Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club

Spanakopita “Cigars”

Packaged spanakopita, often in canape-sized shapes, can taste rather bland. With a package of frozen phyllo (or fresh if you live near a Greek pastry shop!), you can make this wonderful dish with layers of flavor—the sweetness of the caramelized onions, pine nuts, and currants, the freshness of the parsley and dill, and the zest of the cheeses—all enhanced by the richness of fresh-pressed olive oil. If you have the time, you can steam and chop fresh spinach, but you’ll need a very big volume to achieve two pounds. Frozen is easier to work with—allow it to defrost overnight in the fridge along with the phyllo. This recipe also includes bulgur, a tasty whole grain. You can roll the dough and filling into many different shapes. Long logs, or cigars, are easy to roll up and the shape is less likely to tear the delicate phyllo. Enjoy the process of working with phyllo—it’s easy once you get the hang of it…if you allow yourself time to work at a comfortable pace.

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds frozen leaf spinach, defrosted
  • 1/3 cup pine nuts
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 pound sweet onions, preferably Vidalia, coarsely chopped 
  • 1/2 cup uncooked bulgur
  • 1 cup very finely chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
  • 1/2 cup other assorted fresh herbs, like oregano, dill, and spearmint
  • 1/3 cup dried tiny currants, such as Zante, or chopped golden raisins
  • 8-ounce block of fresh feta, preferably from Greece
  • 1/2 cup ricotta
  • Coarse sea salt, to taste
  • Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 3 large eggs
  • 16-ounce package frozen phyllo, defrosted
  • 1 tablespoon each white and black sesame seeds

Directions

Step 1

Use your hands to squeeze and discard as much excess liquid from the spinach as you can, then place it in a large colander lined with paper towels over a bowl to continue draining. 

Step 2

Heat a large frying pan and, when hot, toast the pine nuts for just a minute or two to bring out their flavor; watch carefully because they can easily burn. Transfer the nuts to a small dish and set aside. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil to the hot pan, then the onions, and cook on low heat for about 20 minutes, stirring often, until the onions are very soft. While they’re cooking, make the bulgur in a small saucepan according to package directions; when done, there should be no water left in the pan.  

Step 3

Squeeze any remaining liquid from the spinach and transfer it to a large bowl. Add the pine nuts, onions, bulgur, chopped herbs, and currants or raisins. Finely crumble the feta and add it in along with the ricotta; mix thoroughly. Taste and season with salt and pepper as desired—it may already taste salty enough from the feta. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the eggs, reserving about 1/4 cup. Work the beaten eggs into the spinach mixture. 

Step 4

Preheat your oven to 375°F. Line a rimmed sheet pan with parchment paper and set it to one side. Prep the section of countertop where you’ll work with a sheet of parchment paper (see “Quick Kitchen Nugget” in Newsletter #176 for details). Pour olive oil into a small bowl.

Step 5

Gently open the phyllo package and unroll the dough onto another rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment paper; immediately cover it with a dry dish towel topped by a damp dish towel. When you’re ready to start, quickly remove one sheet of phyllo and place it on the parchment in front of you. Use the tips of a pastry brush to dab some olive oil across the surface—you don’t need to be too thorough since you’ll be adding more oil with each sheet. Top with another phyllo sheet and dab again, placing the oil on areas where you can see that there’s no oil on the first sheet. Repeat with a third sheet of phyllo. 

Step 6

Scoop out a generous half-cup of filling and use your fingers to spread it out in a line across the long end of the dough closest to you, 1 inch in from the edge and from the two short sides. Roll up the phyllo just enough to cover the filling, fold in the outer ends, dab on more oil, and roll up the rest of the way, adding a final dab of oil before transferring the cigar with a bench scraper or wide offset spatula to the parchment-lined sheet pan; cover it with another clean towel. 

Step 7

Repeat the process with the rest of the filling and phyllo. Once you’ve rolled all the cigars, remove the towel and use the pastry brush to brush them with the reserved egg, then sprinkle on the sesame seeds. 

Step 8

Bake for 30 to 40 minutes until the phyllo crisps and browns.  

Yields 12 cigars

Brunch Fruit Salad with Honey-Lime-Mint Vinaigrette

For a bright brunch dish, serve the dressed fruit salad over thick Greek yogurt or Icelandic skyr.

Ingredients

  • 4 cups mixed fruit, such as chunks of melon and mango, sliced strawberries, red grapes, blueberries, and pineapple cubes
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons honey, preferably orange blossom
  • Zest and juice of 1 medium lime 
  • 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh spearmint or peppermint leaves
  • 1 tablespoon calamansi or other citrus-based vinegar (optional)

Directions

Place the fruit in a large mixing bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, honey, lime juice and zest, mint, and optional vinegar. Pour the dressing over the fruit and toss gently. Allow to macerate for 30 minutes. Toss again before serving.

Serves 6

Roasted Parmesean Carrots

This might be my new favorite way to eat carrots, which, like most vegetables, grow huge in Central Chile’s fertile soil. Marinated in olive oil and spices, then coated in freshly grated Parmesan cheese, the carrots are roasted until tender. They’re great with chicken, pork, or lamb.

Ingredients

  • 8 large carrots, peeled and trimmed
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • Coarse salt (kosher or sea)
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan, or more as needed
  • 2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Directions

Step 1

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Slice each carrot lengthwise, then into 2-inch planks. Place in a large bowl and drizzle with olive oil. Toss to coat the carrots thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper, then toss with the cheese.

Step 2

Tip the carrots onto a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Arrange them in a single layer, flat sides down. Sprinkle with any cheese remaining in the bowl. Roast the carrots until tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Arrange on a platter, flat sides up. Sprinkle with the parsley and serve.

Serves 4 to 6

Wilted Spinach Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette

Fast-forward 50 years from wilted spinach salad’s debut to this version that offers all the benefits of olive oil in the dressing and the prep. Rather than bothering with croutons, try toasted slices of whole-grain bread for its hearty appeal.

Ingredients

For the vinaigrette:

  • 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, plus more to taste
  • 1 tablespoon shallot, peeled and finely chopped
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme, chopped
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

For the salad:

  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 small red onion, chopped 
  • 4 ounces white or cremini mushrooms, thickly sliced 
  • 8 ounces baby spinach, rinsed and patted dry
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced 
  • 2 medium- or hard-boiled eggs (your preference) quartered
  • 1 ounce hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
  • Optional: 2 slices whole grain bread, toasted and brushed with olive oil

Directions

Step 1

Make the vinaigrette: In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the vinegar, shallot, and thyme. Gradually whisk in the olive oil until incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Step 2

Heat a large frying pan or wok over medium heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the red onions; sauté over medium heat until soft. Push them to the outside of the pan and add the mushrooms in one layer; cook until the edges have browned, then flip and brown on the other side. Transfer the vegetables to a bowl. 

Step 3

Add the last tablespoon of olive oil to the hot pan along with the garlic and the spinach, adding the spinach by handfuls—as one batch starts to wilt, push it to the side and add another, stirring quickly. It should only take 2-3 minutes to do it all. 

Step 4

Arrange the spinach in two large bowls and top with equal amounts of onions, mushrooms, eggs, and hazelnuts. Drizzle with the vinaigrette. If desired, add a slice of toast to one side of each bowl.

Makes 2 servings