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Chicken Noodle Soup

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

Often called Jewish penicillin, homemade chicken soup is soothing whether you’re feeling under the weather or just want to shake off winter’s chill. This recipe yields at least 4 quarts of stock and most of the fixings for a chicken soup dinner—that’s why I use a whole bird and not just parts.

Ingredients

  • 2 pounds large carrots, trimmed, peeled, and cut into large chunks
  • 6 large celery stalks, trimmed and cut into chunks
  • 1 large onion, peeled and quartered
  • 4 parsnips, trimmed, peeled, and cut into large chunks
  • 4 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs 
  • 4 fresh dill sprigs
  • 1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
  • 20 black peppercorns
  • One 4- or 5-pound chicken, quartered
  • One 12-ounce bag of egg noodles
  • Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

Directions

Step 1

Place the vegetables and herbs in a large stockpot and add water to cover them by about 4 inches. Add the salt and peppercorns and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pot with a lid, and cook at a low boil for 2 hours. 

Step 2

Add the chicken and cook for another 2 hours with the lid slightly ajar. The chicken should readily fall off the bones when done.

Step 3

Use tongs to transfer the carrots, parsnips, celery, and chicken to a large bowl; let cool slightly. Remove and discard the chicken skin and bones. Set the meat and vegetables aside. 

Step 4

Strain the broth to remove the herbs, any bits of onion, and peppercorns. Return 8 cups to the stockpot and keep warm. Let the rest cool to room temperature.

Step 5

Cook the egg noodles according to package directions. When ready, strain and divide among 6 soup bowls. Add some chicken and vegetables and ladle in broth. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

Step 6

To store the rest of the stock: Ladle the room-temperature broth into freezer-safe containers. See Quick Kitchen Nugget in my weekly newsletter for removing fat if desired. Keep what you’ll use during the coming 7 to 10 days in the fridge and freeze the rest, labeling each lid with the contents and date.

Yields 6 soup servings plus 6 to 8 quarts of stock

Lobster Risotto

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

A delicious and festive dish, this can be made quite easily with store-bought lobster broth and a pound of cooked lobster meat. I’m also including directions for making it from scratch, if you prefer, simplified by using only tails. You can get even more flavor from two whole lobsters—after steaming, remove all the claw and tail meat, then use all the shells, legs included, for the stock.

Ingredients

For Homemade Lobster Stock:

  • 4 small (4-ounce) or 2 large (8-ounce) lobster tails, defrosted if frozen
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 celery stalks, trimmed and diced
  • 2 carrots, peeled and diced
  • 1 large onion, peeled and diced
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1/2 teaspoon sweet paprika, such as Heirloom Sweet Paprika
  • 2 bay leaves

For the Risotto:

  • 3 or 4 threads saffron
  • 1/2 cup dry vermouth
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
  • 2 large shallots, minced
  • 1-1/2 cups short grain risotto rice, such as carnaroli, vialone nano, or arborio
  • Reserved homemade lobster stock or 4 cups best-quality store-bought stock
  • Reserved lobster meat or 8 (or more) ounces store-bought lobster meat
  • 3/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided use
  • Freshly ground black pepper to taste
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Directions

Step 1

To make the stock: Steam the lobster tails on a rack over simmering water in a large covered pot until they turn a bright red-orange, about 8 minutes. Use tongs to transfer them to a cutting board, then pour the cooking liquid into a 4-cup heatproof measuring cup; if needed, add enough water to make 4 cups.

Step 2

Use kitchen shears to cut through the underside of the shells and remove the tail meat. Slice into 1-inch medallions, place in a dish, and cover; set aside.

Step 3

Heat a large skillet or Dutch oven. When hot, add the olive oil, lobster shells, and all the vegetables. Sauté until the vegetables soften, stirring frequently. Add the tomato paste to the center of the pan and cook it until it darkens in color. Carefully whisk in the reserved liquid, plus another 2 cups of water, the paprika, and the bay leaves. 

Step 4

Bring to a boil, then simmer for an hour. Strain the broth into a clean saucepan, pressing down on the vegetables to extract all the liquid. You should have 4 cups; if not, add enough water to make that amount.

Step 5

To make the risotto: Soften the saffron in the vermouth; set aside. Bring the lobster stock to a low simmer in a medium saucepan. Heat a heavy sauté pan or Dutch oven over medium heat. When hot, add the olive oil and shallots, sautéing them until soft, but don’t let them brown. Add the rice to the pan and stir to thoroughly coat with the oil. Cook until the rice is slightly translucent, about 7 to 10 minutes, stirring often.

Step 6

Add the vermouth-saffron mix to the pan and cook until the liquid has nearly evaporated. Ladle 1/2 cup of the hot stock into the rice mixture and stir continuously. When the liquid is almost completely absorbed, stir in another 1/2 cup of hot stock. Repeat until the rice is creamy yet al dente, about 25 minutes (you may not need all the stock). 

Step 7

Stir in 1/2 cup of the Parmigiano-Reggiano and the lobster medallions. If the risotto is too thick, stir in any remaining stock or water, 1/4 cup at a time. Season to taste—the risotto might taste salty enough from the cheese but will benefit from a few twists of a pepper grinder. Serve immediately, topping each portion with a drizzle of olive oil and some chives and passing the rest of the cheese on the side.

Yields 4 servings

Tiella Barese

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

Tiella, named for the ceramic cookware this dish is traditionally baked in, consists of layers of potatoes, mussels, and rice. This version was inspired by the way it’s made in Bari, the vibrant city on the Adriatic Sea. Tiella is said to have originated during Spanish rule in the 16th century, which explains why it’s more paella than risotto. Because of the saltiness of the mussel broth and the cheese, I haven’t added any extra salt. Note: Ask your fishmonger for wild mature mussels, which are meaty and juicy.

Ingredients

  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, most stems removed
  • 1 1/2 pounds Yukon or large red potatoes, unpeeled
  • 1 large onion, about 12 ounces
  • 1 pound cherry tomatoes
  • 2 1/2 pounds fresh mussels
  • 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, more for drizzling
  • 8 ounces Carnaroli or Arborio rice, about 1 1/4 cups, uncooked
  • 6 ounces Pecorino Romano, freshly grated
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Step 1

Finely mince the parsley and garlic by hand or in a small food processor; set aside.

Step 2

Using a mandoline, the slicing side of a box grater, or your food processor’s 4mm slicing blade, slice the potatoes into 1/8-inch slices. Repeat with the onion. Halve the cherry tomatoes (if they’re large, quarter them).

Step 3

Pick over the mussels and throw out any that don’t stay closed or have a broken shell. Rinse the rest under cold water and pull off any beards. Heat a large frying pan or stockpot over medium-high heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the mussels in one layer (work in batches if needed). Cover (a see-through lid is best) and cook until the mussels start to open, between 3 and 5 minutes. Use tongs to transfer them one at a time to a large bowl, leaving as much of their liquid as possible in the pan. Throw out any mussels that don’t open.

Step 4

Leave the mussels on the shell half they’re still attached to and remove and throw out the other halves, placing the mussels into another bowl or a platter as you work. Drizzle the mussels with 2 tablespoons olive oil and cover with a plate or clean dishtowel so they’ll stay moist.

Step 5

Place the liquid from the pan into a 4-cup measuring cup. If it looks sandy, drain it into the cup through a strainer lined with cheesecloth. Add in any liquid that collected when you were separating the mussels; set aside.

Step 6

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil into a round baking dish 3 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter, or a 13×9 rectangular baking dish. Start layering the ingredients: Place
a layer of potatoes on the bottom of the baking dish, then top with half the onions. Scatter on half of the cherry tomatoes and half the garlic-parsley mix, a third of the grated cheese, and half the black pepper. Carefully nestle in the mussels on their half shells, meat facing up. If any liquid collected while the mussels were resting, add it to contents of the measuring cup; then add enough water to make
3 full cups.

Step 7

Top the mussels with an even layer of rice. Scatter on the remaining cherry tomatoes, onions, garlic-parsley mix, and black pepper. Make a top “crust” with the rest of the potatoes, placing them in an overlapping pattern to seal in the other ingredients. Carefully pour the mussel liquid down one side
of the dish or in one corner if your baking dish
is a rectangle. You may not need all the liquid: It should just barely reach—not cover—the top layer of potatoes (if you don’t have enough liquid, add more water). Sprinkle on the remaining cheese and drizzle on the final 2 tablespoons olive oil.

Step 8

Cover with a tight-fitting lid or foil and bake for 50 to 60 minutes. Remove the cover or foil and taste a few grains of rice. If not yet al dente, return to the oven for 15 minutes more, then test again. When the rice is just about cooked, take off the lid or foil and return the dish to the oven for another 15 minutes or until the rice is fully tender, the liquid has evaporated, and the top layer of potatoes is golden and crispy. If you’d like it more golden, place under the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes, watching carefully.

Step 9

Out of the oven, let the tiella rest for at least 30 minutes for the flavors to meld. Use an oversized spatula to dish out servings. While you can eat it with a fork, feel free to pick up the mussel shells and lap up their contents.

Serves 8

Creamy Mushroom Ragoût

Posted on by The Olive Oil Hunter

This earthy medley is easy and very versatile. Serve it over pasta, polenta, or rice, or stir it into a flavorful risotto. Replace the cream with vegetable broth for a vegan version.

Ingredients

  • 1 cup dried porcini mushrooms
  • 2 cups boiling homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken or vegetable broth
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 garlic cloves, minced
  • 2 pounds mixed mushrooms (cultivated and wild), cleaned, trimmed, and chopped, quartered, or sliced
  • Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 1/3 cup heavy cream

Directions

Step 1

Place the porcini mushrooms in a heatproof container (such as a Pyrex bowl) and let them steep in the broth for at least 30 minutes, or until softened. Drain in a disposable coffee filter (you may have to do this in batches), reserving the broth. Finely chop the soaked mushrooms.

Step 2

Heat a large deep saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When hot, add the olive oil and onions; cook until soft, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the fresh mushrooms and cook until they’ve browned and released their liquid, stirring occasionally. Stir in the reconstituted porcinis. Add the soaking liquid and thyme and simmer over medium heat until the mushrooms are very tender and the liquid has reduced by half. Remove the thyme, stir in the Worcestershire sauce and cream, and warm over medium heat for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Serves 4