Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club

The Olive Oil Hunter Newsletter #56

The Best BBQ Sauce and Red Wine Vinaigrette Recipes, Gastrique À L’Orange, Spotlight on Red Wine Vinegar

Ever since I introduced my fresh-pressed olive oils, I’ve been asked about the right vinegars to pair them with. I believe in having a full collection of vinegars, but red wine vinegar is a pantry essential—it’s amazingly versatile. And vinaigrettes are just the tip of the culinary iceberg when it comes to how many dishes red wine vinegar enhances. To show you what I mean, I’m sharing three very different recipes along with red wine vinegar’s intriguing history and why I went to Portugal to source it for my new collection of artisanal vinegars.

The Best BBQ Sauce

  • The Best BBQ Sauce The Best BBQ Sauce

    This sweet and tangy sauce is great on ribs as well as roast chicken—and it makes a terrific topping for your favorite style of burger!

    Ingredients

    • 3 cups ketchup
    • 2/3 cup dark brown sugar
    • 1/2 cup water
    • 1/3 cup red wine vinegar, such as Vinagre de Touriga Nacional
    • 6-ounce can tomato paste
    • 2 tablespoons powdered yellow mustard
    • 2 tablespoons ancho chili powder
    • 1 tablespoon freshly ground black pepper
    • 1 teaspoon coarse salt
    • 1 teaspoon onion powder
    • 1 teaspoon garlic powder
    • 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated, or 1/2 teaspoon powdered ginger

    Directions

    Step 1

    Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan and stir to mix.

    Step 2

    Bring to a boil, and then lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. 

    Yields about 4 cups

Red Wine Vinaigrette

  • Red Wine Vinaigrette Red Wine Vinaigrette

    Simple and superb! This sweet and tangy sauce is great on ribs as well as roast chicken—and it makes a terrific topping for your favorite style of burger!

    Ingredients

    • 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, such as Vinaigre de Banyuls
    • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
    • 1 teaspoon honey
    • 1/8 teaspoon coarse salt, plus more to taste
    • 1/2 small garlic clove, peeled and minced  
    • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
    • Freshly ground black pepper to taste

    Directions

    Step 1

    In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, honey, the 1/8 teaspoon of salt, and garlic.

    Step 2

    Gradually whisk in the olive oil until the dressing is emulsified. Season to taste with black pepper and more salt.

    Yields about 1/3 cup

Gastrique À L’Orange

  • French sweet-and-sour sauce Gastrique À l’Orange

    This quintessential French sweet-and-sour sauce is a wonderful way to dress duck and beef, especially when the meat is seared. The ingredients are simple: sugar, vinegar, and fruit juice or purée. Here is the classic gastrique recipe, but have fun experimenting with different combinations using this basic technique. 

    Ingredients

    • 1/2 cup white sugar
    • 1/2 cup red wine vinegar, such as Vinagre de Touriga Nacional
    • Juice of one orange

    Directions

    Step 1

    In a sauté pan over medium heat and without stirring, slowly heat the sugar until it caramelizes. Lower the heat and carefully whisk in the vinegar.

    Step 2

    Next, add the juice, whisking continuously (if the mixture hardens, the heat will melt it again). Continue cooking until the liquid reaches a syrupy consistency, but don’t let it get too thick or it will solidify—take it off the heat just before you think it’s done.

    Yields about a 1/4 cup, enough to sauce two portions of your chosen protein

Spotlight on Red Wine Vinegar

Spotlight on Red Wine Vinegar

The finest vinegar comes from the finest grapes

The history of red wine vinegar dates back to Roman times, but it was arguably the French who turned it into a culinary staple when, as legend has it, wine abandoned in the area of Orléans turned to vinegar on its own. The city became the de facto vinegar capital of France, and the Orléans method of barrel-aging was adopted around the world.

Of course, France doesn’t have a lock on making fine vinegar. I discovered the amazing Vinagre de Touriga Nacional offered in my Curated Culinary Collection of artisanal vinegars in Almendra, Portugal, at CARM, the Casa Agricola Roboredo Madeira (if you missed my email about the collection, just click on the link in the P.S. below!). Members of the Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club have come to know my dear friends Filipe Roboredo Madeira, his brother, António, and their father, Celso—now 88 and still going strong—and the story of how Celso made the delicious decision more than two decades ago to revive the centuries-old olive groves on their estate. This is also where the country’s oldest-noted wine region begins—the Demarcated Douro and Port Wine Region was recognized in 1756 and made a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2001—and the grapes grown here are legendary. The family’s vineyards are at an average altitude of about 1,000 feet with an eastward exposure. The confluence of geography and climate enables the production of grapes that create aromatic, fresh, and elegant wines.

To craft a vinegar worthy of his olive oil, Filipe decided to use only Touriga Nacional grapes, considered by many the finest of Portugal’s red wine grapes. Both red wine and red wine vinegar are made by fermenting red grapes, but vinegar requires an additional step, a second fermentation that turns the wine’s natural sugars into acetic acid. It’s a painstaking endeavor, with the typical aging process for red wine vinegar being two years. Of course, Filipe had other ideas—the vinegar that’s part of my collection of artisanal vinegars has been aged for 20 years!

Enjoying Red Wine Vinegar

Food Pairings

Enjoying Red Wine Vinegar

Many red wine vinegars are very concentrated, including my Vinagre de Touriga Nacional, so use it judiciously—add, taste, and then add more as desired. Use it in soups and stews, in beans with chorizo and rice, with fried fish, and in the cod dish bacalao; in wild green and vegetable salads and sautés; in antipasto salads and with grilled cheeses; and in herb-based sauces and marinades. It’s perfect for quick-pickling cucumbers and red onions and as a finishing touch for caramelized vegetables such as onions, potatoes, and beets, and for fatty fish such as salmon, tuna, and cod. 

Healthy Kitchen Nugget: Versatile vinegar

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

Versatile vinegar

Here are two of my favorite ways to cook with red wine vinegar:

Deglazing. Use vinegar instead of (or even in addition to) wine to deglaze a pan and turn the fond—those dark, flavorful bits that collect on the bottom of your pan—into a rich and quick sauce.

Marinating. Because vinegar is acidic, it helps break down and tenderize protein fibers for juicier grilled meat.

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Shrimp with Pimentón and Garlic

This classic Spanish tapas offering is great for a delicious dinner that’s ready in about 5 minutes!

Ingredients

  • 4 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 teaspoon pimentón
  • 1 pound large or extra-large shrimp, shelled and deveined 
  • Juice of 1/2 lemon

Directions

Mince the garlic and set it aside for 10 minutes to allow its healthful compound allicin to develop. Heat a large skillet, add the oil, and sauté the garlic until soft. Stir in the pimentón and then add the shrimp in one layer (if they don’t all fit, cook them in two batches). Cook for 1 minute and then flip the shrimp and cook for another minute until opaque. Squeeze the juice of the lemon over the shrimp and serve.

Yields 4 appetizer or 2 main dish servings.

Spicy Roasted Almonds

Add some spice to the healthful nuts you’re snacking on. Roasted almonds also make a great addition to a charcuterie or cheese board. Feel free to substitute other nuts such as hazelnuts, cashews, walnut halves, or pistachios for the almonds. If you own a smoker, try smoke-roasting the nuts the next time you fire it up. 

Ingredients

  • 2 cups whole skinless almonds (about 7 ounces)
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Coarsely ground sea salt to taste
  • 1-1/4 teaspoons Spanish smoked paprika (pimentón de la Vera) or ground cumin 

Directions

Step 1

Preheat your oven to 325°F. Put the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with the olive oil. Stir with a wooden spoon until they are evenly coated, then spread them out in a single layer. Roast the almonds until they are a light golden brown, about 20 to 30 minutes, stirring every five minutes. Drain on paper towels.

Step 2

Transfer the almonds to a bowl, season with salt and paprika, and toss to coat. Serve warm or at room temperature. Store in an airtight container for up to 3 days. 

Yields 6-8 servings


Sweet & Savory Lamb Boreks

These cigar-shaped filled pastries are a Turkish specialty, traditionally made with sheets of a thin dough called yufka. I find that phyllo, which is very similar to yufka, makes the perfect wrapper—it crisps up nicely and really lets the lamb filling be the star. For appetizer portions, cut the boreks into bite-sized pieces just before serving. ​

Ingredients

  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for the phyllo
  • 2 cups diced yellow onion
  • 1 1/4 pounds ground lamb
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon black Urfa chili or red pepper flakes
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 1 teaspoon cinnamon, preferably Vietnamese
  • 2 teaspoons black lime
  • 1 tablespoon honey
  • 1/2 cup raisins, sultanas if possible, roughly chopped
  • 1/2 cup unsalted pistachios, roughly chopped
  • Coarse sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 cups plain Greek yogurt
  • 3 eggs
  • 4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
  • 16-18 phyllo dough sheets, defrosted if bought frozen
  • 3 tablespoons poppy seeds

Directions

Step 1

Heat the 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a large skillet. Sauté the onions until soft and golden. Add the ground lamb and cook, stirring constantly. Just before the lamb is fully cooked through, fold in the Urfa chili, oregano, cinnamon, black lime, honey, raisins, and pistachios. When the lamb is done, remove from heat and taste. Season with salt and pepper as desired. Set aside to cool to room temperature. If there’s any liquid in the pan with the lamb, use a slotted spoon to transfer the mixture to a large bowl—liquid can cause the phyllo to tear.

Step 2

Preheat your oven to 350°F. Line a large rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a Silpat mat. Place the yogurt in a medium bowl. In a small bowl, beat two of the eggs with a whisk or fork and then fold into the yogurt along with the parsley. Beat the remaining egg in a separate bowl and set aside next to the poppy seeds.

Step 3

Set out a large piece of parchment paper on a countertop and place a sheet of phyllo dough on top of it. Lightly brush the phyllo with olive oil (you may need to dab rather than brush if the phyllo tears easily—don’t worry about small tears because they’ll be rolled up). Quickly place a second sheet of phyllo directly on top of the first and brush with more oil. Fold the double sheet in half and spread with a thin layer of the yogurt mixture, leaving a 1-inch border on all sides. Spoon a scant half-cup of the lamb mixture in a line along one of the short sides, about 2 inches in from the short edge and from both long sides. Turn in the longer sides about 2 inches so that they cover the outer edges of the lamb mixture, and brush the exposed phyllo with more oil. Fold the short edge of phyllo over the lamb and then roll it up into a cigar-like shape, brushing the phyllo with oil as you go. Place the borek on your baking sheet and cover with a kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining phyllo sheets and lamb, placing them at least 2 inches apart.

Step 4

Once you’ve made all the boreks, brush them with the beaten egg and sprinkle with the poppy seeds. Bake for about 35 minutes or until the phyllo is browned and crispy.

Yields 4 main-dish or 8 appetizer servings.