Green Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette and other composed salads. It enhances Spanish Pork Burgers and other pork, lamb, and game dishes, as well as grilled tuna, bluefish, sardines, calamari, and octopus. Enjoy it in (and on) frittatas, marinated vegetables, and hummus, and over yogurt and ice cream parfaits.

  *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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  Olive Oil and Health

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  Kudos from Club Members

  I thought EVOO was EVOO
  I was skeptical at first. Sam’s Club plastic bottle olive oil buyer (guilty) and I thought EVOO was EVOO. I don’t mind saying this, but… holy sh** I was wrong!! Your olive oil is amazing!! Thank you for showing me the error in my ways. We look forward to trying other varieties. Thank you!!

  Meg P.Grey, ME

  Making memories with EVOO
  It was a Christmas gift I got from my son that I continue to receive every year. I cook with my 10-year-old grandson often. He always smells & tastes the olive oil and tells me “This is the best, Nana.” We read the booklet together and always choose a recipe from it to make. Making memories together!

  Patty C.Algoma, WI

  Cannot wait til the next delivery.
  My first 3 bottles are almost gone! Best oil I have ever tasted! I shared it with my friends. Cannot wait til the next delivery.

  Roger C.Elk Grove Village, IL

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  Vibrant pimentón, Spain’s famous smoked paprika, is a culinary mainstay. It’s the spice that gives cured Spanish chorizo its vibrant color, and you’ll see it in a number of the following recipes, along with the country’s distinctive sherry vinegar (we’re partial to vinegars made with the famed Pedro Ximénez grape, for its hint of sweetness). These are richly flavored dishes, many drawing on spring’s vegetable bounty, and perfect for enjoying this quarter’s olive oils.

  Recipes
• Pan con Tomate

  This Catalan twist on bruschetta is simple and delicious. Choose the ripest tomatoes you can find. If available, Sungold cherry tomatoes make for a tasty and eye-catching tapa.

  Ingredients

  • 8 ounces fresh tomatoes
  • 3 garlic cloves, chopped
  • 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar, preferably Pedro Ximénez, or more to taste
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
  • 1/4 teaspoon each coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 3 slices crusty bread, toasted and cut in halves or thirds
  • 1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • Optional: Manchego cheese shavings, Maldon sea salt flakes

  Directions

  Step 1

  Coarsely chop the tomatoes by hand or using the pulse function of the food processor. Transfer to a medium bowl and add the garlic, vinegar, olive oil, thyme, salt, and pepper. Stir well and let sit for 30 to 60 minutes for the tomatoes to absorb all the flavors.

  Step 2

  To serve, plate the toasts and top each piece with some of the marinated tomatoes. Garnish with the parsley and, if using, Manchego and a few flakes of Maldon salt.

  Serves 4

• Beef Pinchitos

  Pinchitos, skewers of highly spiced meat, are the highlight at barbecues across many areas of southern Spain. Though this recipe features beef, it’s equally good with chicken, pork, and lamb. To make pinchitos without turning on the grill, you can sear the meat in a Dutch oven and then place it on skewers to serve as a finger food, or plate right out of the pot. This recipe can be doubled or tripled for a large group.

  Ingredients

  • 2 pounds beef tenderloin, rib eye, or other choice cut
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for cooking
  • 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon pimentón
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground coriander
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
  • 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons coarse sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon dried thyme
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  Directions

  Step 1

  Cut the beef into 1 1/2–inch cubes; you should have about 48. In a glass bowl large enough to hold the meat, add 4 tablespoons olive oil and all the herbs and spices; whisk to combine. Add the beef cubes and toss well to coat. Marinate in the fridge from 1 hour to overnight (the longer the marination, the more intense the flavor will be).

  Step 2

  To grill, thread 4 cubes on each of 12 metal or wooden skewers (if using wooden ones, soak them in water for 30 minutes to avoid burning). Brush the meat lightly with olive oil. Grill over high heat for 4 to 8 minutes, rotating the skewers every minute or two until seared.

  Step 3

  To sear on the stovetop, brush a very small amount of olive oil inside a Dutch oven or large cast-iron skillet, then heat over medium-high heat. When hot, add 3 tablespoons olive oil and the beef cubes (as many as will fit without crowding—make in batches as needed). Sear for a minute on each side until nicely browned, using tongs to turn them. If serving as a finger food, thread four cubes on each of 12 skewers.

  Serves 6

• Escabèche with Hake

  Escabèche is a zesty vegetable dish done in two steps: sautéing the vegetables in olive oil then marinating them in sherry vinegar. A popular way to serve it is with lightly fried anchovies. This recipe is for lovers of mild, white flaky fish. Hake is a member of the cod family found in the waters around Spain, but you can choose any of your favorites, such as sole, flounder, sea bass, or striped bass. The thinner the fillet, the shorter the sauté time will be. For less heat, skip the jalapeño.

  Ingredients

  • 1/3 cup flour, for dredging
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
  • 1 pound hake fillet, skinned, cut into 1” strips
  • 3 garlic cloves, smashed
  • 1 red onion, sliced crosswise, then separated into rings
  • 2 carrots, peeled and cut into 3-inch matchsticks
  • 2 red or yellow bell peppers, seeded and cut into thin strips
  • 1 cup sherry vinegar, preferably Pedro Ximénez 1 jalapeño, sliced in thin rings
  • 2 bay leaves
  • Optional: 1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro

  Directions

  Step 1

  In a pie plate, whisk together the flour, salt, and pepper. Place next to your stovetop. Heat a large skillet or frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add 3 tablespoons olive oil. Working one piece at a time, coat both sides of the fish in the flour mixture, shake off any excess, and carefully place in the hot pan. Flip the pieces after 2 minutes and brown on the other side. Transfer the fish to large baking dish, preferably one with a lid.

  Step 2

  Add another 2 tablespoons olive oil to the pan along with the garlic; let the garlic cook for 2 minutes to infuse the oil, then add all the vegetables. Sauté until they begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, bay leaves, and sliced jalapeño and simmer for 5 minutes. Pour the entire contents of the pan over the fish and drizzle with the remaining tablespoon olive oil. Cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate from 3 to 12 hours. Remove the bay leaves and garnish with the cilantro, if desired, before serving at room temperature.

  Serves 4

• Spring Vegetable Medley

  Hard-cooked eggs figure prominently in many Spanish dishes. With this sauté of spring vegetables, they elevate a side dish to meal status.

  Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 6 thin scallions, trimmed
  • 6 ounces asparagus spears, trimmed and cut in thirds
  • 6 ounces shelled green peas
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • Squeeze of lemon
  • 4 cups microgreens
  • 4 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and halved

  Directions

  Step 1

  Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. When very hot, add the olive oil and scallions and cook for 2 minutes, rotating them so that all sides get a slight char.

  Step 2

  Add the asparagus and toss every 30 seconds for about 2 minutes. Add the peas and turn down the heat to low. Sprinkle with the salt and pepper and cook until tender, another 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and let cool slightly. Squeeze the lemon over the vegetables.

  Step 3

  Divide the microgreens among 4 plates or bowls. Top with equal amounts of vegetables and garnish each with two hard-cooked egg halves. Drizzle with olive oil.

  Serves 4

For Your Best Health

The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

According to a new study from researchers at the Columbia University Mailman School of Public Health and The Robert Butler Columbia Aging Center, a very specific brain-boosting diet has been linked to reduced dementia risk and a slower pace of aging. The study, “Diet, Pace of Biological Aging, and Risk of Dementia in the Framingham Heart Study,” published in the Annals of Neurology, also explains how the diet helps slow down the processes of biological aging.

“Much attention to nutrition in dementia research focuses on the way specific nutrients affect the brain,” said Daniel Belsky, PhD, associate professor of epidemiology and a senior author of the study. “We tested the hypothesis that healthy diet protects against dementia by slowing down the body’s overall pace of biological aging.”

The researchers used data from the second generation of the Framingham Heart Study, the Offspring Cohort. Participants were 60 years of age or older and free of dementia and had available dietary, epigenetic, and follow-up data. Follow-up was done at nine examinations, approximately every 4 to 7 years, which included a physical exam, lifestyle-related questionnaires, blood sampling, and, starting in 1991, neurocognitive testing. Of 1,644 participants included in the analyses, 140 developed dementia. 

To measure the pace of aging, the researchers used an epigenetic clock called DunedinPACE developed by Dr. Belsky and colleagues at Duke University and the University of Otago in Dunedin, New Zealand. The clock measures how fast a person’s body is deteriorating as they grow older, “like a speedometer for the biological processes of aging,” explained Dr. Belsky.

“We have some strong evidence that a healthy diet can protect against dementia,” said Yian Gu, PhD, associate professor of neurological sciences at Columbia University Irving Medical Center and the other senior author of the study, “but the mechanism of this protection is not well understood.” Past research linked both diet and dementia risk to an accelerated pace of biological aging. “Testing the hypothesis that multi-system biological aging is a mechanism of underlying diet-dementia associations was the logical next step,” explained Dr. Belsky.

The research determined that higher adherence to the MIND diet slowed the pace of aging as measured by DunedinPACE and reduced risks for dementia and mortality. Furthermore, slower DunedinPACE accounted for 27% of the diet-dementia association and 57% of the diet-mortality association.

“Our findings suggest that slower pace of aging mediates part of the relationship of healthy diet with reduced dementia risk, and therefore, monitoring pace of aging may inform dementia prevention,” said first author Aline Thomas, PhD, of the Columbia Department of Neurology and Taub Institute for Research on Alzheimer’s Disease and the Aging Brain. “However, a portion of the diet-dementia association remains unexplained, therefore we believe that continued investigation of brain-specific mechanisms in well-designed mediation studies is warranted.”

“We suggest that additional observational studies be conducted to investigate direct associations of nutrients with brain aging, and if our observations are also confirmed in more diverse populations, monitoring biological aging may indeed inform dementia prevention,” noted Dr. Belsky.

Exactly What Is the MIND Diet?

MIND is a hybrid of the Mediterranean and DASH diets, tailored to reflect key findings from nutrition and dementia research. It details serving sizes of specific foods to focus on and which to limit, primarily those high in saturated fat, which is known to negatively affect brain health. 

Foods and portions to eat every day: 1/2 to 1 cup green leafy vegetables, 1/2 cup other vegetables, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and three 1-ounce servings of whole grains. 

Foods and portions to eat over the course of each week: 5 ounces nuts, 2-1/2 cups berries, 1-1/2 cups legumes, two 3-to-5-ounce servings of skinless poultry, and 3-to-5 ounces fish.

Foods to limit to these weekly totals: three or fewer 3-to-5-ounce servings of red and processed meats, 1 ounce whole-fat cheese, 1 fried or fast food, and 4 sweet servings. If desired, no more than 1 teaspoon of butter or stick of margarine a day.