This dish comes together in short order yet makes for an elegant presentation. The technique also lends itself to shrimp (if you make that swap, use one pound of peeled shrimp).
Ingredients
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon garlic powder
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 pound dry sea scallops
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup white wine or clam juice
2 tablespoons butter
2 cups cooked farro
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Directions
Step 1
Mix the onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, salt, and pepper in a pie plate. Heat a large skillet. While the pan is heating, pat the scallops with a paper towel and dredge in the spice mixture. When the pan is ready, add the olive oil and the scallops. Sear the scallops until browned and crispy on the edges, about two minutes on each side, then transfer them to a dish.
Step 2
Add the minced garlic to the pan and sauté until soft, about 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the wine or clam juice and add the butter, swirling it until it melts into the pan juices. Add the cooked farro and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the parsley. Mound equal amounts of the farro on 4 plates and add equal amounts of scallops.
Delivered Fresh from the Southern Hemisphere A Trio of Australia’s Finest Extra Virgin Olive Oils Ready to Enhance Autumnal Meals and Celebrations
Meticulously chosen by your Olive Oil Hunter, working hand in hand with the country’s leading artisanal producers.
Rich in the polyphenols that impart extra virgin olive oil’s unique depth of flavor and hold the secret to so many of its health benefits.
Rushed to the US by jet to maximize freshness and certified to be 100 percent extra virgin olive oil by an independent lab.
Come with me to the magical land Down Under! I make the journey to Australia at this time every year to hunt for the freshest olive oil for Club members. Oz has a dynamic New World olive culture with the opposite harvest season from the Mediterranean. Though I’ve been visiting for more than 20 years, I remain fascinated by the sights, sounds, and, of course, the aromas and tastes I encounter. As you savor each of the selections in this quarter’s trio, know that my Merry Band of Tasters and I captured the essence of Oz in these three exquisite blends.
First Stop: Melbourne
Home base for my visits is the enchanting capital of Victoria, the southeastern state with beautiful topographic variety—picturesque coastlines, alpine landscapes, and sandy deserts. The city of Melbourne is a vibrant melting pot of cultures, with impressive Italian and Asian contingents, not to mention the largest Greek community outside of Greece. Reconnecting with our producers who are also dear friends is especially fun, because we often do so around convivial tables at amazing restaurants—meals that inspired the recipes in this Pressing Report, so you, too, can savor the flavors of this country.
John and Marjan Symington of Oasis joined me and my Merry Band of Tasters as we immersed ourselves in the hustle and bustle of the Queen Victoria Market, with its wealth of vegetable and fruit merchants and cheese and fishmongers. At a stand with Australian olives—but no Australian olive oil—Marjan, president of the Goulburn Strathbogie Olive Oil Association, immediately struck up a conversation with the proprietor, suggesting he add it to his offerings ASAP!
We work hard and we play hard! Thank you to (counterclockwise from me) Carmelo Tramontana, Davide Bruno, and Arturo Morara, the latest Italian olive oil expert to join the dedicated team at Kyneton, for putting me in the driver’s seat of this vintage tractor and for the level of dedication that makes it possible to produce the highest quality olive oil. (Read more about the team behind this quarter’s bold selection below.)
With Mick Labbozzetta, the esteemed estate manager at Kyneton, we returned to Brunetti’s on Lygon Street, my favorite “Little Italy” neighborhood on the planet, for delicious pastries and rich coffee. When we passed a shop dedicated to cappuccino makers, we remarked at how the coffee culture in Australia has exploded—just a decade or so ago, it was barely on the radar (by contrast, sweets, as you’ll see in the dessert section of this report’s recipes, have always been top of mind!).
With Melissa Wong, my trusted Aussie advisor, food authority, and Michelin-star restauranteur, we discovered our new favorite Asian restaurant, Old Beijing, and ate our fill of Peking duck, stir fries, soup dumplings, and vibrant Chinese greens. We also indulged in local seafood at the Stokehouse in the St. Kilda Beach section of Melbourne, near Melissa’s home, a meal that starred crayfish with shellfish bisque sauce, yellowfin tuna with tomato dressing, and perfectly grilled King George whiting.
Shortages Span the Globe
While the main event of every visit to Oz is the grand tasting Melissa organizes for us to choose oils and create blends for you, my discerning Club member, that was just the beginning of what turned out to be a seven-day marathon of tastings to perfect our selections.
When I’m in Australia, I always want to check in with Leandro Ravetti, one of the world’s most respected olive authorities, to get his insights into the current season and, most important, his input on the olive oils I’m considering. Longtime friend of the club, Leandro is a master miller who champions the highest standards. He confirmed that the worldwide olive shortage had made its way around the globe and that production at many Aussie olive oil farms was down about 45 percent this season. As we saw in Europe, this has led some producers to leave their fruit to ripen until the olives are black and full of low-quality oil, in contrast to our collaborators, who harvest during the magic window—just the right moment, when the fruit is still green and at the pinnacle of flavor and health benefits. (Mass-market producers also rely on heat in the extraction process for a higher yet inferior-tasting yield.)
Cheers from Down Under! There are few things more exciting to your Olive Oil Hunter than trying possible blends of this season’s harvest with Leandro Ravetti, one of my most trusted EVOO authorities. The rest of the world stops once we sit down, immerse ourselves in the aromas and tastes, and share thoughts on how slight changes in the balance of olive oil varieties will allow each blend to shine and increase Club members’ enjoyment of this quarter’s trio.
“As a counterpoint to Europe, which has experienced three dry years in a row, we had three wet years in a row,” Leandro explained. While he expects conditions to soon normalize, he’s always thinking ahead to avoid future problems. An ongoing concern centers on frost, which can harm the tiny buds as they start to form. “In countries in the Southern Hemisphere, where winters are not normally very wet, like Australia, the frost risk in early spring is high,” he said.
In some areas, there can be frost at ground level while the air just above, at five to fifteen meters, is warmer. Leandro’s ingenious solution is to use special fans that draw in the warmer air to raise the ground temperature and protect the buds that will become olives. I admire the way Leandro shares his expertise with fellow producers and the deep camaraderie they enjoy—there’s no sense of one-up-manship in this country. I also value how generous Leandro is with his time when I visit, despite his having one of the most demanding schedules I’ve ever seen.
Our Olive Oil Odyssey
The magic window for harvesting was somewhat unusual this year, and certain varieties were staying green on the trees for weeks. This led to numerous tasting rounds—challenging and fun at the same time. To visit the farms we planned to work with—Oasis, Nullamunjie, and Kyneton—we embarked on a wide, 700-mile loop around Melbourne. Being right at the mills is like being a kid in a candy store, indulging in all the sweets with abandon! It’s always pure joy to spend time with the millers, sample each farm’s distinctive olive oils, and work together to perfect our blends. I invite you to taste the fruits of our labor and to catch up with our chosen producers in the pages that follow.
Happy drizzling!
T. J. Robinson The Olive Oil Hunter®
This Quarter’s First Selection
Producer: Oasis Olives, Kialla, Goulburn Valley, Victoria, Australia 2024
Olive Varieties: Picual, Coratina
Flavor Profile: Mild
We’re all connected to our smartphones, but during my time with John and Marjan Symington, John could barely put his down—his cell rarely stopped ringing with people looking for olive oil from his glorious farms. “Because there’s so little olive oil to go around this season, folks like us that did have olives to produce oil are very busy,” John said candidly. “We’ve got quite a good crop in Kialla—it’s been a good season for us.”
Oasis Olives, the venture he started as a retirement passion project, seems to be keeping John busier than he was during his successful career in information technology. To say that he and Marjan have come a long way in the 14 years since they bought their first groves—on a ramshackle farm with much neglected trees—is an understatement. They recently replanted 40 hectares from the latest farm they acquired, a parcel adjacent to theirs, because a lot of those trees were so neglected. My Merry Band of Tasters and I are already looking forward to the fruit the new trees will bear.
Why is Oasis a perennial award winner? “The biggest factor that can impact the flavor profiles of olive oils is the climate,” John said. “Kialla is an environment where the trees have a very easy life in general, whereas if you go more toward South Australia, it’s a much drier climate. In other areas, where it’s very wet, the oils tend to be more washed out. This year Mother Nature gave us reasonably mild temperatures right through the growing season. We had a dry summer and dry autumn too.” Credit also goes to John and Marjan’s tenacity and their determination to produce olive oils that discerning palates, including our Club members, will love. That their kids are getting more involved in the operation brings the Symingtons a double dose of bliss.
With farms in Australia and Peru, Marjan and John Symington (with me at the Queen Victoria Market) are immersed in the world of EVOO. I admire the way they share their knowledge, assist other growers in Australia, give young people from around the world the chance to experience working on their farms, and selflessly help the Club make our Australian olive oil hunt a success each year, whether or not their oils are in the chosen trio.
While in Kialla, I had a chance to catch up with Scott Sanders, an international olive oil consultant who joined Oasis in 2016 and quickly became the farm manager. Scott grew up on his own family’s farm in northwest New South Wales and developed a deep love of the land. At the young age of 20, he became fascinated with the world of olive oil and “traveled to Italy and Spain to learn the art of olive oil making,” he recounted. Scott and the Symingtons share a commitment to sustainability—sheep are used to control weeds, olive pomace (what’s left of the olive flesh after milling) is a natural fertilizer for the land, and even the olive pits get a second life as a fuel source.
Because Scott felt that some varietals had it a little too easy this year, he decided to cut the irrigation to the Picual and the Coratina trees destined to be contenders for the Club in order to stress them and, in turn, bump up the polyphenols along with the flavor and aroma. “Stressing the trees also facilitates harvesting. If the trees are too ‘happy,’ they don’t want to let the fruit go,” he explained.
“Scott’s breadth of experience is incredible—he’s worked at olive mills from Australia to Spain to California,” John said. “Scott has seen a lot of different environments, a lot of different olives, so there’s not much that comes up that’s new to him.” He’s also been imparting his wisdom to Antonio and Domenico, the Italian millers who, for the past three harvests, have flown in from Puglia to run the mill. And what an olive oil this talented Oasis team has made exclusively for the Club. For the last few years, I’ve been waiting for an oil that could match the perfect—and elusive— Picual that John crafted for us many years ago. Our mild selection is early-harvest Picual at its best. Enhanced with a touch of Coratina, it hits the mark.
Scott Sanders has a depth of olive knowledge that goes beyond his years—with 20 years of experience under his belt, nearly half his life has been devoted to producing the highest-quality olive oils. He manages Oasis, with all its microclimates, and knows that world-class olive oils begin on the tree. Very aware of your Olive Oil Hunter’s obsession with super high quality, Scott is one of our most trusted partners.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
This is a highly aromatic blend of Picual and Coratina with amazing flair. The distinctive aromas of grass, tomato leaf, and banana are layered with hints of pear, apple, almond, oregano, sweet basil, baby lettuces, white pepper, and wheatgrass. On the palate, we noted the sweetness of dried tropical fruits and Sungold cherry tomatoes, along with lemon, hazelnut, basil, mixed spring lettuces, and the bitterness and spiciness of baby arugula. Luxurious in the mouth, it has a long, spicy finish.
You’ll love it for mild vinaigrettes, salads with fruits, tomato bruschetta, egg dishes, mild cheeses like brie and goat, yogurt and granola breakfast bowls, nutty banana bread* and muffins, chicken and leek pie, mild fin fish, crispy potatoes, pastas with fresh tomato-based sauces, glazed carrots, squash and pumpkin dishes, smoothies, and tiramisù.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
This Quarter’s Second Selection
Producer: Nullamunjie Blend, Tongio, Victoria, Australia 2024
The effervescent and unstoppable Annie Paterson has owned, developed, and run the Nullamunjie farm, with its olive groves, vegetable garden, seasonal café, and sheep, since 1998. Born and reared in the Australian ranch country, as a young woman Annie traveled to Greece, where she was mesmerized by the silvery-leafed olive trees she glimpsed through the tour bus window. She dreamt of growing olives in Australia, with its similar climate. Decades later, after she and her husband had raised their four children, Annie acquired land at the foot of Mount Stalwell, in East Gippsland, with the Tambo River running through it, and made her dream a reality.
She is one of the original wave of entrepreneurs who put ultra-premium Aussie olive oil on the map—and, as the Down Under olive oil scene changes, Annie, a true pioneer, remains both stalwart and flexible, maintaining impeccable standards while incorporating innovative techniques to protect her trees and the natural world around them.
To deter cockatoos and other birds from eating olives off the trees, Annie has debuted a new sound cannon, which her crew demonstrated for me with a deep “FOOM!” As we all reflected, though, Annie is such a softie that she’ll say to an individual bird, “Oh, but I like you, you can stay.”
Speaking of staying, Annie made me laugh so hard as she described a wombat that has recently decided to live down the hill from her home. The furry, dog-sized marsupial has carved out a massive burrow beneath an old olive tree—“A cave, a cave it was; I could almost walk into it without crouching down,” exclaimed Annie—with the tree’s roots hanging down “like stalactites.” No word whether Annie is going to charge him rent.
In 2023, Annie purchased the neighboring farm, historically named Tongio Station—“The big old properties in Australia used to be called stations,” she explains—to give Nullamunjie an additional 800 acres. This season, her team planted close to 1,200 baby trees. I couldn’t wait to see them.
Operations manager Riley Nivens and I survey the Nullamunjie groves from the banks of the Tambo River. Nullamunjie’s microclimates range from arid to lush, protected from snow by Mt. Stalwell. This unique terroir gives the Nullumunjie oil its special, recognizable character—and many of Australia’s native animals, kangaroos to cockatoos, make their home on this land. (A non-native cow can be seen grazing between the olive trees.)
On our way to the farm, about four hours from Melbourne, my Merry Band of Tasters and I stopped at Bruthen Bakery to pick up goodies for the team. We brought boxes of vanilla slices and meat pies, including my favorite, a succulent steak-and-pepper pie—essentially pastry-wrapped pot roast.
Upon our arrival, operations manager Riley Nivens hopped into his 4×4 to take us around the new groves as we munched on pastries. The baby trees were almost invisible against the hills behind them, so tiny, so fragile—barely the size of corn stalks. Solar panels, elegantly arranged in a nearby clearing, captured energy from the sun to run the irrigation pumps. These baby trees won’t be mature enough to produce oil for several years, so, right now, the main concern is keeping them vertical. In spite of an electric fence, deer and kangaroos bound out of the surrounding hills and flatten the infant saplings in their path. On a daily basis, Riley inspects the rows and gingerly repositions or replants any trampled trees.
“The wonder that is Riley,” Annie praised, “he saved us all.” She added, in the style of an auto-racing commentator: “He continues to impress.” Annie alluded to the curveball that Mother Nature chucked at Nullamunjie during the growing season: torrential rainfall that knocked the blossoms off the Frantoio trees, which meant no olives. Thankfully, the other varietals—Correggiola, Leccino, Coratina, Pendolino—flowered a few weeks later and benefited from the rain.
Annie’s olives are harvested and pressed together as a “farm blend,” always recognizable as Nullamunjie olive oil, even as the flavor profile takes on different nuances and dimensions from year to year. The unique terroir gives Nullamunjie its special character and soul.
One of the rewards of long-term relationships with producers is getting to know the teams—since 2009, I’ve seen some of the Nullamunjie guys retire, and I’ve known the “newbies” for a few years. Their kindness, dedication, and mellifluous accents are unrivaled. Left to right: Jed Purcell, grove hand and morale booster; Riley Nivens, operations manager; myself; Tom Morgan (retired but came to say hello); and Tjeerd Beliën, charter member of our Merry Band of Tasters and one of my oldest friends.
Coratina comes to the forefront in this blend, providing backbone and a hint of bitterness, indicating health-promoting polyphenols, to create a beautifully harmonious and food-friendly oil. When I asked Annie (as I always do) for her latest, greatest recipe using olive oil, she said, “I still think the best way to use olive oil is to put it on a freshly grilled steak.” We concurred that, ideally, this would be a grass-fed steak, with a little extra fat for flavor, and fresh-pressed Nullamunjie oil drizzled generously over the meat as it comes off the grill. Mmmmmmm. I hope you’ll take our recommendation and also come up with your own!
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
The fresh aromas of green grass, Belgian endive, Tuscan kale, celery, and fennel perfume this blend of Italian varietals. There are notes of oregano, rosemary, wild mint, green apple, almond, walnut, pine nut, and lemon zest. We tasted radicchio, Swiss chard, baby spinach, walnut skin, vanilla, rosemary, the astringency of green tea and lime zest, and the persistent spiciness of black peppercorns.
It will elevate crusty breads, shaved fennel and citrus salad, cheeses, and charcuterie boards. It will enhance lamb kebabs with mixed grilled vegetables,* pot roast, roasted turkey, prawn and pork fried rice, bouillabaisse, pastas with pesto, pizza, focaccia, barley and farro, lentils, white beans and other legumes, Brussels sprouts, cabbage or cauliflower steaks, vanilla ice cream, sautéed apples, lamingtons, and other desserts with chocolate.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
This Quarter’s Third Selection
Producer: Kyneton Olive Oil, Bylands Estate, Victoria, Australia 2024
I first visited Kyneton, about an hour’s drive north of Melbourne, in 2009. It’s a beautiful place—I especially love the lake surrounded by palm trees. I remember when, the next year, their state-of-the-art Pieralisi mill was installed. Ever since, it’s been an upward trajectory, as Kyneton’s premier oils have won multiple awards in Australia and abroad. Kyneton is always poised to upgrade the mill and other equipment, but the most recent enhancements added to the beauty of the landscape: a newly built gazebo, wood-fired oven, and fire pit. My only regret was not arriving one day sooner. I was dismayed to learn I’d just missed homemade porchetta sandwiches—dang!
Food—including olive oil, of course—is one of the things estate manager Mick Labbozzetta and I have bonded over. For years, Mick, always wearing his trademark newsboy cap, has introduced me, one by one, to his favorite salumerias, formaggerias, pizzerias, and gelaterias, a reflection of Australia’s large Italian population. Naturally, we bring a bottle of fresh-pressed olive oil to drizzle everywhere we go. (I don’t consider an oil properly vetted unless I’ve paired it with a variety of foods. I urge you to do the same, dear Club member!)
Mick’s love of Italian delights comes naturally. His father was born in Calabria, Italy, and was among a large wave of Italian immigrants who arrived on the Australian continent in the mid-twentieth century. In an ode to his homeland, Papa planted about 20 olive trees on the family’s property. Born in this country and raised in Adelaide, Mick speaks fluent Italian thanks to his dad, whose birthplace Mick will be visiting this fall. Family means the world to Mick, and, though he has no intention of retiring, all his improvements at Kyneton, which include building his impressive team, are with his grandchildren in mind, to bring them into this very special world.
Back on the farm, I surprised the crew of Davide, Carmelo, and Arturo with goodies from one of my favorite Italian food shops…and they surprised me with some ultra-fresh olive oil from the mill to enhance our little feast. They welcomed the break from their long workday—an olive harvest and milling demand intensive labor. They know how much I appreciate their efforts, and I always convey that same appreciation from Club members as well.
As a boy, Mick picked the olives from his dad’s trees. The olives were then pressed by a neighbor. Today, the Kyneton mill is trusted to press the olives of local farmers. Testament to Kyneton’s skills and passion for olive cultivation, the team recently took over the management of a nearby olive grove of 14,000 trees, primarily Koroneiki and Frantoio. The owner would bring his olives for pressing, but the yield didn’t match the size of the grove—indicating that the trees needed tending. These are very small trees, Mick told me, that will undoubtedly thrive from the TLC that the Kyneton team will lavish on them—my mouth is already watering in anticipation!
Mick is quick to deflect praise for the estate’s successes to his team, headed by native Calabrian Carmelo Tramontana and the peripatetic Davide Bruno, a master miller who travels from Liguria each year to oversee the harvest. This year, they were joined for the first time by Arturo Morara, another—you guessed it—Italian. With experience working at Italian mills, Arturo explained to me that he had been looking for an opportunity to hone his talents on an Australian olive farm during the harvest, in effect doubling the amount of experience he was gaining each year. Kyneton was a natural fit. I’m convinced this intersection of New and Old World techniques and sensibilities makes Kyneton oils special. “Australian made, Italian heritage” is the company’s very apt motto. The addition of a team member did not manage to reduce anyone’s hours—20-hour days are still the norm during the harvest to create the exquisite olive oils for which the farm is known.
Whether I meet Mick at the mill or here, in the Little Italy section of Melbourne, he is always looking stylish—it must be his Italian heritage! But what impresses me the most is the attention to detail that he brings to crafting ultra-premium olive oil. Even with all the awards Kyneton has garnered, Mick is never completely satisfied. His goal, and mine, is to craft olive oils you will enjoy even more with each harvest.
My Merry Band of Tasters and I had a scandalously good time perfecting the blend I’ve selected for you, primarily because we had so many great options to work with this year—small batches of different varietals harvested at different times and blended in different proportions, all fresh from the mill. Davide and his team constantly monitored the trees, identifying which olives were at their peak. Davide has a sixth sense about these drupes, and, on occasion, his intuition even overrides the lab’s ripeness analyses. After five years of collaboration, he understands what flavor and aroma profiles I want for my Club members and in my own kitchen. I can’t wait for you to taste this bold liquid gold.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
A vibrant blend of Aussie-grown Italian varietals, it entices with aromas of kale, arugula, fennel, chopped culinary herbs, and hazelnut, and hints of green bell pepper, lime zest, green peppercorns, and tomato vine. We tasted fennel, artichoke, Belgian endive, dried banana, green walnut, parsley, thyme, dried chiles, the freshness of wild mint and citrus peel, and the spiciness and bitterness of watercress.
This oil will enhance aged and blue cheeses, Caesar salad, Asian mushroom salad with ginger tamari vinaigrette,* grilled steaks and chops, apricot chicken, pan-seared fish steaks with caramelized fennel, sardines, curries, Tex-Mex chili, pasta Bolognese, stuffed peppers, green beans, kale dishes, holiday stuffings, bok choy and Chinese broccoli, black beans, hearty soups and stews, carrot cake, and nut-based desserts.
*See the recipe section for bolded dishes.
Olive Oil and Health
How EVOO Combats Heart Disease
Part I: a Primer on Oleic Acid (OA)
A large body of evidence shows that daily consumption of EVOO confers numerous health benefits, including a significantly reduced risk of cardiovascular disease (CVD).
Factors that contribute to CVD include cholesterol, inflammation, blood vessel function, insulin resistance, and high blood pressure (hypertension). The protective effects of EVOO are attributed to its bioactive components, oleic acid (OA) and more than 30 polyphenols.
In this concise review, we’ll look closely at the mechanisms by which OA works in the body to modify and improve these factors.
What is OA? Oleic acid is a monounsaturated fatty acid (MUFA) that makes up approximately 70 to 80 percent of EVOO by volume. MUFAs and PUFAs (polyunsaturated fatty acids) are the key components of liquid fats, such as vegetable oils and the fats in fish.
Lowers “bad” cholesterol and blood lipid levels: OA lowers LDL or “bad” cholesterol by increasing the amount of LDL that is removed from the blood by the liver and reducing the amount that is produced. In scientific terms, OA increases hepatic LDL receptor activity. Similarly, OA helps lower triglyceride levels by stimulating the liver to increase the breakdown and removal of the proteins that produce triglycerides.
Helps regulate blood pressure: After eating, we experience what is termed the postprandial reflex—a rise in blood triglycerides and increase in blood pressure. When OA enters cell membranes, signals are sent from the intestines to the blood vessels to release vasodilators, which relax the blood vessels, and to block the release of vasoconstrictors, which tighten the blood vessels and raise blood pressure.
Protects the blood vessel lining: Damage to the blood vessel lining (the endothelium) is a major risk factor for CVD. By stimulating the release of vasodilators, OA helps protect the endothelium. OA also blocks signals from inflammatory proteins that are released with the postprandial reflex, reducing oxidative stress (which can lead to cell damage) and helping prevent atherosclerosis (buildup of cholesterol plaques in the arteries).
Increases insulin sensitivity: In a study of patients with obesity, OA was shown to up-regulate—increase the activity of—a gene that increases insulin sensitivity. OA also reduces insulin resistance in vascular smooth muscle cells, which make up the blood vessel walls.
Studies continue to reveal the ways in which OA exerts its multiple health-promoting effects. In 2018, the FDA determined that evidence supported a qualified health claim that the daily consumption of 20g daily of high-OA oil (EVOO or other high-oleic oil) may reduce the risk of coronary heart disease.
Stay tuned for part II, in which we’ll explore how the polyphenols in EVOO exert powerful protective effects against CVD.
References: 1. Lu Y, Zhao J, Xin Q, et al. Food Science and Human Wellness. 2024;13:529-540. 2. Pirahanchi Y, Sinawe H, Dimri M. Biochemistry, LDL Cholesterol (National Library of Medicine, 2023). 3. Zheng C, Khoo C, Furtado J, Ikekawi K, Sacks FM. Am J Clin Nutr. 2008;88(2):279-281. 4. US Food and Drug Administration. Constituent Update, November 19, 2018. https://www.fda.gov/food/cfsan-constituent-updates/fda-completes-review-qualified-health-claim-petition-oleic-acid-and-risk-coronary-heart-disease.
Kudos from Club Members
Who needs butter? Since I joined this club, I have not eaten butter in or on anything. I have toast every morning with a generous spreading of one of my oils. This makes sure that I get it every day just in case I may not need it in our meals that day!
Jeani R.Auburn, WA
Cholesterol Lowering Miracle! We ran out the end of May!!!! These awesome fresh EVOOs have worked miracles on my husband’s stubborn cholesterol numbers and are helping to keep my blood pressure down! Thank you! I ordered an extra gift set of the Chilean oils so we don’t run out anymore, on top of my membership shipment. We use them in so many different ways.
Rebecca A.Urbana, IL
The best olive oil ever! We joined the Club, got the first shipment this week, tonight a delicious salad with the amazing Alonso Olive Oil, it was the best olive oil ever! Makes each dish stand out.
Larry B.Fort Lauderdale, FL
Recipes
Apricot ChickenIt’s said that the Australian version of apricot chicken, whose simple ingredients were apricot nectar, a packet of dried French onion soup, and chicken parts, became popular in the 1970s; many adults Down Under grew up on it. My version takes more of a “from-scratch” approach for richer flavor. Ingredients 1/2 cup whole wheat flour… view recipe
Grilled Prawns and Spicy Papaya Cocktail SauceAustralia’s temperate climates host warm-water prawns (similar to shrimp) and tropical fruits such as papaya. This recipe brings them together and will inspire you to ditch the familiar ketchup-and-horseradish sauce often served in the US. Also good with lobster (called “bugs” in Oz) or scallops. Ingredients For the cocktail sauce: 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive… view recipe
Curried CauliflowerThis is one of the easiest side dishes in my repertoire. Because curry powder is a blend of nearly a dozen spices or more (some of which are fairly exotic), feel free to use your favorite pre-packaged curry powder. Ingredients 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 tablespoon curry powder 1 teaspoon coarse salt (kosher or sea)… view recipe
TiramisùThough tiramisù originated in Italy in the late 1960s, it didn’t take long for it to gain a legion of fans in Oz, especially in Sydney, where it’s said to have first appeared on menus in the ’70s. Because of concern about eating raw eggs, this version leaves them out, but it is no less… view recipe
LamingtonsThis sweet morsel—a vanilla cake dipped in chocolate icing and rolled in coconut—is a beloved celebratory treat in Australia. There are many variations, including spreading a jam filling between two layers of cake, but this version is the easiest to make. The olive oil-based cake is light and airy, a wonderful counterpoint to the luscious… view recipe
Chicken and Leek PieThe Australian take on American-style potpie gets wonderful flavor from the leeks and onions. Feel free to add 1/2 cup each peas and diced carrots if you wish. Ingredients 1/2 cup whole wheat flour, plus more for rolling the dough 1 teaspoon sea salt, plus more for the vegetables 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper… view recipe
Pan-Seared Fish Steaks with Carmelized FennelEasy enough for a weeknight dinner but elegant enough for guests, this meal, featuring what I like to call “steak fish,” comes together in less than half an hour. Use halibut, tuna, salmon, monkfish, cod, or swordfish. Ingredients Juice of 1 lemon, preferably a Meyer lemon Coarse salt (kosher or sea) 1 teaspoon dried oregano,… view recipe
Lamb Kebabs with Mixed VegetablesLamb is an Aussie favorite, and over 90 percent of Australian sheep are grassfed. Most recipes for lamb kebabs call for an overnight marinade. But we prefer a technique called “dry brining.” Meat is seasoned with salt, which mixes with the meat’s natural juices on the surface through osmosis and is then absorbed into the… view recipe
Prawn and Pork Fried RiceAsian cuisine abounds in Australia, and this dish is one of my favorites! Fried rice is a kitchen-sink kind of meal—a great way to use up veggies and any leftovers you have, so feel free to augment the ingredients with whatever you have on hand. Ingredients 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more as… view recipe
Crispy PotatoesThe only trick to this delicious side dish is to not crowd the potatoes—you’ll get better browning and crisping if you leave some space between the slices. Use two rimmed sheet pans if needed. Ingredients 2 pounds red potatoes, scrubbed and dried 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon coarse sea salt, more for… view recipe
Roasted Pear Salad Recipe, Spotlight on Pears and Halloumi, plus Another Reason to Avoid Ultra-Processed Foods
Do you love the crispness of autumn and one of the season’s most succulent fruits—pears? Then you’ll love the following recipe, which highlights pears along with one of my favorite cheeses, halloumi. Eating whole foods enhanced with natural ingredients like extra virgin olive oil is a tasty way to get healthy nutrients at every meal. And my dish shows how easy it is to enjoy delicious flavors in just a few steps. Processed foods, on the other hand, might offer greater convenience, but they often come at a cost. I’m sharing the details of a very important report from a group of noted scientists about questionable ingredients in packaged foods that fly under the oversight of the FDA. Though many should probably be considered and called out as additives, an FDA rule allows them to be termed “generally recognized as safe,” or GRAS, and added to products without scrutiny. It’s another serious situation of buyer beware. I hope you’ll read the summary in its entirety.
As with pears, roasting red onions brings out their sweetness. Rather than just drizzling them with olive oil and maple syrup, this recipe melds those two ingredients first—it’s my take on the “instant caramel” craze that swept the internet over the summer. Its richness is balanced by the slight saltiness of the halloumi and the bitterness of the greens.
Ingredients
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 large ripe firm baking pears, like Anjou, Bosc, or Starkrimson
1 small red onion
8 ounces halloumi
4 cups fresh greens
16 walnut halves
Directions
Step 1
In a large bowl, vigorously whisk 3 tablespoons olive oil and the maple syrup until they meld and the sauce becomes a rich caramel color, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the salt and set aside.
Step 2
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Cut the pears into halves and use a small spoon or melon baller to scoop out the seeds. Cut each pear half in two. Peel the onion and cut into 8 wedges. Add the pears and onions to the sauce and toss gently to coat. Transfer to a rimmed sheet pan and roast for 30 minutes or until caramelized, flipping over the pears and onions halfway through the roasting.
Step 3
Toward the end of the roasting time, sauté the halloumi. Cut the cheese into 8 sections. Heat a frying pan large enough to hold them. When hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the halloumi pieces. Cook until browned, up to 5 minutes, then flip and repeat.
Step 4
Divide the greens among four plates or bowls. Top with equal amounts of pears, onions, halloumi, and walnuts, then drizzle with the roasting pan juices and a splash of olive oil.
Yields 4 servings
Healthy Ingredient Spotlight
Halloumi
Members of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club know I’m a huge fan of halloumi (yes, there’s even a video of me grilling it on our Facebook page!). Halloumi not only tastes delicious, but also has the perfect texture for grilling—the mild and slightly briny cheese develops a wonderful smoky flavor while holding its shape.
This cheese, made from sheep’s (and sometimes goat’s) milk, hails from the island nation of Cyprus in the Mediterranean where it is made according to centuries-old tradition. Just as I always shop for true Parmigiano-Reggiano and not “parmesan” cheese, buy true halloumi by looking for the special Protected Designation of Origin or PDO mark that certifies it was made there.
Quick Kitchen Nugget
Choosing Pears
There are many sweet and succulent pears to enjoy throughout the fall. If you tend to reach for Bartletts as a default, it’s time to try varieties like Seckel, Comice, and Concorde pears. While any pear that’s ripe can be eaten raw, when you want to roast, poach, or bake pears for special dishes, do choose the firmer ones that won’t fall apart at hot temperatures—Anjou and Bosc.
If you’ll use them within a few days, keep pears at room temperature. Indeed, they may not be ripe enough to eat when you first get them home because, unlike many other fruits, they must be picked well before they ripen (or else their texture will turn grainy or mushy). If you want to slow the ripening process, keep them in the fridge until 2-3 days before you’ll eat them.
For Your Best Health
Another Reason to Avoid Ultra-Processed Foods
The article “Regulation of Added Substances in the Food Supply by the Food and Drug Administration Human Foods Program,” published in theAmerican Journal of Public Health, details how a legal loophole is allowing unsafe ingredients in US foods. Here is the summary of the findings provided by New York University, where the first author is an associate professor.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is tasked with overseeing the safety of the US food supply, setting requirements for nutrition labeling, working with companies on food recalls, and responding to outbreaks of foodborne illness. But when it comes to additives already in our food and the safety of certain ingredients, the FDA has taken a hands-off approach.
The current FDA process allows the food industry to regulate itself when it comes to thousands of added ingredients—by determining for itself which ingredients should be considered “generally recognized as safe,” or GRAS—with companies deciding on their own whether to disclose the ingredients’ use and the underlying safety data to the FDA. As a result, many new substances have been added to our food supply without any government oversight.
“Both the FDA and the public are unaware of how many of these ingredients—which are most commonly found in ultra-processed foods—are in our food supply,” said Jennifer Pomeranz, JD, MPH, associate professor of public health policy and management at New York University School of Global Public Health and the study’s first author.
Since 1958, the FDA has been responsible for evaluating the safety of new chemicals and substances added to foods before they go to market. However, food safety laws distinguish between “food additives” and “GRAS” ingredients. While compounds considered “food additives” must be reviewed and approved by the FDA before they are used in foods, ingredients considered GRAS are exempt from these regulations.
The GRAS designation was initially established for ingredients already found in foods—for instance, vinegar and spices. But under a rule used since 1997, the FDA has allowed the food industry to independently determine which substances fall into this category, including many new substances added to foods. Rather than disclose the new use of these ingredients and the accompanying safety data for FDA review, companies can do their own research to evaluate an ingredient’s safety before going to market, without any notification or sharing of the findings. The FDA suggests—but does not require—that companies voluntarily notify the agency about the use of such substances and their findings, but in practice, many such substances have been added without notification.
In their analysis, the researchers review the history of the FDA’s and industry’s approach around adding these new compounds to foods and identify the lack of any real oversight. This includes a federal court case in 2021 upholding the FDA’s hands-off approach. “Notably, the court did not find that the FDA’s practices on GRAS ingredients support the safety of our food supply,” said Pomeranz. “The court only ruled that the FDA’s practice was not unlawful.”
“As a result of the FDA’s policy, the food industry has been free to ‘self-GRAS’ new substances they wish to add to foods, without notifying FDA or the public,” said senior author Dariush Mozaffarian, MD, DrPH, director of the Food is Medicine Institute and distinguished professor at the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University. “There are now hundreds, if not thousands, of substances added to our foods for which the true safety data are unknown to independent scientists, the government, and the public.”
According to the researchers, the FDA also lacks a formal approach and adequate resources to review those food additives and GRAS substances already on the market. After an ingredient is added to foods, if research later suggests harms, the FDA can review the new data and, if needed, take action to reduce or remove it from foods. In a rare exception, the FDA announced in March that it would be reviewing 21 chemicals found in foods, including several food ingredients—a tiny fraction of the thousands of food additives and GRAS substances used today.
An example of the 21 food additives to be reviewed is potassium bromate, a chemical added to baked goods and drinks with evidence that it may cause cancer. Potassium bromate is banned in Europe, Canada, China, and Japan. California recently passed a law to ban its use, along with three other chemicals, and similar bills have been introduced in Illinois, New York, and Pennsylvania. “This is a stark example of the FDA’s regulatory gap,” said Pomeranz. “We’re seeing states starting to act to fill the regulatory void left by the FDA’s inaction over substances increasingly associated with harm.”
The FDA’s oversight of GRAS ingredients on the market is also limited. The agency rarely revokes GRAS designation (an FDA inventory only shows 15 substances that were considered GRAS and then later determined to not be), nor does the FDA review foods on an ongoing basis with GRAS ingredients that can be safe when added at low levels but not in large quantities—for instance, caffeine, salt, and sugar.
“In 1977, the FDA approved caffeine as a GRAS substance for use in sodas at a low level: 0.02%,” said Pomeranz. “But today, caffeine is added to energy drinks at levels far exceeding this, which is causing caffeine-related hospitalizations and even deaths. Given that the FDA regulates the use of GRAS substances, the agency could set limits on the amount of caffeine in energy drinks.”
“The sheer number of GRAS substances and food additives on the market, combined with the lack of knowledge about the existence of self-GRAS ingredients, insufficient resources, and documented time delays even for well-supported action, renders reliance on post-market authority flawed and unreliable to ensure a safe food supply,” said study coauthor Emily Broad Leib, JD, director of Harvard Law School Center for Health Law and Policy Innovation and founding director of the Harvard Law School Food Law and Policy Clinic. “FDA is only starting to utilize its post-market powers to review a tiny number of ingredients in the food supply, even though evidence of harm has been present for decades.”
The authors’ analysis provides the FDA and Congress with several potential actions to better assess and oversee the safety of both GRAS substances and food additives. This could include introducing a new requirement that companies must publicly notify the FDA of the use of GRAS ingredients, and share their underlying safety data, before they are put in foods; creating a robust review process to reevaluate the safety of GRAS ingredients and food additives once they are already on the market; and clarifying the distinction between GRAS ingredients and food additives.
In order to fund this stronger oversight of the food supply, the researchers suggest that Congress could allocate additional resources to the FDA or establish a user fee program in which food companies pay for the FDA to review the safety of their ingredients before they are added to foods. “Both the FDA and Congress can do more to enable the FDA to meet its mission of ensuring a safe food supply,” said Pomeranz. The National Institutes of Health supported the research.
As with pears, roasting red onions brings out their sweetness. Rather than just drizzling them with olive oil and maple syrup, this recipe melds those two ingredients first—it’s my take on the “instant caramel” craze that swept the internet over the summer. Its richness is balanced by the slight saltiness of the halloumi and the bitterness of the greens.
Ingredients
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, plus more for drizzling
3 tablespoons maple syrup
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 large ripe firm baking pears, like Anjou, Bosc, or Starkrimson
1 small red onion
8 ounces halloumi
4 cups fresh greens
16 walnut halves
Directions
Step 1
In a large bowl, vigorously whisk 3 tablespoons olive oil and the maple syrup until they meld and the sauce becomes a rich caramel color, about 3 minutes. Whisk in the salt and set aside.
Step 2
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Cut the pears into halves and use a small spoon or melon baller to scoop out the seeds. Cut each pear half in two. Peel the onion and cut into 8 wedges. Add the pears and onions to the sauce and toss gently to coat. Transfer to a rimmed sheet pan and roast for 30 minutes or until caramelized, flipping over the pears and onions halfway through the roasting.
Step 3
Toward the end of the roasting time, sauté the halloumi. Cut the cheese into 8 sections. Heat a frying pan large enough to hold them. When hot, add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the halloumi pieces. Cook until browned, up to 5 minutes, then flip and repeat.
Step 4
Divide the greens among four plates or bowls. Top with equal amounts of pears, onions, halloumi, and walnuts, then drizzle with the roasting pan juices and a splash of olive oil.
