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The Olive Oil Hunter News #25

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

Sweet & Savory Lamb Boreks, Spotlight on Black Lime, Phyllo Dough: The Puff Pastry Alternative, Reach for Black Lime Instead of Salt

This stop on my first modern-day spice road journey is the most unusual one—the spice known as black lime. Black limes have a rich and storied legacy in Persian cuisine dating back centuries and have been used for everything from making a delicious tea to dyeing yarn. They’re popular in Iran (the modern-day heart of what was Persia) for soups and stews; in northern India; and in Iraq and the Arab states of the Persian Gulf, including Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, and Oman, where they’re known as loomi or limu Omani. Still, many American cooks have never used black lime before, and it’s hard to find them whole, much less the ground spice made from them, outside of some ethnic food stores.

Surprisingly many of the Persian limes (Citrus latifolia) used to make this exotic spice are grown in Guatemala in Central America, where they’ve become an important crop to satisfy a growing global demand for this quintessential Middle Eastern ingredient. Ripe limes are dried in the sun until they naturally turn black. While black limes are added whole in many Persian recipes, the ground version is very handy to use, plus the grinding process releases their fragrant oils to the max. You can taste their zing in this wonderful recipe for boreks, savory Turkish meat pastries.

Sweet & Savory Lamb Boreks

  • The Olive Oil Hunter News #25 
Sweet & Savory Lamb Boreks

    These cigar-shaped filled pastries are a Turkish specialty, traditionally made with sheets of a thin dough called yufka. I find that phyllo, which is very similar to yufka, makes the perfect wrapper—it crisps up nicely and really lets the lamb filling be the star. For appetizer portions, cut the boreks into bite-sized pieces just before serving. ​

    Ingredients

    • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for the phyllo
    • 2 cups diced yellow onion
    • 1 1/4 pounds ground lamb
    • 1 1/2 teaspoon black Urfa chili or red pepper flakes
    • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
    • 1 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably Vietnamese
    • 2 teaspoons black lime
    • 1 tablespoon honey
    • 1/2 cup raisins, sultanas if possible, roughly chopped
    • 1/2 cup unsalted pistachios, roughly chopped
    • Coarse sea salt
    • Freshly ground black pepper
    • 2 cups plain Greek yogurt
    • 3 eggs
    • 4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
    • 16-18 phyllo dough sheets, defrosted if bought frozen
    • 3 tablespoons poppy seeds

    Directions

    Step 1

    Heat the 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet. Sauté the onions until soft and golden. Add the ground lamb and cook, stirring constantly. Just before the lamb is fully cooked through, fold in the Urfa chili, oregano, cinnamon, black lime, honey, raisins, and pistachios. When the lamb is done, remove from heat and taste. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Set aside to cool to room temperature. If there’s any liquid in the pan with the lamb, use a slotted spoon to transfer the mixture to a large bowl—liquid can cause the phyllo to tear.

    Step 2

    Preheat your oven to 350°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat mat. Place the yogurt in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, beat two of the eggs with a whisk or fork and then fold into the yogurt along with the parsley. Beat the remaining egg in a separate bowl and set aside next to the poppy seeds.

    Step 3

    Set out a large piece of parchment paper on a countertop and place a sheet of phyllo dough on top of it. Lightly brush the phyllo with olive oil (you may need to dab rather than brush if the phyllo tears easily—don’t worry about small tears because they’ll be rolled up). Quickly place a second sheet of phyllo directly on top of the first and brush with more oil. Fold the double sheet in half and spread with a thin layer of the yogurt mixture, leaving a 1-inch border on all sides. Spoon a scant half-cup of the lamb mixture in a line along one of the short sides, about 2 inches in from the short edge and from both long sides. Turn in the longer sides about 2 inches so that they cover the outer edges of the lamb mixture, and brush the exposed phyllo with more oil. Fold the short edge of phyllo over the lamb and then roll it up into a cigar-like shape, brushing the phyllo with oil as you go. Place the borek on your baking sheet and cover with a kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining phyllo sheets and lamb, placing them at least 2 inches apart.

    Step 4

    Once you’ve made all the boreks, brush them with the beaten egg and sprinkle with the poppy seeds. Bake for about 35 minutes or until the phyllo is browned and crispy.

    Yields 4 main-dish or 8 appetizer servings.

Healthy Ingredient Spotlight: Black Lime

Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

Black Lime

Black lime is especially delicious on seafood, including grilled shrimp, salmon, and tuna, as well as on meat, rice and other grains, and vegetables. Besides delving into Persian foods, try it on ceviche, avocado toast, and soft cheeses; as an ingredient in vinaigrettes; in marinades, dry rubs, and za’atar for lamb and chicken…and on any food you usually like with a squeeze of lime. A fun way to enjoy its flavor jolt is to use it to rim the glasses the next time you mix up a batch of margaritas or Bloody Marys.

Healthy Kitchen Tip: Using Phyllo Dough in lieu of Puff Pastry

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

Phyllo Dough: The Puff Pastry Alternative

I love phyllo dough as a light and delicious alternative to puff pastry. If you’re lucky enough to live near a traditional Greek bakery, you may be able to buy it fresh. But it’s also readily available in the freezer case at most supermarkets—look for brands with the fewest added ingredients. When you work with phyllo, as you peel off sheets, keep the rest under a kitchen towel to prevent them from drying out. The great thing is that, with a light brushing of olive oil, any pieces that rip can be held together.

For Your Best Health: Reach for Black Lime Instead of Salt

For Your Best Health

Reach for Black Lime Instead of Salt

It’s hard to say how many of the lime’s natural plant compounds, such as vitamin C and other antioxidants, remain intact or even become intensified by the drying process used to make black lime. One thing is certain: It’s a great way to season food without reaching for the salt shaker, and limiting salt has great health benefits, including keeping blood pressure in a safe zone, according to the American Heart Association.

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Asturian Pork and Bean Stew

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

Asturias, a seaside principality located in northwestern Spain, is renowned for this hearty stew featuring various cuts of pork and large creamy beans known as fabes or fabadas. We love to finish this dish (perfect for a chilly day) with a generous drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Ingredients

  • 1/2 pound meaty pancetta
  • 1/2 pound dry Spanish chorizo
  • 1 meaty ham hock (about 1 pound)
  • 2 quarts plus 2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
  • 1 pound dried Asturian fabada or cannellini beans, soaked in water overnight and drained
  • Bouquet garni: 1 small halved onion, 8 garlic cloves, 2 parsley sprigs, and 1 bay leaf, wrapped in cheesecloth and tied
  • Large pinch of saffron, finely ground in a mortar
  • 1/4 cup boiling water
  • 1 medium tomato, halved crosswise
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 1 medium onion, peeled and finely chopped
  • Salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons pimentón (smoked Spanish paprika)

Directions

Step 1

Fill a pot halfway with water; bring to a boil over high heat. Add the pancetta, chorizo, and ham hock; simmer over moderate heat for 5 minutes. Drain the meat and return to the pot. Add the stock, beans, and bouquet garni and bring to a boil over high heat; skim off any foam. Cover partially and simmer over low heat until the beans are just tender, about 1 hour.

Step 2

Meanwhile, in a small heatproof bowl, mix the saffron with the boiling water until dissolved. Grate the tomato halves on the large holes of a box grater set in a bowl until only the skins remain; discard the skins.

Step 3

In a medium skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the pimentón and cook, stirring, until the onion is coated, about 1 minute. Add the grated tomato and simmer until reduced by half, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir the onion mixture into the pot of beans along with the brewed saffron. Simmer uncovered until the beans are very tender but not falling apart, about 30 minutes.

Step 4

Transfer the meats to a carving board and let rest for 5 minutes, then cut into bite-size pieces. Discard the ham bone and bouquet garni. Return the meats to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Transfer the fabada to bowls and serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Serves 6 to 8 — Recipe adapted from Food and Wine, September 2017

Mark Bittman’s Spanish Cod with Chickpeas and Sherry

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

Cod, chickpeas, and sherry are among Spain’s most iconic foods. This dish requires mere minutes of active time, but when paired with a salad (such as the Orange and Fennel Salad on page 14), can be served with pride to guests.

Ingredients

  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 pounds skinless cod fillets
  • Salt and freshly ground pepper
  • One 19-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
  • 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon dry or semidry sherry, such as amontillado
  • 1 tablespoon minced garlic
  • 2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Directions

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 325°F. In a large nonstick skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until shimmering. Season the cod with salt and pepper and add half of the fillets to the skillet. Cook over moderately high heat until browned on the bottom, about 4 minutes. Turn the fish and cook for 1 minute longer.

Step 2

Transfer the cooked cod to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with 1 more tablespoon of olive oil, browning the remaining cod and adding it to the baking sheet. Bake the cod for about 6 minutes, or until just white throughout.

Step 3

Meanwhile, set the skillet over high heat. Add the chickpeas and stir until warmed through. Add 1/2 cup of the sherry and boil until the pan is dry and the chickpeas begin to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Season the chickpeas with salt and pepper and stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of sherry and 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

Step 4

Spoon the chickpeas onto a large platter. Set the cod fillets on top and pour any accumulated cod juices over the fish. Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and serve right away.

Serves 8 — Recipe from Food and Wine, September 2004

Padrón Poppers

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

In Spain, Padrón peppers (now widely available in the US) are often sautéed in olive oil, then salted and served as a tapa. But they can be stuffed, too, as this riff on jalapeño poppers proves. Although their twisted shapes make them more difficult to stuff, shishitos can be substituted for Padróns.

Ingredients

  • 12 fresh Padrón peppers (handpick the largest and the straightest)
  • 2 ounces very thinly sliced Serrano ham or prosciutto
  • 6 ounces cream cheese, softened
  • 4 ounces grated Manchego cheese
  • 1 tablespoon finely minced chives or scallion greens
  • 1 1/4 cups panko bread crumbs
  • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • Pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika)

Directions

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or foil for easier clean-up. Lay the ham slices on the parchment and bake for 6 to 8 minutes, or until beginning to crisp. Remove from the oven and transfer the ham to a cutting board. Let cool, then chop or crumble into small pieces. Set aside. Reserve the baking sheet; you’ll need it for the poppers.

Step 2

Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F. Using a sharp knife, slice the peppers in half lengthwise, preserving the stems, if possible. Use the edge of a metal spoon to remove the seeds and ribs.

Step 3

In a small bowl, combine the cream cheese, the Manchego, chives, and chopped ham. Fill the pepper halves with the mixture using a spoon or a piping bag. In another bowl, combine the panko with the olive oil. Dip each popper into the panko, filling side down. If necessary, press the panko with your fingers to make sure it adheres. Dust each popper lightly with pimentón.

Step 4

Arrange the poppers in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the peppers have softened and the panko is golden brown. Let the poppers cool slightly. Arrange on a plate or platter and serve immediately.

Serves 4 — Recipe courtesy of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club