This Quarter’s Selection
- Producer: Alonso, La Estrella, Chile
- Olive Varieties: Coratina, Frantoio, Leccino
- Flavor Profile: Bold
I always look forward to spending time with Juanjo Alonso, who oversees the family’s extraordinary olive farm, Agrícola Pobeña. He has the most engaging personality and an expansive love of life, family, and, of course, ultra-premium extra virgin olive oil. With four older brothers occupied by the family’s other businesses, Juanjo was tapped by his father, Abel, to help him start the farm. Juanjo was just a few years out of college in California and had recently returned to Chile to be with his family. He undertook the project because he understood how making olive oil connected Abel to his past.
Born and raised in Spain’s Basque country, at 17, Abel made his way to Chile, where he and his mother reconnected with Abel’s father, who had been imprisoned for years by the regime of Spanish dictator Francisco Franco before escaping and ultimately resettling in Chile. Young Abel found work in a shoe store and within months was managing the shop. The owners entrusted him to set up a factory in Buenos Aires, where he lived for three years. Back home in Chile, he struck out on his own, creating a thriving shoe business that, over the years, provided work for 600 families.
Through it all, Abel held fast to his love of his native country—later in life, he spent half of each year in Spain. As he neared retirement, he set out to realize his longtime dream of establishing an olive grove and mill that produced world-class olive oil, the elixir so deeply intertwined with Spanish culture. His son Juanjo was determined to make that happen. That’s not to say things always went smoothly.
“My father was a tough, old-school guy. I’m pretty laid back, so being his son wasn’t always easy. There was tension between us at times,” Juanjo reflects, in a rare quiet moment. It’s been a year and a half since Abel’s death, just a few months shy of his 89th birthday. “It’s amazing what happened to me since then. When I’m here, I feel him asking me to be more like him. It’s like he’s giving me the energy and the voice I need.”
I’m thrilled that Juanjo’s 19-year-old son Fermin has been working in the mill during this harvest. A top-ranked freeride snowboarder, Fermin flirted with the opportunity of training for the 2030 Winter Olympics, where the sport is likely to debut. But the grueling schedule would have taken him away from his family and his love of surfing, which he shares with his dad, so he turned it down. I’m looking forward to working with the next Alonso generation one day.
We pay homage to Abel with this very special bold olive oil. He would have been ecstatic about this magnificent farm blend I’ve created for you. It’s centered around Coratina—a cultivar so exceptional the Pobeña team calls it “The Queen”—from three different areas on the farm. The supporting players are Frantoio and Leccino, which are typically planted in side-by-side rows in the field. I love that this oil is the embodiment of three classic Italian varietals, Coratina from Puglia and Frantoio and Leccino from Tuscany. I know you’ll agree we’ve captured magic in a bottle.
Impressions and Recommended Food Pairings
This robust Italian-style blend resonates with Southern Hemisphere energy. Its aromas reveal green and sweet almond, green apple, and dark leafy greens like arugula, with notes of artichoke, thyme, sage, and black pepper, rounded by citrus zest and warm hints of cinnamon and vanilla. On the palate are the nuttiness of hazelnuts; mint and oregano; the vegetal character of escarole and celery; and abundant polyphenols, as represented by the astringency of green tea, bitterness of cocoa nibs, spiciness of green chile, and the tingling sensation of Sichuan peppercorns.
Its bold personality is perfect for lamb-stuffed eggplant, chacarero Chileno and other beef dishes, duck, wild game, tuna and swordfish; deconstructed palta reina and salads with dark leafy greens; bold vinaigrettes; crudités; tomato-based recipes; hearty pasta dishes; cured meats; aged cheeses; crusty breads; wild rice and legumes; and chocolate desserts.