Olive Oil Hunter News #170

Horiatiki Salad Recipe and The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

I’m a huge fan of both Greek and Middle Eastern salads, the ingredients of which are not only delicious but also mainstays of the MIND (Mediterranean-DASH Intervention for Neurodegenerative Delay) diet, a way of eating designed for brain health. It’s an offshoot of the super-healthy Mediterranean diet and the DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diet. Why the distinction? Because the latest research on the MIND diet shows it can slow aging as well as reduce dementia risk. Add this to the list of the benefits of olive oil—it’s one of the super foods that MIND suggests including every day.

Horiatiki: The Sequel!

• Beef Stew à la Française

  The aromas wafting from this stew as it cooks are tantalizing! And the finished dish is worth the wait (it gets even better the next day). Enjoy it on its own, over broad noodles, or with a side of creamy mashed potatoes.

  Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup whole wheat flour
  • 1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more as needed
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed
  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 12 shallots, trimmed and peeled 
  • 12 ounces white mushrooms, trimmed as needed and sliced
  • 2 pounds stew beef, trimmed of external fat and cut into roughly 1-inch chunks 
  • 1/2 cup Armagnac, Cognac, or other brandy
  • 2 cups beef stock, more as needed
  • 1/2 cup dry red wine
  • 1/3 cup creamy Dijon mustard
  • 1/3 cup whole-grain Dijon mustard
  • 1 teaspoon herbes de Provence
  • 6 carrots, peeled and sliced into 2-inch lengths

  Directions

  Step 1

  In a bowl large enough to hold the meat, whisk together the flour, salt, and pepper; set aside near your stovetop. Heat a large Dutch oven or stockpot over medium heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic, and shallots, and sauté until they soften. Add the mushrooms and continue cooking until they’ve browned. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the garlic, shallots, and mushrooms to a bowl. 

  Step 2

  Add the rest of the olive oil to the pot. Dredge the meat cubes in the flour mixture and add them to the pot (work in batches if needed to avoid crowding). Use tongs to turn them to get a nice sear on all sides. Deglaze the pot with the brandy, using a spatula to get up all the bits of fond on the bottom.

  Step 3

  Add back the vegetables and the rest of the ingredients, stirring to combine. Bring the liquid to a simmer, cover but leave the lid slightly ajar, and cook over low heat for 2 hours. Check periodically to see whether you need to add more stock to avoid scorching. When done, the meat should be so tender that it almost falls apart. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.

  Yields 8 servings

• Olive Oil Hunter News #200

  Ricotta Breakfast Cups Recipe, Spotlight on Local honey, Whole-Milk vs. Part-Skim Ricotta, Managing Pain with Diet and Benefits of A Gradual Exercise Increase

  Welcome to our 200^th Olive Oil Hunter Newsletter, and thank you for being part of our family. This issue’s recipe is a sweet break from breakfast yogurt-and-berry parfaits, as delish as they are. The creaminess of the ricotta, the sweetness of the pears, and the crunch of the nuts add up to a cup of bliss—so tempting you can serve it as dessert! To stay on track with your New Year’s wellness goals, you’ll want to read advice from the University of South Australia about diet quality and pain management and from Hackensack University Medical Center on increasing exercise without injury risk.

  Ricotta Breakfast Cups

  

  Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

  Whole-Milk or Part-Skim Ricotta?

  Taken as a whole, the body of research done on the merits and risks of whole-fat dairy foods—primarily milk, yogurt, and cheese—is still inconclusive. It’s confusing because these foods contain saturated fat, which—unlike the healthy unsaturated fat in extra virgin olive oil—should be limited to 10% of daily calories, according to the Dietary Guidelines for Americans. (If you’re watching your cholesterol, the American Heart Association recommends getting just 5% to 6% of calories from saturated fat.) 

  Some studies have found that dairy fat may not hurt heart health in the same ways the saturated fat in butter and red meat does. But deciding whether to choose whole-milk or part-skim ricotta depends on your unique circumstances, including your cholesterol level, how your body responds to saturated fat, and the guidelines you get from your healthcare provider, according to experts at the Mayo Clinic. What else you eat also matters—if your diet includes the recommended amounts of fruits, vegetables, nuts, legumes, and fish, some full-fat dairy may be just fine, at least on occasion.

  

  Quick Kitchen Nugget

  Local Honey

  

  With more than 300 types of honey available in the US, the art and science of beekeeping have never been more popular, and that means you may see local honey at your farmers’ markets and even in grocery stores. Local honey is strained to remove any impurities from the hive, but it’s not pasteurized and processed the way commercial honey is. Some people think that because it retains more nutrients, like antioxidants, it has health benefits—from easing a cough or sore throat to helping with allergies to healing burns. While the verdict isn’t yet in on all of honey’s powers, you might consider buying local honey just for its taste. 

  

  For Your Best Health

  Managing Pain with Diet

  Researchers at the University of South Australia (UniSA) explored the links between body fat, diet, and pain and found that eating more healthy foods—as outlined in the Australian Dietary Guidelines—was directly associated with lower levels of body pain, particularly among women. (According to the experts at Brigham and Women’s Hospital in Boston, these guidelines are similar to those in the US but recommend higher fruit and vegetable intake: 2 to 9 servings of vegetables and 1 to 5 of fruits, compared to the US guideline of 5 to 9 daily servings of vegetables and fruits in total.) 

  Globally, about 30% of the population suffers from chronic pain, with women and people who are overweight or obese experiencing pain at higher rates. UniSA PhD researcher Sue Ward said the study shows how modifiable factors, such as diet, can help. “It’s common knowledge that eating well is good for your health and well-being. But knowing that simple changes to your diet could offset chronic pain could be life-changing,” she said. “In our study, higher consumption of core foods—which are your vegetables, fruits, grains, lean meats, dairy and alternatives—was related to less pain, and this was regardless of body weight. This is important because being overweight or obese is a known risk factor for chronic pain. Knowing that food choices and the overall quality of a person’s diet will not only make a person healthier but also help reduce their pain levels is extremely valuable.”

  The UniSA findings also suggest that diet quality affects pain differently in men and women. 

  “Women with better diets had lower pain levels and better physical function. But this effect was much weaker for men,” Ward said. 

  “It’s possible that the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties of the healthier core food groups are what reduces pain, but we can’t yet determine whether poorer diet quality leads to more pain or whether pain leads to eating a poorer quality diet,” added Ward. “A healthy, nutritious diet brings multiple benefits for health, well-being, and pain management. And while personalized pain management strategies should be adopted, a healthy diet is an accessible, affordable, and effective way to manage and even reduce pain.”

  

  Fitness Flash

  A Gradual Increase

  Nearly 4 in 5 people make New Year’s resolutions for better health, according to experts at Hackensack University Medical Center in New Jersey. For 32% of Americans, the focus is on improving diet; for 36%, it’s on boosting mental health; and for 48%, it’s on exercise for enhanced fitness. 

  Research shows that only 9% of Americans who make resolutions complete them—23% quit by the end of the first week and 43% quit by the end of January, and the numbers continue to drop from there. One common reason people stop exercising is sustaining an injury. In early January, many people who have not regularly exercised pack gyms or begin new running or weight training routines. Without proper preparation and form, injuries can stop exercise-focused resolutions before they have the needed time to become habits. 

  “When you go from 0 to 100 with your exercise routine, oftentimes, your body can’t handle it, your form is off, and you become prone to injuries,” said Matthew Counihan, MD, orthopedic sports medicine physician at Hackensack. “Muscle strains, shin splints, and joint and tendon injuries are common when going too hard with a new exercise routine. Injuries mean a person has to stop exercising to heal, and oftentimes, the routine isn’t resumed.”

  To avoid injury, sports medicine experts say start slow and build gradually. “You don’t have to run a 5-minute mile on day one. Start with a walk around the block. Then, gradually increase your distance and speed. It’s the same with any exercise routine. Start with lighter weights and build up, for example,” Dr. Counihan said.

  

  Here are more tips from the physicians at Hackensack Meridian Health:

  • Get your doctor’s go-ahead first. It’s important to discuss a significant change in your exercise routine with your physician and address your readiness for physical activity and how to best prepare your body for it.
  • Find activities you love, whether running, cycling, swimming, yoga, weight training, or something else. An exercise routine is only as good as your commitment to it.
  • Stretch before and after working out, and set aside time to increase flexibility. This will prevent common sports injuries and keep you going well into the year. 
  • Focus on your form. Learn to do your chosen exercise properly—doing it wrong will cause injuries. Once you’ve mastered form, start adding distance, speed, or weight gradually. 
  • Mix up your exercise regimen. This promotes a healthy musculoskeletal system, which decreases the risk of an overuse injury. And don’t forget to rest on one day every week or so.
  • Massage sore muscles. When you start a new exercise routine, you’re bound to experience muscle soreness, tightness, or strain. Massaging sore joints and muscles can reduce tension, impact flexibility, increase blood flow, and decrease muscle stiffness.

  Get More Recipes In Your Inbox!
• Ricotta Breakfast Cups

  Giving ricotta a quick whirl in a food processor takes its creaminess to the next level. 

  Ingredients

  • 1 cup whole-milk or part-skim ricotta
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 2 tablespoons sugar or sweetener equivalent
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • 2 ripe pears
  • Lemon wedge
  • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
  • Honey to taste

  Directions

  Step 1

  Place the ricotta, olive oil, sugar, and cinnamon in the bowl of your food processor and process until completely smooth and creamy—between 2 and 5 minutes, depending on your machine. 

  Step 2

  Halve the pears, scoop out the seeds, and slice them into half-moons; squeeze some lemon juice over the pears to preserve their color. 

  Step 3

  Place a large spoonful of the ricotta cream at the bottom of each of the two glasses or individual bowls. Add a layer of pears and a sprinkling of nuts. Continue layering—you should have enough for three layers each of ricotta, pears, and nuts. Drizzle the tops with honey and olive oil. 

  Yields 2 servings

• Quarter 4—Italian Harvest

  Direct from Bella Italia Three Enchanting Extra Virgin Olive Oils That Will Elevate Every Meal and Seasonal Celebration

  

  • Chosen by your Olive Oil Hunter and meticulously handcrafted with Italy’s leading artisanal producers.
  • Brimming with the polyphenols that confer many of extra virgin olive oil’s health benefits.
  • Certified 100 percent extra virgin olive oil by an independent lab and delivered to the US by jet for the ultimate freshness and flavor.

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  They say that all roads lead to Rome, but, more important, all roads from Rome lead to olives! You can even see olive trees growing in the shadow of the Colosseum along the Appian Way, the ancient thoroughfare that led south.

  I’m always happy to be in the Eternal City and even more excited this year. Early intel was that central Italy was having an olive oil comeback—no weather or harvesting drama, just wonderful olives. Spring rains had led to bountiful blossoms and trees heavy with fruit.

  

  After a hot summer, the hoped-for autumn rains arrived on cue to help promote the right aromas and taste sensations. It’s not hyperbole to say that these were the most glorious looking olives I’ve seen in 10 years.

  Sadly, that was not the scenario in southern regions like Calabria and Sicily. So, this trip found my Merry Band of Tasters and me crisscrossing a relatively narrow west-to-east swath of this glorious country. We visited favored-status farms in regions including Lazio, Umbria, and Abruzzo to sample superlative fresh-pressed oils for you, dear Club member, and decide on the best of the best—this season presented us with an embarrassment of riches!

  

  A Happy Surprise

  As Club members know, I deeply appreciate having international olive oil authority Duccio Morozzo della Rocca on so many of my olive oil hunts. Duccio is skilled in every aspect of making olive oil, from tree cultivation to the extraction process and, most meaningful for the Club, serves as my right hand in creating specific flavor profiles. Each quarter, our goal is to perfect a trio of oils that will dazzle you—we know how much you appreciate having a mild, a medium, and a bold oil to pair with different foods. The band of central Italy where we traveled this quarter is home to a vast number of microclimates, which help create diverse flavors even within the same olive variety. Our attention was focused on crafting exquisite custom blends with the help of master millers.

  Plus, Duccio and I had a surprise for you up our collective sleeve: the debut of an amazing olive oil from northern Puglia, on the Adriatic—specifically, Fratelli Ruggiero, the farm of Nicola Ruggiero and his brother, Mario. Duccio and I began brainstorming months ago for a new way to tantalize your tastebuds, and we decided on Fratelli Ruggiero for multiple reasons, notably, the opportunity to work with a colleague of Duccio’s, Nicolangelo Marsicani. A master miller and olive oil impresario who often advises Nicola, Nicolangelo was particularly thrilled by a very special olive variety, Favolosa—“fabulous” in Italian. The Fratelli Ruggiero oil, our mild selection, more than lived up to the moniker.

  

  And there’s much more deliciousness that awaits you: a spicy medium oil from Claudio Di Mercurio’s Frantoio Mercurius, with an artichoke profile and hints of green almond, and a vibrant bold oil from Colli Etruschi, the collective led by Nicola Fazzi, with its more almond profile and hints of raw artichoke—two oils from the same “flavor family” but with very different personalities.

  Passion You Can Taste

  Each frantoio (mill) has its own unique approach to olive cultivation, harvesting, and milling. What these have in common is the passion of the three men at the helms. Ask what drew them to making olive oil, and each will answer that it’s in their blood, that their earliest memories are of the intoxicating aroma of olio nuovo, “new oil,” of the way it elevated even the simplest meals. They also share a determination to keep their farms thriving in the face of a changing climate and to constantly upgrade their processes to obtain the best olives and rush them to the mill—and then to you—as quickly as possible. This level of dedication results in olive oils you will adore and reach for again and again. Enjoy them on your own favorite foods and in the recipes found below, where you’ll find not only regional dishes but also some of the producers’ family favorites, and two from Duccio himself!

  Happy drizzling!
  

  

  T. J. Robinson 
  The Olive Oil Hunter®

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  This Quarter’s First Selection

  • Producer: Fratelli Ruggiero, Bitonto, Puglia, Italy 2024
  • Olive Varieties: Favolosa
  • Flavor Profile: Mild

  

  Club members know how much I value the longstanding relationships I’ve developed with the top artisanal olive oil makers around the world. Yet I also delight in expanding our global community when the stars align and I find a new producer whose olive oil sends tingles down my spine and, more importantly, on my palate! It’s with great fanfare that I present the first ever Club selection from Fratelli Ruggiero. In fact, it represents a series of firsts: working with Nicola Ruggiero and his brother Mario, creating an Italian extra virgin olive oil made from Favolosa—“fabulous”—olives, and having it crafted to perfection by renowned master miller Nicolangelo Marsicani, who has been collaborating with Fratelli Ruggiero for many years.

  A Modern-Day Renaissance Man

  Over the course of his career, Nicola has been deeply involved in local politics and served as president of the first consortium of Italian olive growers—but don’t expect to find him sitting behind a desk. He’s as hands-on as any producer I’ve ever met, working alongside his team in the grove every day. Nicola, who grew up in the coastal city of Bari but whose parents were raised in the countryside near his main farm, is laser-focused on growing olives of the highest quality and is meticulous about every design detail: how far apart his trees are planted, the perfect symmetry of their rows, even edging sections of the field with herbs. And to protect the flavor of his beautiful olives, he makes sure they get from tree to mill in record time.

  

  An Olive Oil Concerto

  Once our amazing fruit arrived at the mill, it rested on Nicolangelo to turn it into amazing olive oil. With Nicolangelo, I’ve come full circle: he and I first met 10 years ago, at his farm in Cilento National Park in Campania. I had hoped to introduce his own oil to the Club in those early days—I loved the quality, but there just wasn’t enough of it. Also, he might have been a bit apprehensive back then about just who the “Olive Oil Hunter” was, but now he knows we share the same goal of creating the highest-quality olive oil and expanding the audience of people who appreciate it how superior it is to run-of-the-mill (pun intended) products.

  Crafting an oil for the Club was a challenge Nicolangelo embraced. Favolosa was the hands-down varietal of choice, but he knew it had to satisfy our desire for a predominantly green-grass-and-tomato-leaf profile. One of his greatest skills is being able to tune Fratelli Ruggiero’s state-of-the-art milling machinery, just as a concert violinist tunes their instrument, to achieve just the right aromatic balance of bitterness, spiciness, and fruitiness.

  Nicolangelo, whose appreciation for fresh olive oil was born as tantalizing aromas wafted up to his childhood bedroom above his family’s mill, has spent much of his career studying transformative ways of growing, harvesting, and milling olives to create as perfect an oil as possible. Like Nicola, he’s very specific about parameters: his own preference is to harvest olives early, when they’re green and have a 58% humidity content. That signals the right ratio of pulp, water, and oil inside the olive, essential to achieving the right aroma. Our Favolosa olives were harvested at that precise moment, and all their characteristics have been captured in the bottle you have before you.

  

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings

  This is a beautiful expression of the Favolosa olive, an exciting and complex mild olive oil. On the nose, it’s grassy, with notes of tomato leaf, celery leaf, kale, thyme, basil, oregano, wheatgrass, green banana, green apple, and cinnamon. A vegetable garden in a bottle and on the palate, we tasted fennel, green tomato, wheatgrass, sweet basil, baby spinach, celery, carrot tops, the sweetness of Asian pear, the bitterness of walnuts, and a hint of the spiciness of Szechuan peppercorns.

  It will elevate insalata Torre a Cona and other greens; salads with fruit; Duccio’s pastina soup, tomato-based soups and pasta sauces; turkey involtini; filetto di pesce in crosta di patate and other delicate fish; spinach and squash lasagna; pizza; carrot, sweet potato, or squash dishes; Caprese salad and other mozzarella dishes; goat cheese; and crusty breads.

  *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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  This Quarter’s Second Selection

  • Producer: Frantoio Mercurius Penne, Abruzzo, Italy 2024
  • Olive Varieties: Dritta, Raggia
  • Flavor Profile: Medium

  

  “When I get an email from America, I know it is from T. J.,” confided Claudio Di Mercurio. The gregarious leader of Frantoio Mercurius, Claudio not only received excited, inquiring emails from me throughout the growing season but also—for an unprecedented seventh year in a row—collaborated on another extraordinary ultra-premium EVOO for our Club.

  How has this tiny, 60-acre family enterprise in central Italy’s Abruzzo region been able to sustain such an extended winning streak? I’d attribute it to a combination of artisanal vision, meticulous planning, geographical specificity, immeasurable sweat equity, and a rare Italian olive, native to Abruzzo, called Dritta.

  Rhymes with Rita

  I had never heard of Dritta when I first visited Claudio’s farm, in 2018. As the Olive Oil Hunter, it is part of my life’s mission to sample and savor as many of the earth’s hundreds of olive varieties as I can, at least 550 of which are indigenous to Italy. Dritta lives up to its name, which translates variously as “consistent, dependable, trustworthy.” Unlike most cultivars, which alternate between years of high production and low, Dritta bears fruit consistently each year. Claudio’s team grows Dritta on about 70% of the land, with the other 30% devoted to an array of Italian varietals. Frantoio Mercurius is nestled in a microclimate, protected from weather extremes by the Apennine mountains to its north and the Mediterranean to the east.

  

  Heart of an Artisan, Mind of an Engineer

  Claudio founded the operation in 2009 with the mission of creating ultra-premium EVOO. A systems engineer by trade, he consulted—before pressing a single drop—with the esteemed Italian olive mill manufacturer Giorgio Mori. It’s no surprise that Frantoio Mercurius operates a state-of-the-art Mori mill with a special knife crusher and a technologically advanced cooling system that keeps the olive paste at a low temperature, helping to preserve the aromas and polyphenols in the EVOO. Frantoio Mercurius brought Abruzzese olive oil into the 21st century, winning regional awards in its very first pressing season.

  

  The Embrace of Family and Food

  When I and my Merry Band of Tasters arrived for the recent harvest, we were thrilled that Claudio and his sister Graziella extended an invitation for us to visit their family home, up in the mountains. In the late 1950s, Claudio explained, his father traveled to the US and worked in New York for a period, earning enough money to purchase land in Abruzzo upon his return. The Di Mercurios’ home took several years to build; they moved in when Claudio was six, in 1970.

  What a joy it was to stroll the narrow, medieval-era streets of Appignano. And, oh mio Dio—the food! I knew Graziella was an outstanding cook, but witnessing her cooking shed, with gigantic pasta pots and wood ovens, and dining in her kitchen, surrounded by jars of fresh tomato passata, beauteous heirloom beans, a giant platter of foraged porcini mushrooms, and strings of dried pepperoncini—it was as though I had died and gone to heaven.

  You may feel similarly transported when you taste this incredible exclusive Club selection. Initially, we had planned on a single-varietal Dritta, but when Claudio brought out samples of just-pressed Raggia, another rare local varietal, we discovered that a tiny amount of it fine-tuned the complexity and food-friendliness for a harmonious blend. From Abruzzo to your table, buon appetito!

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

  The unique union of Dritta and Raggia olives joins two distinct personalities that enhance each other. We inhaled artichoke, dark leafy greens, radicchio, sweet hay, dark chocolate, and the sweetness of hazelnuts with a touch of pear and wild mint. On the palate, we again noted artichoke as well as spinach and dandelion greens, fresh walnuts and hazelnuts, the spiciness of celery leaves with hints of rosemary and nasturtium, and a persistent bitterness reminiscent of cacao nibs.

  Lavish this oil on salads with nuts, Graziella’s pizza di scarola and focaccia, ancient grains like farro and spelt, brown rice, fave e cicoria, borlotti and other deeply hued beans, braised dark greens, roasted artichokes, shellfish and squid, beef dishes, pasta in walnut cream, recipes with nutmeg, breakfast smoothies, and brownies and other chocolate desserts.

  *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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  This Quarter’s Third Selection

  • Producer: Colli Etruschi, Blera, Lazio, Italy 2024
  • Olive Varieties: Canino
  • Flavor Profile: Bold

  

  Enthusiastic early reports from my scouts made me excited about collaborating once again with Nicola Fazzi and the historic cooperative Colli Etruschi, in the central Italian town of Blera. Veteran Club members will recall that we featured glorious EVOOs from this award-winning co-op in 2022 and 2019. Yet, whenever I’d touch base with Nicola about how the season was going, he’d respond only with an affirmative but tempered, “Good.”

  My own tendency is to reach for superlatives when they’re deserved, but I know why he was cautious. Earlier this season, Colli Etruschi invested in a brand-new, state-of-the-art olive mill—and, as when a professional musician switches instruments or a race-car driver changes cars, Nicola was hesitant to pronounce it a successful upgrade until he had the proof in hand.

  Now, my lucky Club member, you have the proof in hand, this sensational single-varietal Canino—the first official pressing from Colli Etruschi’s beautiful new Haus mill (Haus is a forward-thinking Turkish manufacturer). As soon as my Merry Band of Tasters and I had a hint of this liquid gold on our tastebuds, the unanimous cry was, “We’ve gotta have this oil!” Immediately, Nicola became more animated—it was as though he had been holding his breath, waiting for our approval. His excitement bloomed, and he proudly proclaimed this one of the best oils in his three decades with the co-op.

  

  Local Heroes

  Colli Etruschi was founded in 1965 by 18 local olive farmers who recognized that, with a cooperative model and shared mill, they could combine their talents, labor, and fruit to support one another through both bumper crops and lean harvests. When Nicola entered its ranks, 33 years ago, fresh out of agronomy school, he saw an opportunity to intensify the focus on quality and market the co-op’s EVOO commercially. Now, Colli Etruschi involves hundreds of small-scale olive farmers and continues its multifaceted mission to produce excellent olive oil, pay its members a living wage, practice sustainable agriculture, and give back to the community.

  A Community of Excellence

  Today, Nicola’s daughter, Isabella, works for the co-op in communications and marketing, and his son, Alessandro, is dedicated to rehabilitating a local grove of abandoned olive trees. Nicola, born in Blera, looks forward to retiring “in about 10 years.” Meanwhile, his innovations never cease: with the new mill, Colli Etruschi can prioritize early-harvest pressing of green olives (my preference, as Club members know, for optimizing flavors and polyphenols). I felt like a kid in a candy shop in the late afternoon, as farmers delivered bushels, baskets, and bins of just-picked, perfectly shaped, light-green olives, kilos and kilos of them, which would be rushed to the mill, cold-washed, and pressed into the golden-green elixir I have delivered to you.

  Nicola prizes the herbaceous complexity of this oil, a blend of several separate pressings of Canino olives. This robust, gorgeously aromatic blend radiates dimension and personality greater than the sum of its parts.

  

  Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings 

  A vibrant, full-flavored crowd-pleaser, the aroma of this Canino is beautifully grassy, with notes of chopped culinary herbs, sweet almond, fennel, mint, and whiffs of lemon, vanilla, and arugula. We tasted the sweetness of almond with the spiciness of arugula and white pepper, the intense bitterness of radicchio, and hints of green apple and microgreens, with a lingering spicy finish.

  This oil pairs beautifully with chicken cacciatore alla Romana, carpaccio, tuna and other meaty fish, octopus, risottos, beans, winter soups and braises, roasted root vegetables, wild mushrooms, roasted radicchio, broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables, celery leaf bruschetta and other bruschetta toppings, roasted radicchio, porchetta spread, aged cheeses, millefoglie two ways, vanilla ice cream, and yogurt parfaits.

  *See the recipe section below for bolded dishes.

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  Olive Oil and Health

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  Kudos from Club Members

  Go-to condiment
  As a professional cook, caterer, and recipe developer in NYC, I am always on the hunt for the freshest and best-quality ingredients. There is simply nothing available for purchase online, or in any specialty market anywhere, that comes close to the quality of your olive oils. Every season I eagerly await my next shipment of your olive oils, and each time I am surprised and delighted. Your oils are my go-to condiment of choice and my “secret weapon”—I use them to finish almost every dish I make. Their vibrancy and freshness make everything I cook come alive. I can’t wait to see what’s coming next…

  Jill PNew York, NY

  Thoroughly enjoyed
  We have been members for a year now and have thoroughly enjoyed the superb varieties of oils we have been sent. At first I thought we had too much oil with these deliveries, but how wrong I was, as my family begged us to share some and they quickly were consumed with joy. We are Italian Americans and olive oil has been a part of our diets all our lives. To find such great-tasting oils is a pleasure. I know that harvest season will be approaching in Italy, and we are looking forward to see what the Club brings us from the “Old Country.”

  Frank R.Sun City Center, FL

  Never have tasted more flavorful, delicious EVOO!
  TJ, I’m half Sicilian and thought I had tasted wonderful EVOO. My friend told me to give your club a try. I have never tasted more flavorful, delicious EVOO! Just an FYI…I have never belonged to a food club nor have I ever taken the time to email a review of any kind. Congratulations on a fantastic product. Just had to tell you…

  Dianne A.Colorado Springs, CO

  SENSUAL!
  There is only one word to describe the Ravetti selection—SENSUAL! An amazing blend. Many thanks.

  Tim F.Surry, ME

  First tasting party in the books
  Held my first oil tasting party last night. Most people preferred the Mild. As usual, my preference is the Bold. Wonderful color, smell, and taste.

  Nancy W.Conyers, GA

  I am impressed!
  Ladies and Gentlemen, Let me start by boldly stating that I am impressed! For years I have been buying the best rated store stocked olive oils I could find. Well, I was truly unimpressed with their taste and now thanks to you, I know why. My first taste of your fresh pressed olive oil was a blissful awakening to everything I had heard about olive oil over the years. What a difference! I truly would like to say ‘thank you,’ for introducing me to the exhilarating experience of fresh pressed olive oil.

  Gregory G.Fayetteville, NC

  I couldn’t get enough
  I was never a big fan of olive oils until I opened my first club bottle, the Cladium from the Spring selection, and smelled the freshness of this EVOO. Once I tasted it, I couldn’t get enough and was putting it on everything. I dreamed about it all night and started eating it by the spoonful first thing in the morning. I’ve never had such a delicious olive oil. Can’t wait to see what next quarter brings.

  Joe P.Harleysville, PA

  Extraordinary Experience
  Received my first delivery of oils today and made all three the center of dinner. I decided a simple pasta with fresh tomato, Maldon salt, and freshly grated Malabar black pepper, and a sprinkling of fresh snipped summer savory leaves from my kitchen garden would provide a suitable canvas to showcase the different characteristics of the oils. Perfect choice. They are all delicious, maybe equally so by virtue of their differences. I can’t pick a favorite yet. I’m thrilled I joined the club, so far the experience is extraordinary.

  Susan H.Alton Bay, NH

  Always spectacular!
  Can’t wait! Your oils are always spectacular! Will never go back to store-bought. NO comparison.

  Lin J.San Diego, CA

  The great taste it brings to everything
  Thank you, T. J., for all you do in searching and sending me all of these great EVOOs and vinegars.  I love all the great taste it brings to everything I put them in. I look forward every quarter to my next delivery. I also love checking out the recipes you send. 

  John N.Clyde, OH

  

  Recipes

• Fave e Cicoria

  A silken purée of fava beans served alongside braised wild chicory is another Pugliese classic, one we enjoyed at Ai 2 Ghiottoni in Bari with the folks from Fratelli Ruggiero. While it’s possible to find fava beans (dried or frozen) in the US, wild chicory is elusive—dandelion greens are a great stand-in and available at many greengrocers. Note: This recipe includes directions for soaking and peeling the skin from dried favas, but some purveyors sell them already peeled—you might see them labeled as broad beans. If you love chickpeas, they make a tasty substitute.

  Ingredients

  • 12 ounces dried fava beans
  • 6 garlic cloves, divided use
  • 1 bay leaf
  • 1 pound chicory or dandelion greens
  • 2 teaspoons coarse sea salt, divided use
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
  • 1 teaspoon pepperoncini (crushed red pepper flakes), or to taste
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

  Directions

  Step 1

  Soak the fava beans in a large bowl of cold water overnight. They will triple in size. Drain and rinse them, then peel off their skins with your fingernails (some beans will have a crack, which makes the job easier; for those that don’t, use the tip of a paring knife to make a slit to start you off).

  Step 2

  Place the peeled favas in a large pot with enough cold water to cover them by 2 inches. Smash 3 garlic cloves with the side of a heavy knife and add to the pot along with the bay leaf. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until tender, about an hour.

  Step 3

  While the beans are cooking, make the greens. Trim the stems as needed, rinse the leaves, and boil them in a large pot of water with 1 teaspoon salt until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain.

  Step 4

  Mince the remaining 3 garlic cloves. Heat a frying pan. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, the pepperoncini, and smashed garlic, cook for 2 minutes, then add the greens and cook through; keep warm on the stove.

  Step 5

  When the beans are done, drain them well and transfer to a food processor or high-powered blender. Add in 4 tablespoons olive oil and 1 teaspoon each salt and black pepper and process until smooth and velvety. If the purée is too thin, transfer to a saucepan and place over medium heat to thicken.

  Step 6

  For each serving, plate a large spoonful of fava purée alongside some of the greens and drizzle both liberally with olive oil.

  Serves 4

• Chicken Cacciatore alla Romana

  This is the second family recipe Duccio shared with the Club. Considered a “white” cacciatore because it doesn’t have tomatoes, this one-pot prep was traditionally used for making rabbit. It is succulent and flavorful. Taggiasca olives are available in some gourmet food shops and online; you can also substitute your favorite fruity brined olives.

  Ingredients

  • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • One 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 to 10 pieces
  • 6 garlic cloves, smashed
  • 12 ounces white wine, such as a dry pinot grigio (unoaked)
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1/2 cup Taggiasca olives, drained
  • 4 large rosemary sprigs, or to taste
  • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
  • 4 sage leaves, chopped

  Directions

  Step 1

  Heat a Dutch oven large enough to hold the chicken pieces. When quite hot, add the olive oil and chicken pieces, skin side down, and sear until well browned, about 8 minutes. Flip the pieces with tongs and sear for 3 minutes, adding the garlic after 1 minute. Add the wine and cook it down at a high boil for about 5 minutes. Add 10 grinds of a pepper mill and the salt. Lower heat to a simmer, cover the pan, and simmer for 20 minutes.

  Step 2

  With the lid off, add the water and olives; simmer for 2 minutes. Add the herbs and toss, cook for 2 minutes, then add vinegar and simmer until sauce thickens, about 5 more minutes.

  Serves 4

• Pasta in Walnut Cream

  This recipe was inspired by a pasta dish my Merry Band of Tasters and I enjoyed at Dal Sor Francesco, a restaurant in Vetralla near the Colli Etruschi mill that we try to visit every year. We arrived at the height of fresh walnut season and saw the nuts everywhere. Walnut sauce is actually a specialty of Liguria, a region in northern Italy, where it’s prepared in a pesto style. My version is a bit creamier but still takes only a few minutes to make.

  Ingredients

  • 8 ounces fusilli or other spiral-shaped pasta
  • 1 cup shelled walnuts 
  • 1 garlic clove 
  • 1 cup half-and-half
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano
  • 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • Optional garnish: freshly grated nutmeg

  Directions

  Step 1

  Cook the pasta according to package directions. While it’s boiling, heat a large frying pan. When the pan is hot, add the walnuts and toast until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Reserve and coarsely chop 1/4 cup of the toasted walnuts. Add the rest of the walnuts and the garlic to a food processor and process until finely chopped, about 30 seconds. Add in the half-and-half, olive oil, and cheese, and pulse until you get a sauce. Transfer the sauce to the frying pan and heat to a simmer.

  Step 2

  Reserve 1/2 cup of pasta water and drain the rest. Add the pasta, salt, and pepper to the frying pan, and toss well. If the sauce is too thick, add pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time (it shouldn’t be runny). Garnish with the reserved walnuts and a sprinkle of nutmeg, if desired.

  Serves 4

• Millefoglie Two Ways

  Millefoglie, the Italian version of the French millefeuille, is extremely popular throughout the country. For chocolate lovers, I’m including a variation made with thin layers of chocolate in place of the puff pastry. Both get filled with a rich and creamy sweet cheese filling. The filling ingredients yield enough for either 8 pastry or 8 chocolate millefoglie; if you’re making both, double the quantities of the filling ingredients.

  Ingredients

  For the puff pastry layers:

  • All-purpose flour
  • 1 package frozen puff pastry, about 14 ounces, thawed as directed on the label

  For the chocolate layers:

  • 12 ounces dark chocolate, coarsely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

  For the cream filling:

  • 12 ounces mascarpone, room temperature
  • 8 ounces whole milk ricotta
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla
  • 2/3 cup confectioner’s sugar, plus more for dusting
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • Optional garnish: fresh berries

  Directions

  Step 1

  For the puff pastry layers: Heat the oven to 425°F. Lightly flour a 18×15 piece of parchment paper and a rolling pin. Unfold the thawed dough on the parchment. Roll out the dough to a 16×12 rectangle. Cut the dough into 24 equal rectangles, about 2×4 each. Slip a cookie sheet under the parchment. Add a little space between the rectangles and refrigerate for 15 minutes. Remove from the fridge and bake until the pastries puff and turn golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool to room temperature before assembling.

  Step 2

  For the chocolate layers: Draw a 16×12 rectangle on a long piece of parchment, flip it over, and place on a cookie sheet; set aside. Place the chocolate pieces and olive oil in a microwave-safe bowl and microwave at 40 percent power for 3 minutes; repeat if not fully melted, checking every minute. Stir until smooth. Pour the melted chocolate on the parchment and, using a long offset spatula, spread it out to the edges of the drawn border. Place in the fridge for 10 minutes to slightly firm it, then use a very sharp chef’s knife to cut it into 24 equal rectangles, about 2×4 each.

  Step 3

  For the cream filling: Whip all the ingredients in a mixer or food processor until smooth and thick. Transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a 1-inch round tip, or simply fill a quart-size freezer bag and snip off one of the corners to pipe.

  Step 4

  To assemble, pipe two rows of dots of cream on each of 8 pieces of chocolate or puff pastry, top each with another piece of chocolate or puff pastry, pipe again, then top with a third piece of chocolate or puff pastry. Use a small strainer to dust the tops with confectioner’s sugar. Garnish with berries
  if desired.

  Serves 8

• Turkey Involtini

  This dish is a celebration showstopper with ingredients that reflect the colors of the Italian flag. The key is to have your butcher debone and butterfly a large, fresh turkey breast, leaving the skin on, and then to pound it to an even thickness for easier rolling.

  Ingredients

  • 1 small yellow onion, about 4 ounces
  • 2 garlic cloves
  • 1/4 cup pine nuts
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use
  • 12 ounces fresh spinach, rinsed, patted dry, and coarsely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon each coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, divided use
  • 1 whole boneless, skin-on turkey breast, butterflied and pounded to about 1/2-inch thickness
  • 8 ounces sun-dried tomatoes, coarsely chopped
  • 12 ounces fontina cheese, coarsely grated

  Directions

  Step 1

  Finely chop the onions and garlic in a food processor or by hand; set aside briefly. Heat a large frying pan. When hot, dry-toast the pine nuts for 2 minutes until they turn golden, then transfer to a small bowl and set aside. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to the hot frying pan, then add the onions and garlic and sauté until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. Start adding spinach to the pan by the handful, adding more as each batch cooks down. Add 1/3 teaspoon each of salt and pepper and keep cooking until the liquid from the spinach evaporates, about 8 minutes (press the spinach against the sides of the pan with a large wooden spoon to release more liquid). Take the pan off the stove and let the spinach cool slightly, then roll it up in a clean kitchen towel to squeeze out any add remaining liquid.

  Step 2

  Heat the oven to 350°F. Drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil across a rimmed sheet pan. Prep
  a countertop surface with a large piece of parchment paper. Place the turkey, skin side down, on the parchment and sprinkle with another 1/3 teaspoon each of salt and pepper, then top with an even layer of the sun-dried tomatoes, leaving a 1-inch border. Sprinkle the cheese over the tomatoes, then spread the spinach mixture over the cheese. Top with the pine nuts.

  Step 3

  Starting on the long side nearest to you, roll up the turkey, tucking in the filling as you roll. Use cotton kitchen twine to tie up the roll at 2-inch intervals to help it hold its shape. If needed, use bamboo skewers to hold the ends closed. Carefully transfer the turkey roll to the sheet pan, seam side down. Rub the final 1/3 teaspoon of salt and pepper over the skin, then drizzle the roll with the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and place in the oven to roast.

  Step 4

  The turkey is done when an instant-read thermometer registers 160°F and the skin has browned; start checking after 60 minutes. Rest for 10 minutes, then snip and discard the twine and any skewers. To serve, cut into generous slices.

  Serves 6 to 8

• Spinach and Squash Lasagna

  This is a flavorful meatless take on traditional lasagna. Many markets now sell fresh lasagna sheets or boxes of “no-boil” dry lasagna sheets that soften while cooking, thanks to the moisture from other ingredients.

  Ingredients

  • 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
  • 2 pounds whole squash or 1 3/4 pounds precut chunks
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • Fine sea salt
  • 3/4 pound fresh or 1 pound dry regular or no-boil lasagna sheets
  • 16 ounces whole milk ricotta
  • 2 large eggs
  • 1 3/4 cups freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided use
  • Pinch of pepperoncini (crushed red pepper flakes), plus more to taste
  • 1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage, about 3 large leaves
  • 2 garlic cloves, grated on a microplane
  • 1 pound fresh spinach, rinsed, patted dry, and coarsely chopped
  • 6 ounces fontina, grated, about 1 3/4 cups

  Directions

  Step 1

  Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place 1 tablespoon olive oil in a 9×13 baking dish and spread it over the bottom and sides with a pastry brush or clean fingers; set aside.

  Step 2

  Peel the squash as needed and cut into a small dice, about 1/4 inch in thickness. Toss with 2 tablespoons olive oil, 10 grinds of a pepper mill, and 1 teaspoon salt. Roast in a rimmed sheet pan for 20 minutes, just until a sharp knife pierces a few pieces with barely any resistance. Cool slightly and transfer to a large mixing bowl.

  Step 3

  Complete the following steps while the squash
  is roasting. If using regular dried lasagna sheets, cook them according to package directions for
  al dente, drain, rinse with cool water to stop the cooking process and make them easier to handle, and set aside.

  Step 4

  In a large bowl, mix the ricotta, eggs, 1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, pepperoncini, nutmeg, and sage; set aside.

  Step 5

  Heat a large frying pan. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the garlic, then start adding spinach to the pan by the handful, adding more as each batch cooks down. Keep cooking until the liquid from the spinach evaporates, about 8 minutes (press the spinach against the sides of the pan with a large wooden spoon to release more liquid). Take the pan off the stove and let the spinach cool slightly, then roll it up in a clean kitchen towel to squeeze out any add remaining liquid. Add to the bowl with the squash and combine.

  Step 6

  Lower the oven temperature to 350°F. Place a layer of lasagna sheets in the prepared baking dish, spread on 1/3 of the cheese mixture, then 1/3 of the squash mixture; sprinkle on 1/2 cup fontina and 1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano. Repeat that sequence twice more, then top with the rest of the fontina and a drizzle of olive oil.

  Step 7

  Bake for 45 minutes until the cheese is bubbly
  (if you’d like it more browned, place under the broiler for 2 to 3 minutes). Let it cool slightly before cutting into squares, dressing each one with a drizzle of olive oil.

  Serves 10

For Your Best Health

The MIND Diet for Brain Health: More Benefits of Olive Oil

According to a new study from researchers at the Columbia University Mailman School of Public Health and The Robert Butler Columbia Aging Center, a very specific brain-boosting diet has been linked to reduced dementia risk and a slower pace of aging. The study, “Diet, Pace of Biological Aging, and Risk of Dementia in the Framingham Heart Study,” published in the Annals of Neurology, also explains how the diet helps slow down the processes of biological aging.

“Much attention to nutrition in dementia research focuses on the way specific nutrients affect the brain,” said Daniel Belsky, PhD, associate professor of epidemiology and a senior author of the study. “We tested the hypothesis that healthy diet protects against dementia by slowing down the body’s overall pace of biological aging.”

The researchers used data from the second generation of the Framingham Heart Study, the Offspring Cohort. Participants were 60 years of age or older and free of dementia and had available dietary, epigenetic, and follow-up data. Follow-up was done at nine examinations, approximately every 4 to 7 years, which included a physical exam, lifestyle-related questionnaires, blood sampling, and, starting in 1991, neurocognitive testing. Of 1,644 participants included in the analyses, 140 developed dementia. 

To measure the pace of aging, the researchers used an epigenetic clock called DunedinPACE developed by Dr. Belsky and colleagues at Duke University and the University of Otago in Dunedin, New Zealand. The clock measures how fast a person’s body is deteriorating as they grow older, “like a speedometer for the biological processes of aging,” explained Dr. Belsky.

“We have some strong evidence that a healthy diet can protect against dementia,” said Yian Gu, PhD, associate professor of neurological sciences at Columbia University Irving Medical Center and the other senior author of the study, “but the mechanism of this protection is not well understood.” Past research linked both diet and dementia risk to an accelerated pace of biological aging. “Testing the hypothesis that multi-system biological aging is a mechanism of underlying diet-dementia associations was the logical next step,” explained Dr. Belsky.

The research determined that higher adherence to the MIND diet slowed the pace of aging as measured by DunedinPACE and reduced risks for dementia and mortality. Furthermore, slower DunedinPACE accounted for 27% of the diet-dementia association and 57% of the diet-mortality association.

“Our findings suggest that slower pace of aging mediates part of the relationship of healthy diet with reduced dementia risk, and therefore, monitoring pace of aging may inform dementia prevention,” said first author Aline Thomas, PhD, of the Columbia Department of Neurology and Taub Institute for Research on Alzheimer’s Disease and the Aging Brain. “However, a portion of the diet-dementia association remains unexplained, therefore we believe that continued investigation of brain-specific mechanisms in well-designed mediation studies is warranted.”

“We suggest that additional observational studies be conducted to investigate direct associations of nutrients with brain aging, and if our observations are also confirmed in more diverse populations, monitoring biological aging may indeed inform dementia prevention,” noted Dr. Belsky.

Exactly What Is the MIND Diet?

MIND is a hybrid of the Mediterranean and DASH diets, tailored to reflect key findings from nutrition and dementia research. It details serving sizes of specific foods to focus on and which to limit, primarily those high in saturated fat, which is known to negatively affect brain health. 

Foods and portions to eat every day: 1/2 to 1 cup green leafy vegetables, 1/2 cup other vegetables, 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, and three 1-ounce servings of whole grains. 

Foods and portions to eat over the course of each week: 5 ounces nuts, 2-1/2 cups berries, 1-1/2 cups legumes, two 3-to-5-ounce servings of skinless poultry, and 3-to-5 ounces fish.

Foods to limit to these weekly totals: three or fewer 3-to-5-ounce servings of red and processed meats, 1 ounce whole-fat cheese, 1 fried or fast food, and 4 sweet servings. If desired, no more than 1 teaspoon of butter or stick of margarine a day.