Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club

Mediterranean Deviled Eggs

They say what’s old is new again, and that’s definitely true about the classic hors d’oeuvre deviled eggs. But I like to put a Mediterranean spin on this popular canape with heart-healthy extra virgin olive oil as the enrichment rather than the original, butter. Olive oil not only adds creaminess, but a delicious spiciness, too. And adding a variety of garnishes lets you get super creative and give your platter of deviled eggs a festive look. Enjoy!

Ingredients

  • 12 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
  • 2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons mayonnaise
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
  • 1 tablespoon minced shallot or onion
  • 1 tablespoon flat-leaf parsley, rough chopped
  • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, preferably from a Meyer lemon
  • 1 anchovy or 1/2 to 1 teaspoon anchovy paste
  • 1/2 clove garlic, minced
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Your choice of garnishes (ideas below)

Directions

Step 1

Cut the eggs in half lengthwise, remove the yolks and transfer them to the bowl of a small food processor. (Alternatively, use an electric hand-held mixer.) Put the egg white halves on a deviled egg platter or other oversized dish.

Step 2

To the bowl with the yolks, add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil, the mayonnaise, mustard, shallot or onion, parsley, lemon juice, anchovy, and garlic and process until fairly smooth. Add salt and pepper to taste and the remaining tablespoon of olive oil if the mixture is too thick.

Step 3

To pipe the filling into the egg white halves, place a resealable plastic bag into a tall drinking glass and turn the edges over the rim of the glass. (For an extra fancy touch, place a wide fluted pastry tip in one of the lower corners.) Fill the bag with the yolk mixture and seal the bag after pressing out any air. Snip off one of the lower corners and then gently squeeze a generous amount of the filling into the egg white halves. If you don’t have enough filling for all the whites, chop the remaining ones and enjoy them in a salad. Garnish the deviled eggs with your choice of olive slices, slivers of sun-dried tomatoes, drained brined capers, chopped chives, good-quality anchovies, basil chiffonade, caviar and/or a sprinkle of pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika). I like to pick four to six options, depending on what I have on hand. Cover and refrigerate until you’re ready to serve. The deviled eggs can be made up to four hours in advance.

The Olive Oil Hunter News #31

Tuna Ceviche with Avocado, Spotlight on Merquén, How to Shop for Raw Fish, Diet, Exercise, Manual Jobs and Heart Health

The one I want to share with you in this edition of the Olive Oil Hunter Newsletter comes from central Chile and features one of the area’s most widely used spice mixtures: merquén (you’ll also see it spelled merkén). Rusty red in color, it’s made by grinding dried smoked goat’s horn chiles with salt and toasted coriander seeds…and it adds an unmistakable flavor to this dish. When shopping online, look for true merquén from Chile. Etnia is one brand that sources it directly.

Tuna Ceviche with Avocado

  • The Olive Oil Hunter News #31 Tuna Ceviche with Avocado

    Originally from the neighboring country of Peru, ceviche is very popular in Chile. Not surprising given Chile’s proximity to the Pacific (it has thousands of miles of coastline).

    Ingredients

    • 1 pound sushi-quality albacore or yellowfin tuna, cut in 1/2-inch dice
    • 1/2 small red onion, cut in small dice
    • 1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
    • 1 to 2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, to taste, stemmed, seeded and minced
    • 1 tablespoon brined capers, rinsed and drained
    • 1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut in small dice
    • Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
    • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
    • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    • 1/4 chopped fresh cilantro leaves, or more to taste Leaf lettuce, baby arugula, baby spinach, or radicchio leaves, for serving

    Directions

    Step 1

    Refrigerate the diced tuna while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

    Step 2

    Place the onion in a small bowl and cover with cold water. Let it sit for five minutes, then drain, rinse, and dry on paper towels. (This step removes some of the bitterness.)

    Step 3

    In a medium bowl, combine the onion, garlic, chile, capers, avocado, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the lime juice. Toss together gently. Add the tuna to the bowl.

    Step 4

    Stir together the remaining lime juice and the olive oil. Pour over the tuna and toss the mixture together. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes, stirring gently from time to time.

    Step 5

    Just before serving, add the cilantro and toss. Taste and adjust seasonings. Line salad plates with salad greens, spoon the ceviche on top, and serve.

    Serves 4 to 6 — Recipe from cooking.nytimes.com

Healthy Ingredient Spotlight: Merquén

Healthy Ingredient Spotlight

Merquén

Merquén is a spice created by Chile’s indigenous Mapuche people and it’s an essential ingredient in Mapuche cuisine. It’s the star of puré de papas picante (spiced mashed potatoes), pebre (salsa), and mani merquén (roasted peanuts). Try it sprinkled on your favorite nuts as well as on fresh popcorn. It’s both spicy and smoky, and reminds me of Spain’s pimentón, so it’s great in many classic Spanish dishes, too.

Healthy Kitchen Tip: How to Shop for Raw Fish

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

How to Shop for Raw Fish

Seafood shopping can be a true challenge, especially when you want fish that’s safe to eat raw. While the citrus juice used in ceviche changes the chemistry of raw seafood, it doesn’t remove every possible toxin. So, you still want to start with the freshest fish possible. The reason to look for sushi-grade (or sashimi-grade) tuna is that it has been harvested, transported, and stored to exact specifications so that it is always maintained at a safe (meaning cold enough) temperature. A very safe option is buying frozen fish filets that have gone through super-freezing, in which just-caught fish are frozen rapidly at temperatures between −76 °F to −112 °F, a method that also kills parasites. When allowed to thaw in the fridge, fish treated this way can actually taste fresher than fresh. If the fish listed as sushi grade at your store is labeled “previously frozen,” ask the fishmonger if it was super-frozen. If it was, then you can buy without worry. Because of growing demand for sushi-grade fish, you can now buy it online from some top-notch seafood companies, like New York’s famous Fulton Fish Market, and get it shipped right to your home.

For Your Best Health: Diet and Exercise Go Hand-in-Hand

For Your Best Health

Diet and Exercise Go Hand-in-Hand

Salt and pepper, seltzer and lime, olive oil and balsamic vinegar—there are some things that just go hand in hand. The same is true for diet and exercise. You likely already know that the US Department of Health and Human Services offers separate recommendations for each: the Physical Activity Guidelines for Americans and the Dietary Guidelines for Americans. But what was unclear was whether you could achieve health benefits from sticking to just one set of recommendations. Though many of us suspected the answer, we now know for sure: It takes both, especially to prevent a dangerous condition known as metabolic syndrome. This is a combination of health risk factors, including excess fat around the waist, insulin resistance, and high blood pressure, which are conditions that, in turn, set the stage for heart disease, stroke, and type 2 diabetes.

Researchers analyzing data from 2,379 participants of the decades-long Framingham Heart Study found that adhering to the diet guidelines alone lowered the odds of metabolic syndrome by 33%, and adhering to physical activity guidelines alone lowered them by 51%, but following both lowered the odds by 65%.

And there’s no time to lose. “The earlier people make these lifestyle changes, the more likely they will be to lower their risk of cardiovascular-associated diseases later in life,” said the study’s corresponding author Vanessa Xanthakis, PhD, assistant professor of medicine and biostatistics at Boston University School of Medicine.

Fitness Flash: Manual Jobs and Heart Health

Fitness Flash

Manual Jobs and Heart Health

Speaking of exercise, a 10-year study published in the European Heart Journal has some startling findings about health effects of jobs that require a lot of activity, whether from standing all day or doing heavy physical labor. While workers might be moving all day long, if the work activity causes blood pressure to stay high all day long, too, that’s risky for your heart—and quite the opposite of the heart-health benefits of a 30-minute leisure-time walk, for instance. “Many people with manual jobs believe they get fit and healthy by their physical activity at work and therefore can relax when they get home. Unfortunately, our results suggest that this is not the case,” said Professor Andreas Holtermann, PhD, of the National Research Centre for the Working Environment in Copenhagen, Denmark. “And while these workers could benefit from leisure physical activity, after walking 10,000 steps while cleaning or standing seven hours in a production line, people tend to feel tired, so that’s a barrier.”

Professor Holtermann is piloting several approaches to make work activity more beneficial. These call for using new strategies to complete tasks, like rotating between sitting, standing, and lifting during a shift for those on a production line, as well as ways to infuse sedentary jobs with chunks of heart-healthy fitness time.

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The Olive Oil Hunter News #30

Top 10 Questions About Extra Virgin Olive Oil Answered by T. J. Robinson, The Olive Oil Hunter®

I’m always amazed at how much misinformation is still circulating about olive oil, and extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) in particular. So, I was thrilled when Clean Eating magazine asked me to answer the top 10 questions people have about EVOO. And I’m equally thrilled to share my answers with you in this special edition of the Olive Oil Hunter Newsletter!

Q: What’s the real difference between artisan-produced fresh-pressed extra virgin olive oil and the oils available at the supermarket and even a local gourmet store?

T.J.: The words “extra virgin” have a very broad scope. Extra virgin means that the oil was made from the first pressing of the olives, which is a good thing. But if that olive oil wasn’t made by mechanical means only—that means without heat or chemicals—and if it wasn’t bottled and shipped right away, it won’t taste much better than a lesser grade and won’t have the high levels of antioxidants and polyphenols that give extra virgin olive oil its superfood status, not to mention the unmistakable taste of fresh-pressed olive oil. It’s wonderful to follow a Mediterranean diet, known for its brain, heart, and overall health benefits, but remember that people living in Mediterranean countries are eating the freshest olive oil—they have access to freshly pressed oil from their own farms or from small community farms, and that helps account for the benefits of their diet.

Q: How does olive ripeness at harvest time affect the taste, quality, and price of olive oil?

T.J.: Here’s a secret that I only found out when I got involved in the olive oil business. The highest quality, best tasting olive oil comes from olives harvested and pressed when they’re still green and contain only 10% oil—low yield but maximum flavor. Fully ripe olives that have turned black produce three times as much oil but have nowhere near the taste. These fully ripe olives are what many mass producers use to get more product. Yes, you pay more for fresh-pressed olive oil, but you benefit in many ways. This oil has the highest levels of various nutrients that keep the oil fresher longer in the bottle and that prevent oxidation when you cook with it.

Q: How does the olive variety play a role in the taste of an oil?

T.J.: It’s a huge component! The same way that a chef combines herbs and spices for the perfect dish, I bring together different varieties to create flavor profiles, using the best of what my network of small artisanal growers harvest each season. I might choose just one variety or use up to three to create the three oils for each of my collections—one mild, one medium, and one spicy.

Q: Should I buy a blend?

T.J.: I want to clear up any confusion regarding what I do when I create a blend of artisanal olive oils from one of the family farms I work with and what’s in some supermarket bottles of olive oil labeled as a blend. Independent investigations in the past have revealed that many off-the-shelf bottles contain olive oils from an unidentified country of origin. There are also oils from unidentified countries that were blended and bottled in yet another location. Still another issue is that some olive oils were found to be diluted with a lesser oil, like canola. Not only do these low-quality oils taste unappealing, you’re also not getting the nutrients you were expecting. You’re most likely to find the word “blend” tucked away in a corner of the label on a store-bought brand whereas in the Pressing Report I include with every shipment I write in great detail about the varieties I choose for my oils.

Q: Is there any truth to using the “refrigerator test” to confirm that an olive oil is pure 100% extra virgin olive oil?

T.J.: The refrigerator test claims that a true extra virgin olive oil won’t solidify when refrigerated, but that’s a myth. A cold fridge will solidify any oil. Also, it can’t tell you the acidity of the oil or its nutrient level—it’s just not an accurate gauge. Let me clarify more label confusion. “Pure” olive oil is the lowest quality because it’s from the last pressing of the oil and uses chemicals to squeeze out the remains. “Light” olive oil is also highly processed, removing flavor and nutrients.

Q: What are your tips on shopping for olive oil for someone not in the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club? 

T.J.: Look for the harvest date on the label, not just an expiration date. You want to buy oil within 6 to 12 months of harvest. The expiration date doesn’t tell you when the olives were harvested. Buy olive oil in dark glass, which helps protect it from damaging light. Choose a store with high turnover and that lets you taste the oil before you buy it. Light, time, and temperature destroy olive oil. Keep in mind that a fancy cut-glass bottle and an arty label can’t make up for a pressing date that was three years ago.

Q: How can I educate my taste buds? 

T.J.: Once you try really fresh-pressed olive oil, you’ll notice the difference right away. It’s easy and fun to do a taste test, and I recommend it if you don’t have someone like me who can curate oils for you. Here are the simple steps to take:

At a market, there will probably be disposable paper cups for sampling, but when possible use a blue glass so that your eye won’t trick you into liking an olive oil based on its color. Yes, if it’s very green, it’s from very green fruit (which is good), but that’s not the only indicator of quality. Pour about one tablespoon into the cup. Put the cup in the palm of your hand and swirl the oil around to warm it and release all the aromas.

Inhale deeply. There are many notes that define an oil’s fruitiness—it may smell grassy, herbaceous, fresh, and clean. Depending on the olive varieties, you might notice hints of grass, mint, and oregano, among many others.

Now taste. Put a scant teaspoon of the oil on your palate and chew on it a bit. You should taste fruitiness, but also bitterness (this tells you it’s from green fruit), and spiciness. You might get a taste that reminds you of arugula or black peppercorns or fresh ginger. It should tickle or pinch the back of your throat as you swallow it.

Q: Is it true that really high-quality olive oil makes you cough?

T.J.: Yes! In Italy, they often refer to great olive oil as a one-, two-, or three-cough oil—the more the better! The cough reaction actually tells you how high the oil is in healthful polyphenols (high is a count of 300 or more, and for a low-quality oil, it’s closer to 150). This is the type of testing I do on my oils, but you’re not likely to find any number indicated on oils sold in retail stores.

Q: What are your tips for storing olive oil so that it stays fresher longer?

T.J.: Most important is to never keep your bottles out on the counter, near a window, in a cabinet above the stove, or any area that’s warm. The bottom shelf of a pantry cabinet is excellent. On the other hand, do take it out and use it—don’t save it for special occasions. In our house, when we set the table, we take our olive oil out of the cabinet and put it alongside the salt and pepper—it’s a “sauce” that Mother Nature has made for you, so enjoy it.

Q: Can I use extra virgin olive oil for high-heat cooking?

T.J.: Yes, cook up a storm! Olive oil is wonderful for so much more than salads and other cold dishes. In fact, it’s a myth that you can’t use olive oil for high-heat cooking. The same antioxidants that help high-quality extra virgin olive oil stay fresh also help keep it from oxidizing during sautéing and frying. Of course, olive oil is too expensive for the large amounts of oil needed for deep frying, but if money’s no object, go for it!

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Tuna Ceviche with Avocado

Originally from the neighboring country of Peru, ceviche is very popular in Chile. Not surprising given Chile’s proximity to the Pacific (it has thousands of miles of coastline).

Ingredients

  • 1 pound sushi-quality albacore or yellowfin tuna, cut in 1/2-inch dice
  • 1/2 small red onion, cut in small dice
  • 1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
  • 1 to 2 serrano or jalapeño chiles, to taste, stemmed, seeded and minced
  • 1 tablespoon brined capers, rinsed and drained
  • 1 ripe avocado, peeled, pitted, and cut in small dice
  • Coarse salt (kosher or sea) and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 1/3 cup fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 chopped fresh cilantro leaves, or more to taste Leaf lettuce, baby arugula, baby spinach, or radicchio leaves, for serving

Directions

Step 1

Refrigerate the diced tuna while you prepare the remaining ingredients.

Step 2

Place the onion in a small bowl and cover with cold water. Let it sit for five minutes, then drain, rinse, and dry on paper towels. (This step removes some of the bitterness.)

Step 3

In a medium bowl, combine the onion, garlic, chile, capers, avocado, salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the lime juice. Toss together gently. Add the tuna to the bowl.

Step 4

Stir together the remaining lime juice and the olive oil. Pour over the tuna and toss the mixture together. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes, stirring gently from time to time.

Step 5

Just before serving, add the cilantro and toss. Taste and adjust seasonings. Line salad plates with salad greens, spoon the ceviche on top, and serve.

Serves 4 to 6 — Recipe from cooking.nytimes.com