Fresh-Pressed Olive Oil Club

Chocolate Cheesecake in the Basque Style

Basque cheesecake is the ultimate in creaminess. Unlike traditional cheesecake that has a crust and is baked at a low temperature, this style is crustless (perfect if you’re gluten-free) and cooks at a higher temp. Adding two kinds of chocolate to the traditional ingredients makes it a chocolate lover’s dream. The parchment paper used to line the springform pan creates Basque cheesecake’s signature look when peeled away and makes for a great presentation at holiday celebrations.

Ingredients

  • 1/3 cup unprocessed cocoa
  • 1/3 cup cornstarch
  • 1/2 teaspoon instant espresso
  • 2 cups heavy cream at room temperature, divided use
  • 6 ounces dark chocolate (between 64% and 72% cacao)
  • 2 pounds best-quality cream cheese at room temperature
  • 1-1/3 cup sugar
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla
  • 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
  • 6 large eggs at room temperature
  • 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Directions

Step 1

Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a 10-inch by 3-inch springform pan with a large piece of parchment paper, pleating it as needed to flatten it against the sides—don’t worry about making the pleats uniform. Add a second piece of parchment if needed for full coverage, placing it diagonally opposite the first one.

Step 2

Sift the cocoa and cornstarch into a small bowl to remove any lumps; set aside. 

Step 3

In a small cup, mix the instant espresso into 1 tablespoon of the heavy cream; set aside.

Step 4

Coarsely chop the chocolate and place 5 ounces in a microwave-safe bowl. Microwave at 50% power for 2 minutes, stir, and repeat until the chocolate is almost fully melted. Out of the microwave, add the remaining ounce of chocolate to the bowl, let sit for 2 minutes, and then stir until smooth; set aside. 

Step 5

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the flat beater or in a very large bowl using a hand mixer, beat the cream cheese at medium-high speed for about 2 minutes, until smooth and creamy, stopping every minute or so to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Beat in the sugar, vanilla, instant espresso and cream mixture, and salt. Lower the speed and add the eggs, one at a time, followed by the cornstarch/cocoa, the melted chocolate, the rest of the heavy cream, and the olive oil. Make sure to scrape the bottom of the work bowl with a flexible spatula to incorporate any lumps. 

Step 6

Pour the batter into the pan and bake for about an hour, until the top turns deep brown (the center will still jiggle a bit). Place on a wire rack to cool completely before transferring to the fridge to chill from 4 hours to overnight.

Step 7

When ready to serve, release the sides of the pan and gently peel the parchment away from the sides. You can slice it from the parchment right from the pan bottom or use a cake lifter to transfer the cake to a platter. 

Yields 10 servings

Tiella Barese

Tiella, named for the ceramic cookware this dish is traditionally baked in, consists of layers of potatoes, mussels, and rice. This version was inspired by the way it’s made in Bari, the vibrant city on the Adriatic Sea. Tiella is said to have originated during Spanish rule in the 16th century, which explains why it’s more paella than risotto. Because of the saltiness of the mussel broth and the cheese, I haven’t added any extra salt. Note: Ask your fishmonger for wild mature mussels, which are meaty and juicy.

Ingredients

  • 4 garlic cloves
  • 1 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, most stems removed
  • 1 1/2 pounds Yukon or large red potatoes, unpeeled
  • 1 large onion, about 12 ounces
  • 1 pound cherry tomatoes
  • 2 1/2 pounds fresh mussels
  • 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided use, more for drizzling
  • 8 ounces Carnaroli or Arborio rice, about 1 1/4 cups, uncooked
  • 6 ounces Pecorino Romano, freshly grated
  • 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Step 1

Finely mince the parsley and garlic by hand or in a small food processor; set aside.

Step 2

Using a mandoline, the slicing side of a box grater, or your food processor’s 4mm slicing blade, slice the potatoes into 1/8-inch slices. Repeat with the onion. Halve the cherry tomatoes (if they’re large, quarter them).

Step 3

Pick over the mussels and throw out any that don’t stay closed or have a broken shell. Rinse the rest under cold water and pull off any beards. Heat a large frying pan or stockpot over medium-high heat. When hot, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and the mussels in one layer (work in batches if needed). Cover (a see-through lid is best) and cook until the mussels start to open, between 3 and 5 minutes. Use tongs to transfer them one at a time to a large bowl, leaving as much of their liquid as possible in the pan. Throw out any mussels that don’t open.

Step 4

Leave the mussels on the shell half they’re still attached to and remove and throw out the other halves, placing the mussels into another bowl or a platter as you work. Drizzle the mussels with 2 tablespoons olive oil and cover with a plate or clean dishtowel so they’ll stay moist.

Step 5

Place the liquid from the pan into a 4-cup measuring cup. If it looks sandy, drain it into the cup through a strainer lined with cheesecloth. Add in any liquid that collected when you were separating the mussels; set aside.

Step 6

Preheat the oven to 425°F. Drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil into a round baking dish 3 inches deep and 12 inches in diameter, or a 13×9 rectangular baking dish. Start layering the ingredients: Place
a layer of potatoes on the bottom of the baking dish, then top with half the onions. Scatter on half of the cherry tomatoes and half the garlic-parsley mix, a third of the grated cheese, and half the black pepper. Carefully nestle in the mussels on their half shells, meat facing up. If any liquid collected while the mussels were resting, add it to contents of the measuring cup; then add enough water to make
3 full cups.

Step 7

Top the mussels with an even layer of rice. Scatter on the remaining cherry tomatoes, onions, garlic-parsley mix, and black pepper. Make a top “crust” with the rest of the potatoes, placing them in an overlapping pattern to seal in the other ingredients. Carefully pour the mussel liquid down one side
of the dish or in one corner if your baking dish
is a rectangle. You may not need all the liquid: It should just barely reach—not cover—the top layer of potatoes (if you don’t have enough liquid, add more water). Sprinkle on the remaining cheese and drizzle on the final 2 tablespoons olive oil.

Step 8

Cover with a tight-fitting lid or foil and bake for 50 to 60 minutes. Remove the cover or foil and taste a few grains of rice. If not yet al dente, return to the oven for 15 minutes more, then test again. When the rice is just about cooked, take off the lid or foil and return the dish to the oven for another 15 minutes or until the rice is fully tender, the liquid has evaporated, and the top layer of potatoes is golden and crispy. If you’d like it more golden, place under the broiler for 3 to 5 minutes, watching carefully.

Step 9

Out of the oven, let the tiella rest for at least 30 minutes for the flavors to meld. Use an oversized spatula to dish out servings. While you can eat it with a fork, feel free to pick up the mussel shells and lap up their contents.

Serves 8

Chicken Scarpariello

This one-pot meal is hearty, tangy, and perfect for a Sunday night supper with family or friends. The name is Italian for “shoemaker’s chicken.” Some versions contain potatoes, but I prefer to leave them out or substitute mushrooms. If you are unable to find pickled cherry peppers at your local market, feel free to substitute pickled banana peppers. It’s the piquancy that matters.

Ingredients

  • 6 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
  • Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
  • 4 Italian sausages, sweet or hot
  • 1 onion, halved and thinly sliced
  • 1 red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
  • 1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
  • 8 ounces mushrooms, cleaned and sliced (optional)
  • 4 garlic cloves, minced
  • 6 red and green sweet or hot pickled cherry peppers, sliced
  • 1/4 cup pickled cherry pepper brine
  • 4 leaves fresh sage, minced
  • 1 1/2 cups homemade or low-sodium store-bought chicken broth

Directions

Step 1

Preheat your oven to 350°F.

Step 2

Trim any excess fat from the chicken thighs, then season generously with salt and pepper. Heat a large, deep frying pan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When hot, add the olive oil, then arrange the chicken thighs in the pan, skin side down, and sauté without moving until deeply browned, about 8 minutes. Turn over and brown the other side, 4 to 6 minutes. Remove from the pan and transfer to a plate. Add the sausages to the pan and sauté, turning frequently, until browned, about 4 minutes. Transfer the sausages to a cutting board and let cool. Slice each link into rounds.

Step 3

Reduce the heat under the pan to medium. Add the onions, bell peppers, mushrooms, and garlic and sauté until the vegetables soften, adding more olive oil if needed. Add the pickled cherry peppers, cherry pepper brine, and sage. Deglaze the pan with the broth, scraping up any brown bits from the bottom of the pan.

Step 4

Return the chicken thighs and sausages to the pan. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 30 to 35 minutes or until the chicken reaches 165°F on an instant-read thermometer. Serve immediately.

Serves 6

Crown Roast of Lamb

This is an elegant yet easy dish that will wow your guests. A crown roast is simply two racks of lamb, 7 or 8 chops each, tied together at the ends to form a circle. You can do it yourself with butcher’s string or ask your butcher to assemble it for you. The meat is traditionally prepped in the French style, meaning the thin ends of the lamb bones are neatly trimmed of meat, fat, and membranes. When served as an appetizer, this creates a handle for what’s often called lollipop chops. As a main dish, it makes a dramatic presentation when ringed with the Creamy Mushroom Ragoût opposite. If presenting the roast whole, you can also fill the cavity with roasted potatoes that were cooked separately.

Ingredients

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
  • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
  • 2 tablespoons very finely minced garlic
  • 1 tablespoon rosemary needles, fresh or dried 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper One crown roast of lamb, preferably grass-fed, French-trimmed

Directions

Step 1

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper. Place the crown roast, meat side down, in a pie plate or bowl wide enough to hold it. Drizzle the marinade over the meaty part of the chops and let sit for 30 minutes.

Step 2

Preheat the heat to 425°F. Place a flat rack inside a large roasting pan and transfer the roast to the rack (still meat side down). Roast the lamb until an instant read thermometer registers between 130° and 134°F for medium rare, about 30 minutes (test after 25). Out of the oven, let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing.

Serves 4 to 6