Sumptuous Fresh-Pressed Olive Oils from Chile’s Leading Artisanal Producer Will Delight Your Taste Buds and Elevate Every Meal
- These Club exclusives, available nowhere else, showcase this South American country’s amazing olive varietals.
- Each unique blend is extraordinarily food-friendly, ready to lavish on all your seasonal dishes.
- Certified by an independent lab to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil, this trio was rushed to the US by jet so that you can experience the tantalizing flavors and healthy polyphenols at their peak.
Majestic, awe-inspiring, breathtaking—those are the adjectives that come to mind every time I fly over the snow-capped Andes on my way to Santiago. The Chilean harvest always holds many surprises for your Olive Oil Hunter, and this year the results are beyond spectacular, from an enchanting Picual to an Arbequina enhanced with Coratina to an olive oil that’s an international cornucopia of cultivars—five varietals that come together to exceed the sum of its delicious parts! I am thrilled to present them to you for your warm-weather table.
My Merry Band of Tasters, Down South America Way
With the seasons reversed in the Southern Hemisphere, it always takes a few minutes to get accustomed to seeing the colors of autumn after leaving spring behind in the US. This is also Chile’s wine country (not as well-known as the Mendoza region of neighboring Argentina, but arguably ment to create outstanding olive oils rather than cut corners for a fast profit.)
At Juanjo’s side is master agronomist Juan Carlos Pérez, who, with 20 years of experience (more than three-quarters of them at Pobeña!), is considered a top olive expert in the country, and also has a patient and gentle nature that keeps everyone on an even keel. Thanks to his skill in the field—I’ve always said that exceptional olive oil starts in the field and is finished in the mill—we had incredible choices to play with! In Chile, “we” always includes my good friend and international olive oil competition judge Denise Langevin and my favorite olive savant, Duccio Morozzo della Rocca, whose expertise is in demand around the world.
Outpacing the Imminent Frost
This season had none of the typical drama—there was enough water for irrigation as needed, thanks in part to a new well on the farm and a light rain that primed the olives for harvest. But, in recent years, Mother Nature found a new Chilean curveball to throw: an early frost. That’s when the temperature drops below freezing overnight. When the dip lasts five hours or so, the olives freeze on the trees, negatively affecting the flavor of their oils. Last year, we heard that 40 percent of the country’s olives froze. But that didn’t stop lesser-quality oils from being sold at sky-high prices on the global market. As the country’s preeminent farm, Pobeña now has the better plan: harvest early to avoid the problem. “You lose some quantity,” Juanjo explained, “but the quality is superb, with vibrant aromas.”
I often talk about our fresh-pressed olive oils being food-friendly, and the culinary experiences we had in Santiago and in the countryside showcased this quality in our trio. We generously drizzled them at the farm-to-table lunch we had at the Alonso family homestead as well as the feast we enjoyed in Santa Cruz at Francis Mallmann’s Fuegos de Apalta, named for the open-fire kitchen in the center of the restaurant, a hallmark of the world-renowned grill master. Impressively, when we toured behind the scenes at Boragó, ranked one of the top restaurants in the world, we saw that Pobeña olive oil was used in the preparation of the exquisitely constructed food-as-art still-lifes created by its vast team of chefs. Though many fine-dining restaurants around the world use less expensive oils (to avoid cutting into their margins), Boragó, located in Santiago’s Vitacura neighborhood, uses only the very best—just like you, my discriminating Club member. Get ready to experience the taste sensations of these harvest-fresh oils in the inspired dishes in this report’s recipe section as well as with all your favorite food
Happy drizzling!
T. J. Robinson
The Olive Oil Hunter®
This Quarter’s First Selection
- Producer: Denise Langevin La Estrella, Chile
- Olive Varieties: Arbequina, Coratina
- Flavor Profile: Mild
“I cook everything with olive oil,” exhorts international olive oil authority Denise Langevin, drizzling a shimmering stream of our just-pressed Chilean blend over a grilled chorizo sausage in a soft roll, the savory South American sandwich known as choripán. “Many people save it for salad, and I tell them olive oil is for all food, you know.” Denise knows. She is a superlative olive oil taster, an in-demand adjudicator of olive oil competitions around the globe, from Los Ange-les to Turkey to China. Also an outstanding home chef, Denise treated me and my Merry Band of Tasters to a mouth-watering celebratory lunch at her home, a converted farmhouse in the town of Codegua, where she lives with her husband, Luis, Rottweiler Augustina, and a sheep named Pio Pio.
When we pulled up on a perfectly crisp autumn day—remember, Chile’s seasons are the opposite of ours—Luis was already manning the grill next to their tiled patio, as Pio Pio munched on grass in a corner of the yard. Denise ushered us to the table, where we whetted our appetite with marinated olives, some stuffed with blanched almonds and others with jamón Serrano (see the recipe on below). Lifting glasses of lime-hued pisco sour, we toasted to another collaborative culinary venture.
Then, savoring the food-friendliness of our dazzling olive oil, we dined like kings on the afore-mentioned choripán, topped with one of two zesty pebres (Chilean salsa), and satisfying empanadas, warm from the grill and filled with pino (beef). For dessert, Denise wooed us with exquisitely tiered slices of milhojas, a Chilean millefeuille cake of sweet crepes layered with dulce de leche. I am swooning just remembering it.
I first met Denise more than a decade ago, in 2013, when she was director of exports at the Don Rafael Estate, one of Chile’s pioneer ultra-premium olive oil producers. As two supertasters, Denise and I hit it off from the start—I loved hearing about her adventures as an international olive oil judge, and she was intrigued to learn about my mission to provide the world’s finest fresh-pressed olive oil to Club members year-round. We first collaborated on an exclusive Club selection in 2020 and have worked together ever since. I adore strolling through the olive groves with her, stopping to test the fruit for ripeness (see photo on above).
Denise and I also share a pressing desire to educate others about the extraordinary flavors and bounteous health benefits of EVOO. In recent years, Denise has partnered with local grade schools to help foster healthy eating habits among schoolchildren, teaching eager kids about gardening and Chile’s abundant, nutritious produce. “Tia Denise,” the kids cheer, as they run to her—it’s amazing to witness. Denise’s warm, generous personality, delicately calibrated judgment, and exquisitely discriminating palate are mirrored in the qualities of this quarter’s mild selection. “Every collaboration is also a celebration,” Denise says, of its creators as well as of the olive varieties.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
This Arbequina enhanced with a touch of Coratina is bright, harmonious, and very complex. On the nose, we sensed fresh-cut grass, sweet almond, lettuce, green apple, mint, and hints of celery and lemon zest. On the palate, we noted fresh walnuts and the sweetness of green banana and fennel, plus Romaine lettuce and oregano, the bitterness of Belgian endive, and the lingering spiciness of celery leaves and white pepper.
Enjoy it with eggs, morning smoothies, lighter vinaigrettes, pasta salads, and salads with fruit; pan-seared cilantro citrus fish* and other mild fish, ceviche, and grilled chicken; quinoa bowls, rice dishes, cauliflower fritters, pastelera de choclo and other fresh corn dishes, artichokes, and asparagus; brie, ricotta, mozzarella, and other mild cheeses; hummus; stone fruit, baked goods, dulce de leche trifle, vanilla ice cream, and yogurt.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
This Quarter’s Second Selection
- Producer: El Agrónomo, La Estrella, Chile
- Olive Varieties: Coratina, Frantoio, Arbequina, Arbosana and Koroneiki
- Flavor Profile: Medium
A large map of the farm hangs in the tasting room at Agrícola Pobeña. It’s a colorful jigsaw puzzle that identifies the locations of all their olive fruit varietals—I like to think of it as a visual representation of the skills of master agronomist Juan Carlos Pérez. Rather than cluster each varietal together, he has created a lot of interplay to maximize sun exposure as well as changes in elevation, from flat areas to hilly ones where hand harvesting is a must.
Juan Carlos was drawn to agriculture as a child. Of his parents’ six sons, he was the only one who would excitedly sit next to his dad, a farmer, on his tractor. Fittingly, Juan Carlos’s youngest, eight-year-old Laura, is already showing signs of wanting to follow in his footsteps.
He had a blank slate when he arrived at the farm, excited at the prospect of growing a wide range of varietals, now 11 in all. He planted the first tree with the Alonso family, and it’s been a happy marriage ever since. Deeply knowledgeable across fields from earth science to biochemistry, Juan Carlos understands the unique terroir of this region like the back of his hand.
I asked him what makes Chilean extra virgin olive oils so special. “Location, location, location—we’re just 40 kilometers from the sea in a climate so similar to the Mediterranean,” he answered. “The topography of the farm is also key. We have a lot of gentle hills and have oriented the trees to the sun. Each oil has a different profile based on where the trees were planted. I feel that the oils from olives grown in the hills are more powerful—and those are the ones you used for the oils for Club members,” Juan Carlos said proudly.
This very special olive oil is a veritable United Nations of varietals, with Coratina and Frantoio representing the Italian contingent, Arbequina and Arbosana from Spain, and Koroneiki from Greece. It’s a masterful blending of five distinct “voices” that we orchestrated into a harmonious chorus.
Despite all the demands of the farm—Juan Carlos now turns his attention to propagating new trees, pruning and nurturing in preparation for the next season—he always amazes me with how he happy he looks. His calm demeanor has helped him retain a strong field team that comes back year after year. They gain more experience with each season, in turn making the harvest run smoothly.
I believe that a truly great olive oil starts with the fruit, in the grove, in the hands of the agronomist, who then works hand in hand with a master miller to turn amazing fruit into extraordinary olive oil. With his attention to detail and brilliant results, Juan Carlos is raising the bar for other agronomists around the world. We celebrate him by naming this exceptional olive oil El Agrónomo, after this star agronomist. When you taste it, you will too!
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
Only a talented agronomist could have made it possible to create this blend of five olive varietals originating from Italy, Spain, and Greece. The aroma is lush, with notes of Belgian endive, walnuts and almonds, green banana, baby spinach, Tuscan kale, arugula, and thyme, plus hints of vanilla bean, cinnamon, and lime zest. We tasted green almond, artichoke, escarole, arugula, and rosemary, the bitterness of chicory and radicchio, and spiciness of both Szechuan and black peppercorns.
Rich and verdant, this versatile olive oil will enhance pork, turkey, seafood dishes such as grilled shrimp with pisco and merquèn* and vieiras a la parmesana, and fattier fish, like sardines, tuna, and salmon; white and sweet potatoes, broccoli, and grilled vegetables; salads with nuts; beans, lentils, and grains; guacamole and other avocado dishes; pesto; and chocolate desserts.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
This Quarter’s Third Selection
- Producer: Abel Alonso, La Estrella, Chile
- Olive Varieties: Picual
- Flavor Profile: Bold
You’d be hard-pressed to meet anyone as gregarious as Juanjo Alonso, the youngest of five brothers, all of whom are involved in the various businesses started by their father, Abel. I find his joie de vivre contagious and look forward to spending time with him every year.
Juanjo’s journey from student at the San Francisco Art Institute in California to head of Chile’s premier olive oil producer began soon after he graduated. The budding artist supported himself as a house painter. Knowing that Juanjo had no interest in the family’s main concern, a very successful shoe company, Abel was able to eventually lure him back to Chile by offering to pay him the equivalent of a year’s salary to paint its corporate offices!
It wasn’t long before Abel shared his vision for an olive farm with Juanjo, the son he felt was destined for the project. Abel was born in the Basque region of Spain in 1935, at the start of the political and economic unrest that would lead to the country’s civil war. His family survived thanks to the food they grew in their garden, the memory that inspired his new quest.
One day he asked Juanjo to check out a potential property with him. “I had fallen in love with the majestic olive trees during my time in Northern California and had already started googling ‘olive trees’ and ‘olive farming,’ so I knew that even though the farm we visited was very nice, it was at too high an elevation considering the proximity to the Andes. ‘Olives don’t like frost, so this is not the property for us,’ I told my dad. And he immediately put me in charge of finding the right one!” Juanjo recounted.
Fast forward to today, and the fruits of all their early decisions are evident with award after award lining the mill walls. What I truly admire is that they allot resources for continual improvement, always reinvesting to maintain their high standards, from updating their irrigation system to buying new tractors to speed the fruit to the mill. It’s wonderful to hear Juanjo credit the Club for helping Chilean olive oils getting the recognition they so rightly deserve.
There’s also sad news to share. Late last summer, Abel became gravely ill while on a visit to Spain. Back in Chile, he refused treatment, preferring to spend his last days at the farm surrounded by his adoring family. “One after-noon, we sat together, looking out at the olive groves. ‘We made it, you and I—I believed in you, and I am so proud that you made our dream a reality,’ he told me.” Juanjo’s admiration for his father and the heartbreak over his loss were evident in his eyes.
We pay homage to Abel with this very special oil that bears his name and a label featuring the family’s coat of arms and a Basque-inspired font. I know he would have been ecstatic about this magnificent Picual I’ve created for you, a varietal from his native Spain, a zesty, complex character like Abel himself.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
A Picual lover’s dream, this is a bold expression of the cultivar. It’s intensely green and herbaceous on the nose: green tomato and tomato leaf, celery, arugula, and Asian pear, with notes of chopped basil and peppermint. It’s very green and vegetal on the palate, with the flavors of wheatgrass, baby kale, spinach, and pear; the astringency of green tea, bitterness and zest of arugula, and spiciness of green peppercorns; plus notes of wild mint, parsley, and rosemary.
Its big personality is perfect for hearty dishes like chorizo hash,* chicken empanadas, arrollado de huaso, costillar de chancho, grilled steaks, lamb, duck, and wild game; dark leafy green salads and bold vinaigrettes; crudités; tomato recipes from pizza and bruschetta to gazpacho and sauces; hearty pasta dishes; cured meats; blue and other aged cheeses; and crusty sourdough breads.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
Olive Oil and Health
Greatest effects among postmenopausal women
Closely following the Mediterranean Diet (MeDi), which emphasizes fruits, vegetables, whole grains, legumes, limited lean protein, and healthy fats such as olive oil and nuts, has been linked to a reduced risk of chronic diseases, including several forms of cancer. Numerous studies have shown associations between lower breast cancer risk in women and MeDi adherence. To clarify whether the the MeDi exerts a significant effect on breast cancer risk, researchers conducted a systematic review and meta- analysis that compiled and analyzed the existing evidence across a large international group of studies.
Methods: After a comprehensive literature search, 31 high-quality observational studies were selected for the final analysis (12 cohort studies and 19 case-control studies). Studies were published between 2006 and 2023 and conducted in the Americas, Europe, and Asia, with the majority in the United States and Spain. A total of 1,347,446 women were evaluated, grouped as overall, postmenopausal, and premenopausal. Participants’ ages ranged from 20 to 104 years. Follow-up duration varied between 8 and 33 years in cohort studies.
- A cohort study is an observational study with an active group and control group, allowing researchers to calculate the occurrence of a disease in a population over time.
- A case-control study identifies individuals with a specific disease or condition and assigns “matched controls”—people with the same demographic characteristics who are not part of the study—which enables researchers to evaluate the differences between these groups.
Results: The overall pooled analysis found a clinically significant 13% reduction in breast cancer risk in participants who adhered to the MeDi. The effect was greater in postmenopausal women across all studies and in participants of studies conducted in Asia. A subgroup analysis showed that moderate alcohol use (red wine) did not affect breast cancer risk in the overall group, but an additional reduction in breast cancer risk was seen in postmenopausal women.
Discussion: These results indicate that adherence to the MeDi may help prevent breast cancer, especially in postmenopausal women. It has been suggested that the polyphenols in olive oil and moderate amounts of red wine may contribute to the cancer-protective effects of the MeDi. In addition, phytoestrogens from vegetables and fruits may interact with the body’s estrogen production, thus helping to prevent certain types of breast cancer from developing. The sites of hormone production during the postmenopausal period (fat tissue rather than ovaries) may also account for the increased effect of the MeDi in preventing breast cancer in that population.
Conclusion: Adherence to the MeDi significantly reduced women’s breast cancer risk in a large meta-analysis of international observational studies involving more than a million participants. Future research will help identify the specific anti-cancer mechanisms of the MeDi and illuminate its varying effects across life stages and geographic regions.
Reference: Karimi M, Asbaghi O, Hooshmand F, et al. Adherence to Mediterranean Diet and Breast Cancer Risk: A Meta-Analysis of Prospective Observational Studies. Health Sci Rep. 2025;8(4):e70736.
Kudos from Club Members
Recipes
Grilled Shrimp with Pisco and Merquén This dish features two iconic Chilean ingredients, merquèn and brandy-like pisco (in a pinch, you can use white tequila or rum instead). Ingredients Juice of 1 lime 1/4 cup pisco 1 1/2 teaspoons honey 2 teaspoons merquèn 1 teaspoon sea salt 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for basting 1 1/2 pounds large… view recipe
Vieiras a la Parmesana (Parmesan-Crusted Scallops) This dish is a variation on the wildly popular machas a la parmesana, local razor clams (using oysters is also popular). Traditionally, each scallop is cooked separately in its own half-shell. While it’s rare to find scallops still in the shell in the US, you can buy cooking-grade shells for an elegant presentation. For simplicity,… view recipe
Chicken Empanadas Many dishes were introduced to Latin America by Spanish explorers and colonists, including handheld meat pies called empanadas. Here, a flaky crust encloses a savory mixture of chicken, peppers, and an olive, which is traditional in Chilean empanadas. Merquèn is a popular Chilean spice blend of goat’s horn chile, coriander, and salt, which imparts a… view recipe
Arrollado de Huaso (Stuffed Pork Loin) Reminiscent of Italian porchetta, my Chilean version is filled with chorizo and a popular vegetable in Chile—sweet potato, or camote. Forming the chorizo into a rectangle with a rolling pin helps more evenly distribute the meat. If you’d rather not flatten the pork yourself, simply ask your butcher to butterfly it for you. Ingredients One… view recipe
Cauliflower Fritters This is a popular dish in Chile. Parboiling the cauliflower makes the fritters tender. Ingredients 1 head cauliflower, about 2 pounds 1 tablespoon sea salt 2 large eggs 1/2 cup flour 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano 1/2 cup milk 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon… view recipe
Borgoña Far simpler than a sangria, this Chilean drink is just red wine and macerated strawberries—sweet and refreshing at the same time. Ingredients 1 1/2 cups fresh strawberries 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 1 bottle Chilean red wine Optional garnishes: lime slices and fresh mint Directions Step 1 Rinse, pat dry,… view recipe
Pan-Seared Cilantro Citrus Fish This marinade enhances all types of firm white fish, such as halibut, sole, cod, and hake, which in Chile is called merluza and is extremely popular because of its sweet, mild taste. Fun fact: What’s sold in the US as Chilean sea bass is typically neither Chilean nor bass but rather Patagonian toothfish, rebranded to… view recipe
Denise’s Stuffed Olives When in Chile, I always look forward to breaking bread with my great friend, olive oil savant, and hostess extraordinaire Denise Langevin and enjoying her cooking. This is the first of two of her recipes that I’m sharing with you. It’s deceptively simple, but you want to source the highest quality ingredients. Note: If you… view recipe
Costillar de Chanco (Chilean-Style Spareribs) Grilling is a popular method of cooking in Chile, where families often gather on weekends to enjoy simple but ample meals, often barbecues. St. Louis-style ribs are “squared off” or trimmed and have a flat, meaty shape. Ask your butcher to halve them—this creates more flavorful surface area. Baby back ribs can be substituted for… view recipe
Pastelera de Choclo (Chilean Corn Pudding) Fresh corn is one of my favorite summer foods, and this corn pudding recipe, also from Denise Langevin, is such a delicious way to enjoy it. (Don’t fret if you fall in love and want it year-round—it can be made with 9 cups of frozen corn kernels.) Ingredients 12 ears fresh corn, raw 3 tablespoons… view recipe
