Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club

Olive Oil Hunter News #170

Horiatiki Salad

Horiatiki Salad Recipe and The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

I’m a huge fan of both Greek and Middle Eastern salads, the ingredients of which are not only delicious but also mainstays of the MIND (Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay) diet, a way of eating designed for brain health. It’s an offshoot of the super-healthy Mediterranean diet and the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diet. Why the distinction? Because the latest research on the MIND diet shows it can slow aging as well as reduce dementia risk. Add this to the list of the benefits of olive oil—it’s one of the super foods that MIND suggests including every day.

Horiatiki: The Sequel!

  • Taiwanese chicken stir fry Taiwanese Chicken

    Looking for a midweek dinner recipe that’s high in flavor and short on time? This filling stir-fry is the answer. If leeks aren’t available, substitute a large yellow onion. Serve as is or over rice.

    Ingredients

    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, more as needed 
    • 2 tablespoons untoasted sesame oil
    • 4 boneless, skinless chicken thighs, sliced into thin strips
    • 1-inch piece ginger, peeled and sliced into thin coins 
    • 12 garlic cloves, peeled
    • 4 scallions, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
    • 2 large leeks, trimmed, triple-rinsed, and sliced into coins
    • 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into slivers
    • 8 ounces asparagus, trimmed and cut on the diagonal into 1-inch pieces
    • 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
    • 1/2 cup Chinese rice wine
    • 2 tablespoons soy sauce

    Directions

    Step 1

    Heat a large wok or frying pan over high heat. When hot, add the olive and sesame oils and the chicken. Use tongs to turn the chicken pieces until they’ve browned on all sides and are just about cooked through. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the chicken to a large bowl.

    Yields 4 servings

  • T. J. Robinson and three generations of Madeiras family Quarter 1—Spanish and Portuguese Harvest

    The Best of the Iberian Peninsula…Three Remarkable Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils With Intense Flavors Unique to Mountain Groves

    T.J. Robinson The Olive Oil Hunter
    • Brimming with vibrant aromas and tantalizing tastes from growing at altitude, these oils were created exclusively for the Club—you won’t find them anywhere else.
    • All three of these fresh-pressed oils were certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin and rushed to you at the height of flavor and polyphenol content.
    • Enjoy them in my new collection of curated Spanish and Portuguese recipes, developed to showcase their intensity and please your palate.

    As longstanding members of the Club know well, I carry the Olive Oil Hunter moniker for good reason. Every quarter is a true hunt, punctu-ated with visits to the world’s top mills, meetings with the award-winning producers in our exclu-sive network, and—arguably my favorite part—tasting the best of the best oils to find the ones you will enjoy as much as I do.

    Often there’s a lot of drama in my quarterly quest, with a different curveball thrown by Mother Nature nearly every time (she operates with equal zeal in the Northern and Southern hemispheres). But this year’s trip to the Iberian Peninsula presented just one dilemma: which oils to choose from a bevy of magnificent offerings. That’s because growing and harvesting conditions bent in favor of the growers this time.

    I was greeted by so many happy faces across Spain and Portugal because all these producers’ efforts yielded impressive results. And that bodes well for the Club’s future selections: When producers have both great quality and quantity, they’re positioned to invest in their farms, such as with updated equipment, which will further enhance production quality…and allow us to keep pushing the envelope when it comes to creating oils that will be even more outstanding in seasons to come.

    T. J. Robinson riding in a Land Rover in Carcabuey, Spain
    Modern harvesting equipment can’t operate in the rugged landscape around Carcabuey in Spain’s Andalucía. So Luis Torres and I excitedly head out to one of the groves with rakes on the roof that assist harvesting by hand. All the different microclimates in the Subbética mountains contribute to the intense flavors and aromas of olive oils milled in this region.

    High-Altitude Oils with Attitude

    The fact that this collection includes a Portuguese olive oil for the first time since 2022 shows just how magical this season was. That country’s rocky terrain and tricky weather patterns mean it’s not possible to predict oil quality far in advance, but when all the stars align, Portuguese varietals—indigenous olives grown nowhere else on the planet—are exceptional, all the more so when created by my longtime friend Filipe de Albuquerque Madeira, a renowned producer of wine and vinegar as well as olive oil.

    His family’s groves are in a rugged province of northern Portugal named Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro. It’s quite different from the rolling hills of Andalucía, in southern Spain, which includes Granada, home of the producer of this quarter’s medium selection (also where we did our grand tasting), and Carcabuey, location of the cooperative where we created our bold. But a surprising characteristic links these three spectacular oils: The olives from each producer happen to have been grown in groves at high elevations, from 600 to 850 meters (topping off just above a half-mile high).

    Because of greater temperature fluctuations between day and night in the mountains than at sea level, these olives yielded oils with the richest flavors and aromas. Also, a hot dry summer (a scary scenario because the olives stop growing) was followed by autumn rains (a sigh of relief, because rain reboots their growth cycle), contributing to oils that are more vegetal, less fruity. Yet each still has its own full-bodied personality that will blow you away.

    T. J. Robinson in olive grove, Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro, region of northern Portugal
    One of my greatest pleasures: walking through olive groves in the mountainous Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro region of northern Portugal, the only place on earth where certain exquisite olive varietals grow—you’ll be wowed by the blend of Negrinha, Madural, Verdeal, and Cobrançosa in this quarter’s mild olive oil.

    More Rejoicing for All

    Adding to the happiness my Merry Band of Tasters and I felt at being able to secure oils with this level of quality for Club members was the feeling of conviviality that permeates Spain and Portugal. In particular, the tapas culture brings people together, creating enhanced social connections (so important for health reasons) while sharing plates of food and sipping wonderful local beers and sherries. The origin story of tapas is itself fascinating. According to legend, King Alfonso X of Castile, who reigned during the thirteenth century, ate small portions of food with wine as he recovered from an illness. Putting great stock in this “prescription,” he decreed that alcohol could not be served without food. Drink glasses were topped with a small plate of food that acted as a lid, or tapa. The tradition has not only endured but become a way of life across the peninsula—in Portugal, the little dishes are called petiscos.

    T. J. Robinson and Juan “Juande” de Dios
    I’m so impressed by the eco-friendly architecture of Juan “Juande” de Dios’s modern mill and olive-inspired design touches throughout the space, yet I also love stepping back in time and appreciating the traditions of the lively Taberna Casa Enrique, one of the oldest tapas bars in Granada (it dates back to 1870). With a wall of sherry barrels as the backdrop, Juande and I celebrated our phenomenal medium oil crafted for you, dear Club member, as we indulged in area specialties like lomo, a melt-in-your-mouth cured Iberico pork loin.

    I love to both work and play with our produc-ers, who are friends as well as collaborators. And we really had a lot of oils to play with this quar-ter—the work was narrowing down the choices to make the incredible blends you now hold in your hands. I invite you to set up a tasting of your own, to cook with them, and to drizzle them liberally. With many tapas dishes included in this report’s recipe section, explore the Iberian culture for yourself and gather those you love to join you.

    Happy drizzling!

    T. J. Robinson 
    The Olive Oil Hunter®


    This Quarter’s First Selection

    • Producer: Maria de Lourdes, Portugal
    • Olive Varieties: Negrinha, Madural, Verdeal, Cobrançosa
    • Flavor Profile: Mild

    I was delighted that this season’s quest found me and my Merry Band of Tasters journey-ing to the isolated northeast corner of Portugal, to the province of Trás-os-Montes, which means “beyond the mountains.” Here, in the remote Alto Douro region, the Madeira family is devoted to crafting exquisite, award-winning olive oils, along with superlative wines and vinegars. My connection to the family goes back to 2011, when I first visited these otherworldly groves—reminiscent of Middle Earth—and the Madeiras immediately welcomed me into their fold.

    Contrasting with the wild and dramatic land-scapes that surround them—Trás-os-Montes is designated as a UNESCO biosphere—the Madeiras reside in a stately home with granite walls, a formal dining room, and more intricate silver service than I learned about in culinary school. But their jovial, down-to-earth kindness is always in the air.

    Twenty-five years ago, patriarch Celso, a successful engineer on the cusp of retirement, astounded his adult children by announcing that, as his next move, he intended to produce premium olive oil on the family’s property in the Alto Douro region. No one in the family had so much as pressed (or picked) an olive. Perhaps most surprised was eldest son Filipe, who put his university education in Italy on hold and dutifully returned home to immerse himself in the study and practice of olive oil production.

    T. J. Robinson and three generations of Madeiras family
    Three generations of Madeiras bring Old World elegance into the twenty-first century. Filipe’s little son, Leonardo, 20 months, is the apple of his grandfather’s eye. Celso has always had energy to spare, but playing with Leonardo among the olive trees has put an extra spring in his step. It may also be the polyphenols—as Filipe quipped, “He shows if you drink our olive oil, you too could get speeding tickets in your nineties!”

    Many of the trees were more than 1,000 years old—mossy and untended for decades, even centuries. Filipe, a lightning-quick study and an ingenious, careful grove manager, assembled an expert team, and together they transformed the overgrown groves into a world-class olive farm. Their oils took Iberia by surprise, winning prestigious regional awards with the very first harvest.

    The ancient groves are home to Portuguese olive cultivars grown nowhere else on earth. I am smitten with the extraordinary flavors and aromas of these oils; they have distinctive grassy, vegetal, and herbaceous qualities all their own, the way that the Portuguese language looks a lot like Spanish on the page but sounds fundamentally different, softer, with a specific lilt.

    Because the gnarled trees cling to steep hillsides at odd angles and dig their roots deep into the flaky layers of schist below, irrigation has never been an option. This leaves the Madeiras at the mercy of Mother Nature, who favors an alternating pattern of glorious harvests and nail-biting, drought-riddled years. Five years ago, to hedge against the harshest conditions, Celso purchased new acreage, which features limited irrigation—its young trees have just begun to bear fruit.

    At ninety-two years young, Celso is eager to acquire more land and expand his legacy. I feel that Celso’s intense love of life infuses this beguiling oil—it is a real character, with a lively spiciness (highlighted by a splash of Cobrançosa) enhancing its well-balanced freshness.

    Can you see me? I’m the tiny human tree in the center, surrounded by these old-timers in the Madeira groves in the mountainous Trás-os-Montes e Alto Douro province, in northeast Portugal. Some of these treasures are more than a thousand years old. Filipe Madeira and his team provide them with meticulous care, and they reciprocate with liquid gold.

    Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

    Inhale deeply to appreciate the complexity of this Portuguese heirloom varietal blend—green grass, fresh Mediterranean herbs, and Belgian endive as well as mint, green apple, banana, almond, and sweet notes of cinnamon and vanilla. Taste the essence of tomato and edamame, a hint of pear, the bitterness of radicchio and endive, and the spiciness of white pepper with a lingering herbal finish highlighted by fresh oregano.

    This versatile full-bodied oil pairs beautifully with mild cheeses; salmorejo* and other puréed vegetable soups; salads with rice and other grains; spring lettuce mixes with nuts or fruit; light vinaigrettes; bacalhau à lagareiro; arroz de mariscos; mild fin fish; chicken, pork, and lamb dishes; risottos; beans; peas, asparagus, green beans, mushrooms, and other farmers’ market finds; quick breads; and chocolate mousse.

    *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.


    This Quarter’s Second Selection

    • Producer: García-Molina, Spain
    • Olive Varieties: Picual
    • Flavor Profile: Medium

    Near Granada, as we climb hills through the groves, I ask producer Juan de Dios about the ideal growing altitude for Picual—Spain’s most widely planted varietal, and, if done right, one of my favorites—to optimize the flavors and aromas in the oil. “Seven hundred fifty meters is best for these trees,” he replies, with characteristic preci-sion—that is, nearly half a mile above sea level.

    The exactitude and thoughtful consideration are typical of “Juande,” as he is called. Juande and his equally insightful sister, Paula, both followed in their father’s footsteps by studying pharmacology before becoming world-class olive oil producers.

    At left, producer Juande de Dios and I raise our olive oil tasting glasses in a toast to early-harvest Picual, a stunning crowd-pleaser and the lushly aromatic superstar of our brilliant collaboration. At right, we’ve carried a bottle of our harvest-fresh EVOO straight to O-Med’s kitchen, where Juande shows me how to make mouth-watering migas, drizzled generously with our prized creation. I’m excited to share his recipe with you below.

    “He had a special energy—he was a friend of everyone,” Juande says warmly of his father, also named Juan, who passed in 2014. His five grandchildren remember him as “Abuelo Oliva,” or Grandpa Olive. In his honor, we’ve created a special label with the ancestral family name, García-Molina.

    A pharmacist by profession but an olive farmer at heart, in 2004 Juan Sr. purchased an olive farm and mill west of Granada, pressing fruit for family and friends and selling small amounts to the local bulk vendors.

    Juande and Paula felt strongly that they should set their sights higher, so, after about a year, they approached their father with an ambitious proposal: to create ultra-premium, artisanal EVOO for a select group of international chefs and gourmets. He gave them his unconditional support.

    T.J. Robinson and José Fernández Miranda in olive grove
    Meet agronomist José Fernández Miranda, the newest member of the O-Med team. With loving care, José oversees the health and development of the trees and works to create the best possible fruit. His infectious enthusiasm helped buoy the harvest team during the intensely demanding two weeks of the “magic window,” when Picual is at peak flavor and polyphenol content for the early-harvest oils I love.

    The siblings named their project O-Med (as in Mediterranean), and Juande chuckles as he reflects on their early days: “It was really hard. We barely made a sale.” He attributes their breakthrough to loyalty (“The gourmet food world is not so big”) and persistence. In 2016, the trusted German publication Stiftung Warentest—akin to Consumer Reports for fancy food—gave O-Med’s EVOO the highest ranking among 26 international olive oils. With that boost, the farm’s reputation soared.

    Major awards include gold at the New York International Olive Oil Competition and multiple “Top 20” lauds in Flos Olei (Italy’s premier guide to the world’s olive oils). Paula does most of the traveling to trade shows, while Juande manages production at their stunning, glass-enclosed, sustainability-focused mill.

    I’ll confide proudly that I was ahead of the curve—my Merry Band and I first visited O-Med in 2015, but it took several years before we collaborated on a Club exclusive selection. What a thrill, then, to work together again this year. “Being chosen for this Club is like an award,” Juande emphasizes.

    Juande and his talented team—you’ll learn about agronomist José Fernández Miranda in the photo on the left—use tightly controlled “drip irrigation” to hydrate the trees while keeping the humidity of the fruit below 55 percent, to concen-trate its flavors and polyphenols. “There’s not a lot of room for error,” Juande notes, adding, “Mother Nature is the one who decides, in the end.”

    Juande and I can’t wait for you to taste this fantastic Picual. “They’re going to love this oil,” he predicts, and I concur. Taste it and let us know!

    Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

    This Picual is intensely green and vibrant on the nose with aromas of tomato leaf, baby spinach, arugula, and kale, notes of kiwi and lime zest, and hints of basil, rosemary, thyme, and nasturtium. It is elegant and intense on the palate—we tasted celery leaf, parsley, wheatgrass, rosemary, and thyme, along with the bitterness and spiciness of arugula and black peppercorns.

    It’s perfect for piquillo pepper and goat cheese omelet* and other egg dishes; Juande’s migas; aged cheeses like Manchego and Cabrales; crudités; tomato salads and other tomato-based dishes; avocado crema and shrimp; grilled steak, tuna, octopus, and salmon; vegetable fideuà and other pasta dishes; paella; potatoes; artichokes, broccoli rabe, and fennel; green smoothies; Greek yogurt; Basque cheesecake; and chocolate cake.

    *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.


    This Quarter’s Third Selection

    • Producer: García Torres, Spain
    • Olive Varieties: Hojiblanca
    • Flavor Profile: Bold

    The romanticism of crafting olive oil with time-honored traditions is alive and well in Carcabuey, home of Almazaras de la Subbética, the award-winning coopera-tive that creates some of the finest olive oils in all of Spain, if not the world. This medieval village of fewer than 3,000 in the heart of Andalucía has a history dating back to thousands of years BC. It’s surrounded by a rugged landscape of moun-tains and glorious olive groves growing at various elevations—the olives must be hand-harvested using pneumatic rakes because the terrain doesn’t offer access to more modern machinery.

    I’m thrilled that for a second year in a row we are working with this talented team, led by manager Luis Torres, head oenologist and chief of operations Carlos García, who grew up in Carcabuey, and Sonja Ramírez, who, like Luis and Carlos, is a top panel taster.

    T. J. Robinson and Carlos Garcia having a coffee in Spain
    Carlos and I stopped in at Bar Pedro for some excellent coffee (reportedly there was once a casino upstairs!) and talked about our shared passion for creating the best olive oils on the planet. From us to you—happy drizzling!

    Luis and Sonja have known each other for more than 20 years—they met in olive oil taster
    training. “We went in separate directions afterwards, but destiny brought us back together,” Luis said. I was astounded by their daily morning ritual, a blind tasting of over 30 selections prepped in official blue glasses and ranking each one according to an exhaustive list of attributes. They enter all their impressions in a custom computer program created by Luis so that they will have a detailed record of each evaluation.

    Running the co-op is quite complex because they mill not only the olives of farmers whose livelihood depends on growing exceptional fruit and harvesting them daily, but also families with very small groves who might collect their olives only on weekends, making it hard for them to catch the magic window—that perfect moment for harvesting, when the olives are still green yet have the right amount of oil in their flesh for a sensational oil in the bottle.

    This is a banner year for Carlos, who was named Best Master Miller by EVOOLEUM, the international competition that annually chooses the 100 best EVOOs in the world—Subbética’s Hojiblanco was recognized in multiple categories, too! Right: I thought my grand tasting involved an impressive number of olive oils until I was part of the daily morning tasting ritual that Luis and Sonja go through!

    Within the expansive mill are actually seven small mill stations, all under Carlos’s purview. As olives come in, they’re assigned to one of the seven, based on what the team anticipates the oil’s quality will be. “We produce in small tanks, which makes it easier to identify the quality of each batch,” Carlos explained. Olives destined for the Club will go to only the #1 or #2 mill because they are the smallest and dedicated to what will be the highest quality oils, with no chance that any lower quality fruit can negatively affect the liquid gold.

    This year’s García Torres Hojiblanco, named after Carlos and Luis, is a tantalizing taste sensation. To create its beautiful harmony and just the right fruitiness, bitterness, and spiciness, we chose to blend three Hojiblancos milled a few days apart from slightly different areas, all cultivated at about 600 meters, for this season’s high-altitude depth of taste. Luis and I grabbed lunch at one of our favorite local restaurants, La Zamora, so that we could drizzle our Hojiblanco lavishly on an array of foods. The meal inspired the report’s recipes for avocado crema and shrimp and salmorejo; find them on pages 12 and 14, respectively. Enjoy!

    T. J. Robinson and Carlos Garcia walking in Spain
    I was thrilled when Subbética’s master miller, Carlos García, was able to slip away from work to show me his—and the mill’s—hometown of Carcabuey. The brilliant white buildings stand in stark contrast to the verdant mountains that surround this ancient village. Olives grown at these elevations have an amazing aroma that you’ll love as much as I do.

    Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

    What a beautiful nose on this Hojiblanco—fresh-cut grass, green tomato, and a veritable vegetable garden with pronounced notes of celery, carrot tops, Tuscan kale, and basil, along with the sweetness of fennel seed and Asian pear. It’s exceptionally bold on the palate, with notes of Belgian endive, baby spinach, and raw artichoke. Asian pear comes through, along with the bitterness of walnut skins and citrus zest, followed by a persistent spicy finish of celery leaves, watercress, and white peppercorns.

    This oil was made for avocado toast; salads of bitter and spicy greens, like arugula with tomatoes; beef carpaccio, pork tenderloin Pedro Ximénez*; game; oily fish such as tuna, mackerel, bluefish, sardines, and anchovies; sherried carrots; broccoli, cauliflower, and eggplant; hummus, lentils, and other pulses; rustic whole grain breads; yogurt, ice cream, and pan con chocolate supremo.

    *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.


    Olive Oil and Health


    Kudos from Club Members

    On our “Tasters’ Inner Circle”
    This is wonderful! I just completed the introductory videos and the first tasting with the Italian oils. I actually have a background and training in sensory analysis, but, until your club came along, it was only used in service of the conventional food industry. I always thought it would be amazing to take these skills into analysis of more interesting and sophisticated products, which is exactly what these beautiful oils are! I have always enjoyed my membership, but [Tasters Inner Circle] takes it to a whole new level. It is helping me to appreciate the nuances of the oils and discover new vocabulary, new things to search for in experiencing them. What a fantastic idea! Thank you!
    Elizabeth M.Cincinnati, OH

    The Iberian Peninsula is known for many richly flavored dishes brimming with unique ingredients. We’ve selected a few special ones to highlight in this report’s recipes: pimentón, the quintessential Spanish smoked paprika, made from peppers grown in La Vera (in the province of Cáceres, southwest of Madrid) and an essential ingredient in chorizo; piquillo peppers, very sweet and mild chile peppers named for their bird-beak shape; and Pedro Ximénez sherry and sherry vinegar, both made from the sweet white grapes of the same name (often abbreviated as PX on labels), which grow only in a small area in the province of Cádiz, in southwestern Andalucía. Enjoy!

    Recipes

  • Pan con Chocolate Supremo Pan con Chocolate Supremo

    Bread with chocolate is a sweet and simple dish often offered as a dessert tapa. Traditional recipes call for melting squares of chocolate atop slices of toast in an oven still hot from toasting the bread. My version melts the chocolate with olive oil separately for a silkier texture. I’ve also ramped up the flavors by adding oranges—chocolate, orange, and olive oil make a terrific trio. I love the elegance of orange supremes, but you can also opt for thin horizontal slices of a peeled orange with as much pith removed as possible.

    Ingredients

    • 2 ounces bittersweet (60% cacao) chocolate, roughly chopped
    • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    • Four 1/2-inch slices of crusty bread, toasted
    • 1 orange, peeled and cut into supremes (see Note) or thin slices
    • Coarse sea salt or Maldon sea salt flakes

    Directions

    Step 1

    Melt the chocolate and the tablespoon of olive oil in the microwave in 30-second increments at power 4 until just about melted. Stir until smooth. Spread equal amounts on the toasts and top with orange slices, a drizzle of olive oil, and a sprinkling of salt.

    Note: To make orange supremes, peel the orange and cut off about 1/4 inch from the top and bottom—this makes it easier to see the membranes separating each orange section. Then use a paring knife to cut both sides of each section away from the membranes; place the supremes in a bowl until ready to use.

    Serves 4

  • Basque Cheesecake Basque Cheesecake

    Basque cheesecake is the ultimate in creaminess. Unlike traditional cheesecake that has a crust and is baked at a low temperature, this style is crustless (perfect if you’re gluten-free) and cooks hot and somewhat faster. The parchment paper used to line the springform pan creates the cheesecake’s signature look when peeled away.

    Ingredients

    • 2 pounds best-quality cream cheese
    • 6 large eggs
    • 2 cups heavy cream
    • 1 1/3 cups sugar
    • 1 tablespoon vanilla
    • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
    • 1/3 cup cornstarch
    • 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

    Directions

    Step 1

    Bring the cream cheese, eggs, and heavy cream to room temperature—take the cheese out of the fridge at least two hours before starting; the eggs and cream, about an hour.

    Step 2

    Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a 9×3 springform pan with a large piece of parchment, pleating it as needed to flatten it against the sides—don’t worry about making the pleats uniform.

    Step 3

    In a very large bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer with the flat beater, beat the cream cheese, sugar, vanilla, and salt at medium-high speed until smooth and creamy, about 5 minutes; stop every minute or so to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Lower the speed and add the eggs, one at a time, followed by the cornstarch, heavy cream, and olive oil. Make sure to scrape up the bottom of the work bowl with a flexible spatula to incorporate any lumps.

    Step 4

    Pour the batter into the pan and bake for about an hour, until the top turns dark brown (the center will still jiggle a bit). Place on a wire rack to cool completely before transferring to the fridge to chill from 4 hours to overnight.

    Step 5

    When ready to serve, release the sides of the pan and gently peel the parchment away from the sides. You can serve it right on the parchment or use a cake lifter to transfer it to a platter.

    Serves 10

  • Vegetable Fideuá  Vegetable Fideuá 

    A cousin of paella, this noodle dish is made with thin, short noodles called fideos (available at supermarkets from the Barilla brand, among others). Vermicelli or angel hair makes a great substitute. Like paella, fideuà usually includes a mix of seafood, but this vegetarian version is perfect for spring—it can be a main course or a side.

    Ingredients

    • 1 large tomato
    • 2 1/2 cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought vegetable or chicken broth
    • Large pinch saffron threads
    • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
    • 1 medium onion, about 8 ounces, diced
    • 1 red or orange bell pepper, about 8 ounces, diced
    • 6 garlic cloves, minced
    • 8 ounces cremini or baby bella mushrooms, halved then sliced into thin wedges
    • 8 ounces asparagus, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal into 2-inch pieces
    • 2 cups fideos, uncooked
    • 1 teaspoon pimentón, more to taste
    • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt, more to taste
    • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pep

    Directions

    Step 1

    Use a box grater to carefully grate the tomato, holding it in the palm of your hand; discard the skin or mince it to add to the dish. Set aside.

    Step 2

    Heat the broth in a saucepan and add the saffron; keep warm on a burner. Heat a large wok or paella pan. When hot, add 3 tablespoons olive oil, the onions, bell peppers, and garlic. Sauté until soft, about 5 minutes. Push to the edges and add the tomato (with the minced skin if using) and cook for 2 minutes. Push to the edges, add 2 more tablespoons olive oil, and sauté the mushrooms until browned; add the asparagus and cook 2 more minutes.

    Step 3

    Push all the vegetables to the edges of the wok and add the final tablespoon of olive oil and the fideos, stirring them into the oil. Add the pimentón, salt, and black pepper. Fold in the vegetables, mixing well.

    Step 4

    Pour in the broth with the saffron (it should just cover the pasta and vegetables); bring to a low boil and cook for 6 minutes. Lower the heat, add the peas, and continue cooking, without stirring, until the broth is all absorbed, another 3 to 5 minutes. Taste to see if the pasta is tender (if not, add another 1/4 cup broth and cook for 3 more minutes). Season to taste with more salt and/or pimentón.

    Step 5

    Remove from heat, cover the pan, and let steam for 5 minutes before serving.

    Serves 6

  • Arroz de mariscos Arroz de Mariscos

    This Portuguese specialty is a richly flavored seafood soup that often includes clams and mussels. Make it your own with your favorite shellfish—canned lump crabmeat or lobster chunks are wonderful in it. For a minimum of fuss, this version has shrimp and dry (or untreated) scallops. Carolino, a Portuguese rice, is traditional, but you can also use arborio—both are readily available online and in stores.

    Ingredients

    • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    • 1 large onion, diced
    • 2 red or orange bell peppers, diced
    • 2 serrano chiles, stemmed and seeded
    • 4 large tomatoes, roughly chopped, or one 28-ounce can diced tomatoes
    • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
    • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
    • 1 teaspoon pimentón, more to taste
    • 2 cups Carolino rice
    • 4 cups seafood or vegetable stock, more as needed (see Note)
    • 1/4 cup white wine
    • 4 cilantro sprigs, trimmed
    • 2 bay leaves
    • 2 teaspoons fine sea salt
    • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    • 1 pound shrimp, peeled
    • 1 pound dry scallops
    • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

    Directions

    Step 1

    Heat a large Dutch oven. When hot, add the olive oil and onions, and sauté until the onions become translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the bell peppers, serranos, tomatoes, and garlic, and cook for 5 minutes.

    Step 2

    Push the vegetables to the sides and add the tomato paste, cooking until it deepens in color and becomes fragrant, then add the pimentón and mix everything together. Add the rice, stirring to coat, and sauté for 2 minutes. Then add the stock, wine, cilantro, bay leaves, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil. Immediately lower the heat to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes (check after 15 minutes to see if more stock is needed).

    Step 3

    Stir in the scallops and shrimp; cover and cook for 10 minutes, until the shrimp turn pink and the scallops become opaque. Discard the cilantro and bay leaves, then ladle the soup into bowls, sprinkling with parsley and drizzling with olive oil.

    Note: Make your own seafood stock by boiling the shrimp shells, 2 sliced carrots, 2 sliced celery stalks, 1 quartered onion, 2 bay leaves, and 6 peppercorns in 6 cups of water for 40 minutes; cool and strain.

    Serves 8

  • Black bean and corn salad Olive Oil Hunter News #209

    Bountiful Bean and Corn Salad Recipe and The Importance of Protecting the Brain’s White Matter

    I travel to the four corners of the globe to find the freshest olive oil not only for its exquisite taste but also for its powerful polyphenols, which contribute to better health in so many ways. I also aim to share the latest studies on the benefits of olive oil and the Mediterranean diet with you as soon as they’re released so that you too can be aware of them. In February of this year, preliminary findings of a study focused on the Latino and Hispanic communities—both underrepresented in research—were presented at a major conference on stroke. This study on the Mediterranean diet and brain health is so important because dementia affects this group at much higher rates than it does white people. And it demonstrates just how far-reaching the benefits of this diet can be. The corn salad recipe that follows melds together many foods common to the Mediterranean diet and is universally delicious.

    Bountiful Bean and Corn Salad

    For Your Best Health: The Mediterranean Diet: Protecting the Brain’s White Matter 

    For Your Best Health

    The Mediterranean Diet: Protecting the Brain’s White Matter

    The Research: “Association of the Mediterranean Diet with White Matter Integrity Among Hispanics/Latinos—Final Results from the Study of Latinos-Investigation of Neurocognitive Aging-MRI (SOL-INCA-MRI) Ancillary Study.”

    Background: Hispanic/Latino people are the fastest-growing minority in America’s aging population.They’re also more likely to suffer the brain-wasting effects of Alzheimer’s disease or other dementias compared with white people of similar age. The Hispanic Community Health Study/Study of Latinos (HCHS/SOL) is a representative, community-based study of Hispanics and Latinos across the US undertaken to better understand health disparities within this population. SOL-INCA MRI is an ancillary MRI study to HCHS/SOL, focused on the genetic influence and cognitive impact of age- and disease-related brain measures. 

    Study Details:

    • SOL-INCA MRI included approximately 2,800 participants aged 18 to 74 years old, 45% men, 55% women.
    • Participants completed 24-hour dietary recalls when they started the study. A second dietary recall was conducted roughly 30 days later. Dietary intake was determined for participants with two dietary recalls by calculating the average of both recall questionnaires to calculate the Mediterranean diet score. Adherence to Mediterranean diet intake was measured at baseline, and each participant received a score between 0 and 9, with higher scores indicating higher adherence. The average Mediterranean diet score was 5.01.
    • The researchers used specialized imaging techniques to investigate the microscopic and the visible changes in the brain. 
    • Cardiovascular health was assessed using the American Heart Association Life’s Simple 7 score components: exercising regularly, eating a healthy diet, not smoking, avoiding excess weight, and keeping blood pressure, cholesterol, and blood sugar levels within a healthy range. Note: In June 2022, the Association updated Life’s Simple 7 to Life’s Essential 8, adding sleep.

    Findings: Preliminary study results, presented at the American Stroke Association’s International Stroke Conference 2025, held in February, found that closely following a Mediterranean-style diet provides benefits that extended beyond heart health: It was associated with improved brain health in this population. In general, a Mediterranean-style diet includes plenty of fruits, vegetables, whole grains, beans, nuts, and seeds with olive oil as a primary fat source and low-to-moderate amounts of dairy products, eggs, fish, and poultry.

    Researchers noted that the positive impact of the Mediterranean diet on brain health is not entirely influenced by cardiovascular risk factors such as blood pressure, cholesterol levels, and blood sugar, nor by behavioral risk factors such as smoking and physical activity, all known to affect brain health.

    “We have observed that cardiovascular health directly impacts brain structures; the effect of the Mediterranean diet on communication between regions of the brain remains somewhat independent of cardiovascular health,” said lead researcher Gabriela Trifan, MD, assistant professor of neurology at the University of Illinois in Chicago. “Even when considering age and cardiovascular health in people who ate a Mediterranean diet, the brain demonstrated improved organization of the fibers connecting different brain regions and enhanced communication, known as white matter integrity. Other studies have shown that adherence to the Mediterranean diet is associated with less brain shrinkage, called atrophy. This is the first large study focused solely on Hispanics/Latinos, who are projected to be the fastest-growing ethnic group in the US.”

    After considering other factors that could affect brain health, the analysis found that for each point increase in the Mediterranean diet score there was an improvement in white matter integrity and less evidence of structural damage in the brain, as assessed by the “white matter hyperintensity burden,” an important marker of small vessel brain disease.

    “This suggests that even small improvements in diet improved brain integrity,” Dr. Trifan said. “It has been suggested that healthy diets, and particularly the Mediterranean diet, improve white matter integrity by reducing inflammation, reducing oxidative stress, and through maintaining the health of the brain’s blood vessels’ function and stable blood sugar levels, all important factors for optimal brain health.”

    Mediterranean diet foods: avocado, vegetables, legumes, fish and corn

    Real-World Applications

    “Many Mediterranean diet components are already staple Latin foods (beans, corn, tomatoes, peppers, avocado, and fish). Our study will help guide Hispanic/Latino individuals toward consuming more of the beneficial dietary components of the Mediterranean diet without significantly altering their already established diet,” Dr. Trifan said.

    “These results matter because many health care professionals may not know about the eating habits of Hispanic/Latino adults, who consume many foods from the Mediterranean diet. The findings support the American Heart Association’s advice to follow this diet as one of the dietary plans that may help prevent strokes and potentially avoid cognitive issues,” said Philip B. Gorelick, MD, MPH, FAHA, immediate past chair of the American Heart Association’s Stroke Brain Health Science Subcommittee and professor of neurology in the Ken & Ruth Davee Department of Neurology at Northwestern University’s Feinberg School of Medicine in Chicago (he was not involved with the research). “The study suggests that the Mediterranean diet can benefit brain health and integrity, specifically concerning white matter. White matter is a crucial part of the brain that connects different areas and networks, helping us to function effectively. However, we still need to learn more about brain health and the Mediterranean diet, as the positive effects were only partly related to vascular risk factors.” 

    Among the study’s strengths are its focus on the largest, diverse group of middle-aged and older Hispanics/Latinos living in the US. The study’s limitations include the fact that many variables were self-reported with possible recall bias. Also, as MRI measurements were collected between 2017 and 2022, individuals may have adopted new dietary and lifestyle habits that may have altered the association documented at baseline.

    Note: The study is a “research abstract.” Abstracts presented at the American Heart Association’s scientific meetings are not peer-reviewed, and the findings are considered preliminary until published as full manuscripts in a peer-reviewed scientific journal. 

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  • Black bean and corn salad Bountiful Bean and Corn Salad

    Looking for a fast meal with layers of flavor? This dish has it all. What’s more, you can make it your own by adding other veggies or a protein, like poached shrimp or grilled chicken. Need it “to go”? Use a whole wheat or corn tortilla to turn it into a wrap. Note: If using canned corn, rinse and pat dry; if using frozen corn, defrost, rinse, and pat dry.

    Ingredients

    • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
    • 2 cups corn kernels, fresh, canned, or frozen 
    • 3-ounce slice feta cheese, crumbled
    • Two 15.5-ounce cans black beans, rinsed and drained
    • 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
    • 1 large bell pepper, diced
    • 1 small red onion, diced
    • Coarse sea salt, to taste 
    • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

    Directions

    Step 1

    Heat a wok over medium-high heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the corn kernels. Cook until the corn gets a slight char. Add the feta crumbles and stir until they melt. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl.

    Step 2

    Fold in the beans, tomatoes, bell pepper, and red onion. Season to taste with salt and pepper, then drizzle with more olive oil.

    Yields 4 servings

  • Croquetas de Pollo Croquetas de Pollo

    Croquetas—or croquettes, in the original French—are a favorite in tapas bars and homes throughout Spain. With a rich olive oil béchamel sauce as the binder, you can use whatever leftovers you have on hand—serrano ham, rice and vegetables, even fish. I’m partial to chicken and will poach two or three thighs in chicken broth for great depth of flavor. The peas are not traditional, but they add another layer of flavor and nutrients.

    Ingredients

    • 7 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
    • 4 ounces onions, finely chopped
    • 8 tablespoons flour, divided use
    • 1 1/4 cups milk
    • 8 ounces cooked chicken, finely diced
    • 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
    • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
    • 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
    • 1/2 cup fresh steamed or frozen (thawed) green peas, drained (optional)
    • 2 eggs, lightly beaten
    • 1 cup fine breadcrumbs or panko

    Directions

    Step 1

    Heat a saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add 3 tablespoons olive oil and the onions; sauté until the onions turn soft and translucent. Sprinkle on 4 tablespoons flour and cook, whisking continuously, for 2 minutes, until the flour turns a warm blond color. Slowly whisk in the milk, 1/4 cup at a time, waiting for the sauce to rethicken before adding the next 1/4 cup. Once all the milk is incorporated, the sauce should be extremely thick.

    Step 2

    Fold in the chicken, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and green peas if using. Remove from the heat and transfer to a large glass bowl to cool. Once the mixture reaches room temperature, refrigerate it for at least 4 hours or overnight. It should be very solid before proceeding.

    Step 3

    To make the croquetas, set up three dishes—one for the rest of the flour, another for the eggs, and the third for the breadcrumbs. Working assembly-line style, scoop out 1/3 cup of the mixture and use your hands to form it into a 3-inch cylinder (or
    a round patty), dust it with flour, dip in the egg, and roll in the breadcrumbs. Place it on a rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment or waxed paper and repeat with the rest of the mixture.

    Step 4

    When all the croquetas have been formed, heat
    a large sauté or frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the rest of the olive oil and as many croquetas as will fit without crowding. Sauté for 3 minutes on each side to crisp the coating and warm the filling. If necessary, make a second batch.

    Makes 10 croquetas

  • Bacalhau à Lagareiro Bacalhau à Lagareiro

    This dish translates to cod—the national fish of Portugal—in the style of the olive miller. Legend has it that this preparation was created to celebrate the early olive oil harvest. Traditionally it’s made with dried salt cod that’s been rehydrated, but I’m using cod tenderloin (any thick white fish fillet, fresh or frozen, lends itself to the prep). The fish is enhanced with batatas a murro—smashed potatoes. It’s often served with a raw garlic topping, perfect for fans of the “stinking rose.”

    Ingredients

    • 1 pound new or creamer potatoes, preferably all the same small size, scrubbed and patted dry
    • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
    • Coarse sea salt
    • 1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary leaves or the leaves from one fresh sprig
    • 1 large onion, cut into slivers
    • 4 garlic cloves, sliced
    • 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
    • 1 to 1 1/2 pounds cod tenderloin or fillets
    • Freshly ground black pepper
    • Optional garnish: 4 raw garlic cloves, sliced

    Directions

    Step 1

    Place the potatoes in a baking dish that will be large enough to hold them and the fish. Drizzle the potatoes with 2 tablespoons olive oil, a sprinkle of salt, and the rosemary. Bake at 375°F for 30 to 40 minutes.

    Step 2

    While the potatoes are baking, heat a frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the onions; cook for 10 minutes, until soft and translucent, then add 1/2 teaspoon salt, the garlic, and thyme. Continue cooking just until the garlic softens; remove from heat.

    Step 3

    Turn the oven down to 350°F, then carefully take the baking dish out of the oven and use a kitchen mallet or a metal spatula to smash each potato, exposing the flesh (if the potatoes don’t give easily, put them back in the oven for another 15 minutes). Move them to the perimeter of the dish and fill the center with the onions and garlic. Place the fish right over the onions. Drizzle the fish with the remaining olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

    Step 4

    Bake for 10 minutes, then take the dish out of the oven, flip each potato, and use a serving spoon to drizzle the fish with olive oil from the bottom of the dish. Return to the oven for another 10 minutes or until the fish feels firm to the touch. Serve the fish topped with the onion mixture and raw garlic, if desired, and with the potatoes on the side.

    Serves 4

For Your Best Health: Managing Depression: Using Scents to Unlock Memories 

For Your Best Health

The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

According to a new study from researchers at the Columbia University Mailman School of Public Health and The Robert Butler Columbia Aging Center, a very specific brain-boosting diet has been linked to reduced dementia risk and a slower pace of aging. The study, “Diet, Pace of Biological Aging, and Risk of Dementia in the Framingham Heart Study,” published in the Annals of Neurology, also explains how the diet helps slow down the processes of biological aging.

“Much attention to nutrition in dementia research focuses on the way specific nutrients affect the brain,” said Daniel Belsky, PhD, associate professor of epidemiology and a senior author of the study. “We tested the hypothesis that healthy diet protects against dementia by slowing down the body’s overall pace of biological aging.”

The researchers used data from the second generation of the Framingham Heart Study, the Offspring Cohort. Participants were 60 years of age or older and free of dementia and had available dietary, epigenetic, and follow-up data. Follow-up was done at nine examinations, approximately every 4 to 7 years, which included a physical exam, lifestyle-related questionnaires, blood sampling, and, starting in 1991, neurocognitive testing. Of 1,644 participants included in the analyses, 140 developed dementia. 

To measure the pace of aging, the researchers used an epigenetic clock called DunedinPACE developed by Dr. Belsky and colleagues at Duke University and the University of Otago in Dunedin, New Zealand. The clock measures how fast a person’s body is deteriorating as they grow older, “like a speedometer for the biological processes of aging,” explained Dr. Belsky.

“We have some strong evidence that a healthy diet can protect against dementia,” said Yian Gu, PhD, associate professor of neurological sciences at Columbia University Irving Medical Center and the other senior author of the study, “but the mechanism of this protection is not well understood.” Past research linked both diet and dementia risk to an accelerated pace of biological aging. “Testing the hypothesis that multi-system biological aging is a mechanism of underlying diet-dementia associations was the logical next step,” explained Dr. Belsky.

The research determined that higher adherence to the MIND diet slowed the pace of aging as measured by DunedinPACE and reduced risks for dementia and mortality. Furthermore, slower DunedinPACE accounted for 27% of the diet-dementia association and 57% of the diet-mortality association.

“Our findings suggest that slower pace of aging mediates part of the relationship of healthy diet with reduced dementia risk, and therefore, monitoring pace of aging may inform dementia prevention,” said first author Aline Thomas, PhD, of the Columbia Department of Neurology and Taub Institute for Research on Alzheimer’s Disease and the Aging Brain. “However, a portion of the diet-dementia association remains unexplained, therefore we believe that continued investigation of brain-specific mechanisms in well-designed mediation studies is warranted.”

“We suggest that additional observational studies be conducted to investigate direct associations of nutrients with brain aging, and if our observations are also confirmed in more diverse populations, monitoring biological aging may indeed inform dementia prevention,” noted Dr. Belsky.

Exactly What Is the MIND Diet?

MIND is a hybrid of the Mediterranean and DASH diets, tailored to reflect key findings from nutrition and dementia research. It details serving sizes of specific foods to focus on and which to limit, primarily those high in saturated fat, which is known to negatively affect brain health. 

Foods and portions to eat every day: 1/2 to 1 cup green leafy vegetables, 1/2 cup other vegetables, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and three 1-ounce servings of whole grains. 

Foods and portions to eat over the course of each week: 5 ounces nuts, 2-1/2 cups berries, 1-1/2 cups legumes, two 3-to-5-ounce servings of skinless poultry, and 3-to-5 ounces fish.

Foods to limit to these weekly totals: three or fewer 3-to-5-ounce servings of red and processed meats, 1 ounce whole-fat cheese, 1 fried or fast food, and 4 sweet servings. If desired, no more than 1 teaspoon of butter or stick of margarine a day.

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