The Olive Oil Hunter News #100

Spotlight on Balsamic Vinegar

How to read between the lines on labels

The condimento aceto balsamico in my inaugural vinegar collection was a tremendous hit, but I knew I wanted to push the envelope even further in terms of flavor, so I worked hand in hand with the experts at Acetomodena in Modena, Italy. One of the most important points I want to share with you is the difference between select types of balsamic.

The pinnacle of balsamic vinegar is Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale DOP (denominazione di origine protetta or protected origin denomination), which can take generations to make and is wildly expensive. That’s because it’s crafted exclusively from cooked grape must—all parts of the grapes are used—and aged for a minimum of 12 years and sometimes 25 years or even longer. A few ounces cost well over a hundred dollars, so it’s not used for cooking or making vinaigrettes but for drizzling sparingly on foods as a finishing touch.

The next category is Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP (indicazione geografica protetta or protected geographical indication). It must be made from grape must and wine vinegar and aged in wooden barrels for at least two months. That sounds straightforward, but there are huge variations in its production. Acetomodena’s IGP is made artisanally, aged in barrels with a maximum volume of 300 liters (about 80 gallons) for as long as three years, which allows it to get sweeter and more harmonious as it achieves the perfect ratio of density to acidity. Mass producers tend to use only the minimum amount of grape must and giant 40,000- to 50,000-liter barrels (10,000-plus gallons) for aging, resulting in a product that lacks the quality and taste of a finely crafted vinegar.

I’m so excited about my new selection, a special reserve condiment reminiscent of a fine DOP that’s both affordable and approachable called Barili Exclusivi Condimento all“Aceto Balsamico di Modena IGP.” The “condiment” designation allows producers more freedom to craft a vinegar that goes beyond strict IGP requirements (there are two important consortiums in Modena to make sure certain rules are adhered to for every type of vinegar). Tasting the different balsamic vinegars in Acetomodena’s two cellars, one reserved for DOP and the other for IGP, I was able to compare and contrast, to see how condimento is akin to the Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale, assimilating its characteristics in a shorter amount of time.

My Barili Exclusivi Condimento is the perfect balance of acidity, sweetness from grape must, and woodiness from the barrel aging. I liken it to when vintners create a cuvée, blending wines from various barrels to create a finished product that is greater than the sum of the parts. The ultimate quality of the balsamic depends on the skill of the producer, including knowing what wood to pick for what period of aging. Mine was aged in small cherry wood barrels that impart a sweetness and allow for more contact surface with the vinegar during the last two years of aging than would larger barrels.

Food Pairings

Enjoying Balsamic Vinegar

Because the finest balsamic is rich and sweet, just a few drops will enhance just about every food, from a risotto to a charcuterie plate to berries and ice cream. Pair it with your extra virgin olive oils to dress mature or fresh cheeses, from Parmigiano-Reggiano to fresh mozzarella. Drizzle it over cured meats like prosciutto, speck, and salami as well as cooked salumi, such as mortadella; tomatoes with a sprinkling of Maldon salt; composed salads with cheeses and fruits; cooked vegetables, fish, beef, lamb, and egg dishes; strawberries or pineapple “carpaccio” over vanilla ice cream; flourless chocolate cake and banana or zucchini quick breads; and on French toast along with butter and berries. It can withstand some heat, but use it judiciously in cooking—add it at the very end of a recipe such as a risotto, then top each serving with a few more drops.

Healthy Kitchen Nugget

The best-dressed salad

To maximize taste when making salads, prep your greens by rinsing and drying them in a salad spinner—dressing coats them better when they’re dry, and it won’t be diluted by water clinging to the leaves. Rather than simply pouring vinaigrette over your salad, mix it in with two forks or tongs. Also, keep in mind that vinaigrettes aren’t just for salads; drizzle them over roasted vegetables and cold meats and use them in place of mayonnaise as a sandwich spread. Vinaigrette will keep for up to a week in the fridge—just shake well or whisk as needed before using it.